GeneralDisorder

Hoping someone can help me who has an EA82 FSM. Never thought I would do it, but I broke down and got an EA82 sedan.... what can I say it was cheap. Anyway - the fuel guage is a little wonky - probably the conectors to the sending unit, but I don't know where they are / how to get to them. Do I get to them from underneath or from in the trunk? I've only ever had the tank out of EA81's.... I would look but its dark and I was hoping if I knew how to find it I might be able to find and clean then with my mag light GD

Off-roading can use a lot of fuel for not a lot of miles since you are not really moving a whole lot, doing a lot of idleing and such - it's hard to judge. I usually come in around 20 mpg on my lifted wagon when it's driven on the street (to and from off-road only, but that is sometimes pretty far away - two or more tankfulls). So 15 mpg isn't totally off the wall.... you still need to accurately measure it without the off-roading in there. GD

Ah - well I guess you got it fixed then - right on. GD

You just need to oil the drill bit a little when you are drilling that kind of stuff - without a little cutting oil the bit will dull within minutes. Also you need to start with a smaller bit and work your way up. Although the whole mount is probably a mess by now. Angle grinder the mount out and put in a new one with grade 8 nuts welded on the back for your bolts. Bring it over here and we can set it up right man. GD

Calculate the mileage for real before you go looking for a problem that may not exist. Average it over 4 full tanks. And do the math - the guage is not accurate, and judging by the tank mileage and not how much fuel you have put in the tank is not the proper way to calculate mileage. GD

Are you using a geniune Subaru PCV valve? And have you replaced (REPLACED - not cleaned) the PCV filter in the airbox (assuming you still have it..)? GD

Sure - it will basically drop in - especially if both cars are carbbed. The SPFI will bolt onto an EA81 as well, but the distributor will need modification to be used. But yes - you will use the EA82 flywheel and clutch (need to grind a bit on the EA81 bell-housing for it to bolt on). And the engine will line up with all the mounting points in an EA82. You will lose about 12 HP tho :cool:, and being a heavy vehicle already, it's going to be slow unless you build the engine up with a new cam, and some better intake/exhaust. GD

Bad intake gaskets will generally cause the engine to burn the coolant, but you will see evidence of "milkshake" in the breather hoses, PCV valve, and oil cap as some of the coolant does get by the pistons rings as vapor and then condenses in the oil. Not a lot tho, and the oil is still usually pretty black. Delt with this problem many times on subaru's - often it is mis-diagnosed as a head gasket. Run a compression test, and see what you get. GD

Just got this for $100. Drove it home too. The little 1/4" coolant line under the carb to the manifold had a small leak. Guy broke a screwdriver off in the ignition switch and let it sit for 3 years: GD

This is why power steering rocks. Doesn't kick near as hard when you have the fluid pressure slowing it down. GD

Do tell - how nice does it run? Got ponies? Eh? GD

Ebay auction said 1.8, but who knows. I don't see any evidence in the picture of the coolant cross over pipe that's on the earlier engines, so I think it really must be an EA81. That thing is a serious race machine tho - don't think it even has an alternator. That pressure guage doesn't go over 15, so it must run a fairly small amount of boost. I wonder what the advantages are over a turbo setup besides simpliciy of course. Turbo's are more effecient, and on a small engine like the EA81 I would imagine that effeciency would be pronounced. Must be a good reason for it tho. GD

It's really just a Legacy AWD tranny with the bellhousing for an EA series. They called AWD - Full Time 4WD back then. The RX, some GL-10's and the XT6 AWD all had it. It's most likely single range with a diff lock, but there were dual range versions in the RX, and the XT6 had a single range with a 3.9 diff instead of a 3.7. All (except the auto) have the diff lock I'm pretty sure. Diff lock just turns it into a regular 4WD instead of AWD. GD

Pretty darn rare. No one knows for sure, but I live in soob central, and I've seen maybe 2 loyale's, and 1 or 2 legacy's.' GD

The 2.2 can handle the RPM's - it's redline is 6500, and should have no difficulty at all doing 8000+ all day long. The 2.2 has 5 mains, and short, stubby rods that aren't even drilled for oil passages. The aircraft guys run the EA81 at 7000 with a prop drive for hours and hours. That engine is not as rugged, and only has 3 mains. Let your cruise do it's job - it's going to 4k because the engine is more effiecient if kept within it's power band. GD

On the top front of the engine block - passenger side near the head it should have an "EA81" or "EA71" inside a square - that will tell us a lot. They painted the valve covers, but you could look to see if they have, or had a rectangular sticker in the middle of them. That would be the indication that it has hydrualic lifters. I'm guessing maybe they started with an EA81 turbo, and converted it to a blow-through carb setup. The original EA81T only put out like 95 HP, but JDM engines would have done a lot more. The JDM dual carb was around 108, and the JDM turbo setups for racing were up over 150 I'm sure. The most I've heard from an EA81 was a claim of 200 HP from one of the guys that works for that place that does the dual port aviation engines. I believe that was with the dual port heads, and a blower tho. GD

That would be SPFI then? So does he have the timing at 20 degrees initial advance? The timing should jump - the SPFI computer will give more advance off-idle. Just like a vacuum advance would do with ported vacuum. I say your problem is elsewhere - checked the fuel filter recently? Check the computer for codes, and get back to us. GD

Put the cap on, and point the rotor at the #1 terminal. Rotate it back slightly as you install it so when the gears mesh and it turns it will be pointing at exactly #1. If your cap has no numbers on it, then just point the rotor at the terminal closest to the firewall, and call it good. As long as you have the engine at #1 TDC, and the rotor pointing at one of the terminals, it will work. Just put the plug wires on in the right order. There is a total of 4 ways in which the disy can be installed and work correctly - just have to move the plug wires around. To get #1 TDC, pull the #1 plug, and rotate it till you feel air comming out with your finger - then find the mark on the flywheel. GD

Look at the head - you'll see that three of the holes are recessed deeper than the rest. Yes - clean threads very well, and lightly oil. GD

BPR6ES-11, BPR5ES-11, or BPR7ES-11 Any will work, but the first one is the most common/prefered. GD

Well - the shock inside the strut holds the whole assembly together, and without it, the thing will just fall apart. If you could find a longer strut cartridge tho you might be able to get more travel. Larger springs would help as well. As for longer control arms, the EA82 setup is wider, so you could adapt that for a few more inches of travel. You would need to either modify the axles or use the EA82 hubs and brakes. GD

I don't think EJ18 heads will work on an EJ22..... the valve train is quite different anyway. The lifters are in the head on an 18, and in the rockers on a 22. GD

Only for the rear - the tool is to remove the huge ring nut that holds the bearing in. You can use a coal chisel and hammer to pound it around, it just chews up the nut, and is a lot more difficult. The tool has four protrusions, and can be used with an impact. Takes em right out quick. GD

And do a wet compression test, and hookup some air to the cylinders if you can and listen for it getting out. That will give you an idea of the leaky components. GD

Thanks Skip - means a lot comming from yourself. Your no slouch when it comes to car bits either. I reccon I could learn a thing or two from ya. Now that we have the trans info.... could your brother perhaps give us an idea of the engine and blower configuration. I'm guessing maybe it has an EA81.... perhaps the turbo block - maybe someone with EA81T knowledge will chime in and help to ID the turbo block vs. the NA block without taking it apart. Possible to get some pics with more detail of the engine and it's setup? GD