GeneralDisorder

Factory roofs however, are pretty bulletproof. The one in my 84 doesn't leak a drop, and neither have any of the T-tops on Brat's I've encountered. GD

Yep - that's their tactic - they will try to starve you out. Get another CHEAP car quick so they can't. Then it's just a waiting game. GD

I heat that! Working on military rigs has given me a healthy respect for weight. One person cannot lift a wheel and tire into place by himself on a deuce - you need a wheel lift! The axle nuts are 3.5 and 4 INCH sockets. We have a torque wrench that's 5 feet long for those..... Batteries are a two man lift, The generators (not alternators even) are so heavy you need a couple guys to hold them in place while you get the bolts started. Dry weight on one of these "small" military trucks is over 20,000 lbs. GD

Interesting - all the GL models here got the delay wipers - DL's did not.... I think you need the control module for it as well. I don't think there's any difference with the motor, but I could be wrong. Switch is just a switch - I know it's not in there. There's probably an extra relay, and a delay module in there somewhere for it. You could probably come up with your own wireing if you figure out what the part is that does the delay function. GD

Just drill and tap the sleeve for some of those little black set screws, and grind a flat spot on the shaft for them. They have sharp ridges, and will dig into the shaft when you tighten them down with a hex key.... I saw em at Napa last time I was there.... GD

Yeah - all kinds of funny things will happen if the battery is low and the alternator isn't charging. The system will just cease to function properly without enough voltage to drive stuff. GD

That "black box" in not a relay. It's a Fuel Pump Control Unit. It's not wise to bypass it unless you know what you are doing. It's job is to make sure the fuel pump loses power in an accident. It's wired to an RPM sensor, and it also controls the power to your choke.... this is all assuming you have one, which I'm not totally sure about - you have an EA82, and they are different than EA81's by a good degree. However - I do think checking the voltage to the fuel pump is a good idea. NOTE, however that this can be misleading because when the engine dies (for whatever reason), the fuel pump power will be cut by the revolution sensor. When you test, you are looking for a condition where the pump will run while you are cranking, but not when the key is in the run position and the engine IS running. If the pump cuts out and the engine dies a minute or so later, you have found a potential problem. The pump will always stop when the engine stops tho. Fix vacuum leaks, check your fuel system (cap, filters, etc), and check to see that you have power to the fuel pump. You have a fuel delivery issue I would say, and a complete run-down of the system is in order. GD

When the insurance company low-balls you, tell them firmly you will take no less than (Insert desired value here). They will say "we cannot do that", and your reply will be "Well - I've been having a quite a bit of neck pain since the accident, and perhaps I should see a doctor before we talk further..." - if they still refuse, then tell them you are done negotiating, and that you will see them in court. Chances are they will not go to court, since it would cost them more than paying what you ask. If you threaten litigation on them, they are pretty much screwed because you will certainly win after you show similar vehicles, and doctor bills..... If you ask me, you are in a great situation. Find a roo out here on the west coast, and drive it home. We have plenty for cheap, and you stand to collect some serious coinage from this.... GD

EA81's have one or two electric fans (except turbo models).... EA82's have those water pump clutch jobbers. Check your electrical connections.... GD

It's easier to just put some 1" spacers on the engine cross-member. It's not a lift really.... well I guess it's a 1" lift of sorts. GD

I just use the regular size clamps - no problems here. EA81's will be tight for clearance on the rear outer joint, as it comes close to the shock mount. You can avoid that by useing an EA82 rear axle cup - it will move the clamp location inward away from the mount. The special 1/4" wide clamps can be found - VW used them from the factory on bug axles. Try the VW performance shops. But like I said - regular size ones work fine. Cheaper too. GD

You have to watch it with that Gregory's manual - I've been looking it over, and since it was published for the AUS market, it's got some real weird stuff in it. It's not to be trusted in all respects, but still a good reference for general procedures and the like. Not sure I would go to it for certain specifications tho. GD

Probably the place they would tap into the harness for "Dealer installed A/C" or "Dealer installed Cruise Control" or something similar. Basically, this provides the power circuits and the interface to the dash switches and stuff for these options which people commonly wanted installed seperately instead of paying for a more expensive trim package that already came with it. GD

McBrat has done that, and yes, it will lift the front. But just like adjusting your springs higher on your current struts, it will mess up your camber.... to counteract it, you need additional lift spacers on the front engine cross-member. GD

