GeneralDisorder

I know without a doubt it won't work. The C/W looks nothing like that. It's got a really ugly mounting surface - irregular shaped for one - coolant passages heating the carb base and all that goop.... Take a look at any diagram. Not to mention it's rare, and a perfectly good, plentiful manifold already exists that has an adaptor made by redline - the Hitachi. If anyone wants one, I've got like 4 or 5 extra..... The C/W will always be the redheaded stepchild of the EA81 carb world - living alone in junk yards, sheds, and dead soobs. GD

The Matco one is only like $8 or something... but it sounds like you got a good deal. GD

Look for another tranny. Pretty sure I know where you could get one pretty cheap if you want another 4 speed. And the one from my Brat will be up for dibs at some point. Nearly all of them have some quirkyness, but it sounds like your syncro's are gone. The one in my Brat grinds slightly into second, but other than that is perfect. The one in my wagon grinds slightly on the downshift to 3rd, but other than that is fine - go figure. Rebuilding it isn't really possible without a lot of transmission knowledge, and some special tools... GD

Yeah - I think Cooper makes the Wildcats too.... this is starting to make some sense.... heh. On the other hand, if it's not your daily, you can get the Bias-Ply Interco Swampers for dirt cheap - I've seen em for like $89 a tire for the smaller lifted soob sizes.... Don't be sleepy when you drive tho - the howl will put you over the edge. Tough as nails. Like driving on rocks with the corners knocked off. GD

Wow - that is replete with the suckage. I totally believe you that it can happen tho. My friends 98 Audi came from Wisconsin - the rust was something else. We took the lug bolts (yes - bolts - it's a VW thing I guess) off and the wheel was rusted on. We had to drive down the street with the bolts loose and slam the brakes on a couple times to dislodge them. GD

If you block it off, you may need to move to a different temp of plug to prevent them from being burnt. The combustion temps will be significantly higher at cruise and if sustained for long periods (trips on the freeway) you could end up with white plugs. You may also notice a decrease in the cooling system effeciency at cruise. Make sure your cooling system is up to snuff before trying this. This includes good oil pressure, as the Subaru engines are nearly as much oil cooled as they are water cooled. Might have to switch up to 20w50 if you haven't already..... There's a lot of consideration that should be put into a change such as this - I personally leave it be. It doesn't rob power, it helps emmissions, and keeps the engine cool under certain circumstances - so what's not to like? You should definately give the EGR valve a good cleaning now and then tho. GD

Take that scissor jack and chuck it out into the neighbors yard. Get yourself at least a bottle jack ($10 or so) and in the front use the leading rod plates for either side, or to jack up the whole front use the engine cross-member right behind the skid plate. In the rear use the rear diff. Always make sure your parking brake is set, and NEVER jack on hill. As for the jack stands - in the front use the lower control arm mount at the cross-member, or one of the frame rails. In the rear use the frame rails. You can add a metal or wooden shim (1/4" thick at most) to prevent damage to the frame rails. GD

The problem with the Sear's set you linked to is that the E10 in that set is a 3/8" drive, and won't fit into the stub axle.... I've found tons of E10's for sale online and locally, but was unable to locate any other dealers that carried the 1/4" drive E10. It's extremely thin wall, and I went with the Matco because it's impact rated - those suckers can be a real beotch to break loose..... GD

1/4" drive E10 torx socket..... Snap-On and Matco are the only places I know you can get one. I like the Matco because it's impact rated - Matco part#A10XRA GD

Those are probably just a rebrand of something more familair..... they appear nealy identical to a Les Shwabb Wildcat EXT..... which is a great tire (my only problem with them is thin side-walls.... only 4 ply.). If you can get the 215's cheaper than about $110 each mounted an balanced than you can beat Les.... Keep us updated and find a dealer! My current tires are the Hankook RT01.... basically a similar design, but cheaper, and they have a 6 ply design like the BFG MT's. Haven't punctured one yet, and they only cost me $99 a tire mounted and balanced. The price wasn't really the object, it was the ply rating that swayed me.... just for comparison - Interco Swampers are 10 ply. Considerably more expensive tho. GD

What is this "rust" you speak of? In Oregon, we have nothing like this.... GD

DOH!

