GeneralDisorder

Your bunghole? Man, that's more info than I needed... GD

Fuel pump doesn't have enough pressure. The Weber needs 2.5 to 3 psi (some books sugest as much as 4 psi). The stock pump is only capable of 1 - 2 psi, and that's when they are new. I would imagine that a 20 year old pump is probably putting out the bare minimum or possibly less. The lack of enough fuel pressure is keeping your float bowl too low because the pressure isn't enough to overcome the spring loaded release mechanism. Thus your problem on sharp turns - it's leaning out the mixture on you I would guess.... GD

Yep - that means I have a lifted rig, and you don't.... it would seem that you speak from your bunghole then wouldn't it? GD

That's a very bold statement my friend. Ask around - I'm sure someone will be willing to tell you how big of a "wussie" I am. I have 3.5" of lift in the front with my suspension all the way up. I have 28" tires, and they still rub in turns - not to mention when I hit a bump in the trail. Where can you trim to make this possible? I would really like to see it. The floorpan sheet metal rubs on the tire - if you cut that out then you will have no floor in your car, and nothing for the door hinge to attach to..... And where is your lifted rig? I see no experience in these matters from your side either.... Seriously - you don't know what you are saying. GD

We are all guilty of it sometimes. It's cool. I've done it myself. I just try to stay out of the EA82 stuff personally, unless it's general enough that it would apply to any car. There are a lot of things automotive that are applicable to nearly any brand or model of car. I know a little about EA82's - mostly engine stuff tho. For example I'm going to be putting SPFI on my wagon's EA81 - so I've done a bit of research on that specific system. I've never tried to lift one however, so I don't usually comment on stuff relating to that. GD

It's probably pretty much the same - you just weld the spider gears to each other. 4 welds on each side of the assembly - 8 total. I thought I had a picture around here - but I can't seem to find it. GD

We all make mistakes, I just wanted to point out that EA81's and EA82's are considerably different in some ways. You can draw parrallels in some cases, and it's ok to do so if no one else has already offered the information - but always add the discaimer that your information may not be the same since the vehicle is older/newer. But when people like SubaruBrat and others who have done extensive modifications with EA81's say it won't work..... well you get the idea. I know you just want to help, but wouldn't you feel bad if you guy bought the 31's and then couldn't get them on? GD

A welder, and a 12mm or 14mm (can't recall which) socket to remove the rear cover of the diff. 10mm, 17mm, and 19mm sockets to drop the diff from the hanger, and you *could* do it without removing the axles, but a 3/16" pin punch to remove the axle and pull the diff out from under the car is a good idea. If you are lifted, you'll want to pull an axle each time you go on pavement - the stress from the bigger tires can break the axles pretty easily. On a stock rig your tires will chirp around corners, and you axles won't last as long, but I doubt you would break one. GD

Yes - the guages aren't accurate, but what troubles me about your description is the change in the guage while driving. It sounds, from your description that the change is fairly rapid? Some change is normal due to the oil getting thinner as it heats up, but you said you stopped and it returned to normal, then dropped again? How long were you stopped? Did it have a chance to cool off durring that period? GD

Dude - if you want some assistance with this thing - contact me. Hehe. First - that carb needs a rebuild, or needs to go away completely.... sounds like the idle circuit is jacked up. Either that or you have a vacuum leak. You can spray around with carb cleaner to locate leaks..... I've got an ignition switch with a key - $10 and it's yours. The key won't match your doors, but I'm betting you don't care.... I wouldn't charge you at all for it except they are hard to find... You may need an oil pump reseal - costs about $6 for the seal kit, and takes about 30 minutes to do. Really helps with the oil pressure. You might also need a new sending unit - they go bad pretty frequently. About $35 new.... GD

You sir, have NO IDEA what you are talking about. 31's with a 3" lift on an EA81 is basically impossible. You would need at least a 4" in the front to clear a 30, and even then you would have to beat the fender wells to death. I beat the fender wells so hard on my wagon that I couldn't close the doors (pucker factor = 7) and had to jack them back up with a floor jack to get them realigned. And that was just to clear a 28 with 3.5" of lift in the front. EA82's are known to fit larger tires - even stock - than EA81's. There are people running 27's with no lift at all on EA82's - just a lot of trimming. Just because it works on some EA82, DOES NOT MEAN it's anything like that on an EA81. You keep making this assumption, and I'm getting sick of it. Leave the EA81 info for those of us that actually own them. Stick to what you know like SubaruBrat sugested. GD

