GeneralDisorder

Yeah - I have wet dreams about those heads..... I've done some searching, and I can't find anything on the net about Subaru ever entering the east African Safari Rally, but that's what this picture sugests. That had to be a MONSTER of an engine - probably built by Subaru of Japan and driven by them as well. Just a guess, but I would say that engine is probably pushing 150 HP or more. RAM performance has got 140 HP from stock heads that have been dual-ported on the intake side - still single on the exhaust tho. With a custom cast dual port head like those, and the downdraft carbs right on top of the heads.... that thing would likely blow the doors off most of the modified EA82T's around. Then there's the SUB4 heads. You can buy those still of course - RAM is the US distributor I beleive. Those heads are plain crazy - dual intake, dual exhaust. I recall someone at SUB4 saying he has two Brat's - one turbo, and one blown. The turbo is pushing 190 HP, and the blower motor is right around 200 he claims. It's interesting to note that Subaru didn't really race the EA series turbo's - they raced heavily modified N/A engines.... Check out the mad snorkels on this beasty: GD

We never got them in the US, and neither did most of the rest of the world. Some of the Subaru race engines had some wacky custom heads like that - dual intake, dual exhaust port.... like these: JDM EA81 RX stuff if I were to hazard a guess. Rare as hens teeth and probably cost you more than an STi front clip. At any rate, if I had them, I wouldn't be selling them, and likely no one else will either. If I had a set, believe me, I would be burried with them. GD

You could try using a carb block, which is between the two extremes. Turbo is 7.7, carb is 8.5, and SPFI is 9.5.... GD

DOH! I shouldn't say this, but.... I told you not to use an easy out! They always break - never fails. GD

Can get em new for around $55 - just for comparison. I asked WJM about em. GD

Dumb..... like a bag of hammers. GD

Yeah - manual RX tranny. Auto's were very limited in the RX's, and I no want auto. HTi - you have a PM. GD

Not unless you use the manifold for it as well. The EA82 carb manifold needs to be modified to fit the EA81. Not sure about the other way around. GD

I *think* your driveline is the right one. I don't recall there being a difference between auto and stick drivelines on the EA81. If there is, I have a manual one here - needs a u-joint, but should be fine otherwise. Talking to Turbone, I do recall that the leading rod plates as well as the cross-member are different, so you'll have to find both. I have that stuff too. I think I can hook you up if you can toss a few $$ my way - just for my time. If you come up here we can pull the parts. I have a complete good clutch and flywheel in my garage - just checked. I would reccomend a new disc tho. This one is worn down a bit. Would get you moving tho. GD

Failure of the wheel bearings? When did this happen, and why wasn't I told? Hehe. I'm running 6 lugs, and the offset is about 3" wider per side..... many other people are running them as well, and I've not heard of this before. I agree, it's certainly possible, but I have not seen any evidence showing it to be true in the sepcific case of the Subaru bearings - they are tough, and larger than they need to be anway. Have you heard something I have not Junkie? GD

If you wish it, I can look for the legacy bit in the JY's around here. We have had a LOT of them showing lately. '95 isn't out of the question at all. Price..... is it small enough for me to pocket?? heh. We can work something out.... Especially with all the carnage I seem to bring with my posts. Sorry about that. Hit me up with a PM. GD

I would not stick an easy out in there. Busted off tool-steel in your bolt is going to make your pucker factor even higher (as if you haven't ripped the fabric from your seat already reading the previous posts ). Wow. That's all I have to say about that. Grind the surface that you can see as flat as possible - measure to the center of the bolt, and mark with a felt pen. Line up the center punch REALLY carefully (repeat about 1000 times to MAKE SURE). If you don't get that punch dead center you will have a huge mess on your hands. If you can get it lined up tho, you should be able to drill that puppy out. I would work my way up with bigger and bigger bits till you can finally run a tap in to clear out the original threads. Use a band of tape on the drill bit to determine the proper depth - you should be able to figure out how much bolt is broke off in there by looking at the broken peice you have.... If you do bung the threads, go a size over in STD rather than metric, as it will be just slightly larger. Lotsa luck to you. On a scale of 1-10, that's easily a pucker factor 8. It's also the funniest thing I've read all day. GD

You'll get no arguments from me anymore. Cause you are always right. BTW - in the future, I would appreciate it if you would call me a "wuss" in person. It'll be a lot more fun for me. GD

And you will continue to hear it a lot - whenever I realize the other party of an agument isn't worth my time. GD

Thanks Jared. GD

Subaru (back in the day), had the forethought to steal a LOT of good ideas. In fact, I can't think of anything they didn't steal from someone. The Japanese were real good at that. They didn't have the money to research new tech, nor the ability to risk new tech on an already soft market here in the US. Their products had to be both cheaper and more reliable than the domestic competition even with the added cost of shipping across the ocean. GD

They discontinued the Hill Holder system for a while, but I understand it's back on some of the newer models availible now. Pretty much all the Subaru's with manual transmissions of the 80's had the HH. I think some of the DL's and STD model's perhaps did not. This was actaully not an original Subaru concept. It was first seen on the Studebaker. Subaru just stole the idea. GD

Are you *sure* the cable was routed correctly? The only time I've had them "stretch" is right before they snap.... GD

Check the codes from your computer - it will tell you what is wrong. GD

I run the MT-90 personally. It's great stuff. GD

Ok - your right - I'm wrong. You win. Actually - I have installed several lifts, and redesigned my own after the initial install was done for me. GD

Check for power at the motor. IIRC, the motor should have power at all times, and gets grounded by the switch. Check your ground connections for the wiper motor, and check the switch on the column surround. Might be dirty switch contacts, might be a ground issue. If you need the motor, someone here can come up with a used one. I can pull one from a local yard if you want. GD

Huh - well that's how it is here in the US anyway. Those crazy Europeans anyway.... GD

Fine by me - keep your manual rack - more power racks for me. EVERYONE who has driven my wagon off-road swears they will never build another one without it. It's not about turning force - it's about the buffering action that stops the wheel from being jerked out of your hands. A 4 runner has no bearing on this conversation - it has completely different caster, different turn ratio's in the rack, and different steering linkage. You can't compare them at all. Even attempting to compare the two is just plain ignorant. GD

So what exactly does a 4-runner with 31's have to do with an EA81? GD