GeneralDisorder

Very nice! Treat that rust before it eats the whole thing up. GD

I recall that "Chrysler Engineering" (Mopar), used a very similar color on their race cars of the late 60's and early 70's. They had two different colors actually - one was called "Blue Fire Metallic", and another called "Corporate Blue".... might have a look at those, as they are close but might be little more interesting to look at. GD

Well - it's pretty difficult to say what might have transpired. Not being an expert on EA82's myself, but having worked on them a bit, I still can't see that anything to do with the water pump would cause it not to start later. The knocking noise is somewhat disturbing..... it sounds like possibly you have coolant in on or more cylinders. Not sure how that got there by just doing a water pump, but I imagine that you filled the system with coolant, and possibly you had a blown head gasket and the water seeped into the cylinder after you fully filled it. I would pull the plugs and crank the engine over to see if you have any coolant in the cylinders. If not, then double check all your vacuum lines, and any electrical connections you might have disconnected. My guess is that you simply put something back together wrong..... what that might be I have no way of knowing without having been there. Is this engine carbureted or fuel injected? At any rate, for any engine to run, you need 4 things - air, fuel, ignition (spark), and compression. One of those is missing for you, and you need to figure out which one it is. Process of elimination can help here. I'm guessing you have air (air filter isn't dirty is it?), and you can check for spark easily enough with a paper clip. Compression you shoul have if it ran before, so that leaves fuel..... It's most likely a fuel delivery problem that is preventing it from starting. Either you have coolant in the combustion chamber, or you have a fuel delivery issue (vacuum leak, etc). GD

Legacy's came out here in the states in 90, and are technically "new gen", so you might ask this in the other forum. But basically axles and wheel bearings are common maintenance items on any vehicle. The engine if it was properly cared for is almost new at 166k. That's nothing for an EJ22. GD

14 pugs will fit without a lift at all.... just depends on what tire you put on them. 15's will fit too. With a 3" lift, you could probably run 27's without a lot of trouble. Although I haven't lifted a Gen 1, and I'm not sure where or how much you would have to cut or beat. GD

I have pretty much stopped going to yards except the "chain" yards up here. They have a set price list, and rarely have I been quoted less at the "dicker" style yards. I pulled a set of seats from an Impulse the other day and brought them to the counter. The spanish individual at the counter asked what I thought they were worth in broken english. I said $10 each. He shook his head. So I said $15 each.... at which point he laughs at me like I'm some sort of moron. I told him I could get any seat from the yard up the street for $15 each, and that was my price or I leave. He didn't really take me seriously till I started walking away - he called to his manager, who said he would take $40 for the pair. I told him he had his chance, and that I would take my business elsewhere. I left the seats sitting in his office. Another yard wanted $35 for a freakin axle shaft. I tossed it on the counter and left. Incidentally, this really screws them because the part you just pulled is now basically scrap. They aren't going to know where you got it, or what it came from so not only did they lose your money, but no one else is going to be buying it either. I think they see a clean looking white guy comming, and think they can bend me over. I know the mexicans and the asians aren't paying what I am, and that's enough to make me stop shopping there. The general principle I have found is that the more stuff you come to the counter with, the cheaper you will get it all for. I've made some awesome deals. One time I spent about 5 hours in a yard with a friend and ended up with a whole wagon load of parts (had to make 4 trips to the car with the stuff) for $80.... basically there was so much stuff in the pile that the guy only charged us for the big stuff, and then said $10 for the rest... GD

Oh - and as long as you are looking up stuff..... what kind of deal can you get me on an 84 Turbo Brat? I think sticker price was around $12,000..... GD

I concur - FSM is the way to go. The Haynes and Chiltons are so riddled with incorrect and incomplete information that they do nearly as much harm as they do good. I'm hoping that the 85-89 EA81 Manual is about the same price as that 82.... *crosses fingers* GD

Yes - 81 is Gen 1 for the Brat. Brat's didn't get the makeover that the other models did until 82. GD

Hhhhmm - my 84 wagon's power windows don't operate unless the key is on. Strange. Take pics if you can, and please post any info on the wiring you had to do..... GD

