GeneralDisorder

Intake manifold gaskets. Get the from the dealer, or Fel-Pro only. I've had very bad luck with aftermarket manifold gakets. Use gaskachinch on them - basically it's contact cement. GD

While they share the same bolt pattern, a lot of the earlier wheels will not fit the EA82 series cars due to clearance with the brake calipers. This does not apply to all wheels, but most significatly it applies to all the "wagon" style wheels. The EA81 wagon wheels will not clear the caliper on the EA82's unless you grind on the caliper itself. The EA81 steels, and I think some of the alloys will fit the EA82's. This same problem exists with the Gen 1 wheels as well - the Gen 1 wheels and also the "jackman" spoked wheels will not quite fit an EA81 car either. Again - some have "made" them fit by doing some grinding. So the answer depends on what wheels the Brat has on it that you want to fit on your Loyale.... GD

Yeah - that sure sounds like a winning plan. If your problem is only at idle, then it sounds like the idle jet wants changed...... change the o-ring on the jet holder for the idle jet as well just for good measure. I would get a jet "kit" with several sizes in it, so you can play around with all of them. 27.7 is not bad at all for a 3.9 car. I routinely get 28 or maybe a bit more in my Brat with the Hitachi, and everything I've read on the Weber's sugests they should get slightly better mileage than a Hitachi, so you should probably check all your jets just to be sure. With the delta cam like you have, the engine may want for different jets. Also note that best performance doesn't also mean best mileage. The difficulty in tuning a carb is that the engine doesn't draw in the air and fuel at the same rate over the entire RPM band. The carb *could* be tuned to give maximum performance at a specific RPM reading, but that may shoot you mileage in the foot at some other reading. So a balance must be struck. GD

It's not vacuum line - it's coolant line, and it tees into the water pump line under the alternator. I do not think the part is escencial - just plumb around it. GD

Stock from Redline for the Subaru is: Primary Main: 140 Secondary Main: 140 Primary Air: 170 Secondary Air: 160 Primary Idle: 50 Secondary Idle: 55 This gave me 32 MPG freeway on my 2WD wagon, same jetting on the same engine gives me about 18 MPG with it lifted and 4WD. I think for a stock engine, this jetting is fine, maybe a bit large. But it still gets better mileage than a similarly eqquiped Hitachi (non-feedback). I drove to Medford with a friend in a lifted hatch - he had less weight, and smaller tires (27's - mine are 28's), and he got about 17 MPG with the Hitachi. GD

That's the bit that the coolant runs through to get to the carb base. Gonna have to re-plumb around it in order to run the engine, or coolant will squirt out the manifold under the carb. I'm not entirely sure what the little gizmo you broke does, but I think it may be a cut-off valve for removing the carb or manifold easier or something. I don't think it serves any esencial purpose - just yank it and plumb the hoses together. GD

Where do I look exactly? I have one on jacks in my driveway right now that I can check for you.... 88 GL-10 sedan... If you have an FSM it should have a diagram of the complete brake system - that's where I looked to see if there was any such thing on the EA81's..... GD

They work SOOO good - you'll love it. I just pulled four axles today, and I used only that tool, and a hammer (with the wheels spinning freely) for the nuts. GD

Depends - my brand new GCK brand axles from Autozone are using 36mm nuts, and while I do beleive that some rebuilders might put a different size nut on, I haven't experience that myself - either with any of the remaned units I've installed or any of the JY axles I've got. But yeah - certainly possible.... it may actually be a mistake on the part of the rebuilder - which wouldn't be the first time they have screwed up. Difference between 2WD and 4WD axles is the shaft diameter AND the joint size. Different spline count on the shaft end as well. Punch size can be either 3/16" or 7/32" (7/32" is a better fit, but either will work). The actual punch size is 6mm, but of course finding one is impossible. GD

At most you will just need a new axle and perhaps bearings for the front.... not terribly expensive even for new parts, but yeah - junk yard could be the way to go. GD

Wow - that is weird. You'll have to pull it apart and see. Maybe they ruined the threads on the axle, and had it turned down and threaded for a smaller nut? Leganus axles use a smaller nut too.... but they would be too long for an 88. Maybe it's parts of several axles that have been frankenstiened together.... GD

