GeneralDisorder

If someone were to offer me a decent price I might part with this slanted deck..... They are soooooo hard to find. And when you do, they are often cut up. In fact - this is the only one I've ever found that was useable. I put that deck in - it's from a loyale - with a Kenwood trim ring I got at a stereo shop. GD

No problem man - I went to take a comparison shot today of the cups and my camera didn't have the flash card in it . I'll get some soon tho and post them in the album here.... GD

Depends on the rubber you are running. I blew an axle with 28" mudders just turning into my driveway :cool:..... The key to not blowing up your axles is to remember that CV's (and DOJ's too) are rated for how many RPM's they can stand at a given angle. Thus the steeper the angle, the fewer RPM's they can handle before failure. How are you planning to do the lift in the rear? If you are going to go with suspension lift like my wagon (I have about 3 of suspension), then I sugest some thought be put into using EA82 DOJ's, and maybe some limiting straps to limit downward travel when that wheel is in the air. Mine were running at such an extreme angle, that even though I had broken one rear axle and already removed it, the welded diff snapped the other axle too when I was attempting a hill climb (wheel in the air, rotating at high speed - BOOM). I broke both axles that day, and drove home with 2WD. That's a strong diff.... GD

The DOJ cup itself is deeper - by about 1/4". If you want even deeper than that, the DOJ cups from a legacy are deeper yet again by about 1/4". The front DOJ cups on an EA81 and the rear DOJ's from an EA82 appear very much the same from my inspection, and all the them - EA81, EA82 and EJ have the same joint components and the same splines on the axle shafts. In fact, if you want 25 spline EA81 front axles for a turbo trans from an EA82, you can use the turbo legacy cups on the EA81 axles..... all of this stuff swaps around without much trouble. The only real concern is the thickness of the axle shaft for high-angle running..... but you could have the EA81 axles lathed down a bit to compensate for that easily enough. I just put an axle together for my EA81 wagon, and I used an EA82 DOJ, and the joint parts came from a legacy axle. I sit in the Subaru isle at the Junk Yard dismantleing axles for parts - can you tell? GD

That's true - and it's difficult to see the smoke while driving. I would also like to know if your PCV changes did away with the problem..... GD

I was just discussing this thread with Calebz and Turbone the other day. It appears that not all EA82's had CV's on the outer joint. A lot of EA82's had DOJ's on both ends already. Just like an EA81. So if you just find some of those axles that already have DOJ's on both ends you should be golden..... they are out there - I just saw some the other day, and Calebz said he has 3 sets of the double DOJ's in his garage. GD

As in - it does not do it when turning left - which was his original question, and the one which I was addressing. By his own description, they are two seperate problems..... Also - if the fuel pump pressure is good, it might be a good idea to test the fuel pump volume as well - especially since the pressure reading seems a bit high acording to the FSM. GD

My EA81 in the Brat is running 87, and with the shaved heads now pushing 9.1 compression, and the timing at 10 degrees (stock should be 8) I get just the slightest amount of pinging under load. Very subtle. I will probably reduce it to 9 degrees, and maybe back to 8 once I get the 1600 pistons in, and the compression goes up to around 9.5. Seriously - I have crazy power for an EA81, and 87 runs just fine in my rig - even with higher than stock compression. I don't know why Subaru would have sugested 90 or more - I have read that also in my manuals. Maybe the quality of gas in the 80's wasn't as high. I know they have made progress in 20 years..... I have experienced EA81's that ping - the one in my parts car (which has MAD power) pings going up hills. It has 330k miles on it, and my guess is that it has serious carbon build up in the chamber - probably pushing the compression up in the mid to high 9's. We put the timing at 7 degrees but it still does it up hills under load... The engine runs awesome and has insane power, so we have just left it alone for now. GD

Tis true what he says - none of them are easy to find. Here in Subaru country I sometimes forget that not every place on earth is this lucky. Out here, I've seen maybe one RX in the junk yard. I'm not sure how many FT4WD 5 speeds I've seen, but it's not less than 8 or 10 I don't think. I've pulled two LSD's from them.... GD

Sorry Arch, but I don't have to measure other cars - I have FSM's..... Where it clearly states under Non-Turbo, discharge pressure = 1.35 - 2.06 psi. And no - I didn't scan that - it's from Qman's album.... GD

On the gas hard would mean the secondary barrel is at least somewhat open I should think.... maybe a partially clogged secondary jet? Have to pull the top off the carb to get to it, but that's way easier than on a Hitachi. Hehe. The design of the Weber's float bowl really helps prevent getting junk in the jets, but if it did get in there, the design also prevents it from getting out easily. Try looking in the carb down at the secondary jet while reving it - see if the spray pattern from that jet looks funny. That would indicate a partially clogged jet or emulsion tube.... Your top speed aint right - My wagon gets up to about 72 or 73 on the speedo before she's topped out, and that's with 28's.... GD

Sorry Arch, but I'm afraid you do not understand the functioning of a carburetor very well. Here is a great article on the inner workings of the Hitachi downdraft: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_carb_tuning_guide.html As far as the idle circuit goes, I think you have mistakenly associated the word "circuit" with something electrical - which it is not. The term cicuit is used to describe the path of gasoline and air inside a carb. The idle circuit, if it did have some sort of cutoff (which, as you surmised, it does not) would therefore not be called a switch, but rather a valve. At any rate, here is a wonderful description from the above article describing the working of the idle circuit (this applies to just about any carb actually - but this article happens to be about Hitachi downdrafts. The explanation works equally well for a carter/weber, or a Weber DGV - which this article also discusses). If you open the throttle plates and create an artificial vacuum by covering the intake, you will simply flood the engine from the main jet's. The idle circuit is very small and requires a high amount of vacuum with the throttle plates nearly closed to operate at all. GD

