GeneralDisorder

I have a couple extra 225mm flywheels if you need one. GD

They generally die right around 180-220k :-\. You can try dressing the governor, but the tranny is probably not going to last much longer anway. Best to start looking for a replacement while you still have wheels..... GD

My mileage on my wagon is around 18 even with 28" tires (215/75R15's), on drilled chevy rims..... Your mileage should be at least a little better than that, but yes it will go down some. In theory you are correct Vega - but in practice it never seems to work that way. The engine is working harder, and more often to drive those big tires. If the engine worked just as hard for any size, then yes - the mileage would go up. Think about it this way - would you rather roll a 13" tire down the street, or a 55" tractor tire? Which one would make you sweat more? See my point? GD

Yota with lockers is probably a little more capable, but also HEAVY, and it really doesn't matter what you are driving in mud like that. While he may have more traction, more lift, and more power, his wieght will serve to get him stuck just that much worse. In the end, we aren't all that different really. Ask yourself.... if you had proper recovery gear could you have got out? Did you have a come-along or a hi-lift to winch with? Shovel(s)? ect Treat it like a learning experience - we've all been there at some time or another. You'll get it back, and on the road - don't worry too much. GD

What we commonly refer to as EA81 is actually properly known as "Gen 2", and it encompasses '80-'84. '85 to '89 are all EA82's or "Gen 3", and also '90-'94 Loyale's. All of these cars (with the exception of some '80 and '81 models) share the same bell-houseing, and with a little clutch swapping, and cutting/pasting of the linkages, and cross-members, all the tranny's will swap around. GD

Should have rear discs too, and possibly a rear sway bar! GD

Yeah - depends on how big the thing you are heating is. If we are talking about a small bolt, then mapp gas or possibly even straight propane could work, but talking axle nuts or DOJ cups..... there is just too much metal for a small torch to work fast enough. Sure it will get hot eventually, but so will whatever it's attached to, and you will negate any benifit. GD

Check to make sure the PS pump isn't the culprit - the EA81T's use a version of the EA82 PS pump, but I have seen the EA81T pump fail. The EA82 pump will bolt right on, and might solve your problem there. Also check the u-joint in the steering linkage - I've had the freeze up from rust and I ended up rebuilding the PS rack becuase I *thought* the rack was bad. The EA81 PS racks are real tough, and I have a hard time beleiving it's bad. Huck the trans, but at least try to repair the PS - it's VERY nice, and doesn't rob any power to speak of. GD

NO, a 2WD, or '82 4WD clutch WILL NOT BE GOOD ENOUGH. Bad juju - I left the 2WD clutch in my wagon after the conversion, and it slipped REALLY bad with the big tires. Just doesn't have enough grip to turn them. Get a 83+ 4WD flywheel, and put the 225mm clutch in. You will hate yourself if you don't. Ask Qman what happened to me..... GD

I aint carrying a freakin compressor or even a propane torch to the JY with me. That's just crazy. The more stuff I carry in, the harder it is to hump it all the way to the Subaru's and hump it all the way back to the counter. Some yards have wheelbarrows, but even then - the more I carry in, the less I can fit in the wheelbarrow Everything I take to the yard fits in a "wide mouth" canvas tool bag (except my BIG breaker bar). I also have a folding canvas chair for the times that I'll be sitting by a wheel for a stretch. Both have sholder straps, cause the arms get tired humping that crap back and forth without a wheelbarrow. I have yet to be defeated by a part I couldn't get removed.... Generally speaking, a propane torch (the small bottle kind, not a full blown shop model) won't get a part hot enough to do anything but burn you. You need oxy/acetelene or oxy/propane to get the torch hot enough to really do any good, and that's just too big to be bringing with you to a yard. If you have a real hot torch, it does work quite well though as a technique to remove stuff. The trick is to heat it up FAST, before whatever it's attached to has a chance to equalize in temp, and then remove it. GD

