GeneralDisorder

The only AWD tranny made that will go into the car is the one from a late 80's FT4WD (same as AWD) EA82T. The spline count is different so you have to have axles made, or swap the DOJ joints with those from a turbo legacy. The only D/R version of this tranny came in the late 80's RX (87 to 89 I do beleive) - it's low range is only 1.2:1, and it has a 3.7 diff so it's more of a rally trans. There is another AWD tranny that will fit - the one from an AWD XT6 - not sure on the spline count of that one, but it's AWD and has a 3.9 gear ratio. Some of the XT6's came with 3.9 LSD's in the rear too. GD

Wow - that's just devious Caleb. I hope SOA burns for this BS. Gawd I love my EA81's..... GD

Check for play in the stubs comming out of the tranny - if they wobble around then you have a bearing going out inside the tranny. Only thing to do is replace it or rebuild it. There is a front diff - ring and pinion gear - just as you surmised. Again - not really serviceable easily. Replace or rebuild the tranny if this is the case. I hope it isn't and you just got a bad axle. I've had rebuilt axle that didn't last more than a few thousand miles because the quality of the rebuilt units seems to be fairly poor from a lot of the rebuilders we have here in the states..... GD

Sounds like an axle to me - front outer joint's make those nasty clicking noises - especially going slow and turning - just as you describe. Check for failed boots - that can indicate a joint failure. GD

Actually, no - that's a bit high. The stock FP for the carbs is 1.35 - 2.06 psi by the FSM. But for a Weber your's is close to optimal. Although it's a bit of a mystery why your's would be that high. I can't imagine they would fail with an increase! GD

Not angry - just being helpful. So this "trick" of yours will fix the worn throttle shafts in a Hitachi with 200k on it? Or the gas-disolved gaskets and o-rings in it? Or maybe the crumbling accelerator pump? Also - revving it and sticking your hand over the carb could indeed clean out the jets, but since his problem is with the idle circuit, which is not engaged what so ever when the throttle plates are open, it won't really do anything now will it? No gas is flowing through the portion of the carb that is responsible for idleing..... besides that, we have not determined that his problem isn't a vacuum leak - and no amount of carb cleaning will fix that. GD

He said it does not blow smoke on left hand turns - just stumbles. I do agree on the PCV routing change because of the oil you described on the valve cover, but I also believe your pump is not keeping up with the demand of the Weber. GD

Apparently he already tried that. The whole ignition assembly is quite easy to remove from an EA81. You remove the steering wheel and the upper and lower column covers, and then there are 4 bolts that you can remove with a pair of needle nose vise grips, and the whole ignition assembly will slide right off the column. I can remove one in about 15 minutes.... maybe less. GD

Noobs are fine - and I answer lots of well-spoken questions from noobs all the time. It's the ones that think we are mind readers that make me wonder: "my car [note that poster makes no attempt to describe the model or year] makes this really strange click-rattle-splat sound every time I take a drink of my esspresso when the radio is tuned to KXL and I apply the brakes durring a left turn parking manuever. I think it may be associated with the wiring for my custom computer controlled boost inhibitor.... can anyone tell me what this is? I know some of you must have experienced this...." And of course the kids who's parents bought them an older soob, and who now want it to magically turn into a Ferrari - and at the press of a button turn into a rock crawler as well. News Flash! Not gonna happen with your budget kiddies..... Hehe - it's fun to wisecrack at them sometimes. I'm guilty of it. But if it's a legitimate question, or someone that really needs help I won't disrespect them out of hand. I'm here because I learn from this place, and enjoy contributing what I have learned from others on the board, and from my own research and experience. GD

Oh! you mean bigger offset? I think not - I'm running chevy 6 lugs - they stick out past my fenders ~3". GD

Your bunghole? Man, that's more info than I needed... GD

Fuel pump doesn't have enough pressure. The Weber needs 2.5 to 3 psi (some books sugest as much as 4 psi). The stock pump is only capable of 1 - 2 psi, and that's when they are new. I would imagine that a 20 year old pump is probably putting out the bare minimum or possibly less. The lack of enough fuel pressure is keeping your float bowl too low because the pressure isn't enough to overcome the spring loaded release mechanism. Thus your problem on sharp turns - it's leaning out the mixture on you I would guess.... GD

Yep - that means I have a lifted rig, and you don't.... it would seem that you speak from your bunghole then wouldn't it? GD

That's a very bold statement my friend. Ask around - I'm sure someone will be willing to tell you how big of a "wussie" I am. I have 3.5" of lift in the front with my suspension all the way up. I have 28" tires, and they still rub in turns - not to mention when I hit a bump in the trail. Where can you trim to make this possible? I would really like to see it. The floorpan sheet metal rubs on the tire - if you cut that out then you will have no floor in your car, and nothing for the door hinge to attach to..... And where is your lifted rig? I see no experience in these matters from your side either.... Seriously - you don't know what you are saying. GD

We are all guilty of it sometimes. It's cool. I've done it myself. I just try to stay out of the EA82 stuff personally, unless it's general enough that it would apply to any car. There are a lot of things automotive that are applicable to nearly any brand or model of car. I know a little about EA82's - mostly engine stuff tho. For example I'm going to be putting SPFI on my wagon's EA81 - so I've done a bit of research on that specific system. I've never tried to lift one however, so I don't usually comment on stuff relating to that. GD

