GeneralDisorder

It could - VW Scirocco's wieght about 1700, and they aren't much smaller than a Rio. Add some lightweight composite fenders and such, and the Rio could easily wiegh that much. They are pretty stripped down cars after all - costing less than $10,000. However - a google search yeilded 2447lbs curb weight ('04 model), so something in there must be pretty heavy.... safety equipment probably, and all that silly interior. GD

Jeez - I really couldn't tell you, and it wasn't on a Subaru, so it probably wouldn't do you any good. Was an older Ford, and it took a little over 2 cans.... Just trying to be helpful with my technique.... GD

I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about.... we are talking carbs here, not throttle body injection.... maybe we are mixing terminology.... Or are you saying you can make new throttle *bases* for the existing hitachi carb? If that's the case, then the answer is no - haveing a larger throttle base won't do you much good at all, since the venturi in the carb is so tiny. The size of the throttle plates is actually not very indicative of the flow rate of the carb - as we were talking about above, different versions of the same "32/36" carb have very different flow characteristics because of the different venturi sizes. The Ford holley/weber 5200 series has a flow of only 235 CFM, while the same "32/36" DGV Weber has a flow of 330 CFM - because of the venturi sizes. Also - the EA series Hitachi's are not all the same. The EA81 used a 26/30 carb, and the EA82 used both a 28/30 (automatics), and a 28/32. Just thought I would toss that out for reference.... they also have different mounting surfaces between EA81 and EA82. GD

Wish I could have brought my soob down. Show your jeep friends what mine can do . Sounds like fun - wish we had abandoned mining towns around here.... GD

Try a weber, and you will see what I mean about torque. The Hitachi is fine with throttle response. One of the biggest drawbacks is the vacuum operated secondary of the Hitachi. The progressive linkage of the Weber allows both barrels to be opened quickly. You are of course right that the engine can't really use the Weber to it's full capacity, but the progressive linkage and larger primary really help the low end. Also remember that the total CFM of the Weber is 330 - that's with both barrels fully open. When your talking about partial throttle, the large secondary is closed, and the primary is only open part way. So the CFM of the Weber rises more quickly as you open the throttle plate. This changes the amount of air that the engine is allowed to draw at partial throttle, and gives rise to the better torque at lower RPM's. Call it what you want - throttle response, low end - it's a marked improvment over the Hitachi in several ways. I use the term "low end" because as you have pointed out the high end won't be affected at all with the Weber. The engine just can't use it. Thus the improvements are to be gained on the low end of the RPM range. This has been my experience with Weber's. GD

I concur with Turbone - use the search. Hehe GD

So far I've removed the drivers side head, and no evidence of leakage was found. I suspect the passenger side head due to the direction of flow of the PCV system.... it's sucking the water as vapor (small leak I think) through the crankcase, and up into the valve breather tube. Some of the vapor is condensing on the top of the valve cover and creating the nasty snot you see in the picture. At least that is my current hypothesis. Removal of the passenger side head will determine where I go next with my issues. GD

Your are forgetting that most of us are not interested in the maximum volume, but rather the low end torque that a BIG barrel gives you. That's why people run dual 40mm carbs on 1.6l VW's..... GD

Oil pump gaskets don't always fix the EA82 lifters. Although it's always the first place to start looking. Sometimes you actually have to replace the oil pump, or even some of the lifters. It's nice if it does work tho. GD

That's weird. Must be a strange manufacturing defect. Never heard of that, and I kinda doubt anyone else here has either. GD

Yeah - the shaft likely got so loose that it impacted the magnetic pickup. Not cool. Glad your back on the road. GD

His problem IS electrical, AND mechanical. The bushings have too much play and affect the air gap of the reluctor. This is the cause of the jumpy tach. Seen it too many times. Depending on the make of disty (Hitachi, or ND), the shaft may have a ton of play and still work (Hitachi), or the play may be very small, and it will fail (ND). Mine was so loud, that you could hear the shaft vibrating in the cabin, and the tach would jump to 7000 RPM's with the engine idling along as if nothing happened. This failure is so common, that one need only observe the tach, pop the cap off the disty, and wiggle the shaft. If it has ANY play, then you have found your problem. GD

