GeneralDisorder

Drill it out - it's not that hard. GD

And the coil. The high performance coil's are not known to be all that reliable. Get a good stock ND coil I say. GD

If someone wants to offer a carfax to me, I'll gladly supply the VIN. I can call the guy and get it. GD

Never seen a dual Weber setup, but VW's had them, so it's possible.... EA82 rear coil overs can be adapted - try to find the 3-way adjustable ones. Beefier axles - well in the front I prefer the GCK axles. Autozone carries them special order. They are real beefy. In the rear, I use the EA82 DOJ cups with EA81 axle shafts - gives more flex and droop for the suspension as the joints are deeper. GD

Concur - I've run the 4 and 5 spd D/R in low at the limit of the speed the engine would allow without damage. 70+ mph will not hurt it. GD

Your backfireing is due to leaks in the exhaust stream - either in the y-pipe, or from the Air Suction Valves. Block then off (quarters work well) or fix the leaks in the pipe. You are introducing fresh oxygen into the exhaust stream and it's mixing with unburnt fuel in the rear of the exhaust. The hot muffler will ignite this. GD

But if you order a door panel (new), they come primered with no molding All paint is original as far as I could tell. GD

Yeah - it is Left hand drive, so probably not AUS, or JDM. I thought perhaps from Mexico or Canada. I really don't know though. It is 2WD, so that part is normal. The weird thing is the badge says Leone on one side, and Subaru on the other. I don't think it's been modified. It does have GL-10 badgeing on the rear gate if that helps. I'll try to get more pictures soon. It's in decent shape - I was considering maybe converting it to 4WD.... kind of a neat engine - spec page says 94 HP stock. More than the SPFI at least. It has good tags, and is titled in Oregon, so it's legal here. Oh - build date on the jam is 01/85 GD

EA82 guys help me out with this one: '85 GL-10, Non-Turbo EA82 MPFI. 2WD 5 Speed. All the GL-10 options - Digi, AC, Cruise, etc. Name badge makes me think possibly Canadian?

Yeah - I have my rear welded - a lot of us with lifts do it. You just weld the spider gears together - I put a high grade bolt in the geer teeth and weld it all together. As for on-road, if the pavement is dry, you'll snap the stock rear axles on a hard turn. The DOJ cups will split open. BUT - the cool thing is that it takes only a few short minutes to remove one axle for pavement driving. I've driven with them in mind you, you just have to be careful not to turn too hard or fast. GD

Brushes are NOT contacts. The contacts are in the starter solenoid, while the brushes are for the starter motor itself. GD

I've broken a lot of axles - but since I started using EA82 joints in the rear - and NEW gck axles in the front, I've been pretty happy. I've seen front lower control arms get bent - best way to prevent that is to box them - basically weld a steel plate to the underside to make them fully enclosed instead of just stamped. I've bent my rear diff hanger - fixed that by welding a peice of 1/4" flat bar along the length of the hanger - this will prevent flex foward and back which is the main reason for bending it. It will support the whole wagon now. I've seen the rear diff hanger mounts ripped loose - that can be fixed by welding them to the uni-body, or by fabricating brackets for them, and bolting them up like a solid axle shackle mount instead of just two bolts to the frame rail. Those raidus rods are a problem - I think possibly larger, thicker rods are the best bet there. Other things to do - skid plate for the fuel tank - or a fuel cell. Skid plate for the rear diff too. GD

You don't have one - no loyale did - except perhaps the 90 turbo model??? Anyway - very few EA82's got rear sway's. RX's, and GL-10's mostly. GD

Clutch cable adjusted properly? Did you have the flywheel turned by a competent shop? GD

""In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "normal" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91 in Europe."" So your 98, is the same as our 93. No difference. GD

Yes - when the engine stops running, the FPCU (Fuel pump control unit) will shut off the pump to prevent a fire in case of accident. It will run for a few seconds when it's first put in the run position, and then it will run while cranking. If the FPCU gets no signal from the coil (tach signal, coil pulse, whatever you like to call it), the pump will be shut down. GD

Paint can opener works well I've found - cheap too. The short metal type with the little flat hook on the end. GD

I've noticed that heat tends to really help remove stuff - heat, and backflush. Sort of like steam cleaning I guess. It's important to note that a properly maintained cooling system will never require this procedure. The coolant has many anti-corrosion properties, but if it's left in there for more than a couple years, you'll have problems. If you live around salt you may need a new radiator, but that's from rust on the outside, not the inside. GD

In a nutshell - no. The heater core is like a mini-radiator. There is a valve that opens or closes to allow more or less flow through the core, but in principle it really doesn't matter which direction the system flows. You are running it this way? I would definately flush the system out as you probably have crud that is free-floating in your coolant now, and that will settle somewhere if you don't take action while it's loose.... maybe back in the core, but maybe in your radiator too. Get one of those cheap flush and fill kits with hose fittings for your heater core hoses - that way you can presureize the system with a garden hose and shoot that junk out of there. It's a good idea to replace the heater core hoses too - 5/8" core hose is like $1 per foot at NAPA, and the peice of mind is worth it. I've had them split open on a hot day and spill every drop of coolant on the road - that sucks. GD

You may need to bleed the master cylinder first before bleeding the lines. The systems uses two circuits controlling diagonal wheels independantly, in the case of a leak (or air) in one side of the system the master cylinder has a failsafe that will allow the other circuit to still operate - but with more pedal travel. Bleed the master cylinder first, and then the wheels - make sure you have the e-brake off when you bleed too. GD

No - lets be clear here - there's no guarantee that the ignitor was engineered for more than double it's rated output - but then there is no guarante that it wasn't either. It also can burn out the coil rather than the ign. module. Either way you are dead on the road unless you have spares. Granted this can happen with stock components too. My point is that telling people to do this or do that is irresponsible without also telling them the risks if you know about them. Making changes to your vehicle is irrespoinisble unless you have done the research and know the risks - both to yourself, your passengers, and anyone else on the road that you may encounter. Electronics, and electrical systems should not be trifled with lightly. There ARE such things as voltage, current, and resistance that all must be in tune or bad results may come of it. Anything from blowing a fuse, to destroying components, to fire! Ask a Jaguar owner about badly designed electrics..... It probably always seems that I'm the voice of doom about stuff like this. Sorry but someone has to take the side of rationality, and reason. It's all fun and games till someone loses an eye. GD

Changing the coil will result in higher voltages.... till you burn out your ignitor module, and have to spend $100 on a new one. The stock coil, and ignitor are a matched pair for resistance. If you want higher voltages, then you need to head to a disty shop so they can upgrade your distributor ignition module as well. GD

Crank it a bit with the plugs out. GD

http://www.philbingroup.com/ They are local to me, and I can vouch for their work. Excelent quality. All the rebuilders in Portland send their work there. GD

I don't run them on the road - but to keep the bearings in good shape, I would say probably keep them if you are going to get into any water. Mud only is fine as they are spinning fast enough to fling that away. It takes 2 hours to change the belts with them, and 20 minutes without - you decide. I would rather keep an extra set in the car and be able to change them on the side of the road, than have to have the car towed. that to me makes it worthwhile. Plus I've maintained several EA82's without them for many thousands of miles (on road only) with absolutly no ill effect. If anything the belt covers IMO tend to collect debris, and keep oil and other contaminates from draining away from the belts and pulleys. The whole setup is easier to maintain and keep clean without them. Makes belt and pulley inspection a simple matter of opening the hood. GD