GeneralDisorder

Coolant runs through the manifold - the manifold gaskets are a common failure item. Usually the coolant leaks into the cylinders and is burnt. Compression check will yeild good results - so he thinks the block is bad. Never seen or heard of a block cracking, and I'll wager no one else here has either. The heads would warp and crack to little bits before the block went. Could be freeze plugs if it froze with water only in it. At any rate - he probably has no clue what is really wrong. As for it being a good deal - that's relative. I just drove away in an 86 5 spd 4WD sedan for $100. Cost more than that to register it. I've been given soobs, and bought them for as little as $1 that drove away. People often don't want them or just plain don't know what they have. Reality is they are near worthless anyway - even KBB gives my wagon (in good to mint condition mind you) a value of no more than $800. GD

Generally speaking, yes. Might have to bend or modify a few things to make it work if it's on an '82 as the bumper mount style bar would be different by a little I think. GD

Holy! Wow you are far away for being in just the next state. Didn't realize Pullman, WA was really somewhere in the south seas.... I wish you luck, and sugest you find a reputable shop.... maybe even consider taking it somewhere farther away that has a reputable shop. I'm sure the WA people will be able to sugest a few. 100 or 200 miles for a decent, correct repair is worth it. Take a grayhound back or rent a car maybe. If the tranny fluid seems low, add a little. Check the clutch cable - it's under your spare tire connected to a blue fork looking device. It should not be loose. If you can move it at all, it should be tightened till it's snug. You can do this yourself with just 10 and 12 mm wrenches, or even a pair of pliers and a small crescent wrench. I've also seen places advertise free clutch adjustment. Have a board member look at it though - and takers? I'm sure if you offer a pack of beer or something someone will drop by and take a look. GD

Broken block? Not likely. Take a look at it first to be sure - Probably something silly like an intake gasket. People have no idea about Subaru's - I see em for sale because the timing belt broke and they think the valves are bent. People - especially texas residents - have no idea about soobs. Ask Calebz - he knows. GD

Owner says it uses coolant right? Most likely the intake manifold gaskets. Easy to do a compression test and see for sure. Like I said - hydro lifter engine so grab it. Just yank the motor in the night and leave that useless body in the yard where it's sitting. You need an alternator too. GD

Previous post is not totally correct. Subaru's are not that bad about rust, but you MUST maintain them if you live in areas that salt the roads. You must get them undercoated every year, and wash them down after driving in the winter. Really it's not that hard. But most have seen better days because they were not cared for - once the rust gets a solid grip on the car it will never let go. As to computer controls - Subaru's stopped using carbs completely after 87. The only computer controlled versions were the 49 states 2WD, and the california models. ALL others were normal carbs with no computer - even in 87. Now - the Hitachi carburator used on the soobs is not a very pretty peice of equipment - they can be finicky - especially with the choke. Best idea is to get a carbed model, and replace the Hitachi with a Weber 32/36 just like the VW's you are familair with. GD

What is that light from? GD

There are shops that can take your tank and refurb it - they pour in a lining to seal it up. If it's not too bad it may be cheaper and easier to go that route. Otherwise there are plenty of people with old ru's out here that have no rust. Tanks out here are as good as new for the most part. GD

pressure plate. GD

Might as well build your own - they never made em for EA82's. Sorry. All that cool stuff went away after 84. GD

Subaru (here in states) sold lots of push bars, brush guards, even winches and such. No - won't fit your 87. Sorry. Could maybe do some welding and modify it tho. GD

Any FWD 5 speed from an 85-89 will do the job. They are all the same. GD

EA82 is your engine type. Grinding going into all gears could be the clutch, but only one gear like that - almost certainly the transmission. Most junk yards will give a 30 day warantee on tranmissions they pull and sell you - ones from the yard (you pull) are just a gamble. As for which car - you can use the 5 speed 2WD from any 85-89 Wagon, Sedan, or Coupe, or from a 90-94 Loyale Wagon or Sedan. NOT from a Legacy. There are lots and lots out there for you, so it shouldn't be hard. Likely someone in your area here on the board will have one tho - like I said they are not desirable due to most people wanting the 4WD. GD

Yep. Not where I got mine - can't find the link, but here is a site: http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Subaru-Pin-Wrench-Socket---SU-022.HTML This one is a little cheaper: http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=255&cat=Subaru+Tools+ Check shipping prices to be sure tho. Same tool I have I think. Works awesome with an impact. GD

