GeneralDisorder

It's a CV on the outside right? If so then you must use a press. Beleive me it's like impossible without one. I beat on one for like 10 minutes, and finally got the joint apart but still could not remove the inner race from the axle shaft.... GD

It is, but the yard monkeys don't care, and it's a cannon elf so it's invisible when it's in my pocket GD

Set your timing back to 0, or even negative a couple degrees. You might have to get out and push to get going at a light, but your emmissions will dissapear. If that doesn't work, then disconnect the vac advance completely. Also make sure your AIS is in working order. GD

Usually this indicates a bad alternator. GD

I wish you had asked before they crushed the three XT6's they had at the 99W U-Pull-It. I often take my digital camera with me..... GD

Don't bother with a press. These bearings are not 'precision' anyway. They are BALL bearings, not roller bearings, and they are freakin huge. Very difficult to hurt them with a little soft faced hammer tapping. Just pound them out like we have all been telling you and forget about a press - it's costly, and all the dealership guys I've talked to don't bother either - they use a punch too. I've done three vehicles worth of these bearings now, and put thousands of miles on this method - do as you like, but you will be wasting money if you do it "by the book". GD

First, before doing ANYTHING else, you need to verify the accuracy of your temp guage. They are WAY more innacurate than you think. I just changed the guage cluster in my brat and the temp dropped 1/4 on the guage. Just because your guage reads high does not mean the engine is running hot. If it's not boiling over, and the radiator fan doesn't stay on all the time, then first try to determine an accurate reading for the temp. Replacing the radiator can be costly - especially if there is nothing wrong with what you have. Both my rigs have their original radiators, and I have no overheating problems at all. Of course you should replace your thermostat (cheap), and *inspect* your radiator and hoses. But don't go replacing things willy-nilly just cause you think the guage looks to high. GD

I use a brass punch and a copper hammer so as not to damage the bearing races. Done this job a couple times now - never removed a knuckle to do it. Remove the axle, and just pound out the old ones, and pound in the new ones. Use new seals too. Autozone was the cheapest for bearings last time I looked... GD

Gasoline freezes at about -80F, so your engine would cease to run. Not to mention the difficulties with haveing something *that* cold enter a combustion chamber - the aluminium and the steel expand and contract at different rates, and something below -300F would certainly cause ireperable damage in short order. Bad times. GD

Auto Brat - quite rare. Subaru Automatics of that vintage - bad juju. very unreliable, and the Brat's only came with the 4WD Auto - even more unreliable. GD

No - unless it came from a Brat or Hatch. GD

The feedback stuff isn't directly involved with the emmissions stuff. The feedback computer is only interested in coolant temp, and the O2 sensor - it has no control over the emmissions stuff, which is all passive with the exception of the air injection system. The AIS is the only part of the emmissions equation that even has moving parts (and even then it's just a reed valve). Basically the emissions systems consist of the passive evaporative system, and the active catalytic converter and AIS system. The EGR valve is the third system - used to reduce combustion temps. None of these systems have any connection with the feedback carb, whose job is simply to reduce emissions by regulating the fuel supply dynamically with changes in engine speed, temp, and mixture (O2 sensor). GD

Actually it's basically meaningless. You have to actually lay eyes on the carb to tell what it is. The stampings on the carb mean next to nothing. I bought a brand new carb from Redline that has the stamp of "DGAV" on it. But it's clearly an electric choke model, and thus really should be stamped "DGEV". The choke's are easily interchangeable and cheap anyway, so it doesn't matter much. What you really have is a 32/36 DGV "series" carb, and it can *be* any type of choke you want. GD

Dead battery or bad battery cables. That is the only possibility. Just cause you are getting 12 volts, does not mean the main cable is not broken, or otherwise messed up. That just means the smaller solenoid wire is good. GD

Vise grips. Grab the head and turn. Works almost every time. GD

Yeah - some german bike had one of the EA63's - the 1.4's in it. There was an article about it, and a big post on the board a while back. Do a search - maybe you will come up with it. GD

Sorry to hear of the demise of your engine Ed - I wonder if it could have been averted if only the coolant had not escaped. I must say tho that the EA81 in my Brat took a lot of punishment - I ran it with nearly no coolant at one point and the guage rose to the bottom of the red. The HG's did not blow, but it seemed to have warped the heads a good deal. At least having them milled was an upgrade of sorts as it increased my compression to 9.1 The engine is now running cool like it should, and no coolant has gone missing since I did the carb base gasket. What had happened is I had pulled the carb off, and it came away cleanly from the base gasket on the manifold. I neglected to use a new gasket against the manifold because the old one seemed in such good shape. It was, however, leaking on the underside of the gasket. I took me at least an hour with a razor blade and some sandpaper to get the 20 year old gasket loose from the manifold. I used new gaskets both above and below the plastic spacer, wire wheeled the base of the carb, and used gaskachinch on every mating surface and gasket - worked great, and hopefully when I need to pull the carb next time the gaskachinch will allow me to reuse the gaskets. If Ken doesn't want that engine, and you don't either, drop it at Rob's and I'll take it when I pick up the engine he has for me. I may have a use for it, and I do have an extra set of heads here.... Fel-Pro HG's are only $14 each. GD

Well - it seems that it was the carb base gasket all along. So I pulled the heads and put them back for almost no reason at all. Although I did find a slight combustion leak between cylinders 1 and 3, and the previously mentioned bolt issues got corrected and anti-seized durring the process. And of course the heads got milled so my compression increased, and the warpage is gone.... GD

I had a 78 with an 82 carb on it, and it ran fine, so I don't think there are any real issues. You might consider swapping the jets from the EA71 carb into the EA81 carb. Depending on the EA71 you have, you might even be able to swap the whole manifold. The later EA71's (fat case, hydro lifters, EA81 bell-houseing) had the same manifold length as the EA81. Oh - and you might need to use the throttle linkage from the EA71 carb too... GD

My Brat, and my wagon both had KYB factory struts and shocks. It's a mixed bag from what I can see. GD

Factory stuff is all gas to my knowledge - generally made by KYB or Tokiko (whoever that is). Just my ovsevations from looking at a lot of struts and shocks on Subaru's. GD

On the other hand, I can attest to three different sets of EA81 heads that were warped far beyond the limit. I have a set sitting in my garage, the set on my brat right now (had them milled flat again), and another set that's on an engine Buagru pulled from his hatch. In each case the heads were warped at least .006, with the limit being .002..... I have another set of heads in my garage that are not warped at all, and have the same mileage on them as my Brat's heads. Go figure. I will also say that my Brat ran just fine with heads warped three times the allowed limit, and the head gaskets were not blown. I thought they were, but was mistaken. Had them milled anyway before assembly - cost was $35 per head (same price for ANY aluminium head). Used brand new Fel-Pro gaskets, and nary a leak to be seen for the 1000 miles I've driven so far. I'm not careful with it either - I shift at 6,000 every time. GD

4 x 5.5" in case anyone is wondering. 6 lug chevy and toyota rims are 6 x 5.5", and this is why we all do the 6 lug conversion, or drill two holes in the chevy rims. Depends on the rim type if you can drill the rim or not. GD

Did you clean the contacts in the starter solenoid? If it's clicking then it sounds like the contacts are dirty. I also had this happen to me once, and the positive battery cable was almost broken in half at the battery terminal. GD

Just decking the heads .020 will pull the compression up to 9.12:1. Addition of the 1600 pistons should raise it even more. GD