GeneralDisorder

Not without about 6" of lift to clear the diff. GD

Ttt Gd

4WD is 14.5... IIRC.... 2WD is 15.9 See - EA81's used different tanks for 2WD and 4WD. There's about 5 different tanks for EA81's... the hatchbacks were different - again also different for 2WD and 4WD, and they increased the capacity after 82 for some models, so there's a bit of variation out there. Smallest I beleive is around 12.5 (4WD hatch), and largest is the 2WD wagon, etc - 15.9 GD

That's true - same with H1 Hummers. The axles are like fuses that protect the rest of the drivetrain. Except in the case of the H1, they are flange bolted in place and easily changed out anywhere, anytime. I had to do a few in weeds and grass - at least you dont need to jack them up. I would love a flange bolt style axle that is easy to change. A little more beefy than stock, with a 4 or 6 bolt flange would be perfect in my opinion. And remedy the weak stub axle design. Personally I don't care if I destroy a diff once every 5 years. GD

Well - my system seems to work well (for me - YMMV). I've swtiched to using EA82 DOJ's on both ends of my EA81 rear axle shafts. They are about 1/2" deeper each, and that gives me enough extra stretch with the EA82 rear coils, in combination with 1" spacer blocks on my diff hanger to prevent them from over-extending. On the EA82 there are two types of rear axles - one with two DOJ's, and one with a CV on the outer end. Get the double DOJ axles for better stretch. On the front - there is a company in CA by the name of GCK that makes some pretty serious EA81 front axles. They are "beyond" 4WD spec for the EA81, and the joints are amazingly strong. They are not remanned in ANY way - even the shaft is brand new. I have not been able to break one no matter how hard I've tried. Possibly with bigger tires and more gearing you could, but even GCK claims they are "optimized for off-road performance". I have to say I'm impressed with them, and I don't say that often. Sadly, they make nothing similar to this for the EA82. Perhaps if you gave them a call..... The next weakest link is definately the rear diff stub axles. I would like to find a way to make some out of a stronger material, or make them from standard steel but not hollow - use a different method to keep them in place. Maybe a cir-clip or a bolt over flange or something. Perhaps move up to the R180 diff, or the R200 in the STi.... need more info on them tho. GD

Should work - you may need to strut tops from an 82+, but I am not sure on that. Knuckles should be the same. GD

They are usually top-end models - probably has a lot of stuff. GD

Might need a can of white lithium grease for some of the innards - that stuff gets pretty gunked up with old grease and rust. GD

If it runs - it's worth $100 as a parts car if nothing else. I bet the tranny is toast or something. Ask him. GD

PCV valve - back of the intake manifold near the middle. 17mm attached to a hose. Follow the hose comming from the little white foam filter inside the air filter houseing and you'll find it. Replace the foam filter too. Carb inlet? C'mon are you serious? Take off the air filter top and it's the BIG hole in the middle. GD

Those will work - just drill two extra holes in each, or convert to 6 lug. I just drill them personally. They are 8" rims tho - that's a little wide. 6.5" or 7" would be better. You can buy these at just about any tire/wheel shop brand new for $25 - $30 each in white or black. Chrome is more. Generally you want the thinest rim you can get that will work with your tires - it will hold the bead better, and there is more rubber to protect the rim from rocks, sidewalks, etc. GD

Depends on what you have more of - time or money. Personally I've seen old head gaskets that have been RUN used again with no problems. And until it's run and the AL block and heads expand to compress the gasket and weld the sucker in place it should be just fine to reuse - give the bolts that little extra turn to insure a slight compression durring install, and let the engine heat do the rest. And I still say do a retorque. It's good practice anyway. Subaru's are NOT swiss watches. But most of the people on here will never learn that. GD

Well - if the engine hasn't been run yet, I would say go ahead and use it again. Unless the grapite on the gasket is all messed up I think I would at least give it a try. When you torque it down the second time, give it an extra 10 ft/lbs or so on each bolt just as a precaution, and I think I would at least do a retorque on that head maybe in 500 miles. GD

It's on the back of the intake manifold - should be a 17mm with a hose comming off. Look for the EGR valve - its on the passenger side - the look to the drivers side in about that same location and you'll find it. You can clean it with carb cleaner - soak it overnight and it will be nice and shiny the next day. Make sure to clean ALL the hoses and connectors going to it as well and be careful removing them as they get brittle with age. I use a screwdriver to clean the gunk out of the hoses. GD

