GeneralDisorder

I have had good luck with the GCK brand joints from Autozone. They are only $90, and have a lifetime warrantee. Plus they are NEW not remaned. And they are TRUE 4WD axles, not 2WD axles (smaller diameter shaft and smaller joint). I must say however that my friend bought a set and had serious vibration issues with his - not sure if it was just one of them or both. Others on the board, and myself have had good luck tho. And of course you can always return them. GD

Nope. GD

If the drivetrain is bound up, taking it out of 4WD (with the pushbutton) won't have any effect until the drivetrain is unbound again. Pavement + high speed + 4WD = good way to snap an axle. GD

How about making the trim strips as well, and selling them as a package deal? It wouldn't drive the shipping up at all I wouldn't think, and it would give the prospective buyer a complete overhaul package for their tailgate.... Also, if you could design the strip so that it does not need the plastic gizmo's to install it, that would be cool. Those are the reason the strip is so fragile to begin with. GD

Transmission does not mate to an EJ engine without an adaptor, so you either need an adaptor plate, or you need to transplant the EJ transmision as well. You can use a non-turbo legacy trans from a 2WD legacy. Of course none of this stuff will fit without a lot of modification...... GD

The dual range has three positions for the 4WD shift lever - 2WD, 4WD Hi, and 4WD Low. The Low range adds a 1.45:1 modifier to the output from the trans, making all gears lower. Think of the transfer case on a truck - same thing, but it's part of the tranny. I don't understand what you mean by "locking" 4WD - some EA82's had a lockable center diff, but nothing like that ever came on an EA81..... GD

I have no idea what the bolt pattern on the CW single barrel is. You're best bet is to get a Hitachi manifold instead - they are plentiful, and you can just grab an adaptor for $25 from bow-wow, instead of bugging cameron about making one for the CW manifold. Also we don't know for sure what carb you have - you need to have carfreak check to make sure of what carb you have on there now. We can't tell you the bolt pattern unless we know what carb you have now can we? GD

There were 5 tranny's availible for EA81's: 4 speed single range 4WD manual (3.9 diffs) 4 speed dual range 4WD manual (3.9 diffs) 3 speed single range 4WD automatic (3.7 diffs) 3 speed 2WD automatic (3.7 diff) 5 speed 2WD manual (3.7 diff) GD

All the EA81 crank pulley's I've seen were three groove (including the one on my '85 Brat). EA81's had up to 3 belts - Alternator/water pump, Power Steering, and A/C...... that being said, I know that PS wasn't offered until the 81 model year, so an EA81 from an 80 Automatic (only came in Auto's that year) might be different - I don't know that I've ever seen one of those personally. GD

Could just be that the axle stripped it's splines on the CV joint. Check to see if the axles are spinning with it in gear (raise the car off the ground first, so it can't possibly drive anywhere accidentaly). I've never done an axle replacement on a Justy, but from doing other transversely mounted FWD cars, and lots of normal Subaru's, it's probably not real hard. GD

Looks aftermarket whatever it is - with that silver label and all. GD

LSD's have been an option since the EA81 RX days (which incidentally, had rear discs and LSD's - but we didn't get EA81 RX's here in the US). They *could* be found under nearly anything of that vintage with a 3.7 rear end, but are most commonly found in 85-89 RX's, and in the Full Time 4WD 5 speed Turbo models of the later 80's vintage. Brat's most definately never had them stock, and being that only the 4WD Automatics had the proper ratio rear end for the LSD, I doubt it was even an option at the dealer. Although one could certainly bolt it right in. GD

There is no difference (between the carbs, or the bolt pattern), and the guy making your adaptor plate already knows the bolt pattern of a Weber. He probably wants to know the bolt pattern of your existing carb, which I think is a carter/weber single barrel. Ask carfreak to ID it for you. As for pro's/con's, there really aren't many, because the type of choke you use depends on what you want. Personally I like the electric choke because it's easier to install, and less messy. The water choke is much more accurate, as it's warming curve is controlled by the engine's temp, and not some arbitrary heating element. Other than that, the carbs are identical. GD

