GeneralDisorder

What car? Model and Year? Fuel Injected, Carbed, Turbo?? What color is the smoke? GD

Well - there is more to it than just some fuses. I'm not the one to ask about an EA82, but on EA81's there is a Fuel Pump Control Unit that will cease to function unless the engine is running..... I'm sure that a similar system is used to accomplish this safety feature on your rig. You should aquire a manual with the proper wireing diagram for the fuel pump circuit. GD

On EA81's there's a bell behind the glove box.... just thought I would toss that out there for completeness - in case someone were searching for how to disable it... :-p GD

83 should have a VR in the alternator. They switched to interally regulated Alts in 82. The external ones are really obvious - being located in a big round blue container on the drivers side of the engine bay...... That picture looks very much like the ones that are inside the Alt. Good luck taking it apart - I've never been succesful. I usually just get another Alt from the junk yard. EA81, EA81T, EA82, and EA82T alts are all the same (well -the internally regulated ones anyway), and will swap around with no modifications. There are usually a lot of them to be found in the junk yards for cheap ($15 around here...) GD

When I did the gasket on my Brat, I looked at the Fel-Pro instructions, and they say to use whatever the vehicle manufacturere sugests. I looked in the FSM and it said to use some sort of head gasket sealer. I didn't use anything, and it's been great, but the manual does sugest a sealer: "Apply head gasket sealant THREE BOND 1201 (004403008) or DOW CORNING #92-024 evenly to both sides of the new cylinder head gasket with a brush." Addmitedly this is for EA81's and EA81T's, but I don't see why it would be different for an EA82T.... GD

The Justy isn't fully a soob - thus your confusion I suppose. It was apparently a joint project by Subaru and Isuzu..... the source of the weird lug pattern possibly. It also came with 12" wheels originally. Some of the later ones had 13's tho. GD

I've heard you can do a lot with about 5 or 10 thousand of those little estes rocket engines..... GD

Yep - taprack has the right idea. That's what I did. That's the procudure that's been floating around for a while. You can also take the hubs to a machine shop and have them drilled for 6 lugs - they can even spline the holes for the lugs..... Make sure there are not raised bumps where you need to drill on the rim. I've encountered some steel wheels that can't be drilled because the surface isn't flat between the existing holes. GD

You have to add studs (4) (and remove 2 of the existing ones), or drill two new holes in the rim. Easier to drill holes in the rim IMO. But either way works. GD

You try a dealership? GD

Test.... try going up a hill at about 25 MPH in 2nd gear, and then change to 5th gear. The engine should lug down when you release the clutch. If it doesn't, then your clutch is going. You can also just pull the engine and take a look at it. You will understand when you see it...... Pulling the engine is easier if you have a hoist. Pulling the tranny is less complicated, but it's heavy, and unless you have a couple friends - difficult to re-install. GD

No. Although I fail to see how you read through this thread and still had that question... GD

Red Line (brand name) is a high performance gear oil - it does help with bad syncro's sometimes. I run it in my wagon's tranny, but at $8 a quart you are already well on your way to the cost of another tranny by the time you fill it up..... (3.5 quarts I think...) GD

You definately have a problem. Check to make sure it's running on all cylinders (pull each plug wire and listen for a difference in engine sound). Check those fuel delivery issues that everyone else brought up. Check your air filter too. Is the engine original? If it is it would be a hydraulic lifter model, and does not require a valve adjustment. If it isn't, then it could be a solid lifter engine and maybe the valves are in need of adjustment. On the valve cover there should be a gold sticker that will say to not adjust the valves..... if you don't find that then you may need to look for some other indications.... Also - check the adjustment on your throttle cable, and make sure the vacuum secondary on the carb is opening. Don't expect to ever do a burn out in this thing - even on gravel - the early subaru auto's were pretty horrible about power transfer. But I did 80 MPH down the freeway in a Gen 1 automatic - 1.6L. And frankly, with the 3.7 gear ratio, you should be able to hit 100 MPH if the engine were in decent shape. I hit 110 one time in my 2WD 5 speed wagon - same gear ratio. GD

