GeneralDisorder

Well it's worth checking what their price is I suppose. I'll stop by there after work this week when I get paid. Need a couple things anyway. Good idea to check tho - thanks. I think I priced it on subaruparts.com at like $115 or so. Should see what Lithia can do tho - they are good guys down at the parts counter there.... old school too. Hard to find dealerships like them anymore. GD

Yeah - been a while. I've been lurking lately.... decided it was time to return. Been through a couple jobs, and now I have my weekends back and a decent schedule. Gives me more time to work on my soobs. I'll check out ebay - don't know why I didn't think of that. Any idea if the "kit" in the eatwood cat. is the gasket? Sounds pretty cheap - I remeber them being over $100 I thought.... GD

Mig welder, and a flat washer that fits inside the spacer under the head. Just weld it in. and fill the hole in the middle of the washer with weld too. Done. In the case of the EA82 - angle grinder cut the end of the pipe from the head off and do the sale thing - flat washer for fill, and weld it solid. Then re-install your new "block off plate". Easy GD

I know that JCWhitney used to list them, and I'm also aware that it's possible to install them without the rubber gasket, but it really does look like crap when it's done (seen in on Flowmaster's '82 - was frightfull looking). I'm not interesting in hearing that I should do this or that. I KNOW what I want, and that's to do it as it was original from the factory. Call me crazy, but I am doing a "restoration", and I'm not going to settle for less. That said,- I need to know if anyone has a new rubber for an EA81 non-coupe windshield, or where to buy one. Must have the channel for the chrome strips. I have a used one that actually looks darn good - still supple and everything, and I could probably use it, but.... you never know. Also, what is the sealant used between it and the glass and the frame? And is there a special tool to inject this stuff into that thin line? GD

There are only two types of EA81 clutch cables that I know of. Difference is the mounting at the pedal. Get one for an '84 EA81 (any model), and that will be what you need. Try a pull-a-part - way cheap in WA, and pedal assembly's aren't usually a hot item.

Replace the whole pedal assembly with one from an 83+ EA81. They changed the clutch cable design because of that problem so you'll need the cable to go with it. The pedal assembly isn't hard to change out really - like 4 bolts I think. GD

There was just a lot of weird things made at different times. Car is now so old that who knows what was done to it while on the road. That, and sometimes it seems like Subaru just put whatever they had on hand into cars.... I've seen things like that in yards too - turbo wagons with FT4WD D/R and diff lock just like an RX, but without the trim.

If it's a 5 speed, you can flat tow it in 2WD just fine. Had a neighbor that pulled one behind his 5th wheel for many years. They are just 4WD, not AWD.

Your major issues are going to be what to do with the fuel return line, and the accelerator cable. Here's the best step by step I can think of at the moment: 1. Drain coolant. 2. Remove old carb and manifold. I feel it's best to just start with the manifold off the car. You have to drain the coolant either way, and this way you can clean the mating surfaces easier, put some anti-seize on the manifold bolts, remove the vacuum hard lines, and replace the manifold gaskets as well. Use ONLY the dealer ones - even the Fel-Pros have not proved reliable for me. The ones from the dealer (manifold, and thermostat) are metal with a rubberized coating, and will last nearly forever. 3. Remove the Air injection system either completely (have to weld up the ports in the spacers under the head), or block them with quarters in the pipe going to the valve. Remove all related tubes and plastic silencers. 4. Remove the carbon canister, it's mounting bracket, and all hoses. The Weber has no float chamber vent that can be routed here (one reason it's not street legal I suppose), and you might as well vent the tank to the air anyway since the carb is already. 5. Replace the fuel filter/vapor seperator with a single inlet/single outlet clear fuel filter (the kind they sell generic at the counter). When I bought my weber they made me buy one anyway for $2.50 so as not to void my warranty. Remove all associated lines no longer used. 6. You have two choices for hte return line - you can install the two way barb from the hitachi and have the return line go to the carb where it was before (my preference), or you can just use the Weber as is, and cap the return line at the firewall. Both seem to work fine. 7. Remove all hard lines, and any vacuum valves or feedback carb "bits" and associated parts from the manifold. Get it all good and clean, and cap off the vacuum ports you don't plan to use (you will need the brake booster port, and at least one other for the line going to the heater control valves. 8. You can either try to keep the EGR (in which case find or buy the one that has no port for the anti-backfire valve (early 80's EA81's) so you can eliminate that too... or you can make a block off plate for it. Doesn't seem to matter which you do, but the Weber does have the port for the EGR. 9. Put the throttle cable attachment point from the Hitachi on the Weber. 10. Mount the Weber to the manifold, and use good new gaskets and some gaskachich on those so they will come back off easily if need be. 11. Mount the clean manifold to the clean engine. 12. Relocate the throttle cable mount to a lower point on the manifold, and attach the cable. Might have to bend it a little to get it right. Just make sure it's pulling from a good angle that won't wear through the cable. 13. I use the return spring from the Hitachi, and attach it to the Weber air cleaner. Drilling a small hole in the metal of the air cleaner helps. 14. I imagine you would hook up the choke here - never done a water - only electric. With the electric I like to run a new circuit with a relay for both the choke heater, and shut-off solenoid (if equipped). 15. Run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the weber to the Disty, and if you like to the EGR valve as well. 16. Attach the fuel line to the weber, refill the coolant and start it up. Adjust the timing (might take a few days) so that it doesn't diesel when shut off, and it should be good to go. Almost forgot - the PCV routing - Just hook up all three (PCV, and both Valve cover vents) to the hole in the base of the Weber filter. That's really all they need is filtered air. If you think about it, that's how it's routed stock too - it's just that the PCV and right side cover come in together, and the left side cover has a different port in the air box. Same difference though. I may have missed a few things - shooting from the hip on that one. Been months since I installed one. GD