It's probably pretty much the same - you just weld the spider gears to each other. 4 welds on each side of the assembly - 8 total. I thought I had a picture around here - but I can't seem to find it. GD

We all make mistakes, I just wanted to point out that EA81's and EA82's are considerably different in some ways. You can draw parrallels in some cases, and it's ok to do so if no one else has already offered the information - but always add the discaimer that your information may not be the same since the vehicle is older/newer. But when people like SubaruBrat and others who have done extensive modifications with EA81's say it won't work..... well you get the idea. I know you just want to help, but wouldn't you feel bad if you guy bought the 31's and then couldn't get them on? GD

A welder, and a 12mm or 14mm (can't recall which) socket to remove the rear cover of the diff. 10mm, 17mm, and 19mm sockets to drop the diff from the hanger, and you *could* do it without removing the axles, but a 3/16" pin punch to remove the axle and pull the diff out from under the car is a good idea. If you are lifted, you'll want to pull an axle each time you go on pavement - the stress from the bigger tires can break the axles pretty easily. On a stock rig your tires will chirp around corners, and you axles won't last as long, but I doubt you would break one. GD

Yes - the guages aren't accurate, but what troubles me about your description is the change in the guage while driving. It sounds, from your description that the change is fairly rapid? Some change is normal due to the oil getting thinner as it heats up, but you said you stopped and it returned to normal, then dropped again? How long were you stopped? Did it have a chance to cool off durring that period? GD

Dude - if you want some assistance with this thing - contact me. Hehe. First - that carb needs a rebuild, or needs to go away completely.... sounds like the idle circuit is jacked up. Either that or you have a vacuum leak. You can spray around with carb cleaner to locate leaks..... I've got an ignition switch with a key - $10 and it's yours. The key won't match your doors, but I'm betting you don't care.... I wouldn't charge you at all for it except they are hard to find... You may need an oil pump reseal - costs about $6 for the seal kit, and takes about 30 minutes to do. Really helps with the oil pressure. You might also need a new sending unit - they go bad pretty frequently. About $35 new.... GD

You sir, have NO IDEA what you are talking about. 31's with a 3" lift on an EA81 is basically impossible. You would need at least a 4" in the front to clear a 30, and even then you would have to beat the fender wells to death. I beat the fender wells so hard on my wagon that I couldn't close the doors (pucker factor = 7) and had to jack them back up with a floor jack to get them realigned. And that was just to clear a 28 with 3.5" of lift in the front. EA82's are known to fit larger tires - even stock - than EA81's. There are people running 27's with no lift at all on EA82's - just a lot of trimming. Just because it works on some EA82, DOES NOT MEAN it's anything like that on an EA81. You keep making this assumption, and I'm getting sick of it. Leave the EA81 info for those of us that actually own them. Stick to what you know like SubaruBrat sugested. GD

Disty bushings. There is no fundamental difference with the EA81 and EA82 carbed disty's - other than the mounting and the drive gear. Get it fixed before the reluctor smashes into the pickup and destroy's it...... pop the cap and check for play. Although you may not notice much. Your choke wire coming loose definately can blow a fuse - had that happen to me on the way back from WCSS5 - on the EA81's it's the same fuse as the tail lights...... Probably just conincidence that your noticed the two together. GD

HG's from Fel-Pro are $14 each from: www.pickproparts.com I've bought from them several times and had good experiences. Carefully check out your intake manifold gaskets, and your carb base gaskets - they leak often, causeing a loss of coolant and cooling system pressure. I blew a heater hose on my Brat shortly after doing the HG's on it. The Fel-Pro gaskets held. I lost EVERY drop of coolant, the guage pegged, and it was pinging so badly that I couldn't go over 35 MPH. It was 90 degrees that day, and I drove about 2 miles with NO coolant. If you had your engine so hot it wouldn't run then it's probably toast. Either the HG's are blown or the heads are cracked. I would lay money on it..... As for your intake manifold - try to get it off, but take your time. If you can't get the bolts out it's better to cut the heads off them and slip the manifold off the bolts. This way you can get some penetrating oil (not WD40 - something like PB Blaster) on there. Let it sit for a day or two and spray it down several times a day. Nothing good will come of a broken intake bolt, and it's better to cut the heads off than try to remove them as they always seem to break off nearly flush with the head. At least if you cut the heads off and slip the manifold off, you will be able to use vise-grips to turn them out once the penetrating oil has got them loose. Get another manifold if you can. I have one you could have for free but I'm in OR.... GD

Yeah - the back pressure from a clogged exhaust could account for the tendancy to idle for a short while, and then choke out. I had a very similar situation to Qman - I replaced the y-pipe on my Brat from a vehicle that had a blown HG, and had shot milkshake all over everything - including down the exhaust. It smoked for a good 30 minutes or more - filled up the whole neighborhood, and people were comming outside to see what was on fire..... GD

Well - white smoke certainly could be coolant. Is it losing coolant? Can you run it long enough to see if the coolant level goes down? A coolant leak big enough to cause a billowing cloud of white smoke shouldn't be terribly hard to locate...... intake manifold gaskets are a good thing to check, but if you don't find it there, check the oil to see if any coolant is mixing with it... that would indicate a HG problem. GD