Beleive me, the 4 speed's are starting to dissapear. The 5 speeds are quite abundant in the yards, and people are throwing away good EA82's daily because of broken timing belts that cost more than the car is worth to fix. The tranny's are often fine. The yards here consist almost entirely of EA82's, and now a few legacies, and the occasional impreza. EA81's are difficult to find - the local u-pull-it's here currently have 1 (tigard), 3 (foster), and 2 (damascus). And there was a gen 1 Brat at the damascus yard, but it might be crushed now... GD

Down here in Portland, they pull the gas tank out and put it in the trunk of the car, so it's REALLY easy to get to the sending units. hehe. Our yards are filthy with soobs - I could probably go pick up 3 or 4 sets of rear discs if I wanted them.... GD

The clutch kit should be a little over $100 (it varies quite a bit depending on if you buy a rebuilt one or not, and where you get it), and you can do it, but it requires pulling the engine or the transmission. I personally like to pull the engine, but on an EA82 the trans might be simpler if you don't have a hoist. An engine hoist would make the job a lot easier. Someone who has done one before could do it in probably a couple hours. If you haven't, then set aside an entire day, or maybe a couple or them - like a weekend maybe. Once they start slipping like that - they tend to go VERY quickly, and when they do you will have no forward movement at all. In other words you would have to be towed home. If it were me I would stop driving it till you can get the clutch done. GD

Very common. Nothing you can really do except replace the tranny or rebuild it. Either the syncro is gone, or one of these fell out: They are syncro "alignment" dodads - Both McBrat and Myself have found these stuck to our drain plugs.... Mine still works - grinds on the downshift into third. Mick's was operable, but made some horrible noises apparently. GD

A 5 speed D/R would probably be better, and it's shorter too - so I imagine it would be easier to fit in the back.... If you can widen the track of your rig, you could use the EA82 rear axles that have an outer CV instead of a DOJ - the CV would allow for a steeper angle. GD

As for alignment, there is no alignment adjustment on the EA81's except the toe adjustment on the tie-rod ends. There is no need to remove them at all, and even if you do remove them, just mark the thread with some finger-nail polish, and make sure to thread the new end on the same amount. I've never had to have an alignment done on an EA81 as long as the ball joints, tie-rods and bushings are good. You don't need a press for anything on the suspension of an EA81 - front or rear. The use of one is time consuming, expensive, and uneccesary. If you want to follow the book and not take the advice of board members who have done it too many times to count, then by all means - but why ask in the first place then? GD

EA82 rear axle is too long for an EA81 rig. GD

EA81 Turbo's (coupe's included) never came with a manual. Finding one with a stick already in it will be nearly impossible. I say you get that coupe from Rob, and do the conversion - or heck. Drive it down here and I'll do it for a small fee and some beer..... As for the terminology thing.... I'm not sure either of us are totally correct, but I must have heard "radiius rod plate" somewhere, and it seems to fit. I don't see how that plate has anything at all to do with the struts..... unless "strut" refers to the radius rod. hehe. I'll look it up one of these days just to kicks.... GD

All the same - no differences in spline count between any of the trans types. Even the EA81T's had 23 spline axles. Length too - no difference there either. GD

Yeah - but the SUB4 heads are way different - custom cast - they are dual intake AND exhaust, and they have two spark plugs per cylinder. Really crazy stuff. The RAM heads are just dual intake, and are not custom castings - they are heavily modified stock heads. GD

You shouldn't run seperate headers, there needs to be a collector where the two pipes come together for the exhaust pulses to syncronize, and aid in balanced scavenging. Expect to lose about 10 HP if you go with totally seperate headers. And I have no idea where you would put the O2 sensor if you decided to go that route. You can still run two pipes - just run them from the Y back. Seems silly to me, unless you are just going for looks. A large single pipe is better - less to replace when it rusts out. No one makes any aftermarket for the EA cars really. XT's included. Especially the EA82's. At least the EA81's have a following in the aircraft community. The EA82's are to finicky about timing belts for those guys. GD