GeneralDisorder

You mean these? I'm not totally sure, but they actually might still be availible through Les - ask and see. I know they can get brand new 4x140 13's, and I'm pretty sure these are them.... GD

Just a note - those rims won't fit over the front calipers of an EA82 without grinding on the calipers. Wagon wheels are not the same for EA81 vs. EA82. Bumper will not mount on anything but a 2WD EA81 as well - 2WD's have the 5 mph shocks, and 4WD's have a solid mount bumper. They do not interchange. GD

I think the difference you refer to Ed is the difference in the large valve heads vs. the small valve heads. All the 83/84 manual transmission vehicles had the large valves and still had the solid adjustable lifter system. So those he has may or may not have the hydro lifters.... GD

No - your help is appreciated - just wanted everyone else to know that the information isn't quite the same for the EA81. The oil pump issue applies.... sort of. Not the same pump or the same lifters, and completely different oil supply system. GD

Suzuki? We have a Suzuki Vitara here in the states.... never heard of anyone putting a soob motor in, but sounds cool.... GD

Likely a bad voltage regulator - voltage should not go over 14.5 or so. Test it with a MM. GD

That's interesting - I've not noticed the pump alignment without the OE gasket - perhaps that's only with some aftermarket pumps.... I seem to recall last time I did the one on my Brat I didn't have a gasket and just used straight RTV - works fine. Have put over 10k on it, and pretty sure I haven't changed the belt. In the case of water pumps, the RTV seems like a good choice even with the gasket - especially the cardboard. Makes removal later a lot easier. I have noticed that the stamped impeller doesn't seem to cool as well as the forged impeller type pumps. If possible get the forged style. I know Discount Import Parts around here sells them but other than that I can't comment. On the topic of mileage - I have seen a lot of EA81's at the junk yard with what appeared to be the original blue painted subaru factory pump. Usually with well over 200k on them. They do seem to last a long, long time. I think premature failure will result from changing/tightening the alternator belt by the maintenance schedule - the tight belt will eventually chew the bearings. Funny that NOT doing the maintenace and having sloppy belt tension has probably made the water pumps last far longer than anticipated. GD

Just be careful not to snap off more than say.... 1 of the 5 bolts. With some RTV they will seal down with 4 of the 5, but the water pump bolts do tend to sieze up easily being exposed to coolant - especially haveing been in there for 300k. I would sugest a good pre-soak in PB Blaster, and then work them back and forth a lot. I like to slightly tighten them first to try and break them free before I turn them out - and if they start getting stuck, then tighten them up a little and try again - work them back and forth to crush the rust and scale. Also make sure to use a little anti-sieze after properly cleaning the bolts with a wire brush. Not trying to scare you - it really is about the easiest water pump to replace..... ever. But we don't want to over-simplify and break something. GD

I'm sure anything could be made to work with enough effort, but why not just put on the stock fuel injection from a loyale and call it good? I suspect the mount is different between the two types of Hitachi's - as it is between the two types for the EA series. Probably would need to make an adaptor plate, and if you are going that route, then just get the pre-made adaptor from Redline for the DGV, DFV series, and put on a Holley/Weber 5200 off an 80's ford (DFV series licensed by Holley). That will have all the "emmissions" stuff you refer to, which really only amounts to the passive evap systems - float vent solenoid, and idle cut solenoid. Personally I don't count that as "emmissions", but maybe that's just me. As far as I'm concerened, unless you are talking about the feedback carbs with the computer, the carb has little if nothing to do with the emmissions systems on early subaru's. They are pretty much standalone systems that will work with any carb given they are connected properly. The Hitachi's (all of them) are overly complex carbs, and the vacuum secondary is not fun to drive after you are used to a mechanical on the Weber, or the very large throttle body of the SPFI - both have a ton more low end grunt than the Hitachi's do. GD

Cool - glad it got you going again. GD

Sometimes the cone washer under the axle nut can wear and cause a similar noise - check that as well. GD

Pretty sure the turbo will not fit, and even then you would need some form of boost control or you won't notice a lot of different, other than it spools slower due to it's larger size. GD

Nothing will really swap, unless you want to swap the whole engine. The 2.2 Turbo is a nice find. You'll either need the tranny from it, or an adaptor plate to put it in your car. You'll need to strip the engine wireing harness from the car and wire it in with it's computer to your GL - also the exhaust will need some modification. That engine can make a lot of power if done right - it's 165 HP stock tho. GD

