GeneralDisorder

No - the rear can be either two bearing/race sets and a spacer, or can be a single sealed unit. Either way in every case I've seen, the rear is sold as a unit - per wheel - while the front is sold individually. You have to buy four bearings for the front, and two for the rear. 4 seals per wheel all the way around. They are a different size than the front, are held in differently, and the seals are different. I don't see the similarity other than they are both bearings. Have you ever done one? I've done enough to own the special tool for it.... GD

They can rebuild what you have for about what roo-builders would have cost. GD

The GM swap is all about the mounting - wireing is the same, just a different connector. You can get the GM pigtail either from the junk yard or from a parts counter, and just solder / heat shrink it to the harness and you are golden. Write ups are good, but since there are so many varieties of EA82 out there - inboard/outboard alternator, and so forth, it's really best just to get one, and start trying to jam it in there. You'll figure out something, and as long as you have an angle grinder and drill bits the rest is just using what god gave you (hopefully). GD

EH? Front and rear are very different. GD

Are you sure it's #1 and #4?? Those are on different banks... #1 is passenger side front, and #4 is drivers side rear.... do you mean #1 and #3?? If you mean #1 and #3 then you probably have a failed head gasket. Also - did you do the test properly with all the plugs removed, and the throttle plates open while cranking for at least 5 seconds? I'm suspecting you didn't do the test right as those readings are low, but still similar enough, and high enough to almost rule out a head gasket. usually a blown head gasket will read around 10 - 20 psi, but that depends on how it's blown too. GD

Probably sloppy bearings in the tranny. 83/84 should be identical for the same tranny. And as fas as the stub splines - those are the same for ALL EA81 trannys. Even the auto's and turbo's were the same 23 spline stub. GD

Drop in a GM alt - you'll need to modify the brackets a bit, but it's not all that hard. Just get the alt, and then work the brackets around till you come up with a solution. That's what I've done - EA81 here tho, so gonna be different. XT6 alts are close too, so you might be able to get one - I think those are 90 amp. Still not as much as you can get from a good 120 amp GM unit for a caddy. GD

Perhaps your AC clutch is not engaging. The AC idle-up would then make the idle too high as it is expecting to have to drive the compressor. There should be an AC pressure switch that will not allow the compressor to engage unless the system is pressurized with the correct amount of refrigerant. Perhaps you have sprung a leak. Both fans are supposed to come on with the AC - normal. GD

Tight as you can get it. VW bus rear axle nuts are the same size, and those are spec at 250 Ft/lbs I personally go with a 3 ft breaker, and socket. I jump on that a few times with my 200 lbs, then I take to it with the VW axle nut remover tool. Basicall a hand operated impact. With that I can get em to probably close to 300 Ft/lbs or so. Never had any problems. Lots of others do the same with no ill effect. No torque wrench needed. GD

As I recall, new 84 struts are only like $80 each.... But yes - I think the 81/84 should be the same basically. GD

There is also manual choke adaptors, and all the choke styles will interchange. So really, DGV is the carb. The E, or A mean nothing at all anymore. The new kit carb I got from Redline says DGAV stamped on the alum. it came electric. GD

Pretty sure it's a GL thing - 80 - 83 ish. GD

But they are now going back to chains - the new Audi V8's are all chain drive. I guess they can get something they need from doing that. Better for the customer tho - less maintenace. GD

Entirely possible - the question is do the JDM cars have Subaru on one side? GD

Yes - good call. Use a grade 8 bolt and a definately a lock washer. GD

Drill it out - it's not that hard. GD

And the coil. The high performance coil's are not known to be all that reliable. Get a good stock ND coil I say. GD

If someone wants to offer a carfax to me, I'll gladly supply the VIN. I can call the guy and get it. GD

Never seen a dual Weber setup, but VW's had them, so it's possible.... EA82 rear coil overs can be adapted - try to find the 3-way adjustable ones. Beefier axles - well in the front I prefer the GCK axles. Autozone carries them special order. They are real beefy. In the rear, I use the EA82 DOJ cups with EA81 axle shafts - gives more flex and droop for the suspension as the joints are deeper. GD

Concur - I've run the 4 and 5 spd D/R in low at the limit of the speed the engine would allow without damage. 70+ mph will not hurt it. GD

Your backfireing is due to leaks in the exhaust stream - either in the y-pipe, or from the Air Suction Valves. Block then off (quarters work well) or fix the leaks in the pipe. You are introducing fresh oxygen into the exhaust stream and it's mixing with unburnt fuel in the rear of the exhaust. The hot muffler will ignite this. GD

But if you order a door panel (new), they come primered with no molding All paint is original as far as I could tell. GD

Yeah - it is Left hand drive, so probably not AUS, or JDM. I thought perhaps from Mexico or Canada. I really don't know though. It is 2WD, so that part is normal. The weird thing is the badge says Leone on one side, and Subaru on the other. I don't think it's been modified. It does have GL-10 badgeing on the rear gate if that helps. I'll try to get more pictures soon. It's in decent shape - I was considering maybe converting it to 4WD.... kind of a neat engine - spec page says 94 HP stock. More than the SPFI at least. It has good tags, and is titled in Oregon, so it's legal here. Oh - build date on the jam is 01/85 GD

EA82 guys help me out with this one: '85 GL-10, Non-Turbo EA82 MPFI. 2WD 5 Speed. All the GL-10 options - Digi, AC, Cruise, etc. Name badge makes me think possibly Canadian?

Yeah - I have my rear welded - a lot of us with lifts do it. You just weld the spider gears together - I put a high grade bolt in the geer teeth and weld it all together. As for on-road, if the pavement is dry, you'll snap the stock rear axles on a hard turn. The DOJ cups will split open. BUT - the cool thing is that it takes only a few short minutes to remove one axle for pavement driving. I've driven with them in mind you, you just have to be careful not to turn too hard or fast. GD