GeneralDisorder

OMG - that last post is just plain SCARY it's so wrong. You sir, will be burned to death by the flames that will ensue GD

83 and 84 hydro engines came on automatics only, and ALL EA81's from 85 on were hydraulic. Sadly, 83 and 84 manual's (the most prevelant EA81's in existance), are solid. Now, previously I had thought that only the hydro engines had the larger intake valve, but it has recently come to my attention that ALL EA81's from 83 on had the larger intake valves. It's not a matter of hydro lifters or not, simply a change that took place in 83. That beign said, there is NO difference (according to the FSM's, and parts manuals I have) between the engine in a Brat and the engine in anything else. And that includes the distibutor advance. The advance curve is the same regardless of 2WD or 4WD. It just happens they used a different brand. This also goes for the cam - same part number there too. There ARE two cams listed - one for hydraulic, and one for solid. They are not interchangeable without changeing the rest of the valve train (rocker assembly, push rods, and lifters). The hydro lifters will fit into a solid caseing, but will not be removable like they were in the hydro caseing, as the block casting itself is different to allow removal. GD

There have been several reports of NA MPFI GL's that were not XT's. I have not seen one, but others on here have. Some 82's had the quad headlight's - but only 2WD's as I recall. 83 was the year that the 4WD GL's got the quad setup. GD

If you read it as if you are missing the first two digits, then you have a: 1980 EA81 Wagon The chart above is WRONG according to my 1980 FSM. That chart up there says the G in "f-a-g" is an indicator of the transmission, but it's actually an indicator of the plant of origin. There is also a G in the example in my FSM... Now - cross-refenceing that information with the models availible in 1980, the only EA81 based wagon that year was a GL Automatic, so now you have and engine from a: 1980 EA81 Wagon GL Automatic. Which, BTW, means you have the small valve heads. The intake valves got bigger on all EA81's from 83-89, yeilding a bit more HP. GD

Not cheap - just take your old one to: www.philbingroup.com They will make it brand new again for $35 GD

Yes - stReam - although a thin one for sure. No problem with you Scooby - it's Bill up thar ^ that thinks it would be really funny to provide a garden hose for me to play with. Apparently me steam cleaning my cylinders is highly amusing. Ha-Ha, very funny. GD

I guess people think that I have over 3000 posts here because I routinely hydrolock all my engines with a garden hose. Beleive what you want - but why do you suppose that engines with blown HG's still run, and pour loads of smelly steam out the tail-pipe? Because a little water in the cylinder WILL NOT KILL your engine. Water injection is used often to cool the incomming air, and increase compression. It both cools the charge so it's denser, and it also fills part of the cylinder with unburnable water vapor - this increases compression. It also cleans the hell out of anything it touches. That's why people use steam cleaners to clean nasty engine parts..... GD

Apparently you have never tried it then. It won't hydrolock because it isn't water - it's steam. Remember that the engine is running at 200+ degrees, and even higher inside the combustion chamber. A small stream of water (not enough to kill it) will vaporize instantly. Besides - ever heard of water injection? Beleive me - it works, and I've used this method for years. My auto shop teacher in high school actually showed us that..... GD

A lot of the XT's have MPFI without turbo. Generally with the spider intake. GD

Get a disty from the JY if you can, and either use the plate from it, or have it rebuilt. GD

My guess is that this pic was shot right after the new wheels and tires were installed for the first time. Apparently you were present for this historic event Zap? GD

You can backyard steam clean the cylinders by running a stream of water through the throttle body while the engine is held around 2500 RPM's. That will be a decent job of cleaning your cylinders, and it's cheap. GD

It appears (although it's hard to tell), that he has gone to either a 6 inch lift, or done the transfer case swap...... the front cross-member is awful low . Am I close? It has almost certainly gone higher, because those are not the TSL's that Ken was running before. They are too big, and totally the wrong tread pattern...... besides that, you can see the stack of the swampers in the background GD

