Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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Gas mileage vs/vs
Neither is very good, but the Brat should beat the Turbo by a hair. My Brat averages about 26-27.... the turbo's weren't real economical.... probably 25 at best, but could be as low as 20. GD
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Digital dash Q's TURBONE SPEAK UP!
It should still work. I suspect you will find the connectors to be the same, but if you look close a couple wires may be missing from the non-turbo unit. On an interesting note, I had the alt go bad on my wagon (too much mud for it), and what I noticed (other than the really, really loud bearings) was that the dash didn't complain very loudly about the horribly out of spec voltage it was seeing. I had occasion to swap that alternator into my Brat who's analog cluster lit up like the 4th of July when it saw the 20 volts of DC and AC mix comming from that alt. The Digi-dash suffered no injury, but the interesting thing to note is that I would have had nearly no indication of the over-voltage condition until it was too late if not for the alt bearings making a nasty racket. The dash gave very little indication that anything was amis. I think the digi's are actually pretty decent, and can take a lot, but their downfall is that they are too accomidating.... if they warned you sooner it wouldn't be a problem. The idiot light bar on mine glowed very faintly with the over-voltage, but it was hard to see.... I had to put my hand up to the dash and look very close to see the faint glow. Moral of the story is you should install a voltage guage so you can monitor the DC (and preferably the AC too) output from the alt. GD
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My poor FSM....
Yours is even older Alex - you'll be lucky if the rats haven't started chewing on it... GD
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SOA says I should not...
I doubt Subaru would go for that, but we could hand them out at functions on CD, and swap them via private FTP and such. The real difficulty of course is getting someone to scan them. Very length operation unless you have access to a scanner with a document feeder. Even then you have to unbind an FSM to do it. Doesn't destroy it of course, but it does mean it has to be in a three ring binder for the rest of it's life. I personally wouldn't mind doing it - I have a band-saw, but no document feeding scanner..... GD
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SOA says I should not...
Scan the whole thing, and put it in PDF format. I'm sure we could find somewhere to host it. If nothing else - I'll host it myself. GD
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SOA says I should not...
Frankly, I don't think they would care even if they knew. It's not exactly their biggest concern - being it's a diagram for a 15 year old car that they aren't likely to make any real money serviceing anyway. One of the parts guys at Lithia ran me off a copy of a couple pages from an 84 FSM just the other day. Didn't think anything of it, and neither did he.... You are the kind of parts guy I like Will.... I'll be throwing some business your way soon. GD
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Before and After I had my carburetor rebuilt.
Doing the rebuild yourself only costs about $35 for the kit, and takes an extra hour or two. My time is certainly worth a couple hundred bucks, and I suspect yours is as well.... if it wasn't you wouldn't be driving a carbed soob. The time it takes to ship it, and get it back is more inconveinent than just doing the rebuild myself - not to mention having to drive something else while I wait for it. I can order all the parts, wait for them to arrive, and then do the entire job in an afternoon after work.... and drive to work the next day. GD
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Okay stupid question i know... but thermostat replacement
(It's an EA82 she's talking about) No, and No. There is no specific position for the jiggle pin on the EA82. The housing sits horizonatally, and thus the pin can be situated at any point, so no matter how you installed it, it will be correct. Really - you are barking up the wrong tree here. It has zero effect on the engine starting, and it has zero effect on idle speed. As for overheating..... that depends on the condition of the engine. I overheated my EA81 very badly recently, but due to replacing the HG's with Fel-Pro's I had no trouble at all. The EA82's are not usually problematic with HG's unless you are talking about the turbo models. The N/A engines are quite sturdy and will stand overheating a bit. But you should do a compression check just to be sure. GD
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Before and After I had my carburetor rebuilt.
