GeneralDisorder

My DL parts car (donated it's 4WD to my rig) is still a 2WD daily driver, and going VERY strong at 326,000 (last I heard). GD

Sounds like you probably have some corrosion of the cooling system - either in the radiator, or the heater core. You may have to backflush the system to get all the junk out of the heater core. Also make sure that you have the heater ON when doing this to make sure the control valve that controls flow to the core is in the open position. Corrosion might also eventually cause leaks in the heater core, or the radiator, so watch for those to appear in the comming years..... GD

I can see that I won't be living this one down anytime soon. Sheesh. Ah well - she looks better then a seat cover. More fun too . GD

EA81 (Gen 2): 80-84 Wagons, Coupes, Sedans 82-87 Brats 80-89 Hatchback EA82 (Gen 3): 85-94 Loyale's (Wagon, 3 Door Coupe, Sedan) The confusing part is that this is really a reference to the engine's they used *most* of the time. There are examples of Gen 2's that have the EA71 engine, and there is a single example of a Gen 1 with the EA81 (81 Brat GL). All Gen 3's have some form of the EA82. No Gen 3 ever came with an EA81. Gen 1's had several engines as well, including the EA63, EA71, and EA81, and if you go back far enough you will get into weird smaller engines like the 360 cars and trucks had. The Justy is also an "old Gen" car, but shares nothing in common with the rest of these - sporting a 3 cylinder transverse monted engine, and completely different body and interrior. There are actually two Gens of Justys as well as they changed the body style a bit in the 90's. GD

I'm 6' 2", and I don't have a problem in either of my soobs, but it's REAL close for me. I don't have a problem because my wagon has a sunroof, and my Brat has t-tops, so there is extra room. For 6' 6" - especially in a hatch with no sunroof, it will be very tight. Time for different seats. Moving the rails could help, and it's not hard at all really. Someone did that to the drivers seat in my parts car, and it worked well. As for why I drive a lifted wagon..... it's curb appeal. I get looks wherever I go, and wherever I stop people have to check it out, and ask me questions. I never have to wash it, it has no carpet inside, the seats are splattered with mud, and I can still pick up my date in it, and she's happy to be seen in it. It's a lot of fun off-road too. Maybe not as capable as a jeep or a big truck in some circumstances, but a lot MORE capable in others due to it's low wieght. And on top of all this, I can drive it daily because it gets 20 MPG or so..... GD

When I do em at home in my driveway, I usually take an hour or so. I'm slow when I'm at home - drink some beer, etc. And I clean everything very well - sometimes replace other stuff while I'm in there. I think maybe 30 minutes is close to my fastest time (had to pick up the Girlfriend in eugene, so I was in a rush). I always take my time and make sure it's done right tho. The ones they eat like candy are the "remanufactured" axles, and used axle from the junk yard. Now that I have a source for brand new axles that aren't terribly expensive..... a street rig ought to get close to 100k from a brand new axle - off-road will get less. Depending on a lot of factors - tire size, type of terrain you go on. Off-roading will destroy a lot of stuff faster - wheel bearings tend to get water in em..... axle boots get torn - same for ball joint boots.... GD

That pivot point is where the nylon bushing goes - it snaps to the bottom of the "pivot", and fits snugly into the little pocket built into the trans. There is actually two nylon bits in there - one on the shifter, and one inside the pocket - sort of a sleeve.... I've never had to replace that sleeve, but if it were toast or missing..... have to have the dealer look that one up....... Or are you talking about the rubber and nylon bits on the shackle that connects the shift rod with the stick? Only thing I've ever done with that is tighten the HELL out of it. I suppose one could get new bushings and rubber for it, but tightening it up is usually all it takes.... The hole IS heaps bigger if you don't have the rubber in there like you should..... maybe you have a broken rubber? Or did you just forget your rubber? As for the bolt, yeah the previous owner did that probably. The stock setup is two roll pins - one inside the other (no clue why this was done?!?), held in by a special cotter pin with a flange on one end.... weird little guy. Anyway - just chuck all that junk and get an 8mm bolt for that part... The 2WD ones - yeah, you can replace them by pulling up the console. Not hard at all. As for syncro's, you can try some redline gear oil - it helps some people.... but the only real fix is a new (used) or rebuilt tranny. Once they go, they are history as they are made from brass. GD

