GeneralDisorder

'92 don't help me much - but I'm sure someone will appreciate it. GD

Yep - that's usually how I do it. Just make sure not to leave the cap off very long as the system won't be able to build pressure. GD

Was it using any coolant before you flushed the radiator? GD

First, EA82's don't have a rear fuel filter. That's an EA81 thing. Second, putting the fuel pump under the hood should be fine. Most older cars, including Gen 1 Subaru's had the pump under the hood (electric pump mounted to the firewall). Going way back you see a lot of mechanical fuel pumps mounted directly to the engine block.... quite common. Please don't put it in the cabin. Some people have also mounted SPFI pumps under the hood of EA81 cars when installing SPFI onto the EA81 engine. The carb pump feeds the SPFI pump under the hood. This is done because the car's original fuel line wasn't designed for the high pressure SPFI system. I would go with an aftermarket Carter fuel pump. Check jegs or summit - they will have what you need. GD

I run a straight pipe on my lifted wagon. Gives it a nice sound I think. Cheap too. Cost about $3 for the pipe. Really not all that loud, and People ask me all the time what sort of custom exhaust I have..... I tell them the muffler fell off (it did!) GD

Hey Will - do the dealerships have access to anything on CD? GD

They are vac controlled, but here in the states the line is regular sized vac hose, and is located on the passenger side of the firewall..... where are you fuel lines over there? Here they are on the drivers side..... GD

I would say it's more difficult to replace the whole knuckle - you have to pop the tie rod end to do that. Silly if you ask me. GD

It depends a lot on the condition of the engine as to how long you can go without coolant. For example - I recently did the head gaskets on my Brat, and about 3 days after, the heater core return line burst and I lost every drop of coolant - I'm talking BONE DRY. I didn't see the guage right away - I did notice the engine start to ping a little. It got worse is a hurry. I pulled over thinking for sure one of the head gaskets I had just replaced had blown. I looked at the guage and it was pegged out - way above the red. Who knows how hot it was. Anyway I decided to drive it anyway figureing the damage was done, and hoping it would get me home. I restarted the engine - temp guage was still in the red. Started driving and the pinging was still there - getting worse by the minute. I drove about another mile to the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart parking lot. By the time I shut the engine down it was pinging so badly it sounded like a severe rod knock, and I couldn't go over 30 MPH. I called a friend who brought me a hose, and some coolant. I let it cool for about an hour - made the repair and filled it up. Started right up like nothing had happened, and I drove away. As far as I can tell 7k miles later no damage was done. The engine was so hot that the grime on the block had started to smoke. The guage was pegged out, and it was still getting hotter because the pinging got much worse as I continued to drive. I'm now a believer in the Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets - they survived that punishment, so that's the gasket for me from now on. Seriously tho - I would think nothing of any of the situations you described. It sounds like you have cared for your car well over the years. I wouldn't hesitate to drive with no dipstick, no radiator fan, and my radiator only half full. I've driven with about 1 quart of coolant before and it only got slightly hot (right at the bottom of the red). My wagon idles for long periods sometimes when I'm off-roading. The digi-guage sits at about 3/4 most of the time when it's doing that. Hasn't hurt it yet. GD

Adam - there was change in the crankcase design in the 1980 model year to make the water cross-over internal. Older ones had the exteral cross-over like in those pics. This change also brought about the new style water pump that's fully integrated to the block. GD

Neither is very good, but the Brat should beat the Turbo by a hair. My Brat averages about 26-27.... the turbo's weren't real economical.... probably 25 at best, but could be as low as 20. GD

It should still work. I suspect you will find the connectors to be the same, but if you look close a couple wires may be missing from the non-turbo unit. On an interesting note, I had the alt go bad on my wagon (too much mud for it), and what I noticed (other than the really, really loud bearings) was that the dash didn't complain very loudly about the horribly out of spec voltage it was seeing. I had occasion to swap that alternator into my Brat who's analog cluster lit up like the 4th of July when it saw the 20 volts of DC and AC mix comming from that alt. The Digi-dash suffered no injury, but the interesting thing to note is that I would have had nearly no indication of the over-voltage condition until it was too late if not for the alt bearings making a nasty racket. The dash gave very little indication that anything was amis. I think the digi's are actually pretty decent, and can take a lot, but their downfall is that they are too accomidating.... if they warned you sooner it wouldn't be a problem. The idiot light bar on mine glowed very faintly with the over-voltage, but it was hard to see.... I had to put my hand up to the dash and look very close to see the faint glow. Moral of the story is you should install a voltage guage so you can monitor the DC (and preferably the AC too) output from the alt. GD

