GeneralDisorder

That's no air cleaner. That's just to prevent icing of the carb in the winter..... which CA doesn't even have :-\ Those Nazi emmissions idiots need to read up on engine theory. GD

Well - there is backlash adjustment on the side of the rack for the rack and pinion gear clearance - you might check the adjustment on that, and you can replace the tie rods and ends.... after that, unless the gears are horribly worn (never seen that), then there really isn't much else to it..... I suppose you could have a really bad steering u-joint, or a torn rag joint in the linkage. Do a complete inspection I say. Pull the boots back and check the play in the tie-rods, as those tend to get wonky after a while - especially if the boot is torn. The tie rod ends you should be able to inspect by getting under the car. I don't know for sure, but maybe Ed was just saying he replaced the whole rack+tie rods+ends because a JY rack for $15 is cheaper than $100 in tie rods and ends??? GD

They are super easy to rebuild too. Carb cleaner (dip style) and some pipe-cleaners are all you need. I just rebuilt one that was under salt-water for about three days. Runs like a top. Just have to pay real close attention to the small passages - especially the idle jet, and the emulsion tubes. GD

Yes, you should do a compression check first. The heads can be removed without pulling the engine - no problem there at all. Assuming compression is your problem, then you probably did blow a HG..... and just about every time you overheat them you'll warp the heads. If it's the original engine, and you will have the heads off anyway, you might consider a new set of 83+ heads with the larger intake valve's. You can get a set from Aluminium Head Rebuilders here in Portland for $75 each (so their web site claims). Having the heads machined and pressure tested will cost basically the same as a new set. And haveing the larger intake valve is good for another 7 odd horse power or so. I really like the Fel-Pro head gaskets I've been using. I lost all my coolant from a blown hose, and they held just fine after overheating it terribly. Plus they are cheaper than the dealer - you can get em online for $14 each. GD

Assuming you can find a set :-p. Them're even more rare than that wagon he's got. And if you find one of those engines, you might as well drop the whole thing in, with a newer 5 speed. The 85-89 EA71 has the bell-housing like an EA81. Wacky stuff. GD

You are lucky that they slide in easy. Some do, and some don't. That's all I can really say about it. There's no ryhme or reason to it. Different manufactureres of the bearings and the axles I suppose... it doesn't indicate a problem with the bearings tho - just that it happens to be easy on that hub. The axle nut is 36mm. Get a socket - they are only about $5-$8, and the proper torque should be 150 ft/lbs. Over is better than under here. The VW bus rear axles are the same size nut, and are torqued to 250. Use the fattest 1/2" breaker bar you have and reef em down tight. I doubt a crescent would get them tight enough simply because it's not long enough. Unless you are built like a brick buick and can really lay down the smack on it. GD

I can get any of those parts fairly cheap - for example - the yards here charge $10 for the linkage bits. And they are plentiful. But I'm not just going to stockpile them in case someone needs them. If you need something from the no-rust zone, feel free to proposition me. I make trips to the yard fairly frequently, but sometimes I don't hit one for several weeks at a time. Then all of a sudden I'll hit all the yards near me in one day. Depending on how difficult the removal of the part is, and if you want me to make a special trip just for that part, I may want some compensation for my time, but probably not more than a 12 pack or two Unless you want a short block.... then we'll talk.... about me spending my whole darn day getting the silly thing removed, packed, and shipped..... But I'm fully willing and able to pull anything you might need given the proper motivation. GD

