GeneralDisorder

Maybe leaf through a haynes manual for a 5200 equiped Ford at the local parts place..... or call a Ford dealership and ask them to look it up. LOL. Sounds like your data sheet will have the answer. As long as you know the size engine your carb came from. GD

If only there was a dry ice factory around the corner from my house. GD

Probably depends on which DFV you have. There are several with different sized venturi's. Is is a true DFV or a Ford version (holley 5200 series)? GD

Verify the accuracy of your guage before doing anything else. I changed the guage cluster on my Brat and the temp went down 1/4. The guages are not known for accuracy. Also - I know a guy that works at City Radiator in Portland, and he has done a couple radiators for me - it's around $70 to have one completely gone through (free for me of course!). Last one he did had a small leak that he soldered up but other than that was perfectly fine - this was on an 82 Brat. That just goes to show that radiators here on the left coast last a LONG time. You might look at the rest of your cooling system, but verify the guage first. GD

I shaved the heads on my Brat, and I notice slight pinging with the timing at 10 DBTC, but no problems at the stock 8. That is running regular of course. I'm currently at 9.1:1 compression instead of the stock 8.7, and with EA71 pistons I think the compression will be around 9.5:1. Might have to run meduim or premium but it should handle it without much trouble. Qman is running with .020 shaved heads and EA71 pistons in both of his Brats - one has a Delta cam ground for HP and the other is ground for torque. After talking to him, he seems to favor the torque grind over the HP one..... You also have to remember that the EA82's are running 9.5:1 already, and the high-output EA81's that were availible on the JDM were also running 9.5:1. There is a lot of room for increasing the compression since it's only 8.7:1 stock..... GD

Don't think so. But even if that's the case, it could be easily changed. I know the EA81's don't - but then they don't have ECU's at all for the most part. I also know that EA81's and EA82's use the same alt, so there's no special computer control going on. Also if the ECU did depend on the alt, then having your alt go bad would disable the car - and I know that's not the case. You can always limp home on just the battery with most cars..... GD

Would be better to just replace the syncro's on the D/R and use that. You would have to split the casing's on both to change the gears, and if you are doing that, then it would be smart to do all the syncro's anyway. And if that's the case, then use the D/R - no sense fixing a single range when you have a D/R you could fix..... GD

I actually took the struts completely apart now that I am thinking about it - that relieved the pressure of course. I didn't use a spring compressor to take them apart or put them together. I am not sure, but I may have had a friend press down on the cap while I started the nut. At any rate, I set them to the lowest setting possible, so you may actually need a compressor if you want to use the highest setting..... I wanted them spongy, and they went into my lifted EA81 wagon, so stiff was bad for my application. As for killing people - I prefer an aluminium bat - makes such a nice sound when it connects with skull.... GD

Last oil pump seal kit I got at the dealer = $5.65. Hehe GD

The tappets (called lifters by most here) are hydraulic and do not need adjustment. You could go with a smaller turbo that spools at a lower RPM. But Turbo engines are not designed to run at low RPM's. It takes getting used to, but that's how you have to drive it. 3500 or higher if you want the power..... Is this engine original? What country are you in? We didn't get EA81T's here in 82... and when we did get them it was with Automatic tranny's.... 5th gear?? Is this an EA82 4WD tranny, or a 2WD car? GD

Yep - and while your wiring up switches, have one to turn off the Alternator too. You can run strickly off the battery for short periods, and the alt uses HP. It's an old drag racing trick. GD

3AT's are vacuum actuated - no computer. Have you pulled the governor and inspected it? What makes you think this "can't" be the solution? Have you flushed it and filled with new fluid? Basically, if you have ruled out the fluid and the gov, and it still no worky - time for a 5 speed. GD

Check your routing of the PCV. Sound like you are puking oil from the passenger vavle cover. If the PCV isn't connected right this will happen.... As for oil, 10w30 is fine. Engine is WAY too small for 2" headers. Run the stock Header (y-pipe), and anything you like after it. Holes in the muffler will not effect your emmissions - just make it loud. GD

Justy's really need their own forum, as they are completely unlike any other subaru - new or old. The problem is they don't warrant their own forum because frankly most people here don't like them. They were not all that reliable either - with their engines often lasting only 100k before needing a rebuild. I personally like the Justy, and have had my eye out for a 4WD one for a while now. Unfortunately, they are rare, and parts are even more rare. Would make a sweet rally-x rig - cheap, light, and 4WD. And no one will care if I destroy it. GD