Sounds like you need to "dress" the governor. It comes out the side of the tranny, and the edges of the sliding mechanism get rought with years of shifting. The parts expand as they warm, and eventually start working, but in the cold state they have trouble moving freely. The procedure isn't terribly difficult if you have some mechnical skills. There was an article in the online repair manual addressing this - perhaps someone can dig it up for you. The other alternative is to replace the tranny. Good news there is that any EA81 or EA82 automatic will bolt up to your engine and work just fine. The 3 speed automatics (like yours) are not very reliable however. You could covert to a manual, but if you want to stay with an automatic, they did make a 4 speed automatic in the later years of the EA82 series that are reputedly the most reliable of the automatics that will bolt up to your car. I have one for sale in fact if you are interested. It would require some wireing to install, as it is computer controlled, but it's a 4 speed AWD from an '88 turbo. $75 if you come and yank it from the car in my driveway, or $100 if I yank it. Otherwise it goes to the crusher pretty soon..... I've got it posted over in the market place, but there hasn't been much intrest Too bad I don't have any use for it myself: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20646 GD

Ask them to find you another one for sale in as nice of condition. They have to do it, or fix your car. It's that simple really. If they can't prove it's replaceable for what they are giving you, then they have to give you more, or fix your car. That is the ethics of the situation, and I would spell that out for them in plain english. Ask the adjuster how they would feel in your sitation. Make it personal if you can, and just wait - you'll get what you want, but like we said, it takes time. Months maybe. It takes YOUR signature to close the deal, and without that, they are stuck. Just remember that YOU are holding all the aces - the accident was not your fualt, you were injured (although minor), you were highly inconveinced, and they need your signature on the deal. Tell them that, and then ask them how they think a judge would feel about the situation.... GD

Do a tune up, and get it running correctly. They really aren't that slow if you have them in proper tune. 80 HP doesn't sound like a lot, but Brat's are light. My 85 can move pretty good - better than my friends carbed EA82 wagon, and both are bone stock as far as drivetrain. Another thing to note, is you shouldn't be afraid to rev it up. The engine makes it's best power around 3500 - 4000, and I usually shift around 5500 myself. A Weber will help the low-end torque, but your high end isn't going to change at all really. For that you have to tear the engine down and replace the cam. A lot can be had with a different cam, a little higher compression, and a better flowing carb like the Weber. As mentioned above - do some searches on the stuff I mentioned, and you'll find a lot more specific information if you really want it. GD

My guess.... Junk in your carb float bowl draining into the jets. Time to do a rebuild..... Clogged primary jet - at idle it's using the idle circuit, and over 3 grand it's using the secondary. GD

The T-tops would be good, but for some reason, they don't really sell well. I have like two extra sets, and whenever I see them for sale, there just doesn't seem to be much intrest. Strange, I know - but such is the way of things. Grab the gaskets under the T-tops - if they are good. GD

This has been discussed at length in the past, and the consensus is that it's not needed on the EA81's. EA81's do not have proportioning valves anyway, and adding them does not seem to be needed for a disc swap. Swapping over to the disc's on the EA81's has been done by many, many folks (including myself), and no issues have ever been noted by anyone who has actually done it. Normal braking is not affected, and with the rear discs on a lifted rig, you can lock up all 4 wheels on dry pavement easily. GD

Stuff you should "obtain" from the Gen 2 Brats if you can... board members will want this stuff: Good seat covers (the bucket seats only came in Brats) Rear seats, head rests, and seat belts. Bed carpet Rear bed side moldings (black plastic - both in front and behind the wheel well) Rear mudflaps Tail gates Tail lights Tail gate chrome trim Chrome trim attachement "clips" (plastic - under the chrome around the bed and tail gate). Straight rear bumpers, and end caps That's all I can think of at the moment.... there's proabably more. All those parts are specific to Brats, and cannot be found on anything else. Most of these items will be worth more than you will pay from a junk yard as they are difficult for many board members to find. GD

Probably - but not if the gears are shot. Likely a Tractor Mech would just pull the driveline and diff and replace the driveline with a spray paint can lid, a plastic garbage bag, and some bailing wire to keep the fluid in. Oh - and of course a gallon of cheap wal-mart 90 weight to keep the tranny full.... other options include parking it in the back 40 and driving the chevy, or even dropping the chevy drivetrain into the Brat..... with liberal use of bailing wire, duct tape, and a dirty sock for an air cleaner. Replacing the gears is a bit of an operation, as proper shimming will be required with a different ring and pinion. Unless you have the right tools, and the knowledge, a transmission shop would be the place to look for help.... GD

