GeneralDisorder

4 psi is too high - stock should be around 1-2 psi. GD

Your distributor bushings are bad. Same thing happened to me. When they get REALLY bad like mine, and apparently yours, the car does lose a LOT of power. The tach jumping with no noticeable change in engine speed is a dead giveaway. These guys will rebush it for like $35 or so: www.philbingroup.com GD

If the oil isn't in the coolant, or on the ground, then it's being burnt, or going into the exhaust at the turbo. You don't lose a quart of oil in 450 miles and not know about it unless it's going out the exhaust. Your engine would be an oily mess after a bath like that. I say turbo, or valves, or rings. It's got to be getting into the exhaust stream somehow - I can't think of any other ways.... GD

Well - I thought the Brat had a bad Head Gasket, but now I'm not so sure. The engine runs fine - no evidence of white smoke, but I'm losing coolant, and the rate seems to be increasing. It's very hard to tell, but the oil might have a small quantity in it, but the most disturbing evidence is this: What could cause the oil+water to mix in such a way, and to collect on the underside of the top of the valve cover? (yes - it's so thick, it's defying gravity, and this was after sitting without running for over two weeks). The rocker arm assembly shows NO signs of this mixture - in fact I can't see any around the head at all - just on the inside of the valve cover. This is the drivers side, so the PCV valve connects to the valve cover, and that tube is also full of this stuff.... any ideas would be appreciated. I don't want to do a HG if I don't have to. The PCV valve is a BRAND NEW SOA part. As is the thermostat. She only overheats after the coolant level has dropped about a gallon, so the cooling system is working fine. GD

Feedback carb models have ECU's. They can be black or gold, and are under the steering column. The ECU in no way effects the timing on these cars. It's not capable of such a thing. It controls fuel delivery only using a coolant temp sensor, and an O2 sensor. GD

Less prone than an EA81 wagon - same stance, and less sheet metal on top, thus a slightly lower center of gravity. I've had my lifted wagon on some pretty steep stuff, and I conclude that the only way to roll a stock EA81 would be to push it off a cliff, or have the rim grab something hard in a high speed corner. However the rear seats were discontinued in 86 due to roll-over death lawsuits. The seats were only on US models anyway to get around import tarrifs on trucks. That's why the US didn't get Brat's after 87 - the tarrif was too high, and dropping sales made them not profitable to sell here. Other countries continued to get Brats through 94. GD

The DFV has smaller venturi's than the DGV.... GD

That's the 84+ grill that Qman shows above, cut to fit the 82 center lamp. Pretty sure he did it himself.... might ask him what he used to cut it tho.... GD

WHOA! I am running EA81's, so have never had this problem..... keep me out of the EA82 scene man. Hehe. GD

You mean the high-top console? Those came in Turbo Brats, and cars with power windows. They didn't come in all EA81 turbo's tho. Only Brats, and those turbo's with power windows. They don't lock either. GD

Yep - the grill you are looking for does not exist. You will have to modify an existing 84+ quad grill, or convert to dual headlights. If you look close at that pic, there's no grill there - your looking at the radiator. GD

I did give pointers.... but that is still my opinion. For what it's worth anyway. There's not many EA81's on the road that aren't worked on by their owners. To have a simple axle change done would cost half what the vehicle is worth many times.... it's just not practical for a non-mechanic to own. Of course I'm not talking about completely restored cars, or original low-miles rigs. I'm just talking about 200k+ mile cars in general. Not saying he's not a mechanic, just that he shouldn't worry about it so much. If it's going to happen, then likely there's nothing he can do about it till it breaks. All you can do is be prepared, and know as much about your rig and how to work on it as possible.... GD

I don't use anything - never had a problem. GD

Locking? How do you mean? GD

Sounds like you changed the wrong axle. GD

There's more to the redline kit than just that bit of metal. Buy the kit and you will understand. It's only $20. GD