Bushing the throttle shaft is a normal part of carb rebuilding - not something RooBuilders came up with just for the Subaru carbs. All carbs including the Weber's suffer primary throttle shaft wear, and must be rebushed eventually. RooBuilders sells throttle bases that have already been rebushed so you can rebuild the rest of the carb yourself if you want.... GD
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envious of US subaru owners
Even here in Soob central a Brat is a pretty rare sighting. I do see about 1 a week in the summer tho. I usually see about 1 EA81 a day if I'm looking..... GD
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Looking for General Disorder
oops! Forgot about that one. GD
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envious of US subaru owners
We don't get the TT's here As for the Baja - it sucks, and they are almost certainly discontinueing it. It didn't reach it's target market, and sales have been terrible. They wanted the 25-35 crowd, and got the 45-55 crowd instead. It's an outback with no roof in the back. Too bad too, since it could have been so much more if they had stuck with the concept car design. GD
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EA81 heater hoses
Yeah - 3/8" - except for the small 90 degree peice that goes into the pump. The heater core lines can be straight - no problems there. GD
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envious of US subaru owners
Well - they are quite popular in certain areas, and the newer models such as the WRX and the STi have become popular almost everywhere. A lot of the older Subaru's were sold on the west coast, and since we don't have a lot of rust here, a good portion of them have survived. Parts are plentiful and cheap - they are easy to work on, and economical to drive. For those of us that aren't interested in impressing the joneses, and don't mind working on our own cars, they are a good choice. GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
The cable is a single peice unit - housing and cable are all one part. Fishing it though the firewall..... well you don't really. You don't fish it that is. You just stick it though. The hole is large and easily accessible - don't worry about that. Here's my tech page on it.... still needs a couple pics, but it's pretty much done: http://home.comcast.net/~cropperr/clutch.html GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
Ok - I can see that my tech write-up, which isn't quite done, is needed here..... I'll upload what I have.... just a sec. GD
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Small Claims Court Victory...
I think he is talking about somone he hired to get his car ready to pass emmissions. The guy was probably testing the driveability of some changes he made to the carb.... or something like that. GD
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Pictures from CV axle replacement work.
That's geat! Glad you found the board useful. Maybe you could do a little write up for the online repair manual using these pics.... GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
Once again - your 87 pedal end is completely different than the 81. I personally feel the 80-82 is the easiest of the three styles I have dealt with. 20 minutes for me would probably be an hour or more for someone who has never done one tho - I could see that. But even at an hour, you have still saved a considerable amount over going to the dealer. GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
Not exactly - being an 81, it will have the older (and easier) system on the pedal side, with a metal clamp and a bolt. GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
The cable is easy to replace - takes about 20 minutes. I have a write up on it comming soon.... GD
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EA82 alternator on EA81
Unfortuanately, it will fit, but the '81 will not have the same wiring connections. The '81 model year had the external voltage regulator. '82-'89 are all the same - even turbo model's. '90-'94 Loyale's are also the same as these. And Ed is absolutely correct on fitting the EA82 alts. I have an 87 Turbo Wagon alt on my 85 Brat right now.... (BTW - this is true for starters too) GD
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Ever Since I had my Engine Detailed...
Sounds like it's time to tighten the cable up. This is on of two things - normal clutch adjustment, or a sign that your cable is fraying, and starting to "stretch". If that is the case, then it could break at some point in the future and leave you stranded. I would carry a spare cable (get one from the dealer - others are not as high quality), and also adjust the one you have. In my experience, when the cable starts to "stretch" it's usually accomanied by an increase in force needed to push the pedal. GD
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ea82 PS pump mounted to ea81 motor?
Yes - I know it can be done. Mudrat has done it before, so I know it's possible. Besides that the EA81T's had em, so it makes sense..... GD
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FYI: '86 turbo xt at Foster U-Pull-It in Portland!
Those aren't exactly uncommon in the yards around here. There's an MPFI XT in a yard on columbia (virtually untouched last week), and last month the Tigard U-Pull-It had 3 XT-6's.... Then there's the Damascus yard - they have a Gen 1 Brat amongst their junk. Really not uncommon to see a Turbo XT sitting around the Portland area yards. Dime a dozen like just about all the other soobs. This is Oregon remember! GD