Sure - just unbolt it from the engine, and the trans x-member. Whole thing will just fall out basically. Oh - and the driveline, but that's only a few bolts on the diff. I use a rope around the tailshaft and up through the shifter hole, and then slammed in the door, one person lifting from under the hood with the starter hole, and a myself underneath to manhandle it back into place when you go for the re-install. Not hard at all. Another trick - don't bother with the clutch alignment tool - just loosen the PP and then tighten the bolts through the starter hole. Gd

Don't fret the 3AT too much - I took a 78 wagon with an EA71 and the 3AT up to about 85 mph on the freeway. Poor thing wouldn't get out of it's own way with a running start from a stoplight. Sure could move down hill on the freeway tho. Scary - very scary in such a small car. Almost needed the jaws of life to get back out of that car. 2WD Auto - bieng an '83 that should have a hydrualic lifter EA81 - definately worth the asking price if that's the case. Otherwise let it rot. GD

I've done the conversion as well - and yes, Miles has done it, along with some others.... it's still not something I would reccomend to anyone other than a mechanically inclined subaru nut. While it may be worth it where you live, it simply is not here - there are tons and tons of 4WD EA82's to be had for cheap. I would sugest she swap her engine into a 4WD before bothering with a conversion on a 2WD. GD

Well - here's my thoughts on this - been meaning to fix the slop on mine as I have soooo much other stuff to do before I get around to the 5 speed. Are you drilling the hole, or the roll pins? The roll pins just punch out with a pin punch. Anyway - if you have a broken bit in there, it's going to be much harder. Best to drop the tranny at that point so you can get more stank on it. Use a lot of cutting oil to prevent the bit from going dull in minutes. I have come up with a new approach but have yet to try it - get two of those hardened hex set screws and drill holes on either side of the shifter. Grind some flat spots on the transmission rod, and reef those set screws down till it doesn't move..... here's a pic I whipped up: GD

I drove in the ice storm we had a couple years ago with my 3WD - really knarly on the ice. The rear end wants to walk out to whichever side has the axle still in. Weird feeling. GD

Crap dude - got called into work, and forgot my personal phone at home. I see you called a bunch of times. Was going to call you (from Eugene!) but of course your number is in my 870, and all I grabbed was my work phone. We had a price increase, and everything is going nuts - had to re-measure a bunch of houses and a duplex in Salem and Eugene today. I just got home (9:00 PM). Boy how I wish I wasn't salery.... Where is Kenny? GD

Out here the yards remove the tank and put it in the back seat or trunk so they are availible from the junk yards here.... not sure about where you live. Shipping wouldn't be all that bad, but have to clean it up good and cover sharp edges with cardboard ect - still it certainly wouldn't be $250. Have you tried any radiator/gas tank shops? They could probably patch it as well. Also try the wanted forum here on our board - perhaps someone is parting a car in your area. As for this being common - it's a rust-effect from your salt. Out here I've never seen any subaru fuel tank leak no matter how old. GD

Perhaps you can get a tranny from a member here (try the wanted forum), and I'm sure another member would be willing to install it. I know that I would do it for you for $200 labor no problem, but I'm not real close. $100 for a FWD trans is a bit high as they are not very desirable. Maybe a case of beer, or $25 - the pull-a-parts in WA charge $100 for any trans tho from the yard if you pull it. Also - with the trans out, the clutch is right there, and it might be wise to install a new or rebuilt clutch pack while you are in there. Just to avoid doing it again soon. Definately at least want to put in a new release bearing even if the old one is good. Should check and possible replace the rear main seal for the engine as well. Rear main is about $10, and the release bearing is about $25. Converting to 4WD - while possible - is probably not something that a non-mechanic would want to go after. Seriously most people here on the board have never done it, and really are not qualified to tell you what all you need. From a labor point of view it's not terrible, but the list of parts you need to make it correct, and stock is fairly extensive. GD

Likely the sender is not bad - you probably have no oil pressure. Been there. Get a new oil pump NOW or suffer a blown rod sooner rather than later. A re-seal is NOT sufficient. Once those idiot lights start going on, you need to TEST the oil pressure. I replaced the seals in one that had a similar problem - engine blew a rod about 5k miles later. Test your pressure, and do the smart thing - install a real guage. The idiot light for oil pressure is probably why there are so few DL's left. Bad design to remove an engine safety item from a stripped down model. GD

Subaru has always been very much into reliablilty - msot things are relay controled except for I think the starter solenoid. My friends Audi A4 burnt out the headlight switch because there is no relay in the circuit - seriously what is Bosch thinking? GD

Sweet! I never would have thought to look there. Thanks. Haynes manual is no help at all. GD