GeneralDisorder

These guys are "willing to attempt repair on most any small DC Motor" or something like that. They do a great job, and are cheap. www.philbingroup.com GD

You mean like these? I'm sure it's just a trim level. God only knows what specifically tho.... Now - if you find one of these.... GD

From their web site. GD

As for removal tips - I just did this job on Saturday, and I can say that removing the windshield (10 minutes with a utility knife) will really make getting to the bolts on the top of the dash much easier. Of course you can't do this on your car, but at the junk yard it certainly would fly, and make your visit more enjoyable. With the windsheild out, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to get the dash out. I had never pulled one before either, but if you know where all the bolts and nuts are, then it's actually pretty straightforward. Remove the surround, and the guage cluster first, as well as the drivers side kick panel. Remove the glove box door, and insert. And remove the passenger kick panel/shelf. On top of the dash remove the vent louvers, and there will be three or four bolts underneath that hold the dash down.... various nuts and bolts underneath that hold the dash in place, and of course all the wireing has those wraps on it that hold it to the dash. Couple of zip-ties in there too. I just cut those. GD

Yes - the 5 speeds will bolt up. There's some modifications that are needed. Do a search and you will come up with lots of info. Ratios are very similar. The low range of the 5 speed's (except the RX D/R) is slightly lower than the 4 speed. But the difference in crawl ratio is small. The 4 speed is about 20:1, and the 5 speed is about 22:1.... GD

Huge pain in the ***** - you have completely different wireing, and since you do not have a tach, wireing that up will be needed. You would be better off taking the wireing harness from the donor car and just replaceing that at the same time. It's quite accesible with the dash removed. And while your in there, you should at least inspect your heater core, as that will be accesible as well. Alternatively, I have an 80 GL cluster here with the tach and everything that will fit in the dash you are looking at..... GD

Well - MorganM is talking about EA82's, and his information is mostly incorrect. You have EA81's so I'll copy a post that I made to someone else doing exactly what you are doing..... I've done the EA81 4WD swap, and I can say that I will never do it again. Too many problems. I've posted about it before, so here's one of my old posts: You can do it. The tranny tunnel on the 2WD manual's is REALLY small, and you will have to cut and beat to get even the 4 speed in. The five speed would be a nightmare from hell to fit into a 2WD manual tranny tunnel. I think the 2WD auto's were bigger - possibly. Even still - you will have to beat on it for a 5 speed. Possibly not for a 4 speed if it's an auto. I never did get mine right - I lifted it instead and solved the problem that way. Check out the pics on my conversion: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo57 http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 You have to cut the shifter hole bigger, and mount the 4WD lever. The front struts are different, the sway bar is different, and the whole exhaust from the Y back is different. Here's a parts list I put together (more parts like the pedal assembly would be needed for an auto swap): 4WD gas tank 4WD rear torsion bar and trailing arms. Rear diff / diff hanger / diff hanger brackets Rear axles Rear drum brake assembly, and axle ends Driveline Transmission 4WD Rear exhaust heat shield (there's a cutout for the diff hanger bracket) Complete exhaust (at least from the Y pipe back) 4WD front struts 4WD front sway bar 4WD shifter, and shifter mount (welded in, but the welds can be drilled out) 4WD interior console's and boots (and their mounting brackets on the floorpan) All the nuts and bolts for all these parts If you have any detailed questions - PM me. GD

DOH! When I drained mine to put in Redline the same key fell out (just one). But I've been off-road many times thus far since then and no problems. Third gear's syncro *somtimes* grinds on the downshift, but not badly. GD

Many of the vacuum lines and such have no clamps - I wouldn't worry about them unless you can verify by spraying carb cleaner around the connection that it is indeed a leak. It's unlikely that a leak is caused by no clamp - usually a leak is caused by a crack in the line, or a completely disconnected line. The EGR valve is sometimes guilty of this. You must understand tho, that in order to effect how the engine runs the leak must be pretty big. Small leaks are normal, and will not cause you much trouble. I can guarantee that if you spray carb cleaner directly on the throttle shaft of the carb the idle will increase ever so slightly. This is not a big deal unless there is a LOT of slop in the shaft. The throttle base is the cast iron bit on the bottom of the carb that contains the throttle shafts and plates. It bolts onto the carb, so is easily replaceable. You just have to make sure and get the linkage correctly set when you put on the new (rebuilt) one. A $30 rebuild kit for your carb, and possibly a rebuilt throttle base should be all you need in the carb arena. Fix whatever vacuum leaks you find, and you should be able to put it back in service for less than $100. Could take a bit of time to tinker with it, and if you don't have that then a Weber would be no better. They take time to properly install and adjust if you have never done one before. I agree with the above statements that you should find a shop that can do reliable carb work. The dealerships for the most part have no clue how to work on these carbs. They are just too old, and no one is trained on them anymore. Too bad you aren't closer, or I would take a look at your Hitachi. There just aren't a lot of people around anymore that take the time to learn how to properly fix them. Everyone seems to throw new Weber's at the problem instead. GD

