GeneralDisorder

Yep - and while your wiring up switches, have one to turn off the Alternator too. You can run strickly off the battery for short periods, and the alt uses HP. It's an old drag racing trick. GD

3AT's are vacuum actuated - no computer. Have you pulled the governor and inspected it? What makes you think this "can't" be the solution? Have you flushed it and filled with new fluid? Basically, if you have ruled out the fluid and the gov, and it still no worky - time for a 5 speed. GD

Check your routing of the PCV. Sound like you are puking oil from the passenger vavle cover. If the PCV isn't connected right this will happen.... As for oil, 10w30 is fine. Engine is WAY too small for 2" headers. Run the stock Header (y-pipe), and anything you like after it. Holes in the muffler will not effect your emmissions - just make it loud. GD

Justy's really need their own forum, as they are completely unlike any other subaru - new or old. The problem is they don't warrant their own forum because frankly most people here don't like them. They were not all that reliable either - with their engines often lasting only 100k before needing a rebuild. I personally like the Justy, and have had my eye out for a 4WD one for a while now. Unfortunately, they are rare, and parts are even more rare. Would make a sweet rally-x rig - cheap, light, and 4WD. And no one will care if I destroy it. GD

That's what air suspension is for. GD

Yeah - definately agree on the High-Temp grease. Those bearings get nice and warm, and you don't want the grease breaking down. The friction from the brake disc's gets transmitted right through the axle to the bearings, so it can get REALLY hot when you are going down long hills and such. The freezer is a great idea, although I have not used it myself because I'm always in too much of a hurry to wait on it. I've heard about that technique here before and have always wanted to try it. CV's that make noises..... yes they do, but until you have experienced one that is REALLY, REALLY bad, you don't quite understand just how bad they can sound and still operate. If you don't have to pull over to check if the wheel is still there, then the noise isn't loud enough yet! Seriously - they can take a lot of abuse and a little clicking while turning is nothing to worry about. It just indicates some wear on the bearing cage inside the joint. It's when you hear crunching noises and it clicks ALL the time, not just while turning, that you have to stand up and take notice. In my experience the rattle in the exhaust is nearly always inside the cat, and difficult to fix unless you weld up a new one. You can check for rocks in the cat's dust cover, but often the bolts are rusted so bad they will never come out..... GD

You have to remove the strut to adjust it. There's no tool. I adjusted mine with my bare hands when I installed them in my wagon. GD

Use a digital volt-meter at the battery and check the *real* voltage. Those gauges are totally inaccurate. Mine jumps from 12 to 15 randomly, but the digital meter reads within .5 volts all the time - depending on what's turned on. Your voltage should be around 14 - 14.5 or so. GD

There are people running around in XT6's with 250 HP, so the transmission's can handle it, no worries there. The EA82 5 speed tranny is really no different than a WRX 5 speed in design. If one wished, you could open it up and strengthen a few choice bits and have essentially the same thing as a WRX EJ tranny, but in an EA casing. The only really totally *new* transmission that Subaru has come out with since 85 is the STi 6 speed. The beauty of the XT6 tranny is that it's aready a 3.9 final drive just like your 3-door, and is a direct bolt in. Not to mention it's an AWD (they called it Full-Time-4WD back then). GD

The 5 speed 4WD or AWD from the RX's or XT6 would work, and would handle the power easily. You would need an adaptor, but that's probably not all that hard if you can cut some aluminium plate. Sounds to me like you have an EA81 2WD 5 speed. Overhead valve. These engines can be built up to around 100 HP without much trouble (80 HP stock). Upwards of 140 HP has been done for aircraft, and turbo and supercharged versions have been built up to around 200 HP. GD

Without the computer, the carb will run VERY rich. Not a good idea unless you switch over to a DCP-306-26 instead of the DCP-306-24 which is equiped for vacuum fuel metering. GD

Just poke a drinking straw down the spark plug hole and watch for the disty rotor to come around to the #1 wire. You will feel when it's at TDC. Mark a line on the flywheel with a sharpie and you are in business. All you have to do then is measure out a few more marks for each degree +/- of TDC. Simple really. GD

