GeneralDisorder

A cheap ball joint "fork" will pop it out. Will destroy the boot, but you are replaceing it anyway. They are a couple bucks from harbor frieght. GD

Yeah - sometimes they do actually just fall out. Just depends. I've had old axles fall out, and new ones be a bugger to get into the same knuckle. Doesn't seem to matter once they are torqued tho. Just be glad that wasn't stuck too. GD

Are the vavle stem seals new? GD

The difference is 4WD or 2WD. The 2WD got the Nippon, and the 4WD got the Hitachi. As for EA81's... they never had points except perhaps in 80/81 - not sure on those years. BUT - the points style distrubutor from an EA71 will work just fine.... and the breakerless will work in an EA71 too. Cap/Rotor purchase - just specify 2WD or 4WD. That should do it. GD

Bent a rod?!? I want a picture to prove that. Subaru rods are insanely thick for the size engine they are in. You may have nuked a bearing tho - perhaps it was on the way out and the fluid was the last straw. The old engine out of my wagon threw a rod after too much swamp water - right out the top of the block. Took a month for it to blow tho. GD

A whole bottle of the stuff down your intake in one gulp wouldn't hydro lock the engine - not enough fluid. I've drowned plenty of EA81's with swamp water till they completely died. Still turned over and fired up. Shot a ton of water out the tail pipe and lots of steam from being really wet. No damage tho. GD

I've considered doing that too - just never got around to it. Could even weld a bit of a handle to it and make a proper tool! GD

Well - I know I've seen HID conversion kits for the DL style sealed beams - for VW Scirocco's and the like. Could do that ($$$), but I have to say that for the most part the sealed beams on the DL (same as on my Brat, and EA81 GL wagon) are not any better than the EA82 GL lamps. GD

That book is useless for the front bearing job as it will tell you exactly what the FSM does - press them out with a bearing press. Don't have to do that, but it *is* the reccomended procedure. Just use a drift and work your way around the bearing outer race to drive them into the knuckle and you'll be fine. I've replaced them without even pulling the knuckle off the car. Don't forget the spacer between the bearings - got a little ahead of ourselves once and had to pull the bearing back out to put the spacer in. GD

If you pulled the DOJ (inner CV joint, called a Double Offset Joint) apart, then you at least borked the retainer ring around the cup, and most likely split the cup itself in several places. You'll need to replace the ring, the boot and probably the cup.... maybe the whole inner joint too if the cage or bearings were knarled up when it came apart. They aren't meant to get that stretchy.... Since the bolt broke too, you might just consider getting a whole junk yard hub with the axle and everything already in it. Depends on how good you are with front axle replacements, or rebuilds. You can rebuild the inner DOJ if you have a pair of split ring pliers, but you'll have to source the parts or get them from another axle (junk yard!). GD

Um.... because it wouldn't be "power" steering then would it? Power is awesome for off-roading with lifted soobs. Much superior to manual. Not a kludge either - the EA82 pump is the same as the EA81 turbo pump, so not all that strange to consider doing this. GD

Maybe you are missing part of the driveline or one of the axles? Otherwise the other wheel *should* turn. GD

Actually, yes - it's been done. The pump will bolt in, you just have to figure out the belt situation - the alt is used as the tensioner in the EA82, so you may need to measure and find a belt the right size. Just a V belt tho so shouldn't be hard at all. Measure with some string. Might need to find or fabricate the mount for the pump from an EA81T tho.... GD

Stop what you are doing and IMMEDIATELY replace the alt with a known good one. Likely it has failed. The buzzer you hear is warning you of bad voltage to the dash. Most likely tho the dash is blown. Sorry, but there really is no good way to save them - once you let the magic smoke out they are done. Best thing for you is to get an analog cluster and spend a weekend (or five) with wiring diagrams to get it converted over. You'll have to replace the fuel level sender in the tank, and the coolant temp sender in the manifold. I've done it, and it's not terribly difficult, but I used a 1980 cluster because I like the way they look - that made the wireing a lot harder. Get an analog cluster from an 82-84 Subaru GL and it won't be too bad. Finding a good replacement digi is possible, but they are getting very rare, and sometimes go for several hundred $$. GD

Coupe doors too. In fact there were only two types of doors - Brat/Hatch/Coupe, and Sedan/Wagon. I have a coupe door on my Brat now in fact. GD

Yikes! Make sure that stuff is solid - belts won't help you in a crash if the seat comes out of the floor. Bad times. GD

Get a new cap for it too - 82's had the "big" radiator cap - your new one will be the small version (83 on). GD

The 5200 has the same bolt pattern - in fact it is almost the same carb as it was licensed from Weber by holly. It's actually a DFAV not a DGAV, but both have the same mounting pattern. They are basically mirror images of one another. EXCEPT the 5200 has much smaller venturi's. So basically it will bolt on in place of the DGAV, but with the same basic power as the stock Hitachi. Easier to tune and work on, but not at all desireable from a performance standpoint. Stick with the DGV series. GD

When EA81's have rod knocks you most likely won't be able to hear it at all unless the engine is under load. Mine gave a metallic knock when under load (acclerating) but nothing while at idle. One day it just blew - rod went out the top the of the block. Knock got real bad for about half a mile then it blew. I knew it had a little knock, but they don't really give much warning like a V engine does. GD

Lifters generally adopt the wear pattern of the bore they were inside of, and if you put used ones in a different engine (or different bore) you are likely to have a ticking that will never stop. New ones that aren't worn yet are ok, and usually putting them back in the same bore they came from will be fine if they don't tick now. Make SURE you don't mix them up - they will tick. GD

Tan '82 Brat seats - gotta love that lumberjack plaid pattern eh? Heh. On the C/W... the bolts holding the carb to the manifold are notorious for that. Get the carb off, clean them up REALLY good and use some brake cleaner to make sure there is no residue on them. Then you'll have to use some serious loctite on those boys. It's the feedback C/W isn't it? Ouchies - probably due for an O2 sensor change by now. GD

Ok - lets start from the beginning - what math are you using to calculate our mileage? Better yet - how many miles do you get on a tank? GD

Sorry to say it, but you need to check for hydro-carbons in the coolant - just to be 100% sure it's not a blown HG. Run a compression check too. Verify that your head gaskets are good before you dump any more $$ into the cooling system. GD

That's only going to work if the joint is frozen to the stub - I think his problem is getting the clearance to pull it off the stub... taking the joint apart would actually need more clearance than slipping it off the tranny. That is a nice trick that I have used before to replace boots. Drop the y-pipe, and then drop the axle off the tranny - take the inner joint apart and slide new inner and outer boots on. Great if that's all you need to do. Gutting the cat helps to keep the passenger axle boot cool so it won't split too. GD

I get 25 - 28 regularly with a Weber on my EA81 (stock height, 85 Brat). 15 is much to low. I would run a compression check, and read your plugs to get an idea if you are running rich or what's going on. Also make sure you have NO exhaust leaks - that will hit your mileage a bit as well. GD