GeneralDisorder

I would rather you talk with Nick, as the deal was with HIM, and the only reason I had any input was because he owed me, and we thought if he could get parts for me via HIS deal with you then we might be able to work something out. But you don't have what I need - you only have about half of it. My stipulation from the beggining was for a complete setup from a running car. You told Nick it was complete except for the harness, and that it came from a runner - I was willing to compromise on that one peice, but without the harness, ECU, and disty, and the fact that you have never seen it run, and don't know the condition of any of the sensors or injector I can't see that it's worth $75. I also don't like that I'm hearing conflicting information from you, and Nick. Maybe there is confusion on his part, but I was made to understand that you told him it was complete (except for the harness) and that it came from a runner - then I was told by you that you never saw it run because the car had no disty. So which is it? I'm no idiot John..... I can get everything I need from a yard for that much, but I want to wait till I find the right system from a running car. If I have to buy a whole car to get it, I will. I'm not in the market for equipment that I don't know the condition of or have a guarantee for... If you still want the tires, Nick might sell them to you for the full $250, but you will have to talk with him. I think there is another interested party as well, but I'm not sure. GD

As I recall, that guy has a couple of them - he has a white one that looks bone stock from the outside, and it's even a bit "used" looking. hehe GD

Nick didn't email you? Check your email - you'll find a full report there I suspect. GD

If it runs, then you probably do not have a blown HG. Is it losing coolant rapidy? White smoke? Coolant in your oil? The engine would run poorly if at all, and you would certainly have water where it shouldn't be.... My guess is that your guage or sending unit are not accurate. If you have replaced the radiator, thermostat, and radiator cap, then your cooling system is working properly. It takes a LOT to blow a HG on an EA81 usually. I have flogged the one in my wagon mercilessly and it comes back for more. Usually runs around the 3/4 mark when I'm off-roading. And my Brat is about the same.... I suspected the HG's and replaced them myself - since then I have had it hotter than I ever thought possible (blew a heater hose and lost ALL my coolant), and it still runs fine. It was so hot that it would not go over 30 MPH because the pinging was so bad, and the engine was smokeing from cooking the oil and dirt off the block.... GD

Oven cleaner will actaully etch aluminium - I doubt you want it in your engine. GD

I have never had the brass hammer fail, or damage a thread. I have had blocks of wood shatter, and I've damaged threads, and destroyed axle nuts with regular hammer's. The 2 acceptable ways are the brass hammer, and the VW tool that Mick described. I would still use a brass hammer on the VW tool so as not to damge the tool, and that fact seems to make the tool irrelevant it would seem - at least in my case. Not to mention it's another extra tool I don't need, and the brass hammer I can use for other stuff. The VW axle nut removal tool however is a MUST - it's for the rear nut on pre-'68 bugs and busses. Works wonders for removing axle nuts. As to why I would want to save the axle.... well the inner joint is rebuildable and I frequently do rebuild them, or reboot them (did one yesterday in fact). And the other reason is that maybe he simply wanted to replace the disc, or have it turned.... removal of the axle wasn't the question - it was how to loosen the hub and disc..... GD

Yeah - what you say is true - and it very well could be something else. That's just what happened to me. Mine would come and go, as the junk floated in and out of the jet. hehe. GD

Sounds exactly like what mine did when the primary jet was partially clogged. Either that or fuel filters. The jets can be removed from the bottom of the carb. Because of the design of the Hitachi, the jets act like a drain in the bottom of the float bowl and it sucks any impurities right into the jet..... GD

To put some of this to rest.... 1. Yes - he is the person you think he is John. The whole deal sounds pretty damn rotten to me, and I am not speaking to any of you anymore. I can't tell who's telling the truth, and who's lying, and who did what when. I'm out of it (I guess I was never in it really, other than having been a "customer" of both parties, but anyway...), and You, Kurt and Brett can go at it.... but please resolve this off the board. It's simply confusing to everyone who is not aware of the situation. Hell - I doubt I'm fully aware of it. I'm betting that everyone is stretching the truth and I simply don't care anymore. I'll be taking my business elsewhere in the future because I don't like buying potentially illegal products from potentially dishonest people. 2. KP is the guy's initials - has nothing to do with PK. GD says "Buy PK" GD

Jeezuz? Who built that crap? Looks unsafe..... GD

Yes - clean it. It reduces combustion temps, and will prevent burned plugs and valves. The rubber hose that connects it with the anti-afterburn valve (if equiped) gets hard from age, and can get clogged with carbon too. If the valve gets really dirty it can stick in the open position and cause a huge vacuum leak..... GD

I use a copper or brass hammer, and smack the axle - this slightly pushes the axle out of the knuckle, but it will suck back in once you torque the axle nut. I highly reccomend a soft faced hammer for this type of work if you do it often (I can't even count the number of axles I've done...), and they are only about $10-$12 at Harbor Freight.. GD

Same problem here - never have figured it out. I swapped the cluster and it didn't help, so it's not in there..... GD

Pull the cluster, and yank the bulb out. Never have to worry about it again..... GD

Man - I must have been tired - what I meant to say is that there are no differences in the part numbers for each model..... ie, there is no distinction made between a cam destined for a Brat, versus one meant for a coupe. The various models of engine's have different numbers as Qman pointed out..... I would guess the EA71 and the EA71 hydro-lifter have different cams as well. GD

Well - I can say that the parts manuals I have make no distinction between Brat's and any other EA81.... there is only a single part number listed for the cam, for both the EA71 and the EA81. GD

The more grease the better! It becomes a lot thinner when the bearings heat up, so you want as little air in there as possible. GD

The steel they are stamped from is extremely thin compared to a truck rim - I think it would be foolish to use a spare rim when perfectly good rims can be had at the junk yard for nearly nothing. Lots of people have tried this, and there's a reason you don't see people using them. They bend easily - no good for off-roading. Get some chevy or yota 6 lug steels and drill them. I did mine with a hand drill.... really not hard at all. Usually rims are $10 or less at used tire places, or junk yards. GD

If the engine is deiseling (still trying to run after being shut down), it could be a problem with the anti-deiseling solenoid on the carb. Could also be an indication that the engine is running too hot, or the timing is off. Weber's do not have anti-deiseling solenoids, and with proper tuning can be made to run without deiseling except in the hottest weather..... a good cooling system, and proper timing is key. If it's just vibration, have a look at the engine mounts - the rubber int them is pretty thick, and they don't usually go bad, but one could be loose..... GD

No problem guys - look for more pages of this quality in the near future. Mostly geared towards the EA81 off-roading crowd, but I'm sure a lot of it will be applicable in a generic way. Check out our pictures and video's too: www.Atlas4x4.com GD

I'm working on a bunch of tech pages at Atlas4x4.com - this is just a preview, but since you are looking for what I just completed a page on, here ya go.... http://home.comcast.net/~cropperr/axle_rebuilding.html GD

It also requires a different manifold, and some of the carter/weber's were feedback...... I don't know enough to say if this one was or wasn't because as Ed pointed out - they suck. Really tough to find parts for too. GD

Hhhmmm - a picture perhaps? GD

Not on a solid lifter. These clearances are done cold. At operating temp, there really shouldn't be any clearance to speak of. Expansion of the valve train components wouldn't change with a different cam grind. But one must ask why you would have a cam ground for an EA81 solid lifter? Why not get a hydro lifter EA81 to begin with? GD

EA81 solid lifter. GD