Sounds like a bad double offset joint on one of your front axles. GD

Did you use a PCV from the dealer or from a generic parts counter? Many members have experienced bad results with after market PCV's. I'm sure some brands are ok, and others not, but the dealer is only about $5, so I usually just get em there. Change the PCV filter in the air box as well - little white foam guy. If the ASV blows, it will make the engine louder, and sometimes you may smell exhaust if you have a window down or cracked. If the plastic didn't get caught in the carb, then it should be ok till you can get it fixed. GD

Here's the scoop: 80-82 - Solid 83-84 Manual Tranny - Solid 83-84 Auto Tranny - Hydro 85-89 - Hydro And for good measure, the two head types: 80-82 - Small Intake Valve 83-89 - Large Intake Valve Also - it's not *just the lifters that are different - the cam, pushrods, and rocker assembly are too. GD

Topic of discussion = EA81. GD

Seen a pic of one here on the board once - may have been JDM. While there are certainly physical differences in outward appearance, the design, and even many of the internal parts are the same. Subaru has not fundamentally changed the 5 speed design since it appeared in 85. Full-Time-4WD is just the early marketing term for the same thing we have today. They changed the marketing term to AWD, but the concept and implementation remain unchanged. GD

Just go to the Foster U-pull-it and grab one - should be about $5. They have plenty. GD

The vacuum device at the rear is the center diff lock actuator. It does not engage 4WD, but rather eliminates the center diff. GD

Sounds like the PCV valve got stuck and sucked oil into the intake. Check it for proper operation. Check for oil in the air-box. It should be DRY in there. Might also have blown an air suction valve, and sucked some of the plastic silencer material through the carb. Look to see if either of the silencers are melted. GD

The EA81 hydro's are not prone to the same ticking that the EA82's are. The lifters are not above the heads, and thus they have much better oil flow, no o-ring to harden and crack, and no pressure relief spring to give out. The write up on cleaning lifters will not apply directly to the EA81 lifters - they are a different design, and are not assembled in the same way. They can be dissasembled, but it's not the same procedure. Likely you need a new oil pump - if the oil pressure is bad enough for the lifters to tick, then it's a good sign that you need a NEW pump. It's not like the EA82's where you can just reseal the old pump. The EA81 pumps wear out, and want replacing about every 100k or so. If this is neglected, the mains, and rods will wear. My Brat has a permanent imbalance due to a worn main from the PO not changing the oil pump. It's not getting any worse now that it has decent pressure, but it's still annoying at idle and will require a rebuild to correct. On an EA81 - if you don't get at least 20 psi at idle with 10w30 oil, then it's time for a new pump. Test your pressure with a real gauge as the dash units are suspect as are the cheapo sending units. A newly rebuilt EA81 will push easily 25 psi at idle, and 60 psi at cruise, and will peg the gauge at 75 when started cold. GD

What kind of car? GD

That's why when you launch, you lock the diff. Call it what you want, it's a legacy "AWD" transmission with EA bell-housing. Some early non US legacy transmissions also had the diff lock and 1.2:1 low range. And yes - the 85/86 RX was not AWD - it was part time, but with a 1.2:1 low range. So was the EA81 RX Coupe (JDM only). GD

Sticking floats do happen with these - you could get a rebuild kit and remedy most anything that is wrong with the Hitachi you have. Cost about $30 for the kit. The Napa ones seem to be alright. The rebuild is not that difficult, but these are of fair complexity as carbs go. Depending on where you buy it, a rebuilt Hitachi would probably be the next cheapest solution - I think CCR still does them and the price is pretty fair. The official Redline Weber kit is around $400 depending on where you get it. If you find a weber off ebay, buy a rebuild kit, and the proper jets for a subaru, plus the adaptor plate you can come in just under $200 if you are careful - this is the cheapest solution for the weber, but takes some legwork or ebay to locate a sub-$100 DGV Weber. The DGV is simple as carbs go, and is easy to rebuild and change the jets on. The SPFI swap is also nice, but unless you have a donor car or buy one for cheap all the parts needed can cost as much as a weber kit if you get it all from a yard. It's also the most complex and least documented option - involving wireing some relays, splitting the FI harness from the donor car's body harness, and swapping the distributor and coil. GD