Unburnt fuel is not the problem - leaks in your exhuast, and a crappy cat are. You won't get rid of the unburnt fuel - at least not with a Hitachi. My Brat had the exact same problem, and it was a bad cat, and exhaust leaks combined with the ASV's that caused it. Mine was so loud and hard, that it blew about 5 fist sized holes in the muffler. Once I repaired the leaks and replaced the cat (used y-pipe), it passed emmissions no problem. GD

I've put an EA81 FWD 5 speed into a 4WD body - it goes right in. There's no clearance issues like going the other way, and the stud for the shifter assembly is already present. No problem at all. It will even work with the same clutch, as the splines are the same too. You can just leave the rear end - just unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. GD

Yes, there would probably be a demand if the price was right - I know I would probably buy a couple - I have at least 3 or 4 tailgates that could be resurected with a new skin or lots of body work otherwise. But there is more demand for the chrome strip that goes on top of the tailgate.... I've seen the strip go for twice what a tailgate goes for. GD

Qman has XT-6 Seats in his Big Brat, and Isuzu Impulse seats in his street Brat. The Impulse seats are good for us tall folk apparently. GD

Try rocking the car back and forth. My Brat sticks in 4th now and then - I have to slip the clutch and get it moving just a bit to get it to come out. Only does it when you are completely stopped, so I have learned to take it out of 4th before stopping. GD

The flywheel may have been turned too deep - you might consider just getting a new flywheel - they aren't that expensive. A junk yard model would probably work too. I generally don't resurface mine unless they have grooves or pitting. I rought them up with a bit of sandpaper and put em back. GD

I forgot about the coversion, but it's still a 28 HP increase over even the larger valve EA81. And that's using stock heads. That seems like a healthy inrcrease to me, and more power than the EA81T had.... GD

Those gears run in oil, so the whole engine is suspect I would say. Although you have to wonder why that gear wore out - lack of oil perhaps? Maybe it you'll get lucky. I wouldn't put another cam in ther till I figured out why it failed. Sounds like lack of lubrication - bad oil pressure? Clogged oil supply lines? GD

Yes, in fact, there is. Here is the spec sheet for a JDM EA81 RX which clearly shows the bore and stroke, displacement, compression, HP and torque.... This guy would blow the doors off an EA81 Turbo BTW, which was only rated at 95 HP. Then there was this bad boy, which appears to have some ugly dual port heads on it with some serious looking carbs: (Notice the cool snorkels? Probably a dust thing...) If Subaru could get 110 with single ports, and RAM can get 140 with their ported stock heads, then I'm betting this mother with it's custom heads was even better.... GD

Maybe I should say it again - the JDM Dual Carb EA81 was rated at 110 HP. They have 9.5:1 compression, a different cam, different intake, and different exhaust - same heads tho. The EA81 race engines were even more burly - sporting crazy dual carbs mounted stright to the head's with no manifold. I have never seen a spec sheet on one of these "safari" engines, but it's got to be pretty wicked. Starting with an EA81 hydro lifter engine which is rated at 80 HP, you increase the compression with EA71 pistons, and decked heads (.020). Install a Delta cam, increase the carburation and the exhaust capacity, and you will have essentially what the JDM dual carb engines had.... probably 100 - 110 HP. RAM claims 140 with all these things, and the addition of slightly better flowing heads (stock heads that have been dual-ported). Qman's Brat can tear it up - I hear it can easily keep up with a modified EA82 Turbo wagon..... and it still has the 4 speed. I've seen it in action at the Rally-X. GD

hhhmmm - what email are you using? I'm not getting them - try this one: cropperr@gmail.com GD

If it's anything but a Brat (and probably even then) they are nearly worthless even when in excelent condition. I would say it's not worth your time. My friend just bought a running driving 83 wagon for example for $200. A stock wagon would be highly unlikely to bring more than $1000 even in near mint condition - they are at the bottom of their value. Buy something else, and use that one for parts - especially since it's 2WD. That makes it worth even less than nothing. GD