GeneralDisorder

The sticker on the valve covers is gold (sometimes they look silver when the gold wears off, or fades.). 83/84 Automatics, and all 85 and newer EA81's are hydro lifter. Additionally, all 85 and up EA71's are hydro as well. There is a way to tell from the block casting, but it's difficult to describe without pictures. You can't tell from the head casting because the same "large valve" heads were also used on solid lifter EA81's in 83 and 84 (and I imagine on JDM models at some point as well - might have been earlier tho). So that leaves the "educated" block casting inspection, or a slightly more invasive approach. I won't describe the casting differences because without pictures it's just not going to be very helpful. Best thing to do then is remove the valve cover (have a new valve cover gasket ready, as the old one will probably come off in peices), and inspect the valve adjusters. The hydro lifter models have lock tabs on a special washer under the jam nut of the adjuster. Solid lifter models do not have these. Also look at the ends of the pushrods - they should be smooth with no "knurling" at the ends. The solid lifter pushrods are subtley different. If you still have doubt, drop the oil pan and look at the lifter bore's with a mirror - if the lifter can be removed from the block then you absolutely have a hydro lifter engine. If you still cannot determine what you have, I'll try to take pictures of the differences in the block castings for you. GD

Gen 2's are more friendly, and Gen 3's and 4's are even better. Converting an EA81 can be done (I've done it), but it's not "easy" - takes a bit of work. Converting EA82's actually is pretty straightforward, as is converting a legacy apparently. As Subaru got more into the 4WD and AWD game, the differences between the 2WD and 4WD models became more and more modular to save costs. Unfortunately, the first gen was just too different to really make it feasible. GD

I concur - I looked into this as well with the 78 2WD I have, and the frame is different. You *could* do it, but you would end up cutting a pasting a lot of metal, and the structure of the car would have to be modified to make it strong enough. GD

Just follow the metal tube from the exhaust spacer up to it. The big chunk of alumninium is the valve. GD

Just an alternative that's cheaper than the heli-coil kits.... you can run a 7/16" x 20 tap into the existing hole with no drilling at all. Buy a tap, and a bottoming tap (or just cut the end off of a regular tap to make your own), and just run them in there. This avoids drilling, which you would have to do with the heli-coil kit, and it's much cheaper (about $10-$12 for the taps, versus $30 - $40 for the heli-coil kit). Going up a size makes it stonger too. And if you decide you don't like it later, you can always still do the heli-coil! You can then replace the old stud with either a stud or a bolt - use stainless if you can get it. And don't forget a flat washer and lock washer as well. GD

I'm sure PK can hook you up. It's a simple matter to make the kit any size you want really (between 0" and 5" anyway - above that, and you will have other issues). He'll just use 2" square tube instead of 3", and it will probably be cheaper since the material is cheaper, the bolts are cheaper, and the kit will weight less for shipping.... but you'll have to ask him about it. GD

So from what I can gather of your post, you are concerned that the CV boot (the rubber part) is cracked? Is the boot actually broken open or just cracking from age? Small cracks in the surface of the rubber are normal for old boots, and they could last a considerable amount of time before they fail. It would of course be an excelent idea to have the boots replaced if they are showing age, and definately have them replaced if they are broken open. There are split boots manufactured that can be glued/bolted/zippered etc together, but they rarely last very long and no one will recommend you use them. The axle (assuming it's still good and not making noises) can be rebooted with new boots and new grease. The parts are trivially inexpensive, I think around $7 to $12 depending on where you buy the boots, per boot. So at most you are looking at $25 per axle in parts. Labor is a different story, as the axle must be removed (or if you are really good and know subaru's, it can be done by just pulling the innter joint off the transmission), so you are looking at approximately 30 minutes to an hour of labor for each side - depending on the skill of the mechanic. Figure about $50 in parts and new grease, and a couple hours shop time at the most. Dealership shop time rates are going to be around $80 per hour, while non-dealerships will probably be cheaper. The other option is to just have new axles installed.... since the axles have to come out to be rebooted anyway, it might be worth it if you plan to pay for shop time to have it done. The labor is essencially the same either way. Autozone sells brand new axles for $90 each. Get the NEW ones, not the remaned units. Check with the owner to see when the last time the timing belts were done - they are due every 60k miles, and usually the tensioners, main seals, cam shaft seals, and the water pump are wanting serviced at that time as well. Full timeing belt procedure and all labor would be around $300 - $600 depending on where you go and what all is done. On another note, you can pick up a used distributor for your 87 (that thing that the cap attaches to), and have your "guy" install it. Try the marketplace here on this board - you'll probably find someone with one for $50 or less. If all else fails, you can get a rebuilt one from roo-builders in Colorado for around $150 http://www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/ GD

Sounds like it's time for a carb rebuild. You might have junk in the float bowl - the Hitachi's don't like that, as the jets act like a drain in the bottom of the bowl, and anythign in there will drain right into them. At any rate, your description of messing with the carb and seafoam etc just strikes me as an indication that your problem is probably mostly carb related. If messing with the carb causes the symtoms to change, then it's time for a rebuild I would say. GD

2500 - 3500 will give you generally the best fuel econemy. Depends on *what* '88 you are talking about - wagon, 3 door, XT, RX, etc. Some have different gearing than others. Generally speaking, soobs like high RPMS. The experimental aircraft guys run the EA81's at 7000 or more for hours at a time. This is of course only done with improved cooling systems - both oil and water. 4 or 5 thousand (or even shifting at 6) isn't going to hurt the engine. The short stubby rods are very well designed for high RPM's. GD

