GeneralDisorder

I had my '84 wagon to 110 or 111 once on the flat and level (between Salem and Eugene on I-5) - the digi-dash speedo goes that high and more (140 I think). It was 2WD at the time, with a Weber. The 3.7 diff and the 5 speed really makes the difference. Had 175's on it too (stock for a 2WD). My Brat has seen 95 maybe 100. The gearing is such that without a better cam, you don't have enough power in 4th gear with a 3.9 diff to really get past that 100 mark. GD

I've got an EA81 apart on my bench, and I have an EA71 parts engine that I'll be taking the pistons out of in the next few months. Watch for a write up on this from me. I'll have pictures, and HARD data on piston heights from those two engines..... Decking the heads on an EA81 .020 will bring your compression up to ~9.12:1 near as I can figure. I'm hoping the EA71 pistons will bring it up to about 9.5:1..... GD

All of the bad DOJ's I've had caused massive vibration under acceleration. And didn't change much while turning. Stopped virbrating completely if you coast..... doesn't sound like your problem to me. Your problem sounds like a bad outer joint, or bad wheel bearings..... GD

Leak in your exhaust system. Try putting some quarters in the Air Suction Valve supply pipes - where they screw into the valves. GD

This is a good thread. I covered a lot of stuff in here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14472&page=1&pp=10 Basically, you just need to understand what each of the systems does, and go from there. But then once you understand all the systems, it's no problem to leave them in place. Removing them will not give you any more power - it will simply make your car smell like gas all the time. GD

Just look a the strut housing - you will see the notches and stuff on the outside near the bottom where it attaches to the trailing arm. GD

There is nothing different about a Baja compared to any other EJ engined Subaru, and yes - EJ engines have been put into Brats. Do some searches and you will find something I wager. As for Low Pro's on 20 inch rims - Sure - go with the 6 lug conversion, and swap anthing on that will fit a chevy or toyota...... don't run into me tho, cause I'll slap you. GD

Yep - the EA82 rear has no torsion bar, and thus no nut. You may or may not have adjustable rear coil-overs. Not sure about the RX's specifically, but many EA82's didn't have them (I use them on the rear of the EA81's for more suspension lift, and have trouble finding the adjustable ones sometimes). And many aftermarket designs don't either. So if they have been replaced, you may have to find some Subaru ones..... You have to remove and dismantle the strut to adjust them usually - since they are usually pretty stuck with dirt and crud. GD

If you pull an engine from a yard, it's $100 for a short block, or $150 for a long block (here in OR anyway - WA should be similar - except for the tax of course). Since it was ran out of oil, I would chuck the whole long block in the dumpster. Bad juju. Without oil, the whole engine is suspect. Grab a long block from a yard car - slap it in. Do the rear main seal and NOTHING else. If it runs good, go back in and do the rest of the seals and the timing belts. Otherwise, yank it and get another (free - yards give you a 30 day on used engines usually...). The head gasket problems are generally associated with the EA82 Turbo model - but of course anything can blow a head gasket given enough heat. GD

I would hope that after 40 minutes of driving the choke would be pulled off. Just the engine heat alone would do that. Still - pull off the air cleaner cover and check to make sure it isn't partially closed or something. Sounds to me like a bad accelerator pump in the carb. The accelerator pump squirts a small jet of fuel into the carburetor throat when the throttle plate is opened to allow the engine enough fuel to increase its speed to the point where the main circuit can take over. Pull the air filter housing off, and rev the engine by hand when it's in this "hesitation" mode - see if you can see the accelerator pump working - it's near the top of the carb, and will emit a pretty obvious stream of gas as you work the throttle..... More than likely, you need to do a complete carb rebuild. Hitachi's (I'm assuming you have a Hitachi - they are more common than the Carter/Weber) are notoriously difficult to rebuild but it can be done if you are careful and take your time. GD

If someone were to offer me a decent price I might part with this slanted deck..... They are soooooo hard to find. And when you do, they are often cut up. In fact - this is the only one I've ever found that was useable. I put that deck in - it's from a loyale - with a Kenwood trim ring I got at a stereo shop. GD

No problem man - I went to take a comparison shot today of the cups and my camera didn't have the flash card in it . I'll get some soon tho and post them in the album here.... GD

Depends on the rubber you are running. I blew an axle with 28" mudders just turning into my driveway :cool:..... The key to not blowing up your axles is to remember that CV's (and DOJ's too) are rated for how many RPM's they can stand at a given angle. Thus the steeper the angle, the fewer RPM's they can handle before failure. How are you planning to do the lift in the rear? If you are going to go with suspension lift like my wagon (I have about 3 of suspension), then I sugest some thought be put into using EA82 DOJ's, and maybe some limiting straps to limit downward travel when that wheel is in the air. Mine were running at such an extreme angle, that even though I had broken one rear axle and already removed it, the welded diff snapped the other axle too when I was attempting a hill climb (wheel in the air, rotating at high speed - BOOM). I broke both axles that day, and drove home with 2WD. That's a strong diff.... GD

The DOJ cup itself is deeper - by about 1/4". If you want even deeper than that, the DOJ cups from a legacy are deeper yet again by about 1/4". The front DOJ cups on an EA81 and the rear DOJ's from an EA82 appear very much the same from my inspection, and all the them - EA81, EA82 and EJ have the same joint components and the same splines on the axle shafts. In fact, if you want 25 spline EA81 front axles for a turbo trans from an EA82, you can use the turbo legacy cups on the EA81 axles..... all of this stuff swaps around without much trouble. The only real concern is the thickness of the axle shaft for high-angle running..... but you could have the EA81 axles lathed down a bit to compensate for that easily enough. I just put an axle together for my EA81 wagon, and I used an EA82 DOJ, and the joint parts came from a legacy axle. I sit in the Subaru isle at the Junk Yard dismantleing axles for parts - can you tell? GD