Yours is even older Alex - you'll be lucky if the rats haven't started chewing on it... GD

I doubt Subaru would go for that, but we could hand them out at functions on CD, and swap them via private FTP and such. The real difficulty of course is getting someone to scan them. Very length operation unless you have access to a scanner with a document feeder. Even then you have to unbind an FSM to do it. Doesn't destroy it of course, but it does mean it has to be in a three ring binder for the rest of it's life. I personally wouldn't mind doing it - I have a band-saw, but no document feeding scanner..... GD

Scan the whole thing, and put it in PDF format. I'm sure we could find somewhere to host it. If nothing else - I'll host it myself. GD

Frankly, I don't think they would care even if they knew. It's not exactly their biggest concern - being it's a diagram for a 15 year old car that they aren't likely to make any real money serviceing anyway. One of the parts guys at Lithia ran me off a copy of a couple pages from an 84 FSM just the other day. Didn't think anything of it, and neither did he.... You are the kind of parts guy I like Will.... I'll be throwing some business your way soon. GD

Doing the rebuild yourself only costs about $35 for the kit, and takes an extra hour or two. My time is certainly worth a couple hundred bucks, and I suspect yours is as well.... if it wasn't you wouldn't be driving a carbed soob. The time it takes to ship it, and get it back is more inconveinent than just doing the rebuild myself - not to mention having to drive something else while I wait for it. I can order all the parts, wait for them to arrive, and then do the entire job in an afternoon after work.... and drive to work the next day. GD

(It's an EA82 she's talking about) No, and No. There is no specific position for the jiggle pin on the EA82. The housing sits horizonatally, and thus the pin can be situated at any point, so no matter how you installed it, it will be correct. Really - you are barking up the wrong tree here. It has zero effect on the engine starting, and it has zero effect on idle speed. As for overheating..... that depends on the condition of the engine. I overheated my EA81 very badly recently, but due to replacing the HG's with Fel-Pro's I had no trouble at all. The EA82's are not usually problematic with HG's unless you are talking about the turbo models. The N/A engines are quite sturdy and will stand overheating a bit. But you should do a compression check just to be sure. GD

Bushing the throttle shaft is a normal part of carb rebuilding - not something RooBuilders came up with just for the Subaru carbs. All carbs including the Weber's suffer primary throttle shaft wear, and must be rebushed eventually. RooBuilders sells throttle bases that have already been rebushed so you can rebuild the rest of the carb yourself if you want.... GD

Even here in Soob central a Brat is a pretty rare sighting. I do see about 1 a week in the summer tho. I usually see about 1 EA81 a day if I'm looking..... GD

oops! Forgot about that one. GD

We don't get the TT's here As for the Baja - it sucks, and they are almost certainly discontinueing it. It didn't reach it's target market, and sales have been terrible. They wanted the 25-35 crowd, and got the 45-55 crowd instead. It's an outback with no roof in the back. Too bad too, since it could have been so much more if they had stuck with the concept car design. GD

Yeah - 3/8" - except for the small 90 degree peice that goes into the pump. The heater core lines can be straight - no problems there. GD

Well - they are quite popular in certain areas, and the newer models such as the WRX and the STi have become popular almost everywhere. A lot of the older Subaru's were sold on the west coast, and since we don't have a lot of rust here, a good portion of them have survived. Parts are plentiful and cheap - they are easy to work on, and economical to drive. For those of us that aren't interested in impressing the joneses, and don't mind working on our own cars, they are a good choice. GD

The cable is a single peice unit - housing and cable are all one part. Fishing it though the firewall..... well you don't really. You don't fish it that is. You just stick it though. The hole is large and easily accessible - don't worry about that. Here's my tech page on it.... still needs a couple pics, but it's pretty much done: http://home.comcast.net/~cropperr/clutch.html GD