Going to be easier to unscrew the whole tie rod then just the end. That way you won't risk changing your alignment. There is a tang washer that you bend back, and a large wrench will do the trick from there. Not bad at all. If that bushing isn't split down the center already, you could just cut the rubber and slip it over the rack that way. The rack "clamp" there should hold it just like the sway bar link bushings are designed. A little silicone to hold it together, and make sure the cut is on the "flat" side where it will be compressed by the clamp. Should work fine I would think. When you do the axle, undo the sway bar link, and the lower control arm inner bolt, and the whole assembly will swing freely enough for the axle to pop off the tranny (remove roll pin first of course).

Must be a 2WD thing then. GD

The 22 year old radiator in my Brat doesn't seem to mind the green stuff. Works great even with 100 degree heat and traffic not moving..... I think the biggest difference is in the water you use. I use distilled water to keep the corrosive elements down. Even if my radiator bit it next year, I think that 20+ years on the green stuff is more than enough - I'll gladly buy another radiator if they all hold up like that. Just my thoughts... How about some of that German G-012 stuff? My friends Audi called for it - it's hot pink in color... VW uses it too now..... works awesome in their all-aluminium radiators. GD

For the mains, you'll have to pop the top off the carb - remove the air filter, and you'll see 6 flat head bolts. Remove those, remove the small (very small) clip on the choke lever, and the top will come off. Down inside the float bowl, you'll see two little brass jets - should both be 140. I think with the Delta cam you need to go lower on your idle jet. You have the torque cam I take it? You are getting a lot more draw from the cylinders at idle than before, and you're sucking huge quantities of fuel because of the massive vacuum at idle. The engine breathes better now, and all it's getting is a ton of gas from the big idle jet. GD

He posted in the marketplace earlier today - probably trying to move that stuff out before he has to move it to the new place.... GD

Yeah - I bet if it were running on two cylinders, and you had the disty advance hooked to manifold vacuum it would actually seem to run pretty smooth.... LOL. Could explain the smoke too - bad rings = low compression = no fire at idle = need more advance to run smooth.... crazy. GD

Depends on the Gen 1 - my 78 has one, as all california models of that vintage did.... GD

Each Napa has their own pricing system for some strange reason - even on oil and stuff. And it depends on if you "know" someone who will give you the wholesale price or not too. I think the last one I got was a bit less than that, but I can't recall exactly. GD

Well - blue smoke would be oil burning, and from what I've read, the machines don't look for the type of HC that would produce, so I think you are safe there. Here they also do a "visible exhuast" test (ie - they look at it).... But the oil smoke could indicate some bad rings or valve stem seals, which could also cause a low compression condition, and at low RPM's that can cause incomplete burning of the fuel. Do you even have a cat? A cat and a working air injection system will go a long way to lowering your emmissions. Check the timing also - it might be too far advanced..... and check the routing of the vacuum advance on the disty - if it is hooked up to manifold vacuum, you will get WAY too much advance at idle, and it will throw you readings off... generally speaking you want less advance for less emmissions. GD

He aint kidding! LOL GD

Napa is pretty cheap for their remaned clutches - around $100 for the kit. GD

WOW! That's totally off the scale. Even 500 is insanely high - around here 220 ppm is the limit, and even when I failed because of a vacuum leak that caused an idle miss, I was only at 350... Over 3,700?!?!? OMG - it's got to be running on two cylinders or something..... run a compression check.... quick! Clogged air filter? Dirty oil? Nasty, nasty carb? Vacuum leaks up the yang? Got to be something, but with a number that high I would check your compression before I did anything else. GD

I have sitting in my driveway with no rust on it..... got it for $40 on ebay. GD

Not a problem with the Webers. Get or make a spacer block for it if you can. GD

Vice Grips and a hammer on that EGR. GD

You can use 2x3 tubing for the leading rod plates - gives better clearance, and cheaper. Also - rather than using bolts that go all the way through, use the original bolts for the top of the block, and new short bolts for the bottom of it. This way they won't loosen nearly as easily, and the bolts are MUCH cheaper. Use ONLY 1/4" wall or thicker - anything less will deform. GD