GeneralDisorder

Yeah - once you get the roll pins out, it's just one bolt, and she'll pop right out.... done forget the nylon bushing on the bottom of it tho. Its snaps on, and they wear out. Would be a good time to replace this $3 part. GD

Strangely enough, all the ones I've pulled apart the rod was worn, but not the shifter! Sucks because to replace the rod requires dissasembly of the trans. When I did the one on my wagon with the trans out of the car, I drilled both out to 3/8" and bolted it with a SS bolt (this is the one in the picture). That one is INSANELY tight now. Almost no play at all. The one in my Brat I just used an 8mm bolt, and it's also tight, but not quite as good as the wagon. Both are 500% better than what it was tho. I would just do the 8mm bolt unless you have a small right angle drill that can chuck up a 9mm or larger bit and fit in under the car.... you could take the driveline out (just four bolts, but lookout for the trans fluidif you do), and drop the transmission cross-member and that might give you enough room to get a small drill in there..... I wouldn't bother tho. 8mm is just fine, and most of the tightness comes from the slots, and the clamping effect that gives you. GD

Yeah - we have better movies on the way - if Ian ever gets them edited.... For front axle removal - check out this famous post by Ed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2576&highlight=edrach+axle Basically you need a 36mm socket, a big breaker bar, a 3/16" pin punch, hammer (ball peen works well), 2 lb sledge hammer and block of wood (for removal), and some washers and screwdrivers for installation. A torque wrench is good to have for tightening the castle nut, but not absolutely needed. Also a general selection of hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers etc) is needed to effect the removal / installation. Welded rear diff.... well that's usually done by someone with a welder, so unless you have one, or access to one, you will need to find someone with a welder to do it. Diff removal is pretty simple, and it's basically only labor to weld it up. There's no parts involved besides a bit of oil to fill it up when you install it. Diff welding is pretty simple if you follow a couple rules. When the time comes for you to do it, ask me and I'll go into details. If done wrong the welds can break and cause all manner of problems. The skid plate on my rig is solid 1/8" plate steel, and was made by a fellow ATLAS member - Ian. His board name is Bugaru around here. You should see *his* skid plate. Makes mine look pretty weak by comparison. His is hooked into the from bumper that he made, and very solid. Actually both of ours are TOO solid, as they have bent our engine cross-members. We are going to have to reinforce those as well at some point. GD

You can buy axles brand new - which is what I have on my rig right now. But for spares I pull axles from the junk yard. These are just to get me home if I do happen to break one. My new axles (autozone, GCK brand) are lifetime warranteed and I get a new one if I break it (haven't broke a front yet, but I've busted 5 rears with the welded diff....). New GCK's are $90 each - Junk Yards charge around $25 for an axle generally - but there's also your time to pull it..... One thing is for SURE - you will get VERY, VERY good at changing axles. Subaru's of our vintage eat them like candy. That's why I've opted for the lifetime NEW axles - especially since I've had REALLY, REALLY bad luck with remanufactured units. GD

Mine was also done by TWB fab. My front guard is quite sturdy - I've hit a number of things with it, and no problems thus far. His pricing is quite reasonable. Mine was around $100, and required considerable work to create and install because my rig was originally 2WD and thus has MUCH different bumper mounts. GD

85 wagon would have an EA82. Unless you swap it out..... if you are looking for an EA81 wagon, then you want an 80-84. But the 80/81 4WD's have EA71's, so really you want an 82-84 4WD GL. 82 is the best year because the tranny has lower 3rd and 4th gearing - helps with the big tires. Also - there's a LOT more to it than just slapping a bunch of parts on the rig and trying to climb trees. You WILL break stuff if you off-road with any of the clubs around up there. And you WILL have to at least be willing to learn to fix these problems yourself. A good selection of hand tools, and a few specialty tools are a must for your rig. Also a least one full size spare - prefereably two. A tow strap, a jack, and a few other things as well Certain parts on the rig can use improvement - the diff hanger comes to mind, as well as the front skid plate. I've even seen bent front control arms because there's part of the arm that isn't reinforced like it should be. You should always carry at least one spare front axle, and if you have a welded rear diff, a spare rear axle, and spare stub axles are excelent ideas as well. If you break any of these parts and do not have spares or the tools to fix it, your looking at an expensive tow bill possibly. Although I have always been lucky enough to have friends around that pulled me out, or loaned me parts..... it's stil wise to try and be prepared. Oh - and don't worry about it too much, because you will almost always forget something anyway. Take a look at my wagon over at: www.atlas4x4.com GD

Just checked my FSM - you're right! There was one - the 1980 DL Hatchback Automatic. GD

Hhhmmm - never heard that before, but I can't personally discount the possibility. 80 EA81's being as rare as they are and all (only automatic GL's), and being that 80 was the first year for the EA81, it certainly sounds like a possibility. Call the dealership and ask, or since it only takes a few minutes to pull the pump off (assuming it's not stuck bad), then take it with you and have the JY mark it before you go in showing that it's yours. Then you can compare them side by side. Although you might just buy it since I can't imagine they are real expensive from the JY. Never a bad thing to have an EA81 oil pump lying around - even if you can't use it - someone else probably can. GD

