GeneralDisorder

Around here they cut the y-pipes up to remove the cat . If I go to the farther out yards in the country, I can find y-pipes that are complete. Still a pain if I need one. No punctureing of pans here - that's just wrong. They do remove the gas tank and put it in the trunk after draining it. GD

Just watch ebay - you'll find one. I just got an '82 FSM for $13 shipped. GD

'80 or 81 2WD DL - an interesting beast. Don't see many around. Sorry to say that without changing tranny's, you have the biggest engine you can fit. The EA81 never came with the right bell-housing to fit your tranny. If you go to an EA81 5 speed manual (or EA82 for that matter), you could fit the EA81 engine, which is about 80 HP for the later (83+) large valve version. Cam and EA71 pistons, with a Weber, and you are looking at over 100 HP easy. Probably on the order of 110 - 120 depending on a few small details. GD

If dirt somehow made it into the system, or the fluid seals on the rack are leaking, then you could potentially have dirt in the system - which will eventually scratch the cylinder in the rack or destroy the pressure seals and cause pressure leakage side-to-side in the rack. It would feel much the same as a dying pump, but without the associated nasty noises. Not likely tho - Subaru PS racks are extremely tough. Even horribly neglected, they will outlast the engine by a good deal. GD

Not down here - never seen a cut brake line here. GD

There's been several EA81 to EJXX swaps done on this board. There's a Brat in WA that is in the proccess of receiving one right now - his post is around here somewhere. There is a Hatch in Aus that has an EJ in it, and there's a Brat in the marketplace right now with a 90 legacy EJ. The EJ engine will physically fit between the frame rails, as will the EA82 actually. The EJ engines are narrower than the EA82, so no issues there. The radiator is real close to the engine, but that too can be overcome with a low profile fan. The engine mount holes in the cross-member need to be widened a bit, but that's pretty easy. Axle cups have to be swapped around to make axles that properly mate to the trans, and of course the wireing. I have a master plan that includes this as well, but I'll be chopping up a running low mileage '93 Legacy turbo (rare) for it's drivetrain. 160 HP stock - probably be around 200 when I'm done. Possibly more later. GD

Yes - under the drivers side dash kick-panel. Durring the year that I owned one, I never expereienced a climb in RPM's, but when my O2 sensor died, the car wouldn't even idle, so I would say the answer is yes - depending on the nature of the problem. The ASV is the Air Suction Valve. You should have one on the drivers side head. The Silencer is a soft plastic muffler that is fitted to the intake of the ASV. When the ASV's reed valve fails, the hot exhaust will melt the silencer and the melted plastic will be sucked into the carb. GD

You could avoid the curtain problem.... just have them do the whole car! I hear that Rhino is the best, but LineX is probably a good deal better than the DIY stuff. Rhino has a product out now to restore the shine to their product, as it will fade from UV over time. I've heard good reviews on that product as well. GD

Yeah - I've had that happen as well. It's usually accompanied by a distinct change in the sound of the engine, and often you can smell the exhuast fumes from the melted silencer. If you find this to be your problem, you can put a quarter in the pipe leading from the head to the ASV valve itself to block off the system. This will get rid of the noise and fumes, but you would still have to deal with whatever it damaged in the carb. Not a nice problem. I was lucky in that the bits of silencer just jammed my choke plate open so the engine didn't want to start cold. GD

Yes - that is the choke plate. It's controlled by a bi-metallic spring and an electric heater. It's designed to pull off after a specified interval (5-10 minutes I would say). And it should be open at all times after the engine's initial warm up. Under NO circumstances should this plate be closed after the engine has been running for a few minutes. It is used only to enrich the mixture durring startup and cold running. Cold metal in the engine tends to cause the gasoline to condense into droplets.... which don't burn. To check the fast idle cam, you will have to open up the choke housing. Which means grinding the rivets off.... but I'm pretty confident you will find that it's working properly. Your problem is most likely in the feedback system. GD

The choke plate is only closed when the engine is cold, so what you saw is perfectly normal. Choke is still mechanical on your car..... I would first see if the computer is giving you any codes. Note that the codes will be cleared every time you shut the car off, so you will have to drive it for 30 minutes or so, and then check the codes without shutting it off. There is a fast idle cam inside the choke housing itself - if that were to bind up, then possibly it could set the idle high - but it would be more like 1500 - 2000, not 4000. Sounds like a problem with the feedback system - fualty sensor, or fualty control solenoids. Best thing to do, is get a good running Hitachi without all that crap and put it on. Or a Weber, but not everyone can afford those. GD