Having not purchased one or owned one myself, but off-roaded with many people who have and extoll their virtues loudly, I can say I have never heard anyone who had anything but good things to say about his products. And as such, he should be thanked for offereing a product to us (which is an almost impossibly small market) at all. We are lucky to have such a dedicated, and trustworthy individual who cares most about customer service, and making sure his customers get the best product possible. It's a rare thing to see in our corporate society, and I hope he will be still be around when the time comes for me to reccomend a kit supplier. It seems like every time I take my wagon out I get asked "Where can I get one of those?".... PK Davis will be my answer. GD

Right - I'm just saying that if we inspect the vac diagram in the 80 manual, it might give a clue what to do with that extra line you have there. And as I recall, the retard line only works durring cold running... GD

Yeah - I've wanted to try it, but I don't have a source for it unless Ed wants to do another group buy.... so till then I'm stuck with PB Blaster.... which at least works a heck of a lot better than WD40. Although better than "not at all" isn't saying much I guess. GD

Autozone has em for about $12 for Timken bearings.... you really ought to replace both if you are going to do it, and both of the seals as well - the seals run about $5 (also Timken IIRC). I think I would go for the sealed units if you have a nice way to install them as Sven sugested.... but the non-sealed are cheaper, and can be installed with a drift without removing the hub from the car. GD

First - does the smoke smell sweet like coolant? Or like burn oil? Is it an automatic? If so, there is a modulator valve on the tranny that can suck tranny fuild into the intake... Check the PCV system, and check for coolant loss... Check the oil for water contamination, and the coolant for oil floating in it... If none of those check out, run a compression check to be sure, and then go after the carb base gaskets, and the intake manifold gaskets - those can leak coolant directly into the intake. GD

Yes, the HG can be changed in the car, but on the OHC engines like yours, things are a bit different. The heads on the EA82's are more prone to cracking (in the exhaust port - between the valves is ok), so you should look for that, and of course check them with a metal straightedge for warpage. Good compression is 150 or more for each cylinder... but it's more important that they be within 10% of each other. 90 sounds a little low, but if they are all at 90, then it may just be the way you tested it. Changeing an engine is usually easier and cheaper than a HG, but it depends on what type of engine you are going changing to (Carb, SPFI, Turbo, MPFI), and what the car was eqquipped with originally. GD

Just a joke man.... never heard that expression I take it? GD

If the axle shaft got rusty, I could perhaps see that happening. Not common at all tho. At any rate, the bearing is toast now, as you are never supposed to exert any force on the inner race, and that's what happened when the axle pulled it from the knuckle... GD

One line is for advance, and the other is for retard. I have an '80 manual that has the diagram for that disty I think.... we'll talk. GD

Nice seat cover Junkie... GD

I've never been told anything like this by new car dealers, or read anything in the manual's about it either. I think were it a huge deal, it would be mentioned in the owners manual, and the clutch instructions as well. If the flywheel is turned true, I don't think it's much of a problem. I agree that it's possible for hot spots to occur, and the flywheel to be damaged, but I have never expereinced it myself, and never heard of it occuring oustide of downright abuse of the clutch.... but that will damage it anytime, not just durring break in. GD

Actually - that's not true - I know where there's a Justy that *had* an ECVT (it's even stickered on it), and it's been replaced with a 5 speed...... owned by an old couple who still drive it. It's 4WD too. Perhaps they changed the whole engine, but I wouldn't think so by the looks of the car. GD

We can't pump ours here in OR either. And frankly, I've never had a problem with any of the attendants. The jobs pay pretty decent, but are certainly the bottom of the food chain, I would agree. At least they have a job. Jobs without qualifications are important to a certain degree. There will always be people who need them either because they are bone stupid retards, or perhaps they are just in a transitional period, and can't find any other work. Lots of manufactureing jobs are moving overseas, and a lot of those people are going to have to move into customer service oriented positions instead. I certainly *could* pump my own gas, but I would just rather let someone else handle it - less messy, and from what I've seen, our gas isn't a whole lot higher than WA where people pump their own. GD

Not that I've heard of. It's like a brake pad only harder material, and if you have the flywheel turned, it will take a little bit to wear in, but there's no reccomended procedure for it I don't think. GD