GeneralDisorder

Follow the instructions that come with the kit. Take a look at the carb... what were you planning on tuning? Only way to tune a weber is to change the jets..... GD

Hey - Send it to me: cropperr (at) comcast (dot) net, and I'll post it for all to see. GD

Yep - the vapor doesn't get evacuated..... I wouldn't worry too much about it. Those carbon cannistors are supposed to be replaced every 60k miles, so likely it's shot anyway. If you like, just conect the two lines and it will evac the cannistor when it's cold. Doesn't matter much really it's just a passive emmissions thing. You could plug them both and never notice. GD

Turbo automatic will be 3.70:1 differential, and 5 spd D/R will be 3.90:1. Look in the sticker of the REAR differential to check the ratio.... I can tell you it will require you swap the rear diff, driveline, and front axles as well as the pedal assembly, flywheel and clutch setup.... transmission of course, and it's cross member. Possibly part of the exhaust, but I doubt it. Your front axles are the wrong spline count for the 5 spd tranny.... you can either swap the whole axle, or just the inner joint. Up to you. Personally it's easier to do the joint I think. GD

Those solenoids do a couple different things depending on which one you are talking about. They are in place to control things that should only be on or off when the engine meets certain criteria. Usually this means the valve is opened once the engine reaches operating temp. The EGR is controlled in this way, as is the evap cannistor purge line. EGR is not on durring cold running as it would introduce a needless vacuum leak that could cause hessitation. The evap is evacuated of fuel vapor once the engine reaches temp in the same way - vacuum is applied to the purge line of the cannistor. Follow the vacuum lines to determine what the valve controls - then determine if the part is neccesary or not. Incidentally, those valves can be repaired if they still work - just get the broken bit out of the hose, and JB weld it back on. A careful application of JB weld will make it stronger than original. Pretty common and easily pocketed in the junk yard too tho. GD

Ugly - very ugly. Only 115k? I jump for joy if I find any parts with less than 200k in the junk yards here. GD

Check the belt carefully - it may be loose because it is streching and about to break GD

Use the board! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/ Well - I hope a link is enough to get you going - otherwise post back and more detailed info can be issued. GD

Everyone needs a can of white lithium grease - spray the mechanism and you won't be breaking cables... they break sometimes even here on the rustless coast. Since I've taken to spraying all of mine with white lithium when I do the door hinges and all that - nary a problem to be found. GD

Have a look for the fuel pump control unit and wire it to that - I think it gets power from the choke?!?! Weird I know, but that is what I remember. Get one from an EA81 CA model as they are simpler to wire - light blue instead of black. In your Brat (Gen 2 right?) it's above the hood release under the dash. GD

He's in CA - not likely. I know it's hard to beleive, but we don't have rust on the left coast. No such thing here. GD

Yeppers - pull harder. GD

It's the round switch down under the steering column right? Hang on - there is one in my parts collection - I'll run and take a look. GD

Check the fuel filter first - easy fix if that's it. The FILTER is by the pump. The one in the engine bay is the vapor seperator - it routes fuel vapor trapped in the line between the float bowl and the fuel pump to the carbon canistor so pressure doesn't build up on a hot day in a parking lot. The filter inside this is largely overkill, as nothing really ever gets by the one at the pump anyway... unless you had corrosion inside the body hard lines.... yuckies. I've had the Hitachi floats get stuck closed before too - can you restart it again after it's sputtered out? Really annoying problem to track down, as the float doesn't stay stuck for long when you start poking around looking for problems. Replaced the needle and seat and never had another problem with that one. Check ignition coil and distributor as well - could be a heat related ignition failure. Check for spark when it dies. GD

Pull the knob off, and there is a nut under it. GD

BAD, BAD idea. If you get in a wreck, the fuel pump will not shut off, and crete a serious fire hazard. Other soobs have a "fuel pump control unit" that will shut off power to the pump when the engine is not running. The Justy most likely has something along those lines. I would start looking for it. Have you changed the fuel filters? Classic symptoms with your old carb.... I'm sure you have thought of that tho. GD

This is a SUBARU - it's not a swiss watch people. This is not rocket science, and people will not die if some of the foam comes off a wing. Get real. Jeezuz That said, it's a heck of a lot simpler and cheaper to just use the 2-peice. It's proven reliable. Personally, I've seen axles, and driveshafts cut and welded in the middle. You just have to know what you are doing, and how to properly weld it with the sleeve covering enough of the existing shaft, and the holes in the sleeve beveled and welded properly. There is not just ONE way to do things, and people haven't always had access to sophisticated equipement for this type of thing. GD

Yes - it will run without the computer - but not well. You do have a computer - it's under the dash on the drivers side. Your check engine light may be burnt out, or the bulb pulled, or ECU disconnected so you wouldn't see it when you bough it. The feedback hitachi will run without the computer, but not well, and never correctly. In order to make it run right without all the extra stuff, the carb would have to be swapped out with non-feedback version. The jets and air correctors in the feedback version are not designed to run without the vacuum solenoids that are controlled by the ECU. Just be glad it's not a feedback EA82 - they are worse. Your strange issues could be related to a bad coolant temp sensor or something. Disconnect the ECU and see if that makes a difference. Also might look into the fuel pump control unit above the hood release latch. It supplies power to the fuel pump... might be bad or getting an incorrect signal from the ECU. GD

You just have to remove the single E10 torx on INSIDE of the stub - so you'll have to dissasemble the axle cup, and remove the grease plug. Remove the axle boot, and it should be obvious from there. GD

Are you SURE it has the computer controlled Hitachi? If so, that's totally different, and you'll thrash you mileage if you mess with a lot of it. You can still remove the systems that are not related to the feedback system, but it takes more in-depth knowledge to sort that stuff out from the computer. The computer will get angry and throw codes at you, then run in "limp" mode with defualt fuel maps till you fix it. GD

The AIS is passive - it has NO moving parts. There are two AIS valves usually - just follow the 1" steel tube up from the bottom of the head right above the exhaust flange and you'll find them. There are a couple plastic silincers and the 1" rubber tubes that hook into the air filter. You would likely know if you had a CA model. If you have an O2 sensor in your y-pipe where the cat is, then you have the feedback mess. But you probably don't. GD

Dissasemble rear axle - use E10 torx socket to remove stub from diff - place cup and stub in a vise - remove the grease plug in the bottom of the cup - use brass punch and BFH to pound the stub out of the cup...... make sure to use anti-sieze for reassembly. GD

There are usually three vacuum valves, one for EGR as you mentioned. Block the EGR completely, or route it to the other port on the front of the carb - also ported vacuum, but it gets vacuum later than the disty. It's easier to just block it tho. None of these has anything to do with the AIS, unless the AIS valve is the vacuum operated type (CA emmissions models, and I think some very Carter carb versions). Just disconect it. GD

You can eliminate them both - the distributor needs ported vacuum - on the front of your carb. In other words, it gets a rising vacuum signal off-idle, and no vacuum at idle. The hole for this signal is right above the throttle plate. The other vacuum valve is for the evap system. It will evacuate the carbon cannistor once the sytem reaches operating temp. Read and UNDERSTAND how each system works on the engine, and this will all make sense. You are wasting your time and ours poking around and asking questions when a little research will save you from scratching your head for hours and begging for help. Also - I have personally covered each of the systems at length in previous posts - search is your friend as this is all availible for reading at your leisure. Why wait for us to post? GD

Yes - do a search - I've personally covered this many times for people. The short answer is you need to learn what the stuff does, and the pro's/con's of removing it first. KNOW how your engine works, and what all the little parts do, and you won't have to ask questions of a bunch of people who largely don't know either. GD