That's true - and it's difficult to see the smoke while driving. I would also like to know if your PCV changes did away with the problem..... GD

I was just discussing this thread with Calebz and Turbone the other day. It appears that not all EA82's had CV's on the outer joint. A lot of EA82's had DOJ's on both ends already. Just like an EA81. So if you just find some of those axles that already have DOJ's on both ends you should be golden..... they are out there - I just saw some the other day, and Calebz said he has 3 sets of the double DOJ's in his garage. GD

As in - it does not do it when turning left - which was his original question, and the one which I was addressing. By his own description, they are two seperate problems..... Also - if the fuel pump pressure is good, it might be a good idea to test the fuel pump volume as well - especially since the pressure reading seems a bit high acording to the FSM. GD

My EA81 in the Brat is running 87, and with the shaved heads now pushing 9.1 compression, and the timing at 10 degrees (stock should be 8) I get just the slightest amount of pinging under load. Very subtle. I will probably reduce it to 9 degrees, and maybe back to 8 once I get the 1600 pistons in, and the compression goes up to around 9.5. Seriously - I have crazy power for an EA81, and 87 runs just fine in my rig - even with higher than stock compression. I don't know why Subaru would have sugested 90 or more - I have read that also in my manuals. Maybe the quality of gas in the 80's wasn't as high. I know they have made progress in 20 years..... I have experienced EA81's that ping - the one in my parts car (which has MAD power) pings going up hills. It has 330k miles on it, and my guess is that it has serious carbon build up in the chamber - probably pushing the compression up in the mid to high 9's. We put the timing at 7 degrees but it still does it up hills under load... The engine runs awesome and has insane power, so we have just left it alone for now. GD

Tis true what he says - none of them are easy to find. Here in Subaru country I sometimes forget that not every place on earth is this lucky. Out here, I've seen maybe one RX in the junk yard. I'm not sure how many FT4WD 5 speeds I've seen, but it's not less than 8 or 10 I don't think. I've pulled two LSD's from them.... GD

Sorry Arch, but I don't have to measure other cars - I have FSM's..... Where it clearly states under Non-Turbo, discharge pressure = 1.35 - 2.06 psi. And no - I didn't scan that - it's from Qman's album.... GD

On the gas hard would mean the secondary barrel is at least somewhat open I should think.... maybe a partially clogged secondary jet? Have to pull the top off the carb to get to it, but that's way easier than on a Hitachi. Hehe. The design of the Weber's float bowl really helps prevent getting junk in the jets, but if it did get in there, the design also prevents it from getting out easily. Try looking in the carb down at the secondary jet while reving it - see if the spray pattern from that jet looks funny. That would indicate a partially clogged jet or emulsion tube.... Your top speed aint right - My wagon gets up to about 72 or 73 on the speedo before she's topped out, and that's with 28's.... GD

Sorry Arch, but I'm afraid you do not understand the functioning of a carburetor very well. Here is a great article on the inner workings of the Hitachi downdraft: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_carb_tuning_guide.html As far as the idle circuit goes, I think you have mistakenly associated the word "circuit" with something electrical - which it is not. The term cicuit is used to describe the path of gasoline and air inside a carb. The idle circuit, if it did have some sort of cutoff (which, as you surmised, it does not) would therefore not be called a switch, but rather a valve. At any rate, here is a wonderful description from the above article describing the working of the idle circuit (this applies to just about any carb actually - but this article happens to be about Hitachi downdrafts. The explanation works equally well for a carter/weber, or a Weber DGV - which this article also discusses). If you open the throttle plates and create an artificial vacuum by covering the intake, you will simply flood the engine from the main jet's. The idle circuit is very small and requires a high amount of vacuum with the throttle plates nearly closed to operate at all. GD

Anyone that thinks bad of the justy needs to read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/articles/justy-lsr.jpg GD

The XT6 tranny doesn't have an LSD - just some of them came with LSD *rear* diffs. The fitement of the FT4WD (Full Time Four Wheel Drive) is different, as the tranny itself is a slightly different shape. You should talk to ShawnW as he has done something like this with his wagon. He will know more particlulars than I. I would say the D/R would be better for a rally rig. The XT6 tranny isn't bad tho - it will launch hard with that 3.9 diff. Much like an RX tranny in low range I should think. Both are hard to find, so beware of that. They did make single range FT4WD trannies too - they came in a lot of the EA82T wagons and such. These are considerably easier to find. GD

One of the coolest things about running a Brat in the rally-x (in my opinion), is that it's the only soob that runs in truck class. Truck class is pretty open for modifications and such, so a Weber and built engine are allowed. The reason Brat's nearly always dominate truck class is because with the exception of the bed itself, the Brat really is a car. It has a car drivetrain, D/R 4WD, and a car suspension. So basically we get to legally cheat. Almost nothing in truck class can even come close to a Brat except another Brat. Some of the Durango's with 350 HP can compete when the track is dry, but when it gets wet they can't stay on the track, and the Brats take over. The top finishers in truck class at the last rally consisted of 4 Brat's and 1 Baja. The other soobs that do surprisingly well are the Justy's. With a competent driver, and pushing 63 HP at only 1700 lbs, the 4WD models tear the track apart. It's really amazing how well they do for their small stature. GD