This is AUS he speaks of - 3.7's are the law of the land over in those parts..... GD

You should be able to bolt on the entire drum assembly from an EA82 if you want. All the EA81/EA82 rear brake systems bolt to the control arms the same way - you just have to monkey with the hard/soft lines to get them properly routed. I *think* some of the later EA82 drum systems were also self adjusting.... could be wrong on that, but I swear I've seen some that were. I wouldn't bet on the drums fitting in place of an EA81 drum tho - being heavier, the EA82's were probably equiped with larger drums in the rear just as they were equiped with larger discs in the front. I have some extra EA81 drums laying around if you get desperate - several sets actually. At least two sets have the rubber covers for the adjusters! GD

But what fun would it be if a whole week went by without this question? But I digress..... A 27" tire is roughly a 205/75R15 - which is a common size. You can fit them, but you'll have to break out the sawzall and the BFH to do it without a lift. GD

Yes, there were most definately 3.7 diffs in '82. For one, the automatics were 3.7, and the 2WD's were 3.7. In AUS, all the Brumby's were 3.7 as well - weird, since all the Brat's here in the US were 3.9 It could be that the PO put the 3.9 in mistakenly, or thought he would get some strange benifit from it. If you ever ran the vehicle on dry pavement with a 3.7 in the front and a 3.9 in the rear.... that could account for the premature failure of the diff. I've seen a lot of diffs abused, but never seen one actually fail - except broken stub axles. Anything is possible of course. Without knowing the gear ratios of the tranny (who knows - maybe he put a 3.9 tranny in as well!), it will be difficult to figure out the diff ratio. I say put the 3.7 in, and see what happens on dry pavement - put it in 4WD and see if you can travel in a straight line without binding. If it does, then you'll need to source a 3.9 diff..... we have tons of them here in the states, and I'm sure someone would be willing to ship you the ring and pinion gears so you can have that 3.7 converted. GD

And pay attention to what coil you have now. 2WD and 4WD have different resistance values to match the ignition module in the disty. GD

Get one of these: http://www.busdepot.com/busdepot/details.jsp?partnumber=5748 Best tool for the job hands down. Most times it will take off the nut with a couple hits EVEN with the hub spinning freely - you just set the tool on the hub and whack it with a hammer - sure the wheel will spin, but a couple smacks and the nut will spin off anyway - inertia baby. Believe me - I use mine all the time. These tools are intented for older VW buss rear axles where the torque is 250 lbs. Makes short work of the measly 150 lb torque of a Subaru axle nut. Light, small, cheap, easy to use - what more can you ask for? Won't hear me curseing in the yard - I get the job done and get the heck out. It's just a matter of learning what works well. Take rear axles for instance - often frozen to the splines with rust. If I don't notice movement after 5 hits of a BFH, I move on to the next suitible car. If I HAVE to have that specific one, then I'll either beat the stub out of the wheel bearing and deal with it later, or dismantle the inner joint, pop the grease cap from the bottom, and unbolt the stub axle from the diff.... if it's a front DOJ..... well, your just screwed I guess - never come accross one of those that was rusted tho, as there is generally a liberal quantity of grease in the vicinity of the transmission. GD

There is no significant difference between the advance curve of a 2WD disty and the advance curve of a 4WD. This is a wives tale, and I'm not sure how it even got started. NOTE, that this holds for EA81's ONLY. EA82's have many different curves for different years/types of fuel systems. Have a look in the FSM if you do not beleive me.... One must also be careful to match the correct disty to the correct ignition coil. The resistance values of 2WD and 4WD distributors and ignition coils are different. Hitachi coils go with Hitachi distributors and ND coils go with ND distys. Per the FSM. The difference in resistance probably accounts for the "increase" in throttle response that people feel. The 4WD coil with a 2WD disty will make a hotter spark, but do not mistake this for a difference in the advance curve. Your just asking to blow up the coil or the ignition module by doing crap like that. GD