GeneralDisorder

Awesome for the price man. That's a fine specimin, and a good platform to start with. Toss that topper tho - ugly. Bring it by and we can sort out that vac leak. I have a vacuum guage that should pin point that pretty easy. GD

Possible u-joint failure. Seen that on exploders before. Check them out. GD

That's weird sounding. No clue. Hehe GD

Intake mainfold, valve covers, and oil pan gaskets I always get from the dealer. Much better quality than anything you can get from aftermarket. Usually cheaper too. I know it's weird, but that's the way it seems to work out. GD

Drive it like you stole it. Should be fine. I've done it on occasion. GD

Well - the problem you have is a Justy is transverse, and the 2.2 is not. So unless you are prepared to drop in the 2.2 transmission, modify the entire frame and body to fit it, and then hooptie the suspension from the 2.2 and narrow it down to fit inside the width of the justy body you are stuck. Basically it's far too much work for anyone to really consider it.... guy over on the old-gen board was doing something along these lines building a custom rally racer, but I think he's been working on it for a couple years now and it still don't move. I'm not saying it's impossible, but the amount of work involved would be tremendous, and the frankenstien creation that it would become is scary to think about. Ok - so I saw the videos of the WRX Justy... that's insane. But hey - go for it. Get a welder and a plasma cutter to start with. And expect to drop some coin on custom axles and stuff. GD

I do get some strange looks from the salesmen driving by in the Brat. The parts guys (and one girl) enjoy it tho. One of them has an '82 4WD wagon still, and they have been there so long they actually know a lot of the common EA81/EA82 part numbers without looking them up. GD

Sounds like we have quite a few people around. We'll have to work on getting people lifted that aren't cause I'm (as some other here know) certifiably insane when it comes to mud, water, rocks, trees, and well anything I can get at really. My wagon has enough body damage to speak for itself now, and I haven't washed it in over a year - no point as the paint was thrashed long ago. It's a rare wheeling trip that I don't break, bend or otherwise damage something. Hope you all have 2nd vehicles for daily drivers, cause sometimes people don't go home under their own power GD

Something I've noticed about the EA82's... a vacuum leak will give a similar result at idle for whichever bank it's closer to. Try pulling the plug wires at 2k RPM and see if you hear a change. No change at idle could just be a forgotton vac line. Something I've run into before. And yes - compression check is the FIRST order of business after doing the above.... GD

The pumps do have different part numbers, but they both work on the engine side the same. Only difference is the fan I believe. Looks like you have to remove it anway, so try it and see. GD

No... REALLY! At least the parts department anyway. Man I love those guys. Very helpfull, and always treat us old school types like family. I just had to share: Intake Manifold Gaskets. 1stsubaruparts.com: $2.39 + $7.95 minimum shipping subaruparts.com: $2.53 + $1.99 shipping (and god forbid you need more than 1 - the shipping goes up to $8.95 immediately!!) *Note - these are small enough to send probably 4 or 5 with a standard stamped envelope no problem. Gee - I wonder where they make their money GD

Gonna need a welder to fix that mess. Reinforce the holes on the floorpan, and modify any seat that you like to fit. There are no direct bolt ins other than another EA81 vehicle. EA82 seats will fit without too much modification. The easiest seat swap I've done was with a set from an Isuzu Impulse. Three of the 4 bolt holes line up more or less. Just have to adapt for the fourth one with a bit of steel to make a bracket. The EA81 seat rails seem to be very weak (well - at least for me being 6' 2", and 200lbs). I've had to weld some reinforcing steel to them to prevent failures near the bolt down points. GD

Actually, there is no air pump. The Subaru Air Injection System is passive. It uses the force of the exhaust pulse to open a reed valve and suck in fresh oxygen... so blocking the valve body where it connects to the pipe that runs to the exhaust is all you have to do. A quarter in each valve (usually there is one for each head) will solve your issues most likely. Almost always does in my experience. You have to wonder why other manufacturers didn't figure this out... The air pump is such a complicated solution... not to mention uses HP to run it. Belts, pumps, lubrication, etc. Man what a waste huh? GD

When will you people get the message?!? There is NO relationship to a Suzuki, or Geo in the Justy. It is a 100% FHI design. The ONLY thing they have in common is they are both 3 cylinder engines. Jeez - the engines aren't even the same size, and the Suzuki/Geo don't, and never did have 4WD, or the ECVT... GD

Well - the extra bolts are a way to tell what heads you have (large intake or small intake), but doesn't tell about the lifters. 83/84 solid lifter engines have the large valve heads too. Mick - you are right, but the gasket sets come with the lock washers, so someone could have added them. Best way to tell is to remove the valve cover, and look at the pushrod itself. The solid lifter rod is aluminium with a steel tip on the end, while the hydro lifter is a solid steel rod with no special tip. You will see the that the last 1/2" of the rod has a bigger diameter tip if the engine is solid lifter. Perhaps someone changed the valve covers, but likely it's a solid lifter engine. Good to check tho as the adjustment procedure is indeed different. GD

Probably the case. I had a DL with a dual range for the same reason. Trans was swapped because 3rd lost the syncro (common on the 4 spd). If your Brat has t-tops then it's a GL. GD

I'm down. Wheeling I can do - scappoose has some good spots.... GD

Hadn't they switched to the 4EAT by the Loyale times? I had an 88 AWD Turbo Automatic with the AWD 4 speed AT.... So is it 4WD, or is it really AWD.... since it has the button I'm guessing 4WD, but maybe someone put a 4EAT in it? Lots of wireing for that tho so probably unlikely. GD

Cool - thanks for the info! GD

I've said all this before, but.... The horizontally opposed engine and rod shifted transaxle driving all 4 wheels combination was used succesfully by VW (Dr. Porsche) for the German army back in WWII. By the time Subaru and Audi started building vehicles for mass consumption in the 70's and 80's this stuff was in automotive design reference books for all to see. There are lots of good designs out there, and Subaru picked this one, but they clearly did NOT invent anything original. The low center of gravity, good ground clearance, and symetric / balanced layout were good reasons for picking it. Subaru took a basically sound engine design and improved it with water cooling (both for engine AND passenger comfort). Thus for proper cooling, the whole drive had to be turned around.... easy since you flip the differential to do that. AWD and 4WD is simply adding a differential between the front and rear - nothing special there, just application specific. A point more minor than water cooling the engine, and putting it in front of the passengers really. You have to step back and see the forest for the trees here. Same design - we all drive logical decendants of the VW Beetle. Just because you people don't like that doesn't make it not so. GD

Lets see, carb (could both be Hitachi, but will be different model usually, and could be different even if cars are otherwise the same (feedback/non). C/W only had a single model), distributor, coil, vacuum routing (different for 2WD, 2WD Auto, 4WD, and 4WD Auto).... those are the major ones. Starters are different sometimes for auto/manual. One is a different reduction. If you are talking Hitachi carbs, they are even different models on different years... get the number off the float body on the carb to get an exact match. In reality they are pretty much all interchangable, but what you DONT want is to accidentally get a feedback if you don't have it. Non feedback can be alright, but you'll have to plug off stuff, and disconnect things to make it work if you have the feedback gear and ECU. GD

My pleasure - glad it worked for ya. GD

Only time I've borked one was putting it back in after replaceing the gasket..... too tight. Oops! GD

Sounds like perhaps they are one in the same problem - maybe a bad drum cylinder on the rear brakes? Bad times - take a look to see if the same wheel that is locking up is covered in brake fluid? GD

Eliminate the AIS. Just block the valves with Quarters ($0.25), or cut the pipe and weld it up where it bolts to the heads. Don't need it anyway. GD