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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. First - does the smoke smell sweet like coolant? Or like burn oil? Is it an automatic? If so, there is a modulator valve on the tranny that can suck tranny fuild into the intake... Check the PCV system, and check for coolant loss... Check the oil for water contamination, and the coolant for oil floating in it... If none of those check out, run a compression check to be sure, and then go after the carb base gaskets, and the intake manifold gaskets - those can leak coolant directly into the intake. GD
  2. Yes, the HG can be changed in the car, but on the OHC engines like yours, things are a bit different. The heads on the EA82's are more prone to cracking (in the exhaust port - between the valves is ok), so you should look for that, and of course check them with a metal straightedge for warpage. Good compression is 150 or more for each cylinder... but it's more important that they be within 10% of each other. 90 sounds a little low, but if they are all at 90, then it may just be the way you tested it. Changeing an engine is usually easier and cheaper than a HG, but it depends on what type of engine you are going changing to (Carb, SPFI, Turbo, MPFI), and what the car was eqquipped with originally. GD
  3. Just a joke man.... never heard that expression I take it? GD
  4. If the axle shaft got rusty, I could perhaps see that happening. Not common at all tho. At any rate, the bearing is toast now, as you are never supposed to exert any force on the inner race, and that's what happened when the axle pulled it from the knuckle... GD
  5. One line is for advance, and the other is for retard. I have an '80 manual that has the diagram for that disty I think.... we'll talk. GD
  6. I've never been told anything like this by new car dealers, or read anything in the manual's about it either. I think were it a huge deal, it would be mentioned in the owners manual, and the clutch instructions as well. If the flywheel is turned true, I don't think it's much of a problem. I agree that it's possible for hot spots to occur, and the flywheel to be damaged, but I have never expereinced it myself, and never heard of it occuring oustide of downright abuse of the clutch.... but that will damage it anytime, not just durring break in. GD
  7. Actually - that's not true - I know where there's a Justy that *had* an ECVT (it's even stickered on it), and it's been replaced with a 5 speed...... owned by an old couple who still drive it. It's 4WD too. Perhaps they changed the whole engine, but I wouldn't think so by the looks of the car. GD
  8. We can't pump ours here in OR either. And frankly, I've never had a problem with any of the attendants. The jobs pay pretty decent, but are certainly the bottom of the food chain, I would agree. At least they have a job. Jobs without qualifications are important to a certain degree. There will always be people who need them either because they are bone stupid retards, or perhaps they are just in a transitional period, and can't find any other work. Lots of manufactureing jobs are moving overseas, and a lot of those people are going to have to move into customer service oriented positions instead. I certainly *could* pump my own gas, but I would just rather let someone else handle it - less messy, and from what I've seen, our gas isn't a whole lot higher than WA where people pump their own. GD
  9. Not that I've heard of. It's like a brake pad only harder material, and if you have the flywheel turned, it will take a little bit to wear in, but there's no reccomended procedure for it I don't think. GD
  10. I like Justy's - they just aren't very reliable. I've seen it happen. My neighbor had a nice little 5 speed 4WD - engine died at about 92k.... seen lots with low mileage in the junk yard too. I have to assume that something is going on. GD
  11. Stay away from it like the plauge. The ECVT is not the car you want - especially with the "clutch temp" light on. The ECVT's die from heat - always. Not to mention the justy engines aren't known for going far beyond 100k miles. They really were the black sheep of the subaru family. You could have changed that axle yourself in an hour or two for less than $100.... GD
  12. On the EA81's different distributors (ND vs. Hitachi) have different coils. Could be a clue.... GD
  13. Well - it made it to the show on a trailer. They pushed it over to the sound competition after the show-n-shine. Good thing the fair-grounds is flat. Poor guy...GD
  14. He's right - they slip like crazy - even on a stock rig. Been there, done that. My Brat is at 140k - original clutch - 225mm GD
  15. Still have that '78 - FINALLY got the stupid engine out of it like a week ago. Tranny is still up for grabs if you want/need it. I'm going to pull it and keep it around just in case anyone ever needs it.... GD
  16. I think the last NAPA one we got was $98 for the reman kit. Made by Parute as I recall. Works fine. GD
  17. My personal belief is that it's not the pump itself, but rather the lines comming off the pump pulsating against the body. The pump is well insulated, and the "sound" doesn't appear to actually be a sound, but a vibration through the body of the vehicle. GD
  18. 82 should not have points.... and if it does then no one on here will have the specs I doubt. The US never got EA81's with points distributors... Timing is 8 degrees at 700 RPM's +-100 RPM's Plug gap should be right around .040" GD
  19. Try jumping it with another vehicle - sounds like the battery is just dead. The "click" is the sound of the starter solenoid, and you just don't have enough juice to turn the starter. GD
  20. well..... the rear end is going to turn regardless of if you are "in" 4WD or not. It turns anytime the front turns. If putting it in 4WD locks up the rear end, and the car won't move, then I would have to say the problem is inside the transaxle. Could be that the transfer case (which is part of the transmission on a soob) is internally damaged Without looking at it in person, that's the only thing I can think of that would cause that. GD
  21. First thing, 83's are not AWD, but rather, 4WD. 4WD should not be used except on loose surfaces (Ice, snow, gravel, dirt, etc). Using 4WD on dry pavement will "bind" the rear wheels as they are unable to turn at a different rate than the front wheels. AWD has an extra differencial inside the transaxle that allows the front and rear to turn at different rates, and thus can be used on any surface. Some of the late 80's AWD transmissions, even had the ability to "lock" this center differencial and thus were capable of being both AWD and 4WD. 4WD is prefered for off-road, but AWD is definately better for pavement. GD
  22. Non-feedback carbs were availible for EA81's too. The design of the EA82 Hitachi is much better than the EA81 Hitachi in my opinion. John never did get that thing running... he swapped back to the EA81 Hitachi, and ultimately the car got parted out. I beleive the death blow to it was the EGR pipe not fitting properly when the EA82 manifold was synched down. Ended up breaking one of the manifold bolts off in the head, and then it got real ugly from there - swapping heads out, and blowing the HG's several times.... suffice to say the engine never ran right again. It's now in my possesion, and torn down completely - that's why I know the history of this experiment.... GD
  23. They have a listing for the EA81 225mm centerforce.... $422.95.. No listing that I can see for the EA82 225mm, but you could easily just use the EA81 setup - just have to get an EA81 flywheel, and drill the holes a little bigger to fit the EA82 crank. And transfer the timing marks over with a scribe. Personally, $100 for the LUK setup sounds spot on to me! The LUK stuff can take the punishment - no worries there. GD
  24. EA81T: Heads Pistons Main bearings *I think* *Also note that the EA81T has hydro lifters, so it shares all the differences of the hydro block as well. EA82T: Heads Pistons Main bearings *again - I think* That's all *I* know of.... there is probably more. GD
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