PS is good for a lot of stuff. For one thing, the Subaru PS pumps rob almost nothing power wise. One need only turn the pump by hand to see that. For RallyX action, the PS is great because you can control the vehicle with one hand, and have the other free for shifting, hand braking and so forth. This keeps you from haveing to switch tasks with your right hand all the time, and that saves time. For off-road, PS acts as a dampener so the wheel isn't jerked out of your hands, resulting in the vehicle not going where you want, or worse - broken wrists and fingers. And as Jared pointed out, PS makes life on the rocks, and deep ruts actually possible, where it nearly was not before. In short, it helps to better control the vehicle, and that will save you time on the track, and allow you to go slower and be more careful on the trail. That said, it really makes no difference on a stock rig driven on the street. I run without PS on my Brat as my daily driver, and don't really notice the difference. But that's only because I don't put that vehicle in situations where PS would benifit me. I have it on my wagon, and have driven plenty of lifted rigs without it. And both myself, and everyone who has driven my wagon agree that PS is like a whole different world. Driving my wagon off-road isn't "work" like it is on manual rack rigs. It's actually fun! People on here can say whatever they wan't, but you talk to the people who have driven both, and every single one will tell you that PS is the way to go. I should also point out, that if you are comming from manual rack EA82 land, then you have it MUCH better than the EA81's. The EA82 manual rack is FAR superior to the EA81 manual. It turns almost like it IS PS. Credit to Subaru for getting the design that polished. The EA81 manual racks are hell on the rocks. Seriously, I have driven 1960's military trucks with easier manual steering - at least they have a HUGE steering wheel. GD

I'm just down in Portland, and would be happy to do the water pump for a LOT less than your quote. Have them call me if interested. I would say around $100 plus the parts would get the job done.... Rick (503) 880-4084

Weber DGV with electric choke. Often refered to as the DGV, DGEV, 32/36 DGV, etc. Also search for "VW Weber" and just Weber to see what you can find that people have listed badly. I often see people just list "VW beetle Weber carb", and they generally don't command a huge price because people have no way to pull it up in a search. Often they will come attached to the VW manifold even.... in such a case I ask the seller if he's willing to remove that POS for cheaper shipping.... DON'T tell them you want to put it on a Subaru - just say you already have a better manifold.... which is true - it's just not a VW one. heh It's really funny to see a Weber advertised for a Jeep go for 5 times the price of the exact same carb advertised for a VW.... GD

Around here they cut the y-pipes up to remove the cat . If I go to the farther out yards in the country, I can find y-pipes that are complete. Still a pain if I need one. No punctureing of pans here - that's just wrong. They do remove the gas tank and put it in the trunk after draining it. GD

Just watch ebay - you'll find one. I just got an '82 FSM for $13 shipped. GD

'80 or 81 2WD DL - an interesting beast. Don't see many around. Sorry to say that without changing tranny's, you have the biggest engine you can fit. The EA81 never came with the right bell-housing to fit your tranny. If you go to an EA81 5 speed manual (or EA82 for that matter), you could fit the EA81 engine, which is about 80 HP for the later (83+) large valve version. Cam and EA71 pistons, with a Weber, and you are looking at over 100 HP easy. Probably on the order of 110 - 120 depending on a few small details. GD

If dirt somehow made it into the system, or the fluid seals on the rack are leaking, then you could potentially have dirt in the system - which will eventually scratch the cylinder in the rack or destroy the pressure seals and cause pressure leakage side-to-side in the rack. It would feel much the same as a dying pump, but without the associated nasty noises. Not likely tho - Subaru PS racks are extremely tough. Even horribly neglected, they will outlast the engine by a good deal. GD

Not down here - never seen a cut brake line here. GD

There's been several EA81 to EJXX swaps done on this board. There's a Brat in WA that is in the proccess of receiving one right now - his post is around here somewhere. There is a Hatch in Aus that has an EJ in it, and there's a Brat in the marketplace right now with a 90 legacy EJ. The EJ engine will physically fit between the frame rails, as will the EA82 actually. The EJ engines are narrower than the EA82, so no issues there. The radiator is real close to the engine, but that too can be overcome with a low profile fan. The engine mount holes in the cross-member need to be widened a bit, but that's pretty easy. Axle cups have to be swapped around to make axles that properly mate to the trans, and of course the wireing. I have a master plan that includes this as well, but I'll be chopping up a running low mileage '93 Legacy turbo (rare) for it's drivetrain. 160 HP stock - probably be around 200 when I'm done. Possibly more later. GD

Yes - under the drivers side dash kick-panel. Durring the year that I owned one, I never expereienced a climb in RPM's, but when my O2 sensor died, the car wouldn't even idle, so I would say the answer is yes - depending on the nature of the problem. The ASV is the Air Suction Valve. You should have one on the drivers side head. The Silencer is a soft plastic muffler that is fitted to the intake of the ASV. When the ASV's reed valve fails, the hot exhaust will melt the silencer and the melted plastic will be sucked into the carb. GD