Braces? I don't follow you. Please explain. There are NO parts required other than an 8mm bolt and nut with some washers, and the nylon bushing if you need to replace it. This works ONLY on 4 speed 4WD transmissions from the Gen 2 cars (and the 81 GL Brat). GD

28" is my choice, and some drilled chevy rims. They are way beefy. US Wheels 70 series are only $25 each brand new. And brand new wheels are soooo nice to look at. Just my opinion. GD

Split pin, roll pin, spring pin.... I think those are all the same thing??.... just knock it out with a 1/4" punch or so. GD

Yeah - once you get the roll pins out, it's just one bolt, and she'll pop right out.... done forget the nylon bushing on the bottom of it tho. Its snaps on, and they wear out. Would be a good time to replace this $3 part. GD

Strangely enough, all the ones I've pulled apart the rod was worn, but not the shifter! Sucks because to replace the rod requires dissasembly of the trans. When I did the one on my wagon with the trans out of the car, I drilled both out to 3/8" and bolted it with a SS bolt (this is the one in the picture). That one is INSANELY tight now. Almost no play at all. The one in my Brat I just used an 8mm bolt, and it's also tight, but not quite as good as the wagon. Both are 500% better than what it was tho. I would just do the 8mm bolt unless you have a small right angle drill that can chuck up a 9mm or larger bit and fit in under the car.... you could take the driveline out (just four bolts, but lookout for the trans fluidif you do), and drop the transmission cross-member and that might give you enough room to get a small drill in there..... I wouldn't bother tho. 8mm is just fine, and most of the tightness comes from the slots, and the clamping effect that gives you. GD

Yeah - we have better movies on the way - if Ian ever gets them edited.... For front axle removal - check out this famous post by Ed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2576&highlight=edrach+axle Basically you need a 36mm socket, a big breaker bar, a 3/16" pin punch, hammer (ball peen works well), 2 lb sledge hammer and block of wood (for removal), and some washers and screwdrivers for installation. A torque wrench is good to have for tightening the castle nut, but not absolutely needed. Also a general selection of hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers etc) is needed to effect the removal / installation. Welded rear diff.... well that's usually done by someone with a welder, so unless you have one, or access to one, you will need to find someone with a welder to do it. Diff removal is pretty simple, and it's basically only labor to weld it up. There's no parts involved besides a bit of oil to fill it up when you install it. Diff welding is pretty simple if you follow a couple rules. When the time comes for you to do it, ask me and I'll go into details. If done wrong the welds can break and cause all manner of problems. The skid plate on my rig is solid 1/8" plate steel, and was made by a fellow ATLAS member - Ian. His board name is Bugaru around here. You should see *his* skid plate. Makes mine look pretty weak by comparison. His is hooked into the from bumper that he made, and very solid. Actually both of ours are TOO solid, as they have bent our engine cross-members. We are going to have to reinforce those as well at some point. GD

You can buy axles brand new - which is what I have on my rig right now. But for spares I pull axles from the junk yard. These are just to get me home if I do happen to break one. My new axles (autozone, GCK brand) are lifetime warranteed and I get a new one if I break it (haven't broke a front yet, but I've busted 5 rears with the welded diff....). New GCK's are $90 each - Junk Yards charge around $25 for an axle generally - but there's also your time to pull it..... One thing is for SURE - you will get VERY, VERY good at changing axles. Subaru's of our vintage eat them like candy. That's why I've opted for the lifetime NEW axles - especially since I've had REALLY, REALLY bad luck with remanufactured units. GD

Mine was also done by TWB fab. My front guard is quite sturdy - I've hit a number of things with it, and no problems thus far. His pricing is quite reasonable. Mine was around $100, and required considerable work to create and install because my rig was originally 2WD and thus has MUCH different bumper mounts. GD

