GeneralDisorder

It always feels good when you get that stuff solved. I recall my battle with lost coolant..... Manifold gaskets are only bought from the DEALER from now on. I've even blown the Fel-Pro's. GD

On another note, I once did a comparison between the OEM thermostat, and the "aftermarket" equivelent. Lets just say they don't stack up... neither do the gaskets. Start by getting a proper thermostat from the dealer so you know it's right.... don't have to scratch your head that way. Maybe someone who saw the pics I posted about them can chime in here. Gosh - thanks guys! GD

Not terribly difficult. Hardest part is finding good heads for the EA82T. All the bearings and rings you can get from fed-mog. Gasket kits for those are best got from the dealer. You will need a special tool to remove the piston wrist pins so you can split the block - there are two halves to the block. Other than that they are usually pretty simple. Most only need a hone, as the soobs don't wear the cylinder walls - just the rod and main bearings get trashed. GD

They are asking if you have a "Touring Wagon". They have a bump on the roof that adds a couple inches of headroom and storage. You probably don't, they are rare. Do a search here for "EA82 touring wagon" and I'm sure you'll find a picture. If your roof is flat then you don't have one. GD

More likely a bad sending unit than a bad guage. Test both tho. GD

Well - all the parts are availible from the dealer.... I just wondered if anyone had a line on an aftermarket supplier. You can't eliminate the chrome, it's what keeps the gasket tight. Besides, it wouldn't look right without it. You could maybe sand the strips and have them powder coated or something.... it's a thought. Here's what I know about the dealer parts: Quantity / Part Number / List Price / Subaruparts.com price (1) 765061000 Weather Strip F Wind $151.07 $115.11 $115.11 (1) 765062770 Moulding F Upr $22.18 $16.90 $16.90 (2) 765062970 Moulding Side $19.47 $14.83 $29.67 (1) 765062431 Moulding F Lwr $24.08 $18.35 $18.35 (1) 765062800 Moulding Joint F Upr $3.50 $2.67 $2.67 (1) 765062810 Moulding Joint F Upr $3.50 $2.67 $2.67 (1) 765062441 Moulding Joint F Lwr $3.50 $2.67 $2.67 (1) 765062451 Moulding Joint F Lwr $3.50 $2.67 $2.67 GD

180ps is about 175 HP GD

If you suspect the alternator just disconnect it. Engine will run fine without it for a while. Might be putting out high voltage, but I would think your issue is with cranking it for too long. A few seconds? More than 15 or 20? You should wait 1 minute for every 20 seconds of cranking. If both of those wires get hot then it's your starter... well cranking. The ignition switch runs full current through to the starter solenoid, so there is a LOT of draw going on. Those gear reduction starters can pull 600 amps easy. GD

Yes - probably one of your Air Injection System valves has died. They take in raw oxygen for the cat to do it's job. I just block them off, but they can be repaired if you are so inclined. Check the repair manual for a step by step on this. You have exhaust in the engine bay, and the heater fan is sucking it into the cab. Leaks in the exhaust pipe or the metal gaskets for the y-pipe at the heads can do this as well but you say all that is new.... GD

Cranking it a LOT could overheat the cable to the starter... is that what you are refering to... or the smaller line going to the fusible links? I've also seen positive cables get hot when they were damaged - sometimes it's hard to tell. Look close at the cable end for the battery. If there isn't a good connection they will get hot. Wouldn't think this would be the alternator if the engine isn't running. Unless the engine is getting up to 800 RPM or so the alt won't put out much. GD

Well it's worth checking what their price is I suppose. I'll stop by there after work this week when I get paid. Need a couple things anyway. Good idea to check tho - thanks. I think I priced it on subaruparts.com at like $115 or so. Should see what Lithia can do tho - they are good guys down at the parts counter there.... old school too. Hard to find dealerships like them anymore. GD

Yeah - been a while. I've been lurking lately.... decided it was time to return. Been through a couple jobs, and now I have my weekends back and a decent schedule. Gives me more time to work on my soobs. I'll check out ebay - don't know why I didn't think of that. Any idea if the "kit" in the eatwood cat. is the gasket? Sounds pretty cheap - I remeber them being over $100 I thought.... GD

Mig welder, and a flat washer that fits inside the spacer under the head. Just weld it in. and fill the hole in the middle of the washer with weld too. Done. In the case of the EA82 - angle grinder cut the end of the pipe from the head off and do the sale thing - flat washer for fill, and weld it solid. Then re-install your new "block off plate". Easy GD

I know that JCWhitney used to list them, and I'm also aware that it's possible to install them without the rubber gasket, but it really does look like crap when it's done (seen in on Flowmaster's '82 - was frightfull looking). I'm not interesting in hearing that I should do this or that. I KNOW what I want, and that's to do it as it was original from the factory. Call me crazy, but I am doing a "restoration", and I'm not going to settle for less. That said,- I need to know if anyone has a new rubber for an EA81 non-coupe windshield, or where to buy one. Must have the channel for the chrome strips. I have a used one that actually looks darn good - still supple and everything, and I could probably use it, but.... you never know. Also, what is the sealant used between it and the glass and the frame? And is there a special tool to inject this stuff into that thin line? GD

There are only two types of EA81 clutch cables that I know of. Difference is the mounting at the pedal. Get one for an '84 EA81 (any model), and that will be what you need. Try a pull-a-part - way cheap in WA, and pedal assembly's aren't usually a hot item.

Replace the whole pedal assembly with one from an 83+ EA81. They changed the clutch cable design because of that problem so you'll need the cable to go with it. The pedal assembly isn't hard to change out really - like 4 bolts I think. GD

There was just a lot of weird things made at different times. Car is now so old that who knows what was done to it while on the road. That, and sometimes it seems like Subaru just put whatever they had on hand into cars.... I've seen things like that in yards too - turbo wagons with FT4WD D/R and diff lock just like an RX, but without the trim.

