GeneralDisorder

'83 = EA81 = no crank angle sensor. Still - could be the ign. module in the disty.... which basically means find another disty. GD

That is a really bizzare problem! If you have a coil handy, I would try a different one. Perhaps when the starter is drawing current there's not enough left over to fire the coil?? That's a guess tho..... the coils do fail - it's not unheard of. Beyond that.... I would test the elect. ignition module in the disty, as they are reputed to fail on occasion as well. GD

The right turn sloshes the contents of the float bowl to the left, and then when you straighten out, the contents slosh back again..... right into the jets. Crappy design really. My Brat did that to me for a couple months before I figured it out. Count yourself lucky that it restarts right away. Mine would die, and not restart sometimes for hours, and once it took overnight. Luckily, if I made it to the freeway, and it started acting up, I could run it in 3rd gear at 55 MPH and it would keep going till I reached an exit..... ugly problem to have. The Weber's don't have this problem because the Jets are positioned above the bottom of the float bowl. This way junk can't drain into them. GD

Sounds like junk in the float bowl. The Hitachi's jets are down in the bottom, and will act like a drain. When you turn stuff gets sucked into the jets and blocks the fuel from flowing. Either that or the float level isn't adjusted right, or the pump can't keep up with demand (bad pump - blocked lines - clogged filter's - etc). Basically it sounds like a fuel delivery issue, and you should thouroughly go through the entire fuel system top to bottom to locate what's wrong. GD

Please enlighten us - what's the difference on the coupe? This has come up before, and no one has explained it to my satisfaction, and all the coupe owners I've talked to say it's the same. GD

The Fuel pump is not in the same location on all models. Brat's for example are right behind the cab on the drivers side.... and EA82's don't have rear filters. In the case of this 83 wagon tho, you are correct. GD

What I do, is beat them for a bit - 10-15 minutes. If they don't move, then I do what you did - push the stub through. Then I dissasemble the joint, pop the grease seal out of the bottom of the cup, and beat it out from that side... still takes a while, and often I just go to the JY and get another stub and a cup. They don't charge much for them - $5 or so. Torch can work too if you have one - heat up the cup, and before the stub has a chance to equalize in temp, beat on it. That will often break the rust up enough to get them moving. GD

EA82's don't have a rear fuel filter. The one in the engine bay is it. There's a strainer back there somewhere. GD

All EA81 windshields are the same. Although the EA81 line was known as the "Leone" not the Loyale. GD

That's indicative of a bad DOJ - the symptoms tend to come and go as they please. Besides - front end vibration isn't caused by the transmission - it would either be the axles, or the wheels (loose lug nuts - improper balancing, etc). When they vibrate under load, it's usually the axle DOJ. $1200 probably means the trans was rebuilt.... last I checked the going rate for Automatic trans overhaul was around $500 - but including removal and installation I could see $1200. Did they add an extra transmission cooler? If not, it would be a good idea to invest in one. Also have it flushed yearly and change the filter. Those EA81 autos are not known for reliability, but can be alright if you maintain them exceptionally well. As for the 5 speed swap, it's not a direct bolt in, but if you are willing to make some linkage changes, it will go in alright. Since you don't have a flywheel anyway, I would sugest using the EA82 flywheel and clutch setup.... or if you are buying them new (a good idea), get the XT-6 flywheel and clutch. You also have to either fab up the EA82 two-peice driveline, or have a custom driveline made. There's some wireing too if you want the 4WD indicators to work right.... GD

Is the tranny a problem? The one that's in my Brat might be availible in the next month. I'm planning an RX trans swap.... assuming I can find one. GD

Look for a torn innner boot - sounds like a bad DOJ to me. Also check transmission and engine mounts - might have torn one. GD

You mean stuck under the dash? Hehe - yeah that's a possibility. I was stuck for several days once.... luckily I had someone to bring me food and water (J/K). I really need a shop midget for stuff like this.... "hey - run on up that down pipe and check the bearings in the turbo would ya?" LOL GD

If you look across the spring washer, there is slight bubble to it - like the surface of a lens. The bubble goes out towards the nut.... GD

