GeneralDisorder

All the centerforce listings are for 200mm clutch's.... no way I would use a 200 in anything - even a 2WD. 4WD's (including yours) are 225mm GD

What are the prices? I know you can get a whole clutch kit from NAPA for a little over $100.... rebuilt of course, but I've used them and they are fine. Centerforce is good, but as I recall, they are spendy..... am I mistaken? GD

Yeah - unfortunately, you are pretty much in the dark here. There aren't any other board members with one of these things..... they are SOOOO rare it's stupid. You'll likely have to just trace the wiring by hand with a multi-meter. GD

My personaly preference is something from the junk yard that has a lot of life left. $20 for the whole setup..... LUK makes good aftermarket stuff, and of course the dealership is always highly recommended as well in coversations of this nature. GD

Strange - do you have a lot of wieght in the car? Do a search on the board here for "honda springs" - several people have used them in the rear to raise the EA82's beyond stock height.... maybe it will help you out. GD

Depends - last one I sold on ebay I got $260 for.... I buy them around here for $45 at the yards (when I can find them of course) GD

Pretty noisy. Common problem. The Brat/Brumby fuel pump is located very close to the cabin. Other cars won't notice this as much. I replaced mine because I thought it was too noisy with one from a hatch.... didn't make much difference. It's still thumping away. Been like that for a while, and I doubt it will die. GD

Cool - I've got some C4.... ought to take care of that POS real quick. GD

It's your right to have it repaired if you want. There's plenty of wagons in the JY's to get a rear clip from.... GD

Sure - just use an '82 or later disty AND matching coil. Very important to have the coil and the disty match for resistance. GD

I guess I'm just always a little heavy handed with my axle nut torque or something. I've never had one loosen or strip or anything. Weird. And I go through a LOT of axles. GD

Some folks use vasoline. I personally like to use a NEW rubber gasket for the cap, and then some RTV on the bottom to stick it to the disty casing, and then vasoline on the top edge where the cap sits. GD

Wow - must be a rash of ill-fittin axles out there or somethin..... tell me, is it the hub splines that get tore up or the axle splines? Inquiring minds want to know..... GD

It happens, but yeah - pretty rare. Probably as you surmise, the nut was not properly torqued. Either that, or the cone washer is worn, or the spring washer improperly installed.... The problem might have been made worse by loose fitting splines. There will always be slight variations in close tollerance parts like that, and perhaps the manufacturer of the CV joint had the spline machine set too deep that day..... GD

WD40 works good for drying out distributors - it displaces water quite well, and will not interfere with the electronics. Sray inside the disty liberally - wipe off the excess. Might have some junk in the carb.... this is a Weber right? On the top of the carb there is a hole about 1/8" in diameter that runs into the idle circuit of the carb - it's right above where the idle jet screws into the side of the carb body. Take off the air filter to see it. Spray a jet of carb cleaner down that and see if it cleans it out. If that doesn't do it, spray some down into the emulsion tubes on the top of the carb (brass looking holes - behind the idle air hole...). Might have to take the top of the carb off and blow out the junk in the jets.... not that hard with a Weber. GD

Put it this way, I have rebuilt many a carb in my years as a mechanic, and the ONLY one's I've had to tear down more than once are the Subaru Hitachi's. They are complex, and have a lot of parts. It took 5 tries before I got my first Hitachi to run correctly to my satisfaction. Even still, I've done a couple more since then, and each time I've had to tweak them after installation (remove the top and blow out passages, etc). They are real sensitive to dirt. The rebuild kits are cheap, and it CAN be done, but have a plan for backup transportation, as they are not simple little carbs. GD

The difference isn't in the size, but where the pressure is applied to the rotating mass. Moving the pressure towards the outside of the flywheel will increase the leverage that the engine has on the transmission input shaft. The 4WD PP is also stronger to account for the increased torque that will be applied. Think of it like using a cheater bar on the end of your wrench.... same principle. I just drove a stock 82 Brat the other day, and I can tell you the difference is HUGE even with stock size tires. With large meats, the slippage is profound, and totally unacceptable. Take it from someone who has driven all 4 varieties..... the 200mm clutch has no business even existing. The 225mm works equally well with the 2WD trannys, so there is no reason to ever use the 200. GD

Must be an option - I looked, and the one in my driveway has one too. YAY! Another upgrade for my Brat. GD

Yeah - bring me some of that 10% stuff! I'll bring the flywheel to the show on Saturday.... you'll be there right? GD

Wear on the clutch is probably more dependant on how you drive, not really where you shift at. But I would imagine that shifting higher might wear it out a bit quicker - theoretically speaking, if you match RPM's for the gear you are going into, then there should be almost no wear on the clutch if the car is moving. The majority of clutch wear comes from take-offs from a dead stop, or slipping the clutch like for off-roading, etc. I shift that high to put me closer to the power band for the next gear - if you shift too early, you will be below the curve at the start of the next gear, and it will *feel* like you don't have any power. GD

No advantage.... big disadvantage actually, since the wheels will bind up on hard surfaces. If that is the case, then I would find the PO, and beat him profusely about the head and shoulders. Unless he wanted to run larger tires in the back to compensate! GD

You really should put this 4 speed Auto I have in there! Don't even have to ship it if you come get it..... GD

http://www.ramengines.com/ GD

Just think.... at what point would you be in a position to have spent the same amount of money building a 140 HP EA81 using the RAM performance dual port heads? Of course I know that the performance potential of the ER27 is much greater than 140 if you really want to build it up, but do you *need* more power than you have right now? I'm very curious as to your thoughts on this - honesty - do you beleive the ER27 "experiment" was worth the investment? It's a good engine, to be sure, but rare, and expensive to maintain. Perhaps an EJ22 next time? GD

Holy cow! I didn't even notice I passed 4K! Micro-brew.... hhhhmm - know any low carb ones? GD