Wrong bolt pattern. GD

I for one will NEVER buy another remaned axle. They suck - period. The reason is that no remanufacturer ever replaces the outboard housing and the inner race. They replace the cage, and the ball bearings and repack them with grease. This technique may be fine for most brands of axles, but with Subaru in particular it seems to shorten their life span considerably. Remanufacturers are in this to make money - end of subject. If they replaced all the parts with new ones all the time, then they wouldn't make any. And with BRAND NEW axles costing only $89 from Autozone, and the ability to return them locally using only your phone number, a lifetime warrantee, and a guarantee of getting 4WD axles (since they fit the 2WD's, GCK only makes the 4WD axle)...... it really seems a no brainer. Why waste your time for a mere $25?? On a stock rig, assuming the boot remains unbroken, or is replaced and the axle properly filled with grease in a prompt fassion, you should get a good 80 to 100 thousand miles from an axle. The last remaned unit I installed lasted about 10..... GD

Yep - you have the right idea now. I would sugest having freak help you with removing it as it's rather tricky and the bolts tend to snap off in the head - they get rusty from exposure to coolant. GD

You have (I think) a 1 barrel Carter/Weber. The Hitachi only came as a 2 barrel. In order to fit the DGV or the DFV you will need the intake manifold from a Subaru that came with the Hitachi. No one makes an adaptor (including Cameron) for the manifold you have, so if you want a Weber, it has to go. GD

Remaned CV's suck - I've even heard of ones that were shipped without any grease..... GD

Difficult due to completely different wireing, and differeing sending units. You need an analog cluster, analog fuel sending unit, analog temp sending unit, and an analog oil pressure sending unit (you don't have one at all right now, nor the wiring for it). You also need wireing diagrams for both types (FSM is the only place you'll find them I'm afraid), and a LOT of patience. It can be done, but it's nearly impossible to get it totally working in every respect. It would actually be much easier to install after market guages for everything. GD

DFV series - good for EA82's (on EA81's the DGV works fine), but you have to watch the venturi sizes - they are smaller than the DGV's. Other than a few minor differences like that, they are essencially a mirror image of the DGV. GD

Hhhmmm - looks like this would be lots easier on an EA81 - no problems with space there..... Many other more difficult problems with fuel delivery tho. GD

Yeah - 3/16" pin punch, or an appropriate sized drill bit - but watch out as they explode if the pin doesn't come out easy. I've had drill bit bits embedded in my hand - that's the day I invested $8 in a real punch..... GD

Yeah - that's a tough procedure to find - the generic manuals don't cover it. Here it is from one of my FSM's (complete with crappy japanese translation ): (Note that you do this to the valves when they are in the slack position, with the cylinder you are adjusting at TDC on the compression stroke.... [and you don't need the silly tool - 6" crescent wrench works just fine]) a. Raise up the bend of the lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. b. Leave it with the valves opened for approx 15 minutes. c. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of the valve. This condition is called "Zero Point". d. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by another 1.5 turns. e. Tighten the lock nut and bend the lock washer. GD

Just remove the rear axle - two roll pins, and they slide right off (except for the rust of course). You don't need it to drive in 2WD. GD

Hate to inform YOU, but this is EA81 land, not Leganus land. EA81's are 4WD, not AWD, and thus still only have 2 axles pushing the car when in 2WD mode. Not to mention that EA81 axles are WAY thicker than any EA82 or Leganus axle. Besides that here's the data from the FSM: If you want more proof, I can take pictures of the 20 or so odd axles in various states of assembly in my garage.... I spend hours at the JY dissasembling them in the Subaru isle. My freinds have started calling me the "Axlemaster".

Well - it's not *just* axles that you could break - you might break a diff stub axle too. I doubt you would break the diff itself, but if you twist a stub axle in half, it could be really ugly to remove. The splines can get bent and lock themselves into the splines inside the diff. If you want to run on pavement, you need AWD. GD