Gen 2 axles are all the same. EA71, EA81 - doesn't matter. Gen 2's are: 80-84 Wagons, Coupes, Sedans 80-89 Hatchbacks 82-87 Brats It should be noted however, that 2WD front axles have a smaller diameter shaft, and a smaller diameter outer joint. They will still fit on a 4WD, but they are apparently not as strong. Shaft diameter is 23mm for 2WD, and 25mm for 4WD. I've never noticed a problem running 2WD shafts in my lifted wagon, but one must figure they did it for *some* reason..... GD

Nope - 2WD is completely different. On those you need new bushings. GD

From the factory, it's a roll pin (two of them actually) and a cotter pin. Yes - you have to make the cut (on both sides), and them put in a bolt to clamp it down tight. GD

No offense taken - I was just talking - tounge in cheek man. A 5 speed is totally the way to go if you can't find an 81 or 82 4 speed. And definately the way to go for a rally-x rig. GD

Well - no actually you don't. I happened to have mine out, and that made the picture easier to take, but I just did this mod to my brat not long ago without removing anything other than the console. It's a pain to work under there, but definately easier than removing the tranny. If you use an 8mm bolt it will slide right into the existing hole in the shaft with no drilling required. Also - while your in there it's a good idea to replace the nylon bushing on the bottom of the shifter. They are around $3 from the dealer..... Also - for the record I wasn't the guy who invented this method, but I seem to have taken the best picture of it (that I have seen anyway)... hehe GD

"crappy" 4 speed huh? I can outrun a 5 speed equiped lifted rig in my wagon with my 82 4 speed (assuming similar tire size and such). And the crawl ratio difference isn't enough to really matter. The 83+ 4 speed unfortunately has bad gearing for lifted rigs..... *edit* Doh! - didn't realize you were talking about the single range. You do realize that your engine won't bolt to a 5 speed right? GD

Depends on the Tire Eric - in the case of your swampers that is true - that the tire size isn't affected by the rim size, but for tires that aren't rated in inches, such as a 205/75r14 vs. a 205/75r15, the r15 will be 1/2" larger in diameter! Even tho they have the same first two numbers. I run a 215/75r15, which is close to 28" outside diameter. It's like 27.85" or something like that. Pugs are perfectly fine, but I run a chevy 6 lug rim drilled for 4 lug because I like the wider offset I get (about 5"-6" wider track for the car) from them. Since I don't run a swaybar for better articulation, the extra width helps high speed handling on the freeway.... and it looks cool in my opinion. The chevy rims are also MUCH thicker than the pugs, and at only $25 brand new (in ANY size you want), are easily replaced should I mess one up. And they look somewhat similar to the original subaru white spokes... GD

As caleb said - 180 degrees out will cause the holes to not line up, it if doesn't go right in like it's greased, then you NEED more Anti-Sieze, and to line up the parts right. Try using a screwdriver blade or similar to clean the splines, and then a wire brush to get all the junk off. Then a LIBERAL coating of anti-seize so you can slide em right on. When they are properly lubed, and cleaned, they will actually be slightly *loose* on the splines! GD

Swapping just the distributor? Not sure that's a good idea, but if you know something I don't, then you will need to remove the drive gear, and put the gear from the EA71 disty on it instead. Also you have to remove the tab on one side of the disty housing. This has been done to EA81's when coverting to SPFI, but I have never heard of anyone doing it to an EA71. Also you need an EA82 disty from a carbed car for it to work correctly with the ign. system - oh and make sure the coil is the right resistance for the disty. GD

That's gross vehicle wieght *including* all cargo. You must subtract the cargo capacity to get the vehicle dry wieght - 3220 - 800 = 2420 lbs GD

Sure - I understand the utility of a WRX for certain things - the Elise was not designed to compete with it in that respect. However - for rally-x (assuming I could afford one, or find a replica), I think I would have to show up to the local track with a Lancia Stratos . One of the original Marlboro cars perhaps? If not that, then a tuned 4WD justy..... My taste in cars leans a bit toward the rare and weird.... or just plain shocking. Thus my lifted Wagon, and my Brat (which is going to go lower I think....). I don't want what others have - I want what they can't have. GD

It's about curb appeal. And everyone has a WRX. Who wants one? Not me. GD

Dealership.... hhhmmm - there's Lotus dealerships in most major cities. We have several here in Portland somewhere. They are considered "exotic" cars (strange, since they are british, and not very expensive), so dealerships are usually a combination of Lotus, and some other companies... Try here: http://www.mycar.com/research/car_cities/default.asp Back seat.... well there's an engine back there..... GD

You are SO right. As soon as I get a halfway decent job, I'm going to source a used one. For the price, they just can't be beat. I would also like to restore an 80 or 81 turbo esprit someday.... GD

Yeah - I got both numbers sitting here - what happened to your cell? This bites - now I'm the only one of the crew with a cell..... He's getting it dirty alright - and breaking **** too. I think he will be selling the tires and rims off it soon.... need bigger, and meaner tread to keep up with me.... Good thing we welded his diff. GD

I doubt the Lotus would be any worse than an XT. And being a mid-engine, it would probably hold up a little better in the rear.... especially with that fat celica GT 6 in it. Considered by many to be the best handling car IN THE WORLD. And with a toyota plant under the hood churning 190 HP on a car weighing 1700 lbs..... Price for an 04 was right around 42k I think... GD

Neck pain = GOOD! Everyone gonna get PAID! You don't want an XT - if you want a sports coupe, might I reccomend a Lotus Elise..... shouldn't be a problem after a settlement like that. GD