DOH! Me stupid. Turbo's didn't come with 4 speed's.... Anyway, what you describe is either severe fuel starvation (those filters), or *wince* a blown Head Gasket..... I only say that due to your note about it not having any coolant, and only wanting to go 30 MPH. That's about what would happen if you were running on 2 cylinders because of a blown head gasket on one side. It would also nicely explain the lack of coolant. Fill it will coolant, and crank the engine over with the radiator cap OFF. If coolant shoots out of the opening, you have a bad head gasket on one side. If it were bad on both, it wouldn't run at all, so at the most you are looking at a single head gasket failure. Likely if it was overheated to the point of taking the head gasket out, then your heads are also warped. If this is the case, replace BOTH head gaskets (the other is questionable if one failed), and check the heads for warpage - have them machined if they are out of spec GD

Stainless steel hose clamps - Home Depot - $4 per axle, and you can reuse them forever. The cold hard truth is that often times remanufactured axles.... well.... aren't. Just because it's written, doesn't make it so.... etc. GD

Certainly - I would be happy to accomidate you if I can. Although Gen 1 parts are mighty scarce even here. I do have a 78 2WD wagon that I'll be disposing of in the next 6 months. I'm not sure if the axles are the same or not.... if they are, I could pull them for you. It can still roll enough to get it on the scrap mans trailer without them, so I should be able to give em up. GD

Sorry to say that it may not be that simple. First you have to figure out what the problem is. I wish I could help more, but I'm afraid it's going to be a matter of many long hours of pokeing at it with a multi-meter to find your real culprit. I have an 82 FSM on the way from the bay of E, but it might be a week or so before I get it. If you are still having trouble, I'll scan the wireing diagrams for you when I get it. In the mean-time, clean EVERY ground connection you can lay your hands on. They get nasty from age, and there's a LOT of them. Sand paper works well, as does a wire brush. Also if your battery terminals look crappy and corroded, you might replace them. Get the generic type, and cut the old ones off. Make sure to strip the wires back to where they are clean, and use some di-electric grease when you attach the new ones. Good idea to invest in a small tube of the stuff, as you will want to coat all the ground connections and any connectors you clean with it to prevent further corrosion down the road..... In case you aren't aware, you have an internally regulated alt. '82 was the first year. Just don't want you to go off looking for an external regulator.... GD

A short in the system will cause the alternator to work very hard, it will drain the power from the alternator and thus the alternator won't charge anything. It will also cause the alt to fail prematurely. You need to figure out where the short is that is causeing the alt to work so hard. Talk with McBrat - he had very similar problems that were solved by re-routing the fuse box main power feed. GD

Nope - we never got that. We had a GLF in the early 80's.... that's about as close as we came I think. And that was replaced with the GL-10 in '83. GD

'82's seem to be very problematic in this area. I spoke at length with McBrat about his wagon, and as I recall, he ended up running a new wire to the fuse box under the dash - you might talk to him about this. It could be your battery as well. A dying battery can really take it's toll on the alternator. GD

Rather than spend any real money on the ASV, I make a trip the to junk yard and grab two or three of the reed valves themselves. Dismantle the ASV and remove it. They probably won't charge you more than $0.50 or $1 for several of them.... they won't have any clue what they are if you do it this way anway. Now the cool part - normally I don't use used parts for something like this, but in this case it's alright because you will only have the ASV enabled for the emmissions test. After that, you just put a quarter in the valve body where the pipe from the head threads in. This will disable the valve, and it only takes about 15 minutes to do it. When you need to pass emmissions again, simply remove the quarter. This way, you don't need a new reed vavle because you are only using it for very short periods of time, and under those conditions it will never wear out. Get an aftermarket O2 sensor. The dealer wants a fortune for them. Last one I got was a Bosch I think. Worked fine. You can check with the dealer on the temp sensor, but those are availible aftermarket as well. I replaced both on my feedback Hitachi and the arftermarket ones worked just fine. GD

The general rule is that whichever direction you hear the noise while turning, or whichever direction the noise seems worst in, it will be the opposite axle. So if you hear the noise while turning left, your right axle is going. And vise-versa. This is only a general rule of course. It has worked for me quite a number of times. It's not impossible that a remaned axle is bad. I've even heard of people getting them without grease in the joints... I personally only buy either JY axles or brand new ones from Autozone. GD

'87 was the last year for carbs, so it's possible that it could have either one. Lets hope it's the FI though. I've been told it was about 50/50 that year. GD

Are you sure he didn't mean MAF sensor? Could this be a turbo wagon by chance? Just a thought.... GD