Ebay is a good starting place. You can contact WJM - he works at a Subaru parts department, and can get manuals. Not much online for an EA82. There is a recent post on here about online manuals with a few good links to some PDF's, but not much that directly applies I don't think. Worth a look perhaps. GD

Factory roofs however, are pretty bulletproof. The one in my 84 doesn't leak a drop, and neither have any of the T-tops on Brat's I've encountered. GD

Yep - that's their tactic - they will try to starve you out. Get another CHEAP car quick so they can't. Then it's just a waiting game. GD

I heat that! Working on military rigs has given me a healthy respect for weight. One person cannot lift a wheel and tire into place by himself on a deuce - you need a wheel lift! The axle nuts are 3.5 and 4 INCH sockets. We have a torque wrench that's 5 feet long for those..... Batteries are a two man lift, The generators (not alternators even) are so heavy you need a couple guys to hold them in place while you get the bolts started. Dry weight on one of these "small" military trucks is over 20,000 lbs. GD

Interesting - all the GL models here got the delay wipers - DL's did not.... I think you need the control module for it as well. I don't think there's any difference with the motor, but I could be wrong. Switch is just a switch - I know it's not in there. There's probably an extra relay, and a delay module in there somewhere for it. You could probably come up with your own wireing if you figure out what the part is that does the delay function. GD

Just drill and tap the sleeve for some of those little black set screws, and grind a flat spot on the shaft for them. They have sharp ridges, and will dig into the shaft when you tighten them down with a hex key.... I saw em at Napa last time I was there.... GD

Yeah - all kinds of funny things will happen if the battery is low and the alternator isn't charging. The system will just cease to function properly without enough voltage to drive stuff. GD

That "black box" in not a relay. It's a Fuel Pump Control Unit. It's not wise to bypass it unless you know what you are doing. It's job is to make sure the fuel pump loses power in an accident. It's wired to an RPM sensor, and it also controls the power to your choke.... this is all assuming you have one, which I'm not totally sure about - you have an EA82, and they are different than EA81's by a good degree. However - I do think checking the voltage to the fuel pump is a good idea. NOTE, however that this can be misleading because when the engine dies (for whatever reason), the fuel pump power will be cut by the revolution sensor. When you test, you are looking for a condition where the pump will run while you are cranking, but not when the key is in the run position and the engine IS running. If the pump cuts out and the engine dies a minute or so later, you have found a potential problem. The pump will always stop when the engine stops tho. Fix vacuum leaks, check your fuel system (cap, filters, etc), and check to see that you have power to the fuel pump. You have a fuel delivery issue I would say, and a complete run-down of the system is in order. GD

When the insurance company low-balls you, tell them firmly you will take no less than (Insert desired value here). They will say "we cannot do that", and your reply will be "Well - I've been having a quite a bit of neck pain since the accident, and perhaps I should see a doctor before we talk further..." - if they still refuse, then tell them you are done negotiating, and that you will see them in court. Chances are they will not go to court, since it would cost them more than paying what you ask. If you threaten litigation on them, they are pretty much screwed because you will certainly win after you show similar vehicles, and doctor bills..... If you ask me, you are in a great situation. Find a roo out here on the west coast, and drive it home. We have plenty for cheap, and you stand to collect some serious coinage from this.... GD

EA81's have one or two electric fans (except turbo models).... EA82's have those water pump clutch jobbers. Check your electrical connections.... GD

It's easier to just put some 1" spacers on the engine cross-member. It's not a lift really.... well I guess it's a 1" lift of sorts. GD

I just use the regular size clamps - no problems here. EA81's will be tight for clearance on the rear outer joint, as it comes close to the shock mount. You can avoid that by useing an EA82 rear axle cup - it will move the clamp location inward away from the mount. The special 1/4" wide clamps can be found - VW used them from the factory on bug axles. Try the VW performance shops. But like I said - regular size ones work fine. Cheaper too. GD

You have to watch it with that Gregory's manual - I've been looking it over, and since it was published for the AUS market, it's got some real weird stuff in it. It's not to be trusted in all respects, but still a good reference for general procedures and the like. Not sure I would go to it for certain specifications tho. GD

Probably the place they would tap into the harness for "Dealer installed A/C" or "Dealer installed Cruise Control" or something similar. Basically, this provides the power circuits and the interface to the dash switches and stuff for these options which people commonly wanted installed seperately instead of paying for a more expensive trim package that already came with it. GD

McBrat has done that, and yes, it will lift the front. But just like adjusting your springs higher on your current struts, it will mess up your camber.... to counteract it, you need additional lift spacers on the front engine cross-member. GD

DOH! Me stupid. Turbo's didn't come with 4 speed's.... Anyway, what you describe is either severe fuel starvation (those filters), or *wince* a blown Head Gasket..... I only say that due to your note about it not having any coolant, and only wanting to go 30 MPH. That's about what would happen if you were running on 2 cylinders because of a blown head gasket on one side. It would also nicely explain the lack of coolant. Fill it will coolant, and crank the engine over with the radiator cap OFF. If coolant shoots out of the opening, you have a bad head gasket on one side. If it were bad on both, it wouldn't run at all, so at the most you are looking at a single head gasket failure. Likely if it was overheated to the point of taking the head gasket out, then your heads are also warped. If this is the case, replace BOTH head gaskets (the other is questionable if one failed), and check the heads for warpage - have them machined if they are out of spec GD