Clean your PCV valve. GD

Sure - just replace with an electric fan - the AC electric fan from an EA81 is thin and should work without a whole lot of modification - you can wire it to run when the AC comes on, or with the existing electric fan. There are also a ton of aftermarket radiator fans out there to be had. Just measure it up and see what you can find. GD

The fuel gauge which has always been a bit jinky in this thing, has now fallen to a seemingly irrepairably "limp" state. The needle sits there about 1/4" below the E. This morning I started the thing, and the needle first went down (weird), and then sprung back up to 1/2 tank. I filled up at work and when I got to the first job site of the day, it was limp. I fill my tank each day, but sometimes do long trips to the beach and back for work so having a gauge is nice. Besides - I like to fix things even if there isn't a particularly good reason. What I'm looking for are the resistance specs of the sending unit in the tank. I get 4 Ohms off it now, so I'm guessing that less resistance means more fuel. What is the max resistance value - ie: empty. Anyone have sugestions on a cheap fuel gauge? Either I have a bad guage (seems likely considering what it's doing and where the needle is sitting - should not be reading 1/4" below the E - I think the gauge ate itself), or a bad wire in the loom somewhere. I can run new wire to a new gauge - that's no problem. Before I get these answers - yes I've checked the connector at the sending unit. All clean there. And NO I will not just track my mileage instead. GD

That's a leone Touring wagon! Neat - get it. Raised roof. GD

Um - well not really. They are controlled off the ignition switch and relay but other than that they just "on" whenever the ignition switch is in start or run. GD

Electric choke, anti-deisel solenoid, and float chamber vent solenoid. GD

They were not originally inteneded for that purpose. They are there as an atifact of the aluminium casting process. But someone noticed a long long time ago that they will pop out if the coolant freezes, so the name stuck. There should be two in each head... they will pop out and end up in the valve covers or down in the oil pan. Lack of proper amounts of anti-freeze in the coolant mixture. GD

Figure out a way to install EA series rear bearings. They last forever. I've seen originals in good shape after 200k miles. GD

Our forum here is pretty great indeed - we can all thank the mods for not putting up with any BS. I'm guilty of it from time to time too - heck - how do you avoid sticking your nose into things sometimes with over 4k posts. I've had my reply's deleted on occasion over the years, and sure I get a little peeved, but in the end it's done to keep everything friendly and fuzzy here. For that I am grateful. GD

I think they must have realized in '82 that a subaru wasn't likely to be able to "pass" a whole lot of other vehicles effectively, and changed the sticker on the button to read "center lamp" - 80/81 read "passing lamp". I have never seen "offroad lamp" - that's a new one to me. Is it geniune? I have one in the garage I may install on my wagon at some point - I have the control box, and the switch for it too... but then I have been collecting parts for what amount to years now. I have actually forgotton some of the interesting things burried in my garage. Maybe some of it will surface one day. GD

First - you should start a new thread as you won't get many responses by hijacking another thread. Discs and 6 lug = good Turbo = bad for reliablilty, and bad for lifted off-roading. Not a lot more power, no low end when you need it, and the turbo needs RPM's to spool - high RPM's are your enemy off-road. Too much paraphenalia to break off-road. I hate people that bring complicated machines out in the mud. Always end up pulling them out. Think to yourself "would I want this on a farm tractor?" 27" tires = gearing sucks - expect to get 20 MPG with a well tuned Weber. Not for a daily. Lift will do nothing except allow the tire install. I run 28's and love em. Too damn expensive for a daily tho. Small engine - big tires = bad mileage, and expensive tire wear. Accell coils are junk - they switched to Mexico for their supplier. Lots of bad stories about them. Do a search and you'll find some good alternatives. Apparently NAPA sells a black coil with the same specs as the "old" accell. Run the stock (OEM only!!!) thermostat. Suffice to say the aftermarket ones suck..... a lot. And run the stock temp if you value your engine. Amsoil is a waste of money on a used EA81. Maybe if you rebuilt the engine. If you plan to off-road you'll be forced to change the oil after each run anyway - synth might be ok for a street rig, but too much dirt, dust, swamp water, and other junk will ruin any oil. I reccomend Chevron - get it from Costco. GD