That's what air suspension is for. GD

Yeah - definately agree on the High-Temp grease. Those bearings get nice and warm, and you don't want the grease breaking down. The friction from the brake disc's gets transmitted right through the axle to the bearings, so it can get REALLY hot when you are going down long hills and such. The freezer is a great idea, although I have not used it myself because I'm always in too much of a hurry to wait on it. I've heard about that technique here before and have always wanted to try it. CV's that make noises..... yes they do, but until you have experienced one that is REALLY, REALLY bad, you don't quite understand just how bad they can sound and still operate. If you don't have to pull over to check if the wheel is still there, then the noise isn't loud enough yet! Seriously - they can take a lot of abuse and a little clicking while turning is nothing to worry about. It just indicates some wear on the bearing cage inside the joint. It's when you hear crunching noises and it clicks ALL the time, not just while turning, that you have to stand up and take notice. In my experience the rattle in the exhaust is nearly always inside the cat, and difficult to fix unless you weld up a new one. You can check for rocks in the cat's dust cover, but often the bolts are rusted so bad they will never come out..... GD

You have to remove the strut to adjust it. There's no tool. I adjusted mine with my bare hands when I installed them in my wagon. GD

Use a digital volt-meter at the battery and check the *real* voltage. Those gauges are totally inaccurate. Mine jumps from 12 to 15 randomly, but the digital meter reads within .5 volts all the time - depending on what's turned on. Your voltage should be around 14 - 14.5 or so. GD

There are people running around in XT6's with 250 HP, so the transmission's can handle it, no worries there. The EA82 5 speed tranny is really no different than a WRX 5 speed in design. If one wished, you could open it up and strengthen a few choice bits and have essentially the same thing as a WRX EJ tranny, but in an EA casing. The only really totally *new* transmission that Subaru has come out with since 85 is the STi 6 speed. The beauty of the XT6 tranny is that it's aready a 3.9 final drive just like your 3-door, and is a direct bolt in. Not to mention it's an AWD (they called it Full-Time-4WD back then). GD

The 5 speed 4WD or AWD from the RX's or XT6 would work, and would handle the power easily. You would need an adaptor, but that's probably not all that hard if you can cut some aluminium plate. Sounds to me like you have an EA81 2WD 5 speed. Overhead valve. These engines can be built up to around 100 HP without much trouble (80 HP stock). Upwards of 140 HP has been done for aircraft, and turbo and supercharged versions have been built up to around 200 HP. GD

Without the computer, the carb will run VERY rich. Not a good idea unless you switch over to a DCP-306-26 instead of the DCP-306-24 which is equiped for vacuum fuel metering. GD

Just poke a drinking straw down the spark plug hole and watch for the disty rotor to come around to the #1 wire. You will feel when it's at TDC. Mark a line on the flywheel with a sharpie and you are in business. All you have to do then is measure out a few more marks for each degree +/- of TDC. Simple really. GD

Interesting - I wasn't aware of that. I guess that's why they do a "visible exhaust" test. In that case, if you have an EA81 that runs on all cylinders you should pass no problem! Hehe. GD

They can pass with no cat - the only way an EA81 wouldn't pass is if it were actually burning a LOT of oil. Rings almost never wear out on HO engines, so that leaves valve's. Thing about the valves is that since they lay on their sides, not much oil can get sucked though them, so burning oil is not something you typically see on an EA81. The rest is simply carb adjustments, timing, and making sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or other non-functioning accessories. From what I have seen, the cat basically only helps your cruise emmissions anyway, and even then only when you have a functioning AIS. My cruise emmissions (HC's) were around 110 without the cat, and dropped to about 35 with the cat and the functioning AIS. The limit is 220. As far as passing with a Weber - should be easier since you have more adjustment, and the carb is newer (unless you use a used one). My experience has been that Weber's are more efficient than the regular Hitachi's, but considerably less efficient than the feedback Hitachi. GD

It did for me, yeah. That's pretty much why I have it disabled. Too much oxygen is being introduced into the exhaust, and unburnt fuel is mixing and then being ignited by the hot exhaust. The other way to stop it is to fix the rich mixture, but I've found that to be difficult with the Hitachi. The Hitachi's tend to run a lot more rich than they need to. The feedback Hitachi's did quite well when they were in tune..... GD