GeneralDisorder

If you wish it, I can look for the legacy bit in the JY's around here. We have had a LOT of them showing lately. '95 isn't out of the question at all. Price..... is it small enough for me to pocket?? heh. We can work something out.... Especially with all the carnage I seem to bring with my posts. Sorry about that. Hit me up with a PM. GD

I would not stick an easy out in there. Busted off tool-steel in your bolt is going to make your pucker factor even higher (as if you haven't ripped the fabric from your seat already reading the previous posts ). Wow. That's all I have to say about that. Grind the surface that you can see as flat as possible - measure to the center of the bolt, and mark with a felt pen. Line up the center punch REALLY carefully (repeat about 1000 times to MAKE SURE). If you don't get that punch dead center you will have a huge mess on your hands. If you can get it lined up tho, you should be able to drill that puppy out. I would work my way up with bigger and bigger bits till you can finally run a tap in to clear out the original threads. Use a band of tape on the drill bit to determine the proper depth - you should be able to figure out how much bolt is broke off in there by looking at the broken peice you have.... If you do bung the threads, go a size over in STD rather than metric, as it will be just slightly larger. Lotsa luck to you. On a scale of 1-10, that's easily a pucker factor 8. It's also the funniest thing I've read all day. GD

You'll get no arguments from me anymore. Cause you are always right. BTW - in the future, I would appreciate it if you would call me a "wuss" in person. It'll be a lot more fun for me. GD

And you will continue to hear it a lot - whenever I realize the other party of an agument isn't worth my time. GD

Thanks Jared. GD

Subaru (back in the day), had the forethought to steal a LOT of good ideas. In fact, I can't think of anything they didn't steal from someone. The Japanese were real good at that. They didn't have the money to research new tech, nor the ability to risk new tech on an already soft market here in the US. Their products had to be both cheaper and more reliable than the domestic competition even with the added cost of shipping across the ocean. GD

They discontinued the Hill Holder system for a while, but I understand it's back on some of the newer models availible now. Pretty much all the Subaru's with manual transmissions of the 80's had the HH. I think some of the DL's and STD model's perhaps did not. This was actaully not an original Subaru concept. It was first seen on the Studebaker. Subaru just stole the idea. GD

Are you *sure* the cable was routed correctly? The only time I've had them "stretch" is right before they snap.... GD

Check the codes from your computer - it will tell you what is wrong. GD

I run the MT-90 personally. It's great stuff. GD

Ok - your right - I'm wrong. You win. Actually - I have installed several lifts, and redesigned my own after the initial install was done for me. GD

Check for power at the motor. IIRC, the motor should have power at all times, and gets grounded by the switch. Check your ground connections for the wiper motor, and check the switch on the column surround. Might be dirty switch contacts, might be a ground issue. If you need the motor, someone here can come up with a used one. I can pull one from a local yard if you want. GD

Huh - well that's how it is here in the US anyway. Those crazy Europeans anyway.... GD

Fine by me - keep your manual rack - more power racks for me. EVERYONE who has driven my wagon off-road swears they will never build another one without it. It's not about turning force - it's about the buffering action that stops the wheel from being jerked out of your hands. A 4 runner has no bearing on this conversation - it has completely different caster, different turn ratio's in the rack, and different steering linkage. You can't compare them at all. Even attempting to compare the two is just plain ignorant. GD

So what exactly does a 4-runner with 31's have to do with an EA81? GD

E-10 torx. Must be 1/4" drive. You can get it from Snap-On, Matco, etc. GD

Power steering is totally the way to go. Seriously. It gives you so much more control off-road - it's like a different car. Sounds like you need to get your u-joints farther apart. More distance = less angle. Shorten the peice that attaches to the rack, and shorten the column, then try it. GD

No - he's talking about the difference between an EA81 and an EA82 to us. Subaru refers to the whole EA82 line ('85-'94) as the "Loyale". The Leone is the '80-'84 EA81 body. Completely different cars. I don't see why this naming convention wouldn't hold for Austria - but who knows. GD

You don't understand - He's putting a rebuilt EA81 into his '86 cause the EA82 is dead. GD

For the right speaker, I installed a 3x5 - I got a blaupunkt that just barely fits between the mounting studs. I had to dremel it's plastic mounting frame so the studs would clear, and then I just threaded the old nuts back on the studs. Works great. The left speaker I haven't messed with yet, but it's a totally weird size, in a very small space, so it will be a challenge. Depending on the year, you may or may not have door speakers, and you may or may not have the driver's side speaker in the dash. '82 models only came with 1 speaker! GD

The EA81 is far superior to the EA82 in my opinion. I think you got a decent deal. As for HP - no. Won't change appreciably. Torque will be better on the low end, but your high end is not limited by the fuel system. Your limit is the cam, and bad flowing heads. $100 for everything you needs sounds more than reasonable to me. I say go for it. It's no small amount of work, but when you are done you'll have the best of both worlds - the bulletproof FI, and the bulletproof pushrod engine. Now that's a winning combo. GD

You have made the mistake of compareing a computer controlled automatic transmission, with a human controlled manual..... Not only that, but the Volvo's mileage goes in the toilet if you get on that turbo. I had that same engine in my '94 850T - except making 250 HP or so. Very little turbo lag, yes - and the automatic keeps you from spooling it except when you mash it to the floor - but when it spools, damn was it fast! Watch the fuel guage drop like there was a crew of russian cosmonauts under the hood drinking it by the 5th. The manual in the Forester means the turbo will be spooled WAY more often. GD

As you can see - there is a LOT to consider. Hehe GD

I personally haven't done it, but Skip did, and we talked at length about it over email. He was concerned that I didn't have a return fitting - that it might damage my pump, and sugested I use the Hitachi barb. So far it hasn't hurt me not having the return, so I'm sticking with my stock Weber fitting. Now that's not to say that your Weber's casting isn't different than the ones that come in the Subaru kit.... But I would think it's the same, you just need to run a tap in there to make the threads for the barb. Or like you said - find a press fit one. Personally, I would go buy a grade 8 bolt the same size and thread as the barb, take a die grinder and make my own tap out of it. It's just aluminum after all..... GD

Fuel barb from the Hitachi will work. GD