GeneralDisorder

E-10 torx. Must be 1/4" drive. You can get it from Snap-On, Matco, etc. GD

Power steering is totally the way to go. Seriously. It gives you so much more control off-road - it's like a different car. Sounds like you need to get your u-joints farther apart. More distance = less angle. Shorten the peice that attaches to the rack, and shorten the column, then try it. GD

No - he's talking about the difference between an EA81 and an EA82 to us. Subaru refers to the whole EA82 line ('85-'94) as the "Loyale". The Leone is the '80-'84 EA81 body. Completely different cars. I don't see why this naming convention wouldn't hold for Austria - but who knows. GD

You don't understand - He's putting a rebuilt EA81 into his '86 cause the EA82 is dead. GD

For the right speaker, I installed a 3x5 - I got a blaupunkt that just barely fits between the mounting studs. I had to dremel it's plastic mounting frame so the studs would clear, and then I just threaded the old nuts back on the studs. Works great. The left speaker I haven't messed with yet, but it's a totally weird size, in a very small space, so it will be a challenge. Depending on the year, you may or may not have door speakers, and you may or may not have the driver's side speaker in the dash. '82 models only came with 1 speaker! GD

The EA81 is far superior to the EA82 in my opinion. I think you got a decent deal. As for HP - no. Won't change appreciably. Torque will be better on the low end, but your high end is not limited by the fuel system. Your limit is the cam, and bad flowing heads. $100 for everything you needs sounds more than reasonable to me. I say go for it. It's no small amount of work, but when you are done you'll have the best of both worlds - the bulletproof FI, and the bulletproof pushrod engine. Now that's a winning combo. GD

You have made the mistake of compareing a computer controlled automatic transmission, with a human controlled manual..... Not only that, but the Volvo's mileage goes in the toilet if you get on that turbo. I had that same engine in my '94 850T - except making 250 HP or so. Very little turbo lag, yes - and the automatic keeps you from spooling it except when you mash it to the floor - but when it spools, damn was it fast! Watch the fuel guage drop like there was a crew of russian cosmonauts under the hood drinking it by the 5th. The manual in the Forester means the turbo will be spooled WAY more often. GD

As you can see - there is a LOT to consider. Hehe GD

I personally haven't done it, but Skip did, and we talked at length about it over email. He was concerned that I didn't have a return fitting - that it might damage my pump, and sugested I use the Hitachi barb. So far it hasn't hurt me not having the return, so I'm sticking with my stock Weber fitting. Now that's not to say that your Weber's casting isn't different than the ones that come in the Subaru kit.... But I would think it's the same, you just need to run a tap in there to make the threads for the barb. Or like you said - find a press fit one. Personally, I would go buy a grade 8 bolt the same size and thread as the barb, take a die grinder and make my own tap out of it. It's just aluminum after all..... GD

Fuel barb from the Hitachi will work. GD

That carb is a knock-off (licensed from weber by Ford actually) of the 32/36 DFV series. Same mounting as the DGV series, so the redline adaptor that we all know and love works just the same on it. BEWARE - some of the holley/weber 5200 series have smaller venturi's by a good bit than the DGV's do. Prolly make a little more torque than a Hitachi, but not a lot. Not worth the effort/cost in my opinion. Just get a DGV. Either will work, but you will have to experiment with jetting on the 5200 as the difference in venturi sizes leaves you without any reference for jetting. Same jets as the DGV, but will require different sizes because of the reduced airflow. GD

Yokohama makes nice tires - I second that. They make real nice smoke too... If you want the end all in all-season performance tires - check out Nokian.... http://www.nokiantyres.com/ GD

Sounds like an inner DOJ on one of your front axles. Those can cause severe vibration when accelerating. Look for broken boots, but that isn't always the culprit. Sometimes the joints just fail. GD

There are MANY Subarus of your vintage here. There's at least 100 just in the wrecking yards within 30 miles of my home. I see more than I can count on a daily basis driving the freeways. Cars don't rust here on the west coast of the US, so we have a LOT of older soobs. Your mileage is exceptionally low - quite amazing for a car that old. I have an 82 with only 74,000 on it, but it looks terrible - only good for parts. Your english is better than a lot of people I know who learned it from birth. Seriously. Having been in the ARMY, I've met some of the dumbest.... GD