Well - of course condition is everything - but only IF you are looking for something to restore. After all, this is an 80's soob we are talking about here.... and not even a Brat. It's value on the market is pretty low already. Sounds like he wants 4WD, and a D/R.... if the car really is so nice that it deserves restoration, then it probably should be left the way it is - not hacked up for a 4WD conversion, lifted and then beat up. So..... it really depends on what you want. Do you want something you can have fun in, or something you can restore fairly easily? Or will this be yet another pavement queen, with a lift and meaty tires, that never sees dirt? IF you plan to see dirt flying with this thing, then save your money and put it into the drivetrain and suspension. The exterior will be shot in short order if you go this route, so you might as well start with something less than perfect, but in running condition. You'll pay less, and have more money for the cool off-road parts you're going to need. And don't say "I'm going to take it off-road, but not beat it up..." because that's just the same as a pavement queen now isn't it? If you don't have more body damage after each season, then you aren't trying hard enough - might as well stay on the pavement. And if that's the case.... WTF are you doing with a lift in the first place? GD

Whoops - I should have mentioned those pics are from the USMB. There's lots more interesting EA81 RX pics here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rudy.html GD

Last running 4WD manual 83 wagon I was privy to the sale of: $200 - drove it away. Bad wheel bearing, brakes needed bleeding, and bad tags. Last non-running 4WD manual 83 wagon I know of: Traded a $50 camera for it. Great condition - blown HG. Made a good parts car - might still resurect it at some point. I bought my 84 2WD 5 speed wagon in nearly MINT condition, and low miles (140k) at a dealer auction for $400. Drove it for 2 years before I converted it to 4WD, and in all that time, all I ever did was change the oil. 2WD - not-running - automatic. I probably wouldn't even take it if it were given to me for free unless it was real close. Last 2WD Auto I got, I drove away for $1. Even had good tags. Seriously - pass. As for putting the engine in - not a huge deal, but still a good days work. Conversion to 4WD is another thing entirely. I did that, and was starting with a manual 2WD, so didn't have to deal with the pedal assembly or clutch, and I will NEVER do it again. Too much effort when 4WD cars can be found cheap. Digid-dash = bad juju. GD

Round headlights means it's a Gen 1: '77 - '81 GD

Yeah - I have wet dreams about those heads..... I've done some searching, and I can't find anything on the net about Subaru ever entering the east African Safari Rally, but that's what this picture sugests. That had to be a MONSTER of an engine - probably built by Subaru of Japan and driven by them as well. Just a guess, but I would say that engine is probably pushing 150 HP or more. RAM performance has got 140 HP from stock heads that have been dual-ported on the intake side - still single on the exhaust tho. With a custom cast dual port head like those, and the downdraft carbs right on top of the heads.... that thing would likely blow the doors off most of the modified EA82T's around. Then there's the SUB4 heads. You can buy those still of course - RAM is the US distributor I beleive. Those heads are plain crazy - dual intake, dual exhaust. I recall someone at SUB4 saying he has two Brat's - one turbo, and one blown. The turbo is pushing 190 HP, and the blower motor is right around 200 he claims. It's interesting to note that Subaru didn't really race the EA series turbo's - they raced heavily modified N/A engines.... Check out the mad snorkels on this beasty: GD

We never got them in the US, and neither did most of the rest of the world. Some of the Subaru race engines had some wacky custom heads like that - dual intake, dual exhaust port.... like these: JDM EA81 RX stuff if I were to hazard a guess. Rare as hens teeth and probably cost you more than an STi front clip. At any rate, if I had them, I wouldn't be selling them, and likely no one else will either. If I had a set, believe me, I would be burried with them. GD

You could try using a carb block, which is between the two extremes. Turbo is 7.7, carb is 8.5, and SPFI is 9.5.... GD

DOH! I shouldn't say this, but.... I told you not to use an easy out! They always break - never fails. GD

Can get em new for around $55 - just for comparison. I asked WJM about em. GD

Dumb..... like a bag of hammers. GD

Yeah - manual RX tranny. Auto's were very limited in the RX's, and I no want auto. HTi - you have a PM. GD

Not unless you use the manifold for it as well. The EA82 carb manifold needs to be modified to fit the EA81. Not sure about the other way around. GD

I *think* your driveline is the right one. I don't recall there being a difference between auto and stick drivelines on the EA81. If there is, I have a manual one here - needs a u-joint, but should be fine otherwise. Talking to Turbone, I do recall that the leading rod plates as well as the cross-member are different, so you'll have to find both. I have that stuff too. I think I can hook you up if you can toss a few $$ my way - just for my time. If you come up here we can pull the parts. I have a complete good clutch and flywheel in my garage - just checked. I would reccomend a new disc tho. This one is worn down a bit. Would get you moving tho. GD

Failure of the wheel bearings? When did this happen, and why wasn't I told? Hehe. I'm running 6 lugs, and the offset is about 3" wider per side..... many other people are running them as well, and I've not heard of this before. I agree, it's certainly possible, but I have not seen any evidence showing it to be true in the sepcific case of the Subaru bearings - they are tough, and larger than they need to be anway. Have you heard something I have not Junkie? GD