85 wagon would have an EA82. Unless you swap it out..... if you are looking for an EA81 wagon, then you want an 80-84. But the 80/81 4WD's have EA71's, so really you want an 82-84 4WD GL. 82 is the best year because the tranny has lower 3rd and 4th gearing - helps with the big tires. Also - there's a LOT more to it than just slapping a bunch of parts on the rig and trying to climb trees. You WILL break stuff if you off-road with any of the clubs around up there. And you WILL have to at least be willing to learn to fix these problems yourself. A good selection of hand tools, and a few specialty tools are a must for your rig. Also a least one full size spare - prefereably two. A tow strap, a jack, and a few other things as well Certain parts on the rig can use improvement - the diff hanger comes to mind, as well as the front skid plate. I've even seen bent front control arms because there's part of the arm that isn't reinforced like it should be. You should always carry at least one spare front axle, and if you have a welded rear diff, a spare rear axle, and spare stub axles are excelent ideas as well. If you break any of these parts and do not have spares or the tools to fix it, your looking at an expensive tow bill possibly. Although I have always been lucky enough to have friends around that pulled me out, or loaned me parts..... it's stil wise to try and be prepared. Oh - and don't worry about it too much, because you will almost always forget something anyway. Take a look at my wagon over at: www.atlas4x4.com GD

Just checked my FSM - you're right! There was one - the 1980 DL Hatchback Automatic. GD

Hhhmmm - never heard that before, but I can't personally discount the possibility. 80 EA81's being as rare as they are and all (only automatic GL's), and being that 80 was the first year for the EA81, it certainly sounds like a possibility. Call the dealership and ask, or since it only takes a few minutes to pull the pump off (assuming it's not stuck bad), then take it with you and have the JY mark it before you go in showing that it's yours. Then you can compare them side by side. Although you might just buy it since I can't imagine they are real expensive from the JY. Never a bad thing to have an EA81 oil pump lying around - even if you can't use it - someone else probably can. GD

Gen 2 axles are all the same. EA71, EA81 - doesn't matter. Gen 2's are: 80-84 Wagons, Coupes, Sedans 80-89 Hatchbacks 82-87 Brats It should be noted however, that 2WD front axles have a smaller diameter shaft, and a smaller diameter outer joint. They will still fit on a 4WD, but they are apparently not as strong. Shaft diameter is 23mm for 2WD, and 25mm for 4WD. I've never noticed a problem running 2WD shafts in my lifted wagon, but one must figure they did it for *some* reason..... GD

Nope - 2WD is completely different. On those you need new bushings. GD

From the factory, it's a roll pin (two of them actually) and a cotter pin. Yes - you have to make the cut (on both sides), and them put in a bolt to clamp it down tight. GD

No offense taken - I was just talking - tounge in cheek man. A 5 speed is totally the way to go if you can't find an 81 or 82 4 speed. And definately the way to go for a rally-x rig. GD

Well - no actually you don't. I happened to have mine out, and that made the picture easier to take, but I just did this mod to my brat not long ago without removing anything other than the console. It's a pain to work under there, but definately easier than removing the tranny. If you use an 8mm bolt it will slide right into the existing hole in the shaft with no drilling required. Also - while your in there it's a good idea to replace the nylon bushing on the bottom of the shifter. They are around $3 from the dealer..... Also - for the record I wasn't the guy who invented this method, but I seem to have taken the best picture of it (that I have seen anyway)... hehe GD

"crappy" 4 speed huh? I can outrun a 5 speed equiped lifted rig in my wagon with my 82 4 speed (assuming similar tire size and such). And the crawl ratio difference isn't enough to really matter. The 83+ 4 speed unfortunately has bad gearing for lifted rigs..... *edit* Doh! - didn't realize you were talking about the single range. You do realize that your engine won't bolt to a 5 speed right? GD

Depends on the Tire Eric - in the case of your swampers that is true - that the tire size isn't affected by the rim size, but for tires that aren't rated in inches, such as a 205/75r14 vs. a 205/75r15, the r15 will be 1/2" larger in diameter! Even tho they have the same first two numbers. I run a 215/75r15, which is close to 28" outside diameter. It's like 27.85" or something like that. Pugs are perfectly fine, but I run a chevy 6 lug rim drilled for 4 lug because I like the wider offset I get (about 5"-6" wider track for the car) from them. Since I don't run a swaybar for better articulation, the extra width helps high speed handling on the freeway.... and it looks cool in my opinion. The chevy rims are also MUCH thicker than the pugs, and at only $25 brand new (in ANY size you want), are easily replaced should I mess one up. And they look somewhat similar to the original subaru white spokes... GD