GeneralDisorder

Yep - the grill you are looking for does not exist. You will have to modify an existing 84+ quad grill, or convert to dual headlights. If you look close at that pic, there's no grill there - your looking at the radiator. GD

I did give pointers.... but that is still my opinion. For what it's worth anyway. There's not many EA81's on the road that aren't worked on by their owners. To have a simple axle change done would cost half what the vehicle is worth many times.... it's just not practical for a non-mechanic to own. Of course I'm not talking about completely restored cars, or original low-miles rigs. I'm just talking about 200k+ mile cars in general. Not saying he's not a mechanic, just that he shouldn't worry about it so much. If it's going to happen, then likely there's nothing he can do about it till it breaks. All you can do is be prepared, and know as much about your rig and how to work on it as possible.... GD

I don't use anything - never had a problem. GD

Locking? How do you mean? GD

Sounds like you changed the wrong axle. GD

There's more to the redline kit than just that bit of metal. Buy the kit and you will understand. It's only $20. GD

It will make it. And if it has a problem, then you will be able to fix it. If you can't, then you shouldn't own it. It is, after all, a 20+ year old truck. Breakdowns are expected. That being said, my wagon has only left me stranded one time, and that was for a broken clutch cable. It was getting tight, and I should have listened to it's complaint - my fualt really. I've beat the hell out of that car off road, and it still gets me home every time. That's not to say I've never broken anything on it, just that I was able to fix it, or still drive it that way. Always carry spares of whatever you can. Hoses (upper and lower radaitor, and some lengths of heater core, and vacuum hose), all the belts, at least one front axle (usually a used one from the JY). Fuses, oil, water, coolant, carb cleaner, WD40, rags, etc etc.... GD

No - some GL's are 2WD or 2WD Automatic, and others are 4WD Automatic. Only the EA81 4WD Manual's had the D/R. Same goes for EA82's, but then you get into FT4WD single and dual range and a bunch of others.... GD

Same tranny, yes. Unless they are not the same model. DL's had single range, and GL's had dual range. They bolt up exactly the same tho. GD

I've done the EA81 4WD swap, and I can say that I will never do it again. Too many problems. I've posted about it before, so here's one of my old posts: You can do it. The tranny tunnel on the 2WD manual's is REALLY small, and you will have to cut and beat to get even the 4 speed in. The five speed would be a nightmare from hell to fit into a 2WD manual tranny tunnel. I think the 2WD auto's were bigger - possibly. Even still - you will have to beat on it for a 5 speed. Possibly not for a 4 speed if it's an auto. I never did get mine right - I lifted it instead and solved the problem that way. Check out the pics on my conversion: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo57 http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 You have to cut the shifter hole bigger, and mount the 4WD lever. The front struts are different, the sway bar is different, and the whole exhaust from the Y back is different. Here's a parts list I put together (more parts like the pedal assembly would be needed for an auto swap): 4WD gas tank 4WD rear torsion bar and trailing arms. Rear diff / diff hanger / diff hanger brackets Rear axles Rear drum brake assembly, and axle ends Driveline Transmission 4WD Rear exhaust heat shield (there's a cutout for the diff hanger bracket) Complete exhaust (at least from the Y pipe back) 4WD front struts 4WD front sway bar 4WD shifter, and shifter mount (welded in, but the welds can be drilled out) 4WD interior console's and boots (and their mounting brackets on the floorpan) All the nuts and bolts for all these parts If you have any detailed questions - PM me. GD

I've never noticed any difference besides the size of the dust sheilds, which are removable. When I build new rear axles (I've broken 5 now), I use the cups and joints interchangably. The only thing I can say is the axles SUCK. We are working on a fix for it tho . GD

I would look for vacuum leaks. Your description of it not idleing till warm indicates a potential vacuum leak, or bad adjustment of the idle mixture and speed screws. The stock fuel pumps work fine normally, so I would look elsewhere as long as you are getting fuel. The NAPA fuel filters (under hood) are made by WIX, and are clear so you can see if the filter is full or not..... GD

You have to unbolt the hinge from the door. It's important to NOT remove the hinge from the car if you can in order to maintain the alignment of the door. It's tight, but not real hard with a small socket wrench. GD

Just pull the head. You know you have to anyway, and you will probably be able to see if it was the HG or not. And any cracks in the heads you will probably be able to see with the naked eye. Only if you can't see any cracks, and the HG looked good would I consider pressure testing it. But I would might just put on a known good head instead at that point. Depends - what engine is it? EA81 heads are only $75 each from AHR here in Portland. I can't imagine you could get your head pressure tested and what not for much less. EA82, or EA82T heads could be more tho..... GD

When the engine is running, they are always powered. Did you replace the pump with a carbed pump? They are VASTLY different pressure wise...... the turbo pump should not work with a carb anyway - the pressure is so high it would flood the carb out. Get a Carter electric pump from summitracing.com or something. GD