Disty bushings. There is no fundamental difference with the EA81 and EA82 carbed disty's - other than the mounting and the drive gear. Get it fixed before the reluctor smashes into the pickup and destroy's it...... pop the cap and check for play. Although you may not notice much. Your choke wire coming loose definately can blow a fuse - had that happen to me on the way back from WCSS5 - on the EA81's it's the same fuse as the tail lights...... Probably just conincidence that your noticed the two together. GD

HG's from Fel-Pro are $14 each from: www.pickproparts.com I've bought from them several times and had good experiences. Carefully check out your intake manifold gaskets, and your carb base gaskets - they leak often, causeing a loss of coolant and cooling system pressure. I blew a heater hose on my Brat shortly after doing the HG's on it. The Fel-Pro gaskets held. I lost EVERY drop of coolant, the guage pegged, and it was pinging so badly that I couldn't go over 35 MPH. It was 90 degrees that day, and I drove about 2 miles with NO coolant. If you had your engine so hot it wouldn't run then it's probably toast. Either the HG's are blown or the heads are cracked. I would lay money on it..... As for your intake manifold - try to get it off, but take your time. If you can't get the bolts out it's better to cut the heads off them and slip the manifold off the bolts. This way you can get some penetrating oil (not WD40 - something like PB Blaster) on there. Let it sit for a day or two and spray it down several times a day. Nothing good will come of a broken intake bolt, and it's better to cut the heads off than try to remove them as they always seem to break off nearly flush with the head. At least if you cut the heads off and slip the manifold off, you will be able to use vise-grips to turn them out once the penetrating oil has got them loose. Get another manifold if you can. I have one you could have for free but I'm in OR.... GD

Yeah - the back pressure from a clogged exhaust could account for the tendancy to idle for a short while, and then choke out. I had a very similar situation to Qman - I replaced the y-pipe on my Brat from a vehicle that had a blown HG, and had shot milkshake all over everything - including down the exhaust. It smoked for a good 30 minutes or more - filled up the whole neighborhood, and people were comming outside to see what was on fire..... GD

Well - white smoke certainly could be coolant. Is it losing coolant? Can you run it long enough to see if the coolant level goes down? A coolant leak big enough to cause a billowing cloud of white smoke shouldn't be terribly hard to locate...... intake manifold gaskets are a good thing to check, but if you don't find it there, check the oil to see if any coolant is mixing with it... that would indicate a HG problem. GD

What car? Model and Year? Fuel Injected, Carbed, Turbo?? What color is the smoke? GD

Well - there is more to it than just some fuses. I'm not the one to ask about an EA82, but on EA81's there is a Fuel Pump Control Unit that will cease to function unless the engine is running..... I'm sure that a similar system is used to accomplish this safety feature on your rig. You should aquire a manual with the proper wireing diagram for the fuel pump circuit. GD

On EA81's there's a bell behind the glove box.... just thought I would toss that out there for completeness - in case someone were searching for how to disable it... :-p GD

83 should have a VR in the alternator. They switched to interally regulated Alts in 82. The external ones are really obvious - being located in a big round blue container on the drivers side of the engine bay...... That picture looks very much like the ones that are inside the Alt. Good luck taking it apart - I've never been succesful. I usually just get another Alt from the junk yard. EA81, EA81T, EA82, and EA82T alts are all the same (well -the internally regulated ones anyway), and will swap around with no modifications. There are usually a lot of them to be found in the junk yards for cheap ($15 around here...) GD

When I did the gasket on my Brat, I looked at the Fel-Pro instructions, and they say to use whatever the vehicle manufacturere sugests. I looked in the FSM and it said to use some sort of head gasket sealer. I didn't use anything, and it's been great, but the manual does sugest a sealer: "Apply head gasket sealant THREE BOND 1201 (004403008) or DOW CORNING #92-024 evenly to both sides of the new cylinder head gasket with a brush." Addmitedly this is for EA81's and EA81T's, but I don't see why it would be different for an EA82T.... GD

The Justy isn't fully a soob - thus your confusion I suppose. It was apparently a joint project by Subaru and Isuzu..... the source of the weird lug pattern possibly. It also came with 12" wheels originally. Some of the later ones had 13's tho. GD

I've heard you can do a lot with about 5 or 10 thousand of those little estes rocket engines..... GD

Yep - taprack has the right idea. That's what I did. That's the procudure that's been floating around for a while. You can also take the hubs to a machine shop and have them drilled for 6 lugs - they can even spline the holes for the lugs..... Make sure there are not raised bumps where you need to drill on the rim. I've encountered some steel wheels that can't be drilled because the surface isn't flat between the existing holes. GD

You have to add studs (4) (and remove 2 of the existing ones), or drill two new holes in the rim. Easier to drill holes in the rim IMO. But either way works. GD

You try a dealership? GD