It will make it. And if it has a problem, then you will be able to fix it. If you can't, then you shouldn't own it. It is, after all, a 20+ year old truck. Breakdowns are expected. That being said, my wagon has only left me stranded one time, and that was for a broken clutch cable. It was getting tight, and I should have listened to it's complaint - my fualt really. I've beat the hell out of that car off road, and it still gets me home every time. That's not to say I've never broken anything on it, just that I was able to fix it, or still drive it that way. Always carry spares of whatever you can. Hoses (upper and lower radaitor, and some lengths of heater core, and vacuum hose), all the belts, at least one front axle (usually a used one from the JY). Fuses, oil, water, coolant, carb cleaner, WD40, rags, etc etc.... GD

No - some GL's are 2WD or 2WD Automatic, and others are 4WD Automatic. Only the EA81 4WD Manual's had the D/R. Same goes for EA82's, but then you get into FT4WD single and dual range and a bunch of others.... GD

Same tranny, yes. Unless they are not the same model. DL's had single range, and GL's had dual range. They bolt up exactly the same tho. GD

I've done the EA81 4WD swap, and I can say that I will never do it again. Too many problems. I've posted about it before, so here's one of my old posts: You can do it. The tranny tunnel on the 2WD manual's is REALLY small, and you will have to cut and beat to get even the 4 speed in. The five speed would be a nightmare from hell to fit into a 2WD manual tranny tunnel. I think the 2WD auto's were bigger - possibly. Even still - you will have to beat on it for a 5 speed. Possibly not for a 4 speed if it's an auto. I never did get mine right - I lifted it instead and solved the problem that way. Check out the pics on my conversion: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo57 http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 You have to cut the shifter hole bigger, and mount the 4WD lever. The front struts are different, the sway bar is different, and the whole exhaust from the Y back is different. Here's a parts list I put together (more parts like the pedal assembly would be needed for an auto swap): 4WD gas tank 4WD rear torsion bar and trailing arms. Rear diff / diff hanger / diff hanger brackets Rear axles Rear drum brake assembly, and axle ends Driveline Transmission 4WD Rear exhaust heat shield (there's a cutout for the diff hanger bracket) Complete exhaust (at least from the Y pipe back) 4WD front struts 4WD front sway bar 4WD shifter, and shifter mount (welded in, but the welds can be drilled out) 4WD interior console's and boots (and their mounting brackets on the floorpan) All the nuts and bolts for all these parts If you have any detailed questions - PM me. GD

I've never noticed any difference besides the size of the dust sheilds, which are removable. When I build new rear axles (I've broken 5 now), I use the cups and joints interchangably. The only thing I can say is the axles SUCK. We are working on a fix for it tho . GD

I would look for vacuum leaks. Your description of it not idleing till warm indicates a potential vacuum leak, or bad adjustment of the idle mixture and speed screws. The stock fuel pumps work fine normally, so I would look elsewhere as long as you are getting fuel. The NAPA fuel filters (under hood) are made by WIX, and are clear so you can see if the filter is full or not..... GD

You have to unbolt the hinge from the door. It's important to NOT remove the hinge from the car if you can in order to maintain the alignment of the door. It's tight, but not real hard with a small socket wrench. GD

Just pull the head. You know you have to anyway, and you will probably be able to see if it was the HG or not. And any cracks in the heads you will probably be able to see with the naked eye. Only if you can't see any cracks, and the HG looked good would I consider pressure testing it. But I would might just put on a known good head instead at that point. Depends - what engine is it? EA81 heads are only $75 each from AHR here in Portland. I can't imagine you could get your head pressure tested and what not for much less. EA82, or EA82T heads could be more tho..... GD

When the engine is running, they are always powered. Did you replace the pump with a carbed pump? They are VASTLY different pressure wise...... the turbo pump should not work with a carb anyway - the pressure is so high it would flood the carb out. Get a Carter electric pump from summitracing.com or something. GD