GeneralDisorder

Usually bad DOJ's (Double offset joints) will not so much make noise as they will vibrate pretty drastically. You would know it - usually gets real bad quick. Check your axle nuts, and make sure the cone washer isn't worn out. Very common on the EA82's I've noticed. GD

Engine is carbed, so fuel is no problem. A mech oil pressure test would be usefull, and probably a compression check now that it has a starter on it. GD

He's making it sound like a big deal so he can charge you more, and scare you off from doing it yourself. Subaru over-engineered nearly everything, and an extra couple inches in the driveline isn't going to make a difference at all. Besides that how does he know how thick it is? He cut it open to find out? Frankly - my money is on doing it myself, and then just having a driveline shop balance it for me. Just cut the tube in the middle, and get some tube that is slightly larger to slide over the existing tube. Drill a lot of small holes in the sleeve, and fill them with weld. Then just have it balanced. Another thing - stock soob u-joints are serviceable - at least all the ones I've seen on EA81's are. Replaced a couple myself actually. GD

Agreed - the cross-hatch usually still looks new even after 100k miles. Don't judge anything till you have looked upon the main bearings tho.... they get pretty sloppy usually. GD

Engine came from a wrecked Loyale - no history on it other than it was wrecked at about 260k miles. Ran after it hit the tree, but the fan shroud punctured the oil filter - they were drunk apparently, and drove it more after that.... radiator was also pretty nuked. Hard to say really, but it was free Engine does have compression, but no oil pressure. It's been sitting for over a year. Even with the plugs out we could not get the oil pressure guage to rise. This could be the sender, or the pump, but even with a LOT of cranking with no plugs the new oil filter was still dry even with a full crankcase of oil. No leaks. Filled the filter to try and prime the system but still can't get the guage to rise. After that I had to leave, but I sugested he put the oil pump from his old engine on this block along with the sender to see if he can get some oil pressure out of it. It cranks and fires a tiny bit, but won't kick over like it should. The scraping noise sounds internal - like dry cylinder walls or dry main bearings - exactly what I would expect for no oil pressure. I suspect that she doesn't have enough compression to fire due to the dry state of everything. Hard to say tho - it's got spark for sure - timed correctly I'm pretty sure. Carb was on the old engine so that shouldn't be a problem, and we can smell gas. No lack of air. Turns over a bit labored - again - like the engine is dry inside. GD

Front main seal - you'll have to pull the timing belts and covers to inpsect it. On the bright side it's a cheap part. $10 or so. GD

What type of engine? GD

I could still use one myself actually.... the dealer still has them for about $115 so unless it's cheaper than that, I'll go with factory fit and finish for $200 alex.... GD

You need to replace the carb base gasket, AND the intake manifold gaskets on either head. The base gaskets are a problem too, but the manifold gaskets are the ones that usually go. They leak coolant into the head while running. Don't mess around - just do them all - they are way cheap. Do a compression check - if you HAVE compression, then it's the manifold gaskets. If you do not, then it's some other problem most likely. GD

I got one of the equus guages too - the silly tubing for the oil pressure isn't really long enough tho - how did you do it? Get more tubing? Whats a source for 1/8" tubing - home depot only carries down to 1/4".... GD

Umm - did you connect the little black wire to the starter solenoid? There are two wires to the starter - one BIG red wire, and a little solenoid wire that goes to the spade terminal on the top of the starter. As to what happened to me - came home to a busted pipe in the ceiling above my toilet - had to rip out half the drywall to get to it, and then make two trips to home depot, etc, etc. I'm just now mopping up. I saw you called, but I've been knee deep in soaked rags, and plumbing parts all night. GD

Pop the retaining ring out of the joint cup and pull the DOJ apart. That way you can at least work on getting the cups off the diff without lying on your back. Just cut the boot band on the joint end of the boot, and replace with a stainless steel hose clamp from home depot. If you clean the grease out of the joint cup in the bottom is a steel plug that you can pry out with a screwdriver. Allows easy access to the splines for soaking with some penetrating lube. GD

What model? EA81 is above the release lever for the hood - driver side under the dash EA82.... similar, but not sure on exact location. Take off the kick panel and you'll find it. It's a pretty obvious looking black relay-ish thing - little bigger than a similarly packaged relay. Edit - it's not a relay - it's a "flasher" module. Looks a lot like a relay tho. Blinkers have no relay to themselves. GD

