GeneralDisorder

Well - there's these guys - local for me, but they will ship. They rebuild a lot of stuff for local shops. Have used them three times myself now, and I've had several friends go there. Excelent work, and they can do the vacuum advance unit as well. http://www.philbingroup.com/ Might be someone local that does this sort of work too - good luck. GD

It's right on top of the engine - just follow the plug wires and you'l find it bolted right on top of the intake manifold in the center. It's just a black flat looking thing. I hear they are rather expensive new, so get a used one from the junk yard and give it a whirl - if nothing else just to make sure that is your problem. GD

So - the EA82 u-joints are not replaceable eh? Weird. I've replaced several u-joints on the EA81 drivelines, so I'm pretty sure those are all serviceable. The aftermarket ones usually have a grease fitting as well - the stock ones do not however - still removable tho. GD

There were some oddities in engines made for other markets - there very well could have been an SPFI EA71 somewhere in the world. They made EJ series engines with distributors in some places, and they did make EA82 body cars with EA71 engines in some parts of the world, although I thought they were carbed - I think there was a guy from Barbados with a loyale such as this on the board for a while. Hard to say, but If you have it then you have it - no way around the fact that it was made, and fits. Only possible conclusion is there existed at some time, in some place, a fuel injected EA71..... it also may have been some sort of special raceing peice from japan. EA82 SPFI fits on the EA81 and it's hard to believe that it was never used on it.... I would venture to guess that Subaru created the SPFI before the EA82 came to the US. It's like the rear disc brakes - they came on EA82T's here in the states but will bolt to the EA81 because it's a design that was not changed, and DID exist on JDM EA81 RX's, and JDM race spec vehicles. It's clearly listed on the literature here on the board as factory equipment on the EA81 RX models. GD

You will have to change the drive gear, and remove one of the mounting ears, but yes. You need one from a carburated EA82, and the electrical will be the same. On the other hand - I have a few extra Hitachi EA81 disty's - sell ya one for cheap.... $25 plus shipping... or $100 plus shipping if you want me to have Philbin Manufacturing redo the bushings and vac advance. GD

Run ATF through it for about 50 miles. GD

Yep - time for new bushings. Take it to a disty shop. GD

Not as hard as you think - I've done timing belts and what not on stuff as new as 2004 - Audi's mostly, but some toyota's and Nissan's, etc. It's really about the same - in some ways easier.. GD

2WD Low range doesn't really seem all that usefull - you won't harm anything to run in 4WD low on pavement, and you'll get more traction. I've done fast take off's in 4WD Low on pavement - never hurt a thing. GD

Correct - any EA81 will work similarly - but best fit will come from an 83/84 wagon, sedan, or coupe, 83-89 hatch, or 83-87 Brat. 80-82 can work too, but are going to look slightly different, as the interrior colors were changed after 82. GD

How much of it is still Subaru... besides portions of the body? If it's just a GM drivetrain under a Subaru body.... that's neat and all, but we've all seen similar stuff.... saw a dodge neon on a yota frame a while back. Looked cool, but still a yota. Now on the other hand if you have used the Subaru independant suspension and worked out custom axles to handle the punishment.... would love to know more about it! GD

That's the oil pressure idiot light switch - probably a bad switch if it went on while driving. As long as you trust your guage change the idiot light switch.... or just ignore it since you have a guage. GD

Remove it and look at it. Remove wheel, and the axle nut - then you can check both the outer CV joint, and the cone washer under the nut. It's probably either the CV joint, or the cone washer.... if the washer is wore out then you may have a situation where the axle has chewed the splines out of the hub, and it will just continue to destroy cone washers and hubs till you change the axle, hub and washer with good ones. Once the splines are chewed the hub AND axle are toast - even if the splines look alright on the axle they are not - within a few K miles the same failure will occur. GD

Pull the hub off as it might be the axle nut was not tight enough and chewed the splines out of the hub. Pretty common - almost as much as bad CV joints. GD

Sounds like the gear that drives the modulator perhaps.... pull the modulator and check the drive gear for wear. Front diff gear oil? GD

Follow the instructions that come with the kit. Take a look at the carb... what were you planning on tuning? Only way to tune a weber is to change the jets..... GD

Hey - Send it to me: cropperr (at) comcast (dot) net, and I'll post it for all to see. GD

Yep - the vapor doesn't get evacuated..... I wouldn't worry too much about it. Those carbon cannistors are supposed to be replaced every 60k miles, so likely it's shot anyway. If you like, just conect the two lines and it will evac the cannistor when it's cold. Doesn't matter much really it's just a passive emmissions thing. You could plug them both and never notice. GD

Turbo automatic will be 3.70:1 differential, and 5 spd D/R will be 3.90:1. Look in the sticker of the REAR differential to check the ratio.... I can tell you it will require you swap the rear diff, driveline, and front axles as well as the pedal assembly, flywheel and clutch setup.... transmission of course, and it's cross member. Possibly part of the exhaust, but I doubt it. Your front axles are the wrong spline count for the 5 spd tranny.... you can either swap the whole axle, or just the inner joint. Up to you. Personally it's easier to do the joint I think. GD

Those solenoids do a couple different things depending on which one you are talking about. They are in place to control things that should only be on or off when the engine meets certain criteria. Usually this means the valve is opened once the engine reaches operating temp. The EGR is controlled in this way, as is the evap cannistor purge line. EGR is not on durring cold running as it would introduce a needless vacuum leak that could cause hessitation. The evap is evacuated of fuel vapor once the engine reaches temp in the same way - vacuum is applied to the purge line of the cannistor. Follow the vacuum lines to determine what the valve controls - then determine if the part is neccesary or not. Incidentally, those valves can be repaired if they still work - just get the broken bit out of the hose, and JB weld it back on. A careful application of JB weld will make it stronger than original. Pretty common and easily pocketed in the junk yard too tho. GD

Ugly - very ugly. Only 115k? I jump for joy if I find any parts with less than 200k in the junk yards here. GD

Check the belt carefully - it may be loose because it is streching and about to break GD

Use the board! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/ Well - I hope a link is enough to get you going - otherwise post back and more detailed info can be issued. GD

Everyone needs a can of white lithium grease - spray the mechanism and you won't be breaking cables... they break sometimes even here on the rustless coast. Since I've taken to spraying all of mine with white lithium when I do the door hinges and all that - nary a problem to be found. GD

Have a look for the fuel pump control unit and wire it to that - I think it gets power from the choke?!?! Weird I know, but that is what I remember. Get one from an EA81 CA model as they are simpler to wire - light blue instead of black. In your Brat (Gen 2 right?) it's above the hood release under the dash. GD