My DL parts car (donated it's 4WD to my rig) is still a 2WD daily driver, and going VERY strong at 326,000 (last I heard). GD

Sounds like you probably have some corrosion of the cooling system - either in the radiator, or the heater core. You may have to backflush the system to get all the junk out of the heater core. Also make sure that you have the heater ON when doing this to make sure the control valve that controls flow to the core is in the open position. Corrosion might also eventually cause leaks in the heater core, or the radiator, so watch for those to appear in the comming years..... GD

I can see that I won't be living this one down anytime soon. Sheesh. Ah well - she looks better then a seat cover. More fun too . GD

EA81 (Gen 2): 80-84 Wagons, Coupes, Sedans 82-87 Brats 80-89 Hatchback EA82 (Gen 3): 85-94 Loyale's (Wagon, 3 Door Coupe, Sedan) The confusing part is that this is really a reference to the engine's they used *most* of the time. There are examples of Gen 2's that have the EA71 engine, and there is a single example of a Gen 1 with the EA81 (81 Brat GL). All Gen 3's have some form of the EA82. No Gen 3 ever came with an EA81. Gen 1's had several engines as well, including the EA63, EA71, and EA81, and if you go back far enough you will get into weird smaller engines like the 360 cars and trucks had. The Justy is also an "old Gen" car, but shares nothing in common with the rest of these - sporting a 3 cylinder transverse monted engine, and completely different body and interrior. There are actually two Gens of Justys as well as they changed the body style a bit in the 90's. GD

I'm 6' 2", and I don't have a problem in either of my soobs, but it's REAL close for me. I don't have a problem because my wagon has a sunroof, and my Brat has t-tops, so there is extra room. For 6' 6" - especially in a hatch with no sunroof, it will be very tight. Time for different seats. Moving the rails could help, and it's not hard at all really. Someone did that to the drivers seat in my parts car, and it worked well. As for why I drive a lifted wagon..... it's curb appeal. I get looks wherever I go, and wherever I stop people have to check it out, and ask me questions. I never have to wash it, it has no carpet inside, the seats are splattered with mud, and I can still pick up my date in it, and she's happy to be seen in it. It's a lot of fun off-road too. Maybe not as capable as a jeep or a big truck in some circumstances, but a lot MORE capable in others due to it's low wieght. And on top of all this, I can drive it daily because it gets 20 MPG or so..... GD

When I do em at home in my driveway, I usually take an hour or so. I'm slow when I'm at home - drink some beer, etc. And I clean everything very well - sometimes replace other stuff while I'm in there. I think maybe 30 minutes is close to my fastest time (had to pick up the Girlfriend in eugene, so I was in a rush). I always take my time and make sure it's done right tho. The ones they eat like candy are the "remanufactured" axles, and used axle from the junk yard. Now that I have a source for brand new axles that aren't terribly expensive..... a street rig ought to get close to 100k from a brand new axle - off-road will get less. Depending on a lot of factors - tire size, type of terrain you go on. Off-roading will destroy a lot of stuff faster - wheel bearings tend to get water in em..... axle boots get torn - same for ball joint boots.... GD

That pivot point is where the nylon bushing goes - it snaps to the bottom of the "pivot", and fits snugly into the little pocket built into the trans. There is actually two nylon bits in there - one on the shifter, and one inside the pocket - sort of a sleeve.... I've never had to replace that sleeve, but if it were toast or missing..... have to have the dealer look that one up....... Or are you talking about the rubber and nylon bits on the shackle that connects the shift rod with the stick? Only thing I've ever done with that is tighten the HELL out of it. I suppose one could get new bushings and rubber for it, but tightening it up is usually all it takes.... The hole IS heaps bigger if you don't have the rubber in there like you should..... maybe you have a broken rubber? Or did you just forget your rubber? As for the bolt, yeah the previous owner did that probably. The stock setup is two roll pins - one inside the other (no clue why this was done?!?), held in by a special cotter pin with a flange on one end.... weird little guy. Anyway - just chuck all that junk and get an 8mm bolt for that part... The 2WD ones - yeah, you can replace them by pulling up the console. Not hard at all. As for syncro's, you can try some redline gear oil - it helps some people.... but the only real fix is a new (used) or rebuilt tranny. Once they go, they are history as they are made from brass. GD

Braces? I don't follow you. Please explain. There are NO parts required other than an 8mm bolt and nut with some washers, and the nylon bushing if you need to replace it. This works ONLY on 4 speed 4WD transmissions from the Gen 2 cars (and the 81 GL Brat). GD

28" is my choice, and some drilled chevy rims. They are way beefy. US Wheels 70 series are only $25 each brand new. And brand new wheels are soooo nice to look at. Just my opinion. GD

Split pin, roll pin, spring pin.... I think those are all the same thing??.... just knock it out with a 1/4" punch or so. GD