GeneralDisorder

It's very simple - just unscrew the pipe, drop a quarter in there, and screw it back on. Done. Plugged. Getting them off is a PITA - best to use vice grips to loosen them as the torx bit tends to slip. (talking EA81 spacers here) If you can find the EA81 Hitachi Feedback cars, they had a blank spacer on one head.... GD

100 is easy from an EA81 - can get that without RAM's help. The Dual Carb JDM EA81 was 110, with stock heads. GD

It's only about $1k for a set of heads - not that bad considering. And I think you can get their complete rebuild kit with the heads for $2k or $3k. And as far as airplane stuff goes - that entirely depends on the cam grind you use. Delta can grind anything you want. You need the better flowing heads to get to 140 HP. The 2300 will fit - especially with a lift. I have seen one stuffed into a Sami.... Notice that it's a ROCK CRAWLER - no mud. Dry rocks. Talk to Chef Tim about timing belt tensioners and mud..... Not on any wheeler I will ever own that's for sure. I know what muddy water does to bearings - tell my last alternator and my last two power steering idlers that mud is cool with bearings.... jeez. GD

Sounds like you ripped the gear from the disty shaft - that's about the only way it could be off the way you say it is. That's not good. I hope for your sake the gear comes out when you pull the disty. Just a guess, but bad bushings in the disty probably either caused the disty to bind and the cam sheared the pin on the gear, or the magnetic pickup smashed into the rotor on the shaft and jammed it resulting in the same thing - sheared pin on the gear. When you get it out of there, check the condition of the gear teeth on the cam as well - might have ripped those up too. Hard to tell. GD

EJ's are good engines to be sure, but I question anyone who uses a timing belt equiped engine off-road. The mud, grit and water factor is just too dangerous for belts and their tensioners. While this may indeed be a cheaper option than building a high output EA81, and probably fine for something like a rock crawler that won't see much mud, I would personally go with a built EA81, or a larger pushrod engine like the Chevy V6 that Lumpycam put into Unhatched at first, and now has put in his lifted Gen 1... The 2.3L Ford 4 cylinder would be a decent choice as well, and no more expensive than an EJ.... especially since you need a custom adaptor anyway. The 2300 Ford's can put out around 200 HP with a little work. If you are hard core Subaru, then go with an EA81, and build it hot. 110 - 120 HP isn't out of the question with a little work, and if you want to spend a little more, you could get a complete rebuild Kit from RAM performance and get 140 HP using their heads.... That's as much as an EJ22. GD

Yeah - chicks find the Brat to be "cute", which is not a bad thing. I find that my lifted wagon does a better job tho - it does attract more chicks, but unfortunately it attracts men too.... some of the questions are just stupid - "Do you take this off road?" as I'm pulling into a gas station dripping with mud. GD

Locksmith. They make keys. For cars. GD

^ what he said. Bounce has nothing to do with the springs - actually it does - it means they are good. That's what springs do BTW - they bounce. GD

Unless you are doing a full restoration, they are quite scary to ride in (especially if you are 6' 2" like me), and take up a lot of room in the bed. Not having them doesn't seem to detract greatly from the value of a Brat either, as they aren't terribly hard to find. They show up on ebay quite a bit... the going rate is pretty steep tho as people like to install in them into regular trucks too. Expect to pay $200 or more for a complete system including belts.... GD

I think all years of jump seats are the same.... the seats were only installed on USDM Brat's, so I think they didn't ever change them..... GD

The ASV's on the EA82's are different, but on the EA81's I use quarters to block off the valves - the added air from the ASV system mixes with the unburnt fuel and ignites from the hot exhaust. You have a leaky exhaust basically, and if you want to fix it proper, then you should replace your y-pipe. After the y, you can have lots of leaks and it won't matter much. GD

The headlight buckets in the sheet metal under all that stuff are different, and in order to do the swap properly, you would have to weld in the front end from either an 80, 81, 82, 83/84 STD or DL, 85-87 DL Brat, or 85-89 STD and DL Hatch's. There are at least three distinct styles of dual headlights - two styles of round, and one square, but some if not all have different sheet metal for where the headlights mount. The later STD hatch may be the same for sheet metal, I'm not sure as I haven't looked under one yet..... It's no direct bolt on from what I've seen, and the quad's give far better light output anyway. If you want to attempt it, I have a complete dual headlight grill and marker light setup I would part with.... As for interior - the STD and DL's have less amenities, but are still the same plastic. Pretty durable actually. As for the idle - sounds like it's time for a carb rebuild - you can try adjusting it, but it probably won't do anything. The cable's stick sometimes, or the choke mechanism isn't working right..... basically the Hitachi's are a little weird like that, and you'll just have to live with it unless you want to rebuild it, or put on a weber. GD

That is the anti-afterburn valve - supposed to prevent backfireing. Remove and file under R for round file..... doesn't do isht as far as I can tell. GD

So what happens if you mount the cone filter right off the snorkel? I'm interested to know because I plan on doing a full snorkel as well.... so now to determine if it's the snorkel adaptor, or the pipe you have off the adaptor? GD