I edited my post above with a couple additions you could make.... GD

Lookin GOOD! Couple of additions to it tho: 1. It should be emphisized that the washer between the axle nut and the conical ring is a spring washer, and only goes on one way... 2. Getting the hub off is easiest if you just smack the end of the axle with a copper or brass hammer.... 3. You should never have to pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle.... you can always put the key in the ign. and turn the wheel some if you need to tho. 4. Axles don't always go into the bearings as easily as your's did. Especially if the bearings are new also. Sometimes a LOT of force is required. A couple large flathead screwdrivers are usually my choice.... and some brute force and ignorance. This needs to go in the repair manual - Shadow.... where are you? GD

If you had the oil pump off, I would have it off again and make sure it's properly sealed, and the o-rings aren't buggered. Since the engine had no oil in it, you should remove the spark plugs, and fast-crank it till the oil pressure registers on the guage..... this ensures both that the oil pump is working, and that the guage system is also working. It's not wise to start an engine without oil. That could be the end of it - and possibly the source of your "knock". Chewed up bearings can happen quick without oil. GD

The manual I have says the 1980 model year was when the water passage switched. This coincides with the introduction of the EA81 (which has always had the water passage in the block) so it makes sense from that perspective. Addmitedly, this manual is a Clymer, so it could be wrong. But it would be tough to prove one way or the other as many cars have had their engines replaced with ones from other cars, etc. It's a crap shoot as to what you will find under any given hood anway. GD

Well - it actually is easier to change just the boots as well - you can change the boots without pulling the axle. Just pull the inner joint, and dissasemble it on the car - slip the new boots on and reassemble the inner joint - if you had a lift, you wouldn't even need to remove the wheel!! But if his axle is clicking already, then it's a gonner - new boots won't help. GD

Where did you get this 9:1 block? Turbo's were 7.7:1, carbs were 8.5:1, and SPFI was 9.5:1.... WJM tried a 9.5:1 turbo - didn't last long. Do a search and you'll find his threads on it I'm sure. Not a good idea with the stock turbo setup it seems. As for cam's - Delta Cam in Tacoma can grind whatever you want. Several people here on the board have Delta cam's of various grinds in their EA82's GD

Well - that's generally done with EA81's, but if you remove enough off the front (radiator, etc), you might be able to do it with an EA82. I'm not sure there is enough room tho. Also remember the EA82 is quite a good deal heavier than the EA81, so manhandling it around like that won't be easy. It's not easy with an EA81 really, but it will just get you by if you don't have a lift. At any rate, in order to get the engine to come forward you also have to drop the exhaust, and unbolt the engine mounts - then jack the engine up till the mounts clear the cross-member. Then you can slide it off the engine, and slowly lower it down till you can get the clutch out. GD

Looks like you are in my area..... hard to say what your noise could be, but it definately could be exhaust. If you brought it by some time I'm sure I could diagnose it pretty easily. Drop me a PM if your interested. RitchieRich here on the board has a shop in Portland too.... if you want to just pay someone to fix it. GD

Magic. GD

It's not that simple I'm afraid. It could be a number of things, but check to make sure you have all the air from the system before you suspect other problems. There are three places that the coolant can leak and not make a puddle on the ground. 1. Intake manifold gaskets. 2. throttle body base gaskets. 3. head gaskets. It's a closed system, and if the radiator is full (of coolant - not air), the level in the overflow tank should only go up, not down. It will go up when the system over pressurizes, and it will go down when the system returns to normal. It should not drop below the level indicated on the side of the tank. This indicates a leak. However - the fact that you bring this problem to us after having recently worked on your cooling system exposes the possibility that there is either a lack of understand about the system's operating principles, or that you did something incorrectly. It's difficult to say from afar if this is the case, but I suspect it strongly. I would not jump to the conclusion that you have a blown head gasket - that's just silly. Especially since it's still running. I would buy a new cap as well - that is a good idea for one place to start. GD

Well - I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop. If it's still cooling well, then maybe it just needs a seam re-soldered. They can pressure test it, and like I said - as long as it's cooling efficiency is still up there, it's going to be cheaper to have it gone through by a shop. GD