If it's a 5 speed, you can flat tow it in 2WD just fine. Had a neighbor that pulled one behind his 5th wheel for many years. They are just 4WD, not AWD.

Your major issues are going to be what to do with the fuel return line, and the accelerator cable. Here's the best step by step I can think of at the moment: 1. Drain coolant. 2. Remove old carb and manifold. I feel it's best to just start with the manifold off the car. You have to drain the coolant either way, and this way you can clean the mating surfaces easier, put some anti-seize on the manifold bolts, remove the vacuum hard lines, and replace the manifold gaskets as well. Use ONLY the dealer ones - even the Fel-Pros have not proved reliable for me. The ones from the dealer (manifold, and thermostat) are metal with a rubberized coating, and will last nearly forever. 3. Remove the Air injection system either completely (have to weld up the ports in the spacers under the head), or block them with quarters in the pipe going to the valve. Remove all related tubes and plastic silencers. 4. Remove the carbon canister, it's mounting bracket, and all hoses. The Weber has no float chamber vent that can be routed here (one reason it's not street legal I suppose), and you might as well vent the tank to the air anyway since the carb is already. 5. Replace the fuel filter/vapor seperator with a single inlet/single outlet clear fuel filter (the kind they sell generic at the counter). When I bought my weber they made me buy one anyway for $2.50 so as not to void my warranty. Remove all associated lines no longer used. 6. You have two choices for hte return line - you can install the two way barb from the hitachi and have the return line go to the carb where it was before (my preference), or you can just use the Weber as is, and cap the return line at the firewall. Both seem to work fine. 7. Remove all hard lines, and any vacuum valves or feedback carb "bits" and associated parts from the manifold. Get it all good and clean, and cap off the vacuum ports you don't plan to use (you will need the brake booster port, and at least one other for the line going to the heater control valves. 8. You can either try to keep the EGR (in which case find or buy the one that has no port for the anti-backfire valve (early 80's EA81's) so you can eliminate that too... or you can make a block off plate for it. Doesn't seem to matter which you do, but the Weber does have the port for the EGR. 9. Put the throttle cable attachment point from the Hitachi on the Weber. 10. Mount the Weber to the manifold, and use good new gaskets and some gaskachich on those so they will come back off easily if need be. 11. Mount the clean manifold to the clean engine. 12. Relocate the throttle cable mount to a lower point on the manifold, and attach the cable. Might have to bend it a little to get it right. Just make sure it's pulling from a good angle that won't wear through the cable. 13. I use the return spring from the Hitachi, and attach it to the Weber air cleaner. Drilling a small hole in the metal of the air cleaner helps. 14. I imagine you would hook up the choke here - never done a water - only electric. With the electric I like to run a new circuit with a relay for both the choke heater, and shut-off solenoid (if equipped). 15. Run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the weber to the Disty, and if you like to the EGR valve as well. 16. Attach the fuel line to the weber, refill the coolant and start it up. Adjust the timing (might take a few days) so that it doesn't diesel when shut off, and it should be good to go. Almost forgot - the PCV routing - Just hook up all three (PCV, and both Valve cover vents) to the hole in the base of the Weber filter. That's really all they need is filtered air. If you think about it, that's how it's routed stock too - it's just that the PCV and right side cover come in together, and the left side cover has a different port in the air box. Same difference though. I may have missed a few things - shooting from the hip on that one. Been months since I installed one. GD

Going to be easier to unscrew the whole tie rod then just the end. That way you won't risk changing your alignment. There is a tang washer that you bend back, and a large wrench will do the trick from there. Not bad at all. If that bushing isn't split down the center already, you could just cut the rubber and slip it over the rack that way. The rack "clamp" there should hold it just like the sway bar link bushings are designed. A little silicone to hold it together, and make sure the cut is on the "flat" side where it will be compressed by the clamp. Should work fine I would think. When you do the axle, undo the sway bar link, and the lower control arm inner bolt, and the whole assembly will swing freely enough for the axle to pop off the tranny (remove roll pin first of course).

Must be a 2WD thing then. GD

The 22 year old radiator in my Brat doesn't seem to mind the green stuff. Works great even with 100 degree heat and traffic not moving..... I think the biggest difference is in the water you use. I use distilled water to keep the corrosive elements down. Even if my radiator bit it next year, I think that 20+ years on the green stuff is more than enough - I'll gladly buy another radiator if they all hold up like that. Just my thoughts... How about some of that German G-012 stuff? My friends Audi called for it - it's hot pink in color... VW uses it too now..... works awesome in their all-aluminium radiators. GD

For the mains, you'll have to pop the top off the carb - remove the air filter, and you'll see 6 flat head bolts. Remove those, remove the small (very small) clip on the choke lever, and the top will come off. Down inside the float bowl, you'll see two little brass jets - should both be 140. I think with the Delta cam you need to go lower on your idle jet. You have the torque cam I take it? You are getting a lot more draw from the cylinders at idle than before, and you're sucking huge quantities of fuel because of the massive vacuum at idle. The engine breathes better now, and all it's getting is a ton of gas from the big idle jet. GD

He posted in the marketplace earlier today - probably trying to move that stuff out before he has to move it to the new place.... GD

Yeah - I bet if it were running on two cylinders, and you had the disty advance hooked to manifold vacuum it would actually seem to run pretty smooth.... LOL. Could explain the smoke too - bad rings = low compression = no fire at idle = need more advance to run smooth.... crazy. GD