That is a BIG hole, and the difficulty is that it lies over the frame rail on the passenger side. We certainly cannot cut that from any Brat that is ever going to be road worthy again, as it will destroy the structural integrity of the car. I do know a yard with a couple of Brats down here on OR that you could get that from, but I think your best bet is to see if Ken (Qman) can hook you up, as he lives much closer than I do. It's a 3 hour drive to me, and another 2 hours to the Brats that I know of.... If he can't, then I will try. My associate has reviewed the pictures of carfreak's Brat, and I think it's safe to say that he want's it intact as far as that part of the bed is concered. I don't have much say in it, as it's him that's paying for the trip to get it, and it's his Brat as far as I'm concerned. My finacial intrest in this deal is minimal, and I'm only along cause I'm his mechanic, and friend. I'll take a closer look at your damage and give you a better idea of the work involved when I get up there on Thursday (that's the plan right now - Thursday around 5 PM). GD

I would rather you talk with Nick, as the deal was with HIM, and the only reason I had any input was because he owed me, and we thought if he could get parts for me via HIS deal with you then we might be able to work something out. But you don't have what I need - you only have about half of it. My stipulation from the beggining was for a complete setup from a running car. You told Nick it was complete except for the harness, and that it came from a runner - I was willing to compromise on that one peice, but without the harness, ECU, and disty, and the fact that you have never seen it run, and don't know the condition of any of the sensors or injector I can't see that it's worth $75. I also don't like that I'm hearing conflicting information from you, and Nick. Maybe there is confusion on his part, but I was made to understand that you told him it was complete (except for the harness) and that it came from a runner - then I was told by you that you never saw it run because the car had no disty. So which is it? I'm no idiot John..... I can get everything I need from a yard for that much, but I want to wait till I find the right system from a running car. If I have to buy a whole car to get it, I will. I'm not in the market for equipment that I don't know the condition of or have a guarantee for... If you still want the tires, Nick might sell them to you for the full $250, but you will have to talk with him. I think there is another interested party as well, but I'm not sure. GD

As I recall, that guy has a couple of them - he has a white one that looks bone stock from the outside, and it's even a bit "used" looking. hehe GD

Nick didn't email you? Check your email - you'll find a full report there I suspect. GD

If it runs, then you probably do not have a blown HG. Is it losing coolant rapidy? White smoke? Coolant in your oil? The engine would run poorly if at all, and you would certainly have water where it shouldn't be.... My guess is that your guage or sending unit are not accurate. If you have replaced the radiator, thermostat, and radiator cap, then your cooling system is working properly. It takes a LOT to blow a HG on an EA81 usually. I have flogged the one in my wagon mercilessly and it comes back for more. Usually runs around the 3/4 mark when I'm off-roading. And my Brat is about the same.... I suspected the HG's and replaced them myself - since then I have had it hotter than I ever thought possible (blew a heater hose and lost ALL my coolant), and it still runs fine. It was so hot that it would not go over 30 MPH because the pinging was so bad, and the engine was smokeing from cooking the oil and dirt off the block.... GD

Oven cleaner will actaully etch aluminium - I doubt you want it in your engine. GD

I have never had the brass hammer fail, or damage a thread. I have had blocks of wood shatter, and I've damaged threads, and destroyed axle nuts with regular hammer's. The 2 acceptable ways are the brass hammer, and the VW tool that Mick described. I would still use a brass hammer on the VW tool so as not to damge the tool, and that fact seems to make the tool irrelevant it would seem - at least in my case. Not to mention it's another extra tool I don't need, and the brass hammer I can use for other stuff. The VW axle nut removal tool however is a MUST - it's for the rear nut on pre-'68 bugs and busses. Works wonders for removing axle nuts. As to why I would want to save the axle.... well the inner joint is rebuildable and I frequently do rebuild them, or reboot them (did one yesterday in fact). And the other reason is that maybe he simply wanted to replace the disc, or have it turned.... removal of the axle wasn't the question - it was how to loosen the hub and disc..... GD

Yeah - what you say is true - and it very well could be something else. That's just what happened to me. Mine would come and go, as the junk floated in and out of the jet. hehe. GD

Sounds exactly like what mine did when the primary jet was partially clogged. Either that or fuel filters. The jets can be removed from the bottom of the carb. Because of the design of the Hitachi, the jets act like a drain in the bottom of the float bowl and it sucks any impurities right into the jet..... GD

To put some of this to rest.... 1. Yes - he is the person you think he is John. The whole deal sounds pretty damn rotten to me, and I am not speaking to any of you anymore. I can't tell who's telling the truth, and who's lying, and who did what when. I'm out of it (I guess I was never in it really, other than having been a "customer" of both parties, but anyway...), and You, Kurt and Brett can go at it.... but please resolve this off the board. It's simply confusing to everyone who is not aware of the situation. Hell - I doubt I'm fully aware of it. I'm betting that everyone is stretching the truth and I simply don't care anymore. I'll be taking my business elsewhere in the future because I don't like buying potentially illegal products from potentially dishonest people. 2. KP is the guy's initials - has nothing to do with PK. GD says "Buy PK" GD

Jeezuz? Who built that crap? Looks unsafe..... GD