If it was running fine before you did the water pump, then I would say you might have introduced a vacuum leak when you were working in there. Spray around with some carb cleaner and see if the sound of the engine changes. This will tell you if you have a leak or not. Timing shouldn't have to be touched to do a water pump, so unless you messed with something you shouldn't, I would think the timing should be correct already. GD

Sure - it can be done, but no one makes a "kit" for it. The problem area is the rear end. The torsion bars are mounted at funny angles and are difficult to install lift blocks under. The best method, as I understand it, is to fabricate in the torsion bar from a Gen 2 car. GD

The Weber is better for take-offs, but neither one will do anything for passing power. The only way you are going to get more high end on an EA81 is to change the cam. Compression ratio helps a bit too. That being said, I have no trouble passing in my Brat. GD

13 lbs is the correct pressure for your cap..... I wouldn't put anything but a 13 on it. 16 could cause an over-pressure condition to develop. This might not hurt anything, but it might blow your radiator apart or blow a nice hole in one of your hoses.... GD

I would like the price on the 85-89 Brat and Hatch FSM..... At least I'm guessing there is one.... if not then the 84 FSM will do. GD

I don't use aftermarket thermostats at all anymore. Go with the stock 192 from the dealer. Here's my reason: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16277 Unless you have a modified engine, there should be no reason for needing a lower temp thermostat. That's simply a band aid. Make sure to replace your radiator cap as well. I like the Stant ones myself. GD

It doesn't really matter much frankly. Yes there will be less weight on the cross-member, but that will be held up with a jack anyway. The only thing that comes to mind that would be slightly easier is the steering shaft extension. But even that isn't hard with the engine in place. GD

How does it handle street driving? Or is it a trailer queen now? GD

When you buy Head Gaskets, Fel Pro makes a line called "Permatorque". I used them last time I did HG's, and they seem to work very well. I overheated my engine very badly (lost all my coolant), and the HG's didn't budge. Plus they are only about $14 each from here: www.pickproparts.com GD

Dangit! If only I had a turbo.... That idea rolled across the board a while back, and I thought it was cool at the time. I like simplicity when I can get it. That struck me as a very simple approach to cold air. GD

The difficulty you run into with that scheme is that the engine is driving the A/C system, and the more heat the A/C transfers from the condensor to the evaporator, the harder the compressor has to work to do it. With the A/C on, you are already losing power to drive the compressor.... I doubt you could get enough back with a scheme like that to actually get a net gain out of it. The amount of power drawn off by the A/C compressor would be more than the power gained by cooling the intake air. You might get a gain if you ran the A/C off of storage batteries and used a compressor from a freezer.... but the added weight of the compressor, DC inverter and batteries might hinder any performance gain there either. Although it would be an interesting experiment. I like the idea of using a metal container of dry ice as a simple intercooler.... GD

EA71..... my FSM says 3.8 quarts. GD

In my experience, older EA81's usually have a bad oil pressure reading due to crispy oil pump seals, and bad oil pressure sending units (when they start leaking from the bottom it's time to get a new one). With good seals and a new sending unit, my Brat (140k) settles down to about 15 psi when fully warmed at idle. Shoots up to about 40 psi or more at cruise. This is running 20w50. At the very least check those seals - a new seal kit is only about $6 from the dealer, and they get terribly crispy. The sending units are about $25. GD

Yeah - sounds like a blown HG to me. You should get Rob's opinion on it.... BTW - not a good idea to put water in a car that has overheated and has very little coolant in it. You should wait for it to cool down first. Rapid cooling from the introduction of cold water can cause serious damage. That actually may be what pushed it over the edge. It might have gradually run out of coolant and thus overheated - adding cool water could have caused the head gasket to blow or the head to crack. The loss of oil pressure doesn't sound good, but if you got it real hot, the oil may have just thinned out too much. Still not a good sign. If it has oil, and the oil pressure doesn't return after the engine has cooled down you should check the oil pressure sending unit, and the oil pump and it's seals.... if none of those are the culprit, start looking for a new short block as you have probably chewed up a main bearing..... GD

You rock dude. In a couple weeks I'm going to hit you up for an FSM..... GD