Interesting - I wasn't aware of that. I guess that's why they do a "visible exhaust" test. In that case, if you have an EA81 that runs on all cylinders you should pass no problem! Hehe. GD

They can pass with no cat - the only way an EA81 wouldn't pass is if it were actually burning a LOT of oil. Rings almost never wear out on HO engines, so that leaves valve's. Thing about the valves is that since they lay on their sides, not much oil can get sucked though them, so burning oil is not something you typically see on an EA81. The rest is simply carb adjustments, timing, and making sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or other non-functioning accessories. From what I have seen, the cat basically only helps your cruise emmissions anyway, and even then only when you have a functioning AIS. My cruise emmissions (HC's) were around 110 without the cat, and dropped to about 35 with the cat and the functioning AIS. The limit is 220. As far as passing with a Weber - should be easier since you have more adjustment, and the carb is newer (unless you use a used one). My experience has been that Weber's are more efficient than the regular Hitachi's, but considerably less efficient than the feedback Hitachi. GD

It did for me, yeah. That's pretty much why I have it disabled. Too much oxygen is being introduced into the exhaust, and unburnt fuel is mixing and then being ignited by the hot exhaust. The other way to stop it is to fix the rich mixture, but I've found that to be difficult with the Hitachi. The Hitachi's tend to run a lot more rich than they need to. The feedback Hitachi's did quite well when they were in tune..... GD

Nope GD

If you have no cat, then it should have been tossed with the old exhaust as it serves no purpose but to introduce burnable oxygen into your exhaust stream (thus the backfireing). Just block it off at the spacer with a quarter using the hacksawed end of the pipe. Keep the ASV's an the plastic silencers around in a shoe-box in case you or someone you know has the infamous ASV meltdown and needs one. The rest you can toss. You will need to block off the ASV intake ports on the air filter box as they by-pass the filter. Duct tape works well..... rubber caps would be good but are hard to find in that size. GD

Durring a visual check, they may find no AIS if you remove it - which is suspicous if you have a cat. At any rate, if you remove the spacer, your Y-pipe will not clear the engine cross-member. I would leave it all on there, as your catalytic converter will not work very well without at least one of the AIS valves operating. I block mine off at the valve with a quarter unless I'm driving to the DEQ as they cause backfireing on exhaust systems with small leaks. The parts guys at the dealership are idiots. EA81's from 82 on all had AIS systems of some sort - either a single one on one side with nothing on the other, two AIS valves - one for each head, or in the case of the feedback carb models they had a single vacuum operated valve on the drivers side, and a blank spacer on the other side. The Y-pipe's for each type are different lengths where they mate with the head to accomidate no spacer's, a single spacer, or two spacers. GD

When you see something like this, always ask yourself why it's not on production vehicles if it's such a hot item? Silly, simply silly. Might as well burn your money for heat. GD

All the EA81's have DOJ's on both ends. Works fine. GD

This one contains the link. The translated version on this board sucks cause the linky don't work: http://pub205.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsfrm7.showMessage?topicID=163.topic Here's the link to the bike: http://homepage.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/Rafael.Haeusler/bitza.shtml GD

I *thought* that EA82 rear axles had DOJ's on each end like an EA81 rear axle - but since I don't have an EA82 in front of me I can't verify that. If it's a CV on the outer end then I *think* the inner race is held on by a spring clip that slips into a groove on the inside of the race. DOJ's come apart easy, but CV's are basically impossible unless you have a press handy. As for using an EA81 axle, you can't because they are too short for an EA82..... GD

Basher - this thread is all EA81 specific - your stuff is different. Sorry. GD

DOH! I have no idea as I'm an EA81 guy, but I would check your fuses if you haven't already. It's very possible they were blown. Bad alt's can do all sorts of weird things - one of which is over-voltage which can lead to burning stuff out. Sounds like your at least not going to be stranded now - glad you got the problem located. Someone here will know about the lights.... GD

No - the alt doesn't set any codes. But you should disconnect the battery when you change the alt because there is a hot positive lead on the back that will spark if you touch anything when removing it. Multiple glowing idiot lights with no apparent cause is almost always the alternator spewing AC current (bad diode(s) can cause this). GD