Anyone that thinks bad of the justy needs to read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/articles/justy-lsr.jpg GD

The XT6 tranny doesn't have an LSD - just some of them came with LSD *rear* diffs. The fitement of the FT4WD (Full Time Four Wheel Drive) is different, as the tranny itself is a slightly different shape. You should talk to ShawnW as he has done something like this with his wagon. He will know more particlulars than I. I would say the D/R would be better for a rally rig. The XT6 tranny isn't bad tho - it will launch hard with that 3.9 diff. Much like an RX tranny in low range I should think. Both are hard to find, so beware of that. They did make single range FT4WD trannies too - they came in a lot of the EA82T wagons and such. These are considerably easier to find. GD

One of the coolest things about running a Brat in the rally-x (in my opinion), is that it's the only soob that runs in truck class. Truck class is pretty open for modifications and such, so a Weber and built engine are allowed. The reason Brat's nearly always dominate truck class is because with the exception of the bed itself, the Brat really is a car. It has a car drivetrain, D/R 4WD, and a car suspension. So basically we get to legally cheat. Almost nothing in truck class can even come close to a Brat except another Brat. Some of the Durango's with 350 HP can compete when the track is dry, but when it gets wet they can't stay on the track, and the Brats take over. The top finishers in truck class at the last rally consisted of 4 Brat's and 1 Baja. The other soobs that do surprisingly well are the Justy's. With a competent driver, and pushing 63 HP at only 1700 lbs, the 4WD models tear the track apart. It's really amazing how well they do for their small stature. GD

The only AWD tranny made that will go into the car is the one from a late 80's FT4WD (same as AWD) EA82T. The spline count is different so you have to have axles made, or swap the DOJ joints with those from a turbo legacy. The only D/R version of this tranny came in the late 80's RX (87 to 89 I do beleive) - it's low range is only 1.2:1, and it has a 3.7 diff so it's more of a rally trans. There is another AWD tranny that will fit - the one from an AWD XT6 - not sure on the spline count of that one, but it's AWD and has a 3.9 gear ratio. Some of the XT6's came with 3.9 LSD's in the rear too. GD

Wow - that's just devious Caleb. I hope SOA burns for this BS. Gawd I love my EA81's..... GD

Check for play in the stubs comming out of the tranny - if they wobble around then you have a bearing going out inside the tranny. Only thing to do is replace it or rebuild it. There is a front diff - ring and pinion gear - just as you surmised. Again - not really serviceable easily. Replace or rebuild the tranny if this is the case. I hope it isn't and you just got a bad axle. I've had rebuilt axle that didn't last more than a few thousand miles because the quality of the rebuilt units seems to be fairly poor from a lot of the rebuilders we have here in the states..... GD

Sounds like an axle to me - front outer joint's make those nasty clicking noises - especially going slow and turning - just as you describe. Check for failed boots - that can indicate a joint failure. GD

Actually, no - that's a bit high. The stock FP for the carbs is 1.35 - 2.06 psi by the FSM. But for a Weber your's is close to optimal. Although it's a bit of a mystery why your's would be that high. I can't imagine they would fail with an increase! GD

Not angry - just being helpful. So this "trick" of yours will fix the worn throttle shafts in a Hitachi with 200k on it? Or the gas-disolved gaskets and o-rings in it? Or maybe the crumbling accelerator pump? Also - revving it and sticking your hand over the carb could indeed clean out the jets, but since his problem is with the idle circuit, which is not engaged what so ever when the throttle plates are open, it won't really do anything now will it? No gas is flowing through the portion of the carb that is responsible for idleing..... besides that, we have not determined that his problem isn't a vacuum leak - and no amount of carb cleaning will fix that. GD

He said it does not blow smoke on left hand turns - just stumbles. I do agree on the PCV routing change because of the oil you described on the valve cover, but I also believe your pump is not keeping up with the demand of the Weber. GD

Apparently he already tried that. The whole ignition assembly is quite easy to remove from an EA81. You remove the steering wheel and the upper and lower column covers, and then there are 4 bolts that you can remove with a pair of needle nose vise grips, and the whole ignition assembly will slide right off the column. I can remove one in about 15 minutes.... maybe less. GD

Noobs are fine - and I answer lots of well-spoken questions from noobs all the time. It's the ones that think we are mind readers that make me wonder: "my car [note that poster makes no attempt to describe the model or year] makes this really strange click-rattle-splat sound every time I take a drink of my esspresso when the radio is tuned to KXL and I apply the brakes durring a left turn parking manuever. I think it may be associated with the wiring for my custom computer controlled boost inhibitor.... can anyone tell me what this is? I know some of you must have experienced this...." And of course the kids who's parents bought them an older soob, and who now want it to magically turn into a Ferrari - and at the press of a button turn into a rock crawler as well. News Flash! Not gonna happen with your budget kiddies..... Hehe - it's fun to wisecrack at them sometimes. I'm guilty of it. But if it's a legitimate question, or someone that really needs help I won't disrespect them out of hand. I'm here because I learn from this place, and enjoy contributing what I have learned from others on the board, and from my own research and experience. GD

Oh! you mean bigger offset? I think not - I'm running chevy 6 lugs - they stick out past my fenders ~3". GD