You could avoid the curtain problem.... just have them do the whole car! I hear that Rhino is the best, but LineX is probably a good deal better than the DIY stuff. Rhino has a product out now to restore the shine to their product, as it will fade from UV over time. I've heard good reviews on that product as well. GD

Yeah - I've had that happen as well. It's usually accompanied by a distinct change in the sound of the engine, and often you can smell the exhuast fumes from the melted silencer. If you find this to be your problem, you can put a quarter in the pipe leading from the head to the ASV valve itself to block off the system. This will get rid of the noise and fumes, but you would still have to deal with whatever it damaged in the carb. Not a nice problem. I was lucky in that the bits of silencer just jammed my choke plate open so the engine didn't want to start cold. GD

Yes - that is the choke plate. It's controlled by a bi-metallic spring and an electric heater. It's designed to pull off after a specified interval (5-10 minutes I would say). And it should be open at all times after the engine's initial warm up. Under NO circumstances should this plate be closed after the engine has been running for a few minutes. It is used only to enrich the mixture durring startup and cold running. Cold metal in the engine tends to cause the gasoline to condense into droplets.... which don't burn. To check the fast idle cam, you will have to open up the choke housing. Which means grinding the rivets off.... but I'm pretty confident you will find that it's working properly. Your problem is most likely in the feedback system. GD

The choke plate is only closed when the engine is cold, so what you saw is perfectly normal. Choke is still mechanical on your car..... I would first see if the computer is giving you any codes. Note that the codes will be cleared every time you shut the car off, so you will have to drive it for 30 minutes or so, and then check the codes without shutting it off. There is a fast idle cam inside the choke housing itself - if that were to bind up, then possibly it could set the idle high - but it would be more like 1500 - 2000, not 4000. Sounds like a problem with the feedback system - fualty sensor, or fualty control solenoids. Best thing to do, is get a good running Hitachi without all that crap and put it on. Or a Weber, but not everyone can afford those. GD

Well - of course condition is everything - but only IF you are looking for something to restore. After all, this is an 80's soob we are talking about here.... and not even a Brat. It's value on the market is pretty low already. Sounds like he wants 4WD, and a D/R.... if the car really is so nice that it deserves restoration, then it probably should be left the way it is - not hacked up for a 4WD conversion, lifted and then beat up. So..... it really depends on what you want. Do you want something you can have fun in, or something you can restore fairly easily? Or will this be yet another pavement queen, with a lift and meaty tires, that never sees dirt? IF you plan to see dirt flying with this thing, then save your money and put it into the drivetrain and suspension. The exterior will be shot in short order if you go this route, so you might as well start with something less than perfect, but in running condition. You'll pay less, and have more money for the cool off-road parts you're going to need. And don't say "I'm going to take it off-road, but not beat it up..." because that's just the same as a pavement queen now isn't it? If you don't have more body damage after each season, then you aren't trying hard enough - might as well stay on the pavement. And if that's the case.... WTF are you doing with a lift in the first place? GD

Whoops - I should have mentioned those pics are from the USMB. There's lots more interesting EA81 RX pics here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rudy.html GD

Last running 4WD manual 83 wagon I was privy to the sale of: $200 - drove it away. Bad wheel bearing, brakes needed bleeding, and bad tags. Last non-running 4WD manual 83 wagon I know of: Traded a $50 camera for it. Great condition - blown HG. Made a good parts car - might still resurect it at some point. I bought my 84 2WD 5 speed wagon in nearly MINT condition, and low miles (140k) at a dealer auction for $400. Drove it for 2 years before I converted it to 4WD, and in all that time, all I ever did was change the oil. 2WD - not-running - automatic. I probably wouldn't even take it if it were given to me for free unless it was real close. Last 2WD Auto I got, I drove away for $1. Even had good tags. Seriously - pass. As for putting the engine in - not a huge deal, but still a good days work. Conversion to 4WD is another thing entirely. I did that, and was starting with a manual 2WD, so didn't have to deal with the pedal assembly or clutch, and I will NEVER do it again. Too much effort when 4WD cars can be found cheap. Digid-dash = bad juju. GD

Round headlights means it's a Gen 1: '77 - '81 GD