You are missing the first two digits - at least from what I can tell. That was what I based my original analysis on. GD

Your not allowed to paint your car??!? GD

Not as easy as you might think to swap the dash. The wireing is quite different, and all the sending units (even the one in the gas tank) are different. Over here we have 100% 4WD Brats... and quite a few of our wagons were as well. Really too bad you didn't get the t-tops - that is the one feature that distinquised the Brat over here from all the other small import trucks. Datsun, Toyota, etc. GD

4th in yours is the same as 5th - so you will gain little, except at lower speeds, and for passing etc. GD

There is a metal ring on the back of the trailing arm spindle housing that is punched into the slot of the ring nut - keeping it from spinning free. I think you'll get the idea if you look at closer.... you'll probably have to remove the lower shock mount to get the axle off. That's usually how it is on unlifted rigs. GD

Fuel filter(s)? The primary and secondary jets are not used when idleing - that's the idle circuit, which is regulated by the mixture screw on the bottom of the front of the carb (might have a roll pin blocking access to it). Try removing that, and blasting some carb cleaner down there, and cleaning the screw. Check the operation of your choke too - maybe it's not getting power? Also - non-subaru PCV valves have been said to be not of the highest quality. The usual complaint is oil consumption tho - not rought idle. I've had vacuum leaks eminate from the carbon canistor before - try spraying around there too. I really beleive you have a vacuum problem - if you can't find the leak by spraying around, try removing the vac lines from the manifold one by one and plugging them with your finger.... Stuck open EGR valve? Just some thoughts as they occured to me..... GD

Probably not - snap-on I think makes one.... It's a wise investment if you plan to own soobs far into the future, but I've done several rear's without one. Generally I use a cold chisel to unstake them, and get them started turning. You could also make your own if you had access to a torch, a welder, and some proper sized tubing. GD

Contrary to what most people think, there really is not any emmissions equipment on there that will reduce your power. The vacuum lines are largely for the evap system (to catch fuel vapors that evaporate on hot day with the car not running - eg: in a parking lot). The only real emmissions bit is the air injection system, which unlike a smog pump, does not use engine power. It runs from the exhaust pulses. To answer your question, yes it can be done. You just have to know what each thing does, and why it's there. Once you know that it's easy to decide if it's ok to be removed or not. The Hitachi really doesn't have anything more than a Weber that it truely "needs" to run correctly - except the vacuum choke pull-off. The Hitachi is actually quite a good carb, and really not much different than a weber except for beign smaller, and having a vacuum secondary. The engine can be stripped down just like it can with a Weber. None of this applies if you have a feedback carb - that's a different ball game. GD

Hhhhmmm - sounds like you may have created a vacuum leak when you were in there changing the PCV valve. That would cause your rough idle. Spray around with carb cleaner and see if you can locate the leak while it's running. The lights I would attribute to a slow/rough idle not running the alternator fast enough..... It's possible that the jet is clogged, but not very likely if you haven't had the carb open for some reason. If that is the case, then you will need to remove the carb, and pull the jets out. They are on the bottom of the float bowl - there's a couple of brass plugs with a metal clip on them..... removing those will give access to the jets. GD

Well - since the word filter jacked up your post, all I can tell you is that it's a 1.8 station wagon. Why does it matter if it's a GL or not? I'm confused.... GD

They gave you an EA82 3 door caliper. Go back and tell them you have an 84 Hatch. GD

Depends on what you are doing with it, but basically the EA82 has more moving parts, and more stuff to break. Because of this situation, it's also more time consuming to work on. It's timing belts were improperly designed - lasting no more than 60k miles generally. They also have issues with their hydraulic lifters that EA81 hydro's don't have, and because of the bulky design, have trouble keeping head gaskets and heads due to heat. The clear choice for an off-roader is the EA81, but for a street ride an EA82 could be acceptable (although not my choice for that either.... an EJ22 would be my choice). GD