No lift required - in fact the Subaru engine layout (non-transverse) is ideal to learn this type of repair on as you'll be able to see everything and even be able to touch the stuff without resorting to hireing a midget and trying to fish him through a radiator fan using a mirror. You'll need a basic socket set 1/4", and 3/8" drive - deep sockets help a bunch but are not absolutely needed. 22mm socket for the crank pulley bolt, a set of metric open end wrenches, Basic screwdrivers - couple sizes each of flat and philips. Rags of course - and a pan to catch the coolant in. You can score all of this at Harbor Frieght for cheap, and give yourself a whole weekend just for the belts and water pump. Radiator will go in when you put it back together. Brakes need adjusting? Maybe the rear, but the front are disc. Sounds fishy as the later EA82's had self-adjusting rear drums too. Clutch is slipping? Does it drive alright? Head up a steep hill at 25 MPH and drop it in 4th gear - if it bogs way down then the clutch is fine. Adjust the cable - takes 5 minues. Seriously - make a new post calling out to the CA members in your area. Someone will give you a hand for couple bucks and some beer. GD

Some people have had them for years with no problems, while others have them die rather quickly. The stock coil is also oil cooled, so that's not the issue - pretty normal for those types of coils. Accel stuff is by and large junk in my opinion, but thats just me. The issue is what distributor do you have? The resistance of the coil you use must match the resistance of the ingition module - or you'll blow either the coil (usually) or the ignition module. GD

Weird - I tried a 6mm hex, and it wouldn't fit - 5mm is just a bit too small. WTF is it so special for? Why not just put a simple square plug in there like the EA81? I wonder what Subaru was thinking. Oh well - don't need any special tools my way *edit* - I looked up that tool part, and the EA82 in my driveway is not the square plug like that - it needs an external hex key socket.... which I have - both standard and metric. The 6mm is too big, and the 5mm was just a teensy bit too small...... I'll have to get a pic I guess. Perhaps this oil pump was rebuilt at some point and instead of the stock square plug they installed a hex plug. So apparently it *should* be the same plug as the EA81 has - still would have to buy an adapter for it tho. GD

Well - he's talking EA81 stuff, so I was refering to the XT6 clutch and PP setup not being compatible with the EA81 flywheel. But yes I think you are correct that the EA82 and the XT6 flywheels are similar in the PP mounting. Not sure, but I do beleive that one of them is heavier and better for low-end. Not sure which tho. Also would be good to verify the flywheel step measurement on both. GD

First - what exactly is wrong about it? The fact that I spent no money? I think not. The plug you refer to is nearly impossible to get out most times - 5mm hex plug on the EA82, and on the EA81 the square peice is not much better. At any rate, most kits don't have that size either as noted above. Also - yes I thought about running both gauges, but after having bashed in at least two stock oil pressure senders on my lifted wagon, I decided to do away with the sender completely. Yes - you could relocate it with a right angle fitting, and some braided line - then anchor the sender to the fender, but this is simpler, and cheaper. I have a tap and die set, and drill bits already. The old senders can be pocketed or bought for about $1 at any yard and I already have a few laying around.... the wally world gauge is like $7. The object is to keep it simple and cheap - which I think I did. Argue with it if you like, but it works and it's reversible. It's not like I welded the thing in. GD

While installing aftermarket guages I noticed that they usually don't come with the appropriate subaru thread adaptor - for the oil pressure and the coolant temp sensor. I came up with a neat trick for this tonight. After being dissapointed once again by the contents of a newly aquired mech. oil guage (cheap wall mart model, but same problem with the Autometer setup I got), I had an idea - I grabbed a used up oil pressure sender (leaks from the bottom, but I kept it as a backup), and made my own. Here's what you need: 1 used oil pressure sender (EA81, EA82 are the same) 1 10 x 1.0 tap 1 23/64 Drill Bit Some form of cutting device - I used an angle grinder as it was handy and had a thin cutting abrasive already in it. Could use a hacksaw too - it's only brass, and cuts easy. Here's the pic - I'm sure you can figure out how to do it with the materials list:) Just be vary careful drilling the brass - I recommed a vise so you use both hands on the drill. Also - drill from the threaded end down that way the part you tap with threads will be perfectly round - the threaded end will wobble out a bit as you push the drill through. Unless you have a drill press of course... GD

Check the oil color, and do a COMPRESSION check before you decide it's the head gasket. The intake manifold gaskets will do this sometimes as well - especially if it still runs on all 4. GD

Here ya go - the answer is...... NO. GD

They nested IN the blower motor housing of my new-to-me 86 sedan - I bet they scattered when I turned it on after sitting for 3 years. Still remnants of it in there - got to fish out more with a coat hanger I think. It's down in there with the AC condenser. Anyone know what will kill the smell? Pretty sure pine oil will do it, but how best to deliver that? Spray bottle into the vent intake I guess - with the fan on high? GD

I concur - darwin award winner for sure. At least he would die a winner GD

We all have to stick together to keep the price rock-bottom. Parts is parts. GD

Silly hillbilly. 10 feet up? The point of going this high was? GD