Cool - so how is the SPFI fuel pump hooked up? I'm curious about the hard lines from the pump to the engine bay handling the increase in pressure. Since the Brat was originally carbed, and ran with 1-2 psi, and the SPFI pump is rated at over 40 psi (something like that anyway). I'm going to put the SPFI from an EA82 on my EA81, and will be in a similar situation as you. I had thought to mount the pump in the engine bay and feed it with the carbed pump but maybe that isn't neccesary? Any data you could provide on the strength of the original lines, and their ability to hold this extra pressure? GD

Yes - try another distributor from the junk yard. It very well could be the ign. module. GD

I agree with Ken - I have never seen a Hitachi that was "worn out". The dealership doesn't know what they are talking about, and told you that you get you to go away. The only thing that wears on the hitachi is the throttle base, and you can get rebuilt throttle bases from CCR in colarado for around $40. The Hitachi is a funny animal at times, and it took me about 5 try's to get the rebuild process down to where I could get good results..... but it CAN be done, and the ones I have rebuilt run perfect. The last one had 190k on it when I rebuilt it and I didn't have to replace the throttle base as it was still in decent shape. It's also very possible that your problems are not entirely the carb. One of the reasons that people get such good results with the weber is they do not understand what all the vacuum and purge lines do or how to properly troubleshoot difficulties of this nature. The Weber eliminates all that stuff, and then of course the engine runs perfect again.... GD

O2 sensor perhaps - I've had these go bad and cause similar problems in other cars I've owned. Try simply disconnecting it to see if the problem goes away.... If you have recently used any silicone based products near the engine bay..... it only take a whif of oder from them to ruin an O2..... GD

Crank the engine over - if it makes weird noises, then do something about it - otherwise don't bother. I've encountered all kinds of random junk the bell-housing on disasembly - there's usually an oil/dirt sludge down there that will trap it. Don't worry yourself over it. GD

Just wait till he gets into a soob - I bet the Audi's novelty (and expense!) will wear off quick. hehe. I have friends with A6's and S4's - I must say that some of the design aspects of the car are so increddibly obtuse and random that it boggles my mind. Non-replaceble ball joints? (must replace entire control arm instead.... and BOY do they have a lot of control arms and ball joints...) What idiot came up with this scheme? But I digress... On looks alone, I would go with a 3 door, or even an RX three door if you can find one. And if you like a few more ponies - try to find an XT-6. These had the 2.7L 6 cylinder version of the EA82 (known as an ER27). The ER27's can be built up to over 200 HP with no trouble at all. More than that if you do a low pressure turbo... GD

The fuel level sending units are indeed different - I forgot to swap that out when I swapped in the 4WD tank in my wagon, and the guage still worked, but was really wacky. Full was still full, but half a tank was nearly empty - stuff like that. Basically - the conversion can of course be done, but it's really too much work. Just fine a working digi. GD

Apparently, 4WD Brats are actually rare in Isreal. And if you are wondering, they did make 2WD Gen 1 Brats too. The brochure archive has a picture - Subaru called it the "shifter". GD

2WD Brats were availible only in countries other than the US/Canada. Isreal got a crap load of them apparently..... GD

Well - on start up they ticked pretty loud, and after the first 30 seconds or so got quiet pretty quick. There was still a tick till I test drove it, and after returning home it was gone, and hasn't returned. Looks like the adjustment procedure worked! GD

MUCH harder. Engine is wider, and longer. Frame rails have to be modified, and the radiator has to be moved. EJ22 requires no frame rail mods, and relocation of the radiator is not needed (although an EJ radiator ought to be fitted I'm assuming). GD

There is no need to vent the float bowl to anywhere in particular. It only goes into that charcoal canistor because of emmissions laws. Venting to open air is fine. Don't plug it tho. GD

Rear wheel bearings for all EA81 and EA82 4WD vehicles are either a single sealed unit containing two roller bearings and races and a spacer , or a three peice affair with a single race, and two roller bearings that fit in either end of that race. In both cases the two taper bearings are the same size. Under no circumstances should either of those bearings be a non-taper bearing. The front wheel bearings use two flat ball bearings on each side..... This is a rear wheel bearing *assembly* (1 per side): This is a front wheel bearing (2 per side): The only thing I know of that uses different sized bearings is the rear bearings on a 2WD - they are loose taper bearings and one is larger than the other. GD

Well - I dead cranked (no plugs) for about 30 seconds and nothing - then suddenly the oil pressure shot up to over 50. I pulled the valve cover and the spongyness is almost gone now so hopefully I'm good. We'll see later today when I start it. I'm meticulous about following procedures, so I think it will be alright unless some of my lifters are worn out. Seems unlikely tho since they were fine before, and only have 130k on them. GD

This actually doesn't appear to be all that difficult of a swap. You can order up some axles from CVAxles.com that will fit the trans so that's easy. The EJ22 is physically narrower than an EA82, so will fit in the frame rails no problem. All that's really left is to fab some mounts and strip the engine harness from a legacy. Some shift linkage and you are down the road. It's also been done both here in the states and in AUS. Even with Gen 1's.... the picture gallery has a number of examples.... Personally - if I'm going to do it, then I'm doing it with a legacy EJ22G and AWD 5 speed..... GD

I figure I'll dead crank without the plugs in. That will get it going fast enough I hope. I was under the impression that the procedure called for a 15 minute waiting period in order to cause the lifters to bleed down.... so which ones are correct - the spongy feeling ones or the hard ones? Seems like they both can't be right..... GD