NICE! How much did the sooby gurny set ya back? GD

Cars break. What else is new? You want reliable? Get a Bycicle. I've yet to meet a car that didn't need *anything* before 200k. Although I've seen some Ford's try real hard. Still needed brakes. The whole point of Subaru's *was* that they were simple, and easy to work on.... of course they departed from that principle in '85. The *new* principle, is just like all the other manufacturers - pretty package + ooh-aahh features + dumb buyers = profit. That said, Subaru has had a few "choice" vehicles - either by dumb luck, or by the law of averages. Just about all the EJ22 powered vehicles are nearly unstopable - early Legacy's going half a million miles isn't unheard of. Their 5 speed transmission design (hasn't changed much since '85 - just gotten stronger) is really excelent. Even after several hundred K's, they often still shift smooth, with no syncro problems. On the other hand you have things like the EA82(T) series - yuck. The whole range of Subaru's Automatic's - yuck. The EJ25 with it's HG issues - yuck. The ECVT transmission - yuck. Really - just like any other manufacturer - each model is different. Occasionally you will see one that is exceptional - most will have a few quirks - and there will even be some lemon's that happen. The Justy's were known for eating engines every 100k or so.... not something you associate with other soobs. GD

Screw the vice grips - I like a good small pipe wrench for a job like that. The harder you turn, the harder it grips.... Seriously tho - just find another manifold - they are a dime a dozen. GD

It's very hard to tell from the ad, but it appears to be for a 2WD. Your 84 has the wrap around plastic bumper, and this one on ebay requires the end caps like either an '82 4WD bumper, or a 2WD shock mount bumper. You might get it mounted (could be easy, or might require some fabrication), but you will also have to find some bumper ends to make it complete..... and who knows if they will fit this thing (it's aftermarket, so...??) GD

SPFI was availible from 86-94. Wiring is one issue. You also have to switch to the SPFI distributor (assuming you are running the Subaru computer and harness....), which requires that the distributor casing be modified slightly (one mounting tab removed, and the adjustment slot on the other enlarged) and the drive gear from the EA81 distributor pinned on (which requires the correct hole be drilled in the shaft). Many EA81 exhaust headers did not include the O2 sensor which the SPFI requires to work correctly. This will have to be added (hole drilled - threaded adaptor welded in), or an O2 equipped header located (from a feedback Hitachi EA81). The nasty wireing (and potentially the disty swap as well) can be partially avoided by using the SPFI system, and switching to a megasquirt system for the fuel managment. This also avoids using the stock SPFI MAF sensor, as the megasquirt is equipped with a MAP sensor instead. The system can be setup to use either the EA81 disty, or the EA82 disty, but the EA82 disty is prefered. If you can find one, an EA81T disty will also do the job, but doesn't require any modifications like a regular EA82 one would. GD

Probably a dirty starter solenoid. You can dismantle the starter and clean the contacts..... It wouldn't be the lock barel - it would be in the ignition switch if that's your problem. It's bolted to the lock, and comes right out with two phillips screws. Just remove the column's plastic covers and you'll see it. Not serviceable - it would have to be replaced. GD

Perhaps. You can also try removing the secondary idle jet, and just plugging that off with a bolt. You don't need it, and it's probably dumping in extra fuel. Are you just slightly out of spec? Mine jumped around at idle - first low, then really high. Turned out to be a cracked evap canistor causing a vac leak..... idle "quality" was poor. Might try having a brand new cat welded up in place of the resonator pipe..... GD

Actually - it's *over* 1:1, so 4th IS overdrive. The ratio of the 81/82 4th gear is like .942, where the ratio of the 83+ 4th is like .885..... 3rd gear is something like 1.344, and 1.266 respectively. Look at his chart ^ it's better than my memory :-p What I don't get about that chart, is it seems like 82 4WD wagon's didn't exist..... which they did.... for sure. Heh. Weird GD

Yeah - the 3rd and 4th gears in the 81/82 are shorter. Good for a lifted rig, since the big tires don't like high gearing. Otherwise they just get crappy gas mileage on a stock setup. GD

For one thing - just eliminate the resonator completely. What I would do, is find a friendly welder, pop open the cat - gut it - weld it back up and put it's dust cover back on so you can't tell it's been modified. Now - install a cheap cat in place of the "resonator" (which is really just a fancy name for a sort of muffler - it's not emmissions related). You can pick up cheap "turbo" cat's on ebay for less than $50. Oh - and when you go to open up the cat - use a die grinder, not a torch. It's stainless steel, and a torch job won't be pretty at all. It does weld real nice tho. And for the record...... NO - I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS....... And them saying they can't "make" an exaust is just stupid - go to a small muffler shop, or better yet - make friends with someone who has a small MIG setup. Any small welder will do the job. They haven't got a clue what they are doing if they claim they "can't" do something. With a welder, torch, and die grinder, you can do anything. A good exhaust shop should be able to do a COMPLETE exhaust system (engine to muffler) for $400 - $500 depending on what cat and muffler brands you go with. GD

Then there's the 81 GL Brat..... GD