The problem is it's just as expensive as a weber, and no adaptor plate exists to mount it. The DGV Weber has a CFM of 330.... GD

Depends on what's wrong with the distributor. The distributor has half a dozen different purposes. It "senses" when to fire the coil, it runs the tach, it's responsible for timing, and it has mechanisms for mehcanical and vacuum timing advance.... sometimes for vacuum timing retard. The effects of bad distributor *components* can range from not running at all, to running very poorly or erratically. Binding or failure of the vacuum advance mechanism is common, although it mostly goes unoticed by most people. Failure of the distributor shaft bushings causeing the shaft to wobble or vibrate when turning causes loss of power, and the tach signal to jump erratically. The last *fairly* common problem is failure of the pickup coil assembly inside the disty. This can be anything from a really weak spark, to no spark at all. The first two are very common, and I've experienced both a number of times. The last one I have never seen personally, but I've heard from CCR that it's not unheard of. GD

The 32/36 DFV series is the same as the holley/weber 5200 series. It also has smaller venturi's than a DGV.... well at least the ford ones do. The Holley 5200 carbs on 70-82 Fords have a 23mm primary venturi. The DGV has 28mm primary venturi's.... CFM of a holley 5200 (DFV): 235 CFM of a 32/36 DGV: 330 P.S. Holley G180 is the Ausie version of the 5200... both are licensed from Weber. GD

You are supposed to use less of 134a than 12. When I have done it, I have filled them in small amounts till it got cold.... GD

You can't. At least I have never been able to totally eliminate it. Mine still does it on occasion - mostly in warm weather. Properly adjusting the timing and the idle mixture and speed are the key. 10-12 degrees, and an idle of 750 or so seem to reduce it quite a bit. Make sure you make ALL adjustments to the carb with the engine fully warmed and the choke pulled off. The reason I say you can't eliminate it, is simply because Subaru didn't either. The Hitachi has an anti-deisel solenoid, and the weber's have this option as well - at least the DGV's do. They cost about $20 or so. You can reduce it with proper adjustment tho. GD

Sure - you can order the bushings I believe. Unfortunately, the old one has to be reemed out VERY accurately, and the new one pressed in. I was told by someone experienced in subaru distributors that he ruined about 10 of them before he learned to do it right. Not something I have the tools for or the inclination to learn. Especially when the cost to have it done is less than $50. GD

Yep - that's what I ordered.... GD

Now I wouldn't say that :cool:, it's just that this particular topic has come up once or twice a month for the entire time I've been on the board, and it's happened to me personally on two seperate occasions. I've used Philbin both times and have been VERY impressed with their work. Both in speed (24 hr turn around), and in quality. They even shined the disty casting, and painted the vacuum advance canistor (had that rebuilt too). Really knowledagble fellows. While I have not experienced a bad coil personally, I can't see how that could make the tach jump to 7000 while idleing..... but hey - as with any ign. problem, it's always a good idea to check the whole system out. Take a reading with the multi-meter on it. GD

Well - the last Fel-Pro kit I saw was last time I was at Qman's place.... looked good, and I think that's what he's used on his EA81's..... GD

Ah! Drum brakes.... GD

It's a FT4WD with a build date of 8/86, which *should* make it an 86 model... but the FT4WD wasn't out in 86 was it? GD

Hard to tell. Test it. Any good manual will give you a resistance value to check it against. GD

Oh yeah - forgot to mention - New instake gaskets too. Just did those a few weeks ago. Same problems as before I did them. (I suspected a vacuum leak from one of them, so I did em to be sure - turned out to be something else). Also - there's no way I can see for intake gaskets to cause this - except for the carb base gasket...... I should check that out tho. I've had that carb on and off so many damn times it's certainly possible.... but the thing has had this problem since before I started messing with the carb. Yeah - I might just go buy a damn compression guage. I need one anyway. hehe Shadow - you read my mine on that too. I can't see real good, but feeling around I didn't see anything that looked "leaky" in the freeze plug department. Might have to take the head off after all if that's the case. Just in case, I've already ordered a Fel-Pro HG kit. That will cover me for gaskets in this job. GD