GeneralDisorder

It's about damn time! GD

1. The car talked about in the "EA performance pages" is a carbed model - you have fuel injection, so there is only one type of distributor for your sytem. In fact the SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo engines all use the same disty - 2WD or 4WD. Your advance is set before hand when you time the engine, and the computer retards the timing as needed. 2. That page is wrong about the 2WD advance curve. It's the same as the 4WD curve. This also applies mostly to EA81's, as I'm not even sure the EA82 carbed got the Nippon disty for the 2WD version. At any rate this is a wives tale, and a bad one at that. There are good reasons to swap to the Nippon disty IMO, but better/different advance curve is not one of them. (sorry - doesn't apply to your situation at all - just clarifying). Also - I doubt the weights/springs from the 2WD would even fit the 4WD as they are completely different brands. GD

He's in AUS - it's easier to use the same size engine I think - for the paperwork end of things. Inspections suck. GD

Well - I have a welded rear end, 28" MT's, and 5". When the mud is deep and the water up past my rockers.... the Weber comes in handy. I've been stuck - very, very stuck. The trick is knowing what you can get into, and probably get out of. If I never get stuck I won't know what the capabilities truely are. Ask the people I go with.... I'm certifiable. GD

Lookin sharp. How's the power on the propane? Guess you don't need a heater down in So-Cal eh? GD

It's blue? Do you have the feedback carb?!? Yuckies. Anyway yes - it's attached to the bolt for the hood release cable - right above it. GD

You don't have one under the hood - pretty much guarantee it. Only 80/81 Gen II's have the under-hood pump. Have you checked the FPCU? GD

That's surely different - never seen anything like that here in the states. Totally bizzare. GD

That guy is/was on the board - he posted about his spyder intake problems as I recall.... GD

I totally understand wanting the stock stuff to work. I've been there - very frustrating at times. First thing to do is make sure the choke is pulling off as it should when warm. You may have the choke set so hard that it doesn't open fully, and so it's not getting enough air till you rev it and the high-speed choke pull-off mechanism cuts in. That would explain your warm idle problem. Start it up cold with the air filter top off so you can view the choke plate. Once the engine starts to get warm, the choke should start pulling off (heater coil will heat up the bi-metal spring and pull the choke plate open). Tap the throttle occasionally so the choke plate has a chance to move. You want the choke adjusted such that it's barely closed when cold, and opens up as the engine warms. GD

It's 12v - I've wired them plenty of times for one, and for another it would be silly to use lower voltage for something like that as it's less effecient. Early soobs had the pump under the hood - pre-82 were all like that. They are LOUD - so loud I can "feel" the one in my Brat runnning. On the Brat the pump is much closer to the drivers seat under the cab than the rest of the models. I can hear the one on my 86 sedan too - quite loud. Both are stock pumps. GD

Having a weber will help a LOT. I put one on my 86 sedan I use as my daily, and it's great. Just the simple fact that the secondary is mechanical is invaluable on the trail (on my EA81 lifted wagon). You can't get it to open when in the deep muck and hardly moving. The stock hitachi just doesn't have the oomph for the job. They can be had cheaply - I got one from a board member for $90 shipped - adaptor plate: $38, rebuild kit: $25, New electric choke (it was water when I got it): $32, and three new jets as it was jetted for a BWM: $18, so for about $210 I got a brand new carb for the sedan - rebuilt and properly jetted. Compare that to the price of the Weber "kit" from Redline - $375. It's like a whole different car. The EA82's are sooo gutless with the stock Hitachi. I just couldn't stand it. GD

I think you may need some DOJ's from a 2.2 turbo legacy.... There's tons of combinations out there - call a rebuilder or two and see if you can get an answer from em. GD

Actually they are pretty loud. Normal. GD

Yep - that's a 12v device fo-sho. GD

There are two types of EA81 axles - different DOJ joint spline on the shaft. The 2WD EA81 axle shaft will take an EA82 DOJ.... at least the 23 spline ones..... the 4WD shaft might take a 25 spline DOJ. there is a combination that will work you just have to figure it out. You can also probably get one of the axle companies like Ocala to send you just the joint parts and put them on yourself. GD

Wiggle, and pry on it just a bit while it's turning. That should get it moving. Definately want to replace it since it's obviously been in there for way too long. Don't pry on the mating surface, just on the bit right before the filter. It may break into little peices, and you'll have to dig them out. If it's really stubborn you can loosen the bolts to the crank case halves around the pump area and lightly smack the area with a dead blow soft hammer to dislodge the pump. GD

Well - out here in oregon you have to do an "odometer disclosure" when you register any vehicle under 10 years old, but after 10 years they don't care anymore. So I think you'll be ok. Check your local laws of course. At any rate, make up a reciept from "Bills Hillbilly Tractor Mechanics" (specialzing in foreign autos of course ), and say it was replaced by these guys somewhere in Canada durring a road trip. I wouldn't think it would be that hard to roll the odometer back to the same milage yours is at or less. I rolled the 1 back to a 0 in the cluster I put in my wagon just for laughs (it's lifted and beat to smack besides being over 20 years old, so no worries). But my cluster reads 36k miles now. Hehe. GD

Should be around 2 - 3 PSI. You can get a pressure reducer from any good parts store usually. The performance places that sell lots of holley and edelbrock stuff usually have them. GD

If you have some legacy's in your yards, you might look at the spline count of those guys too. The joint may fit the EA82 axles. GD

Careful with that - sometimes the seal on the tranny end of the cable will fail and suck grease into the tach head - that will cause the needle to go berserk and fly around to 70 MPH when you are going 10. I think it would be easiest to replace the cluster - you may have some corrosion in the tach. But since you don't seem like the type to like "easy", try dissasembling the unit and cleaning the tach. Maybe use some carefully applied dielictric grease for the turny bits inside. I would just get another cluster - but then they are very, very common out here in the west *edit* I just saw you have a loyale - I happen to have a 90 or 91 loyale clouster in the garage - it's from a 4WD push button 5 speed, so if you have an Auto it may not have the gear indicators - not sure. Anyway - I'm not even sure why I brought it home other than it was free from my co-workers wrecked loyale. I would part with it for the low price of $10 plus shipping. (need the motivation to get it to the post office - beer on the way home! ) GD

No - best to start the car immediately as the choke will be correct for the outside temp conditions (assuming it's set correctly to begin with). If you leave the ignition on, then the choke will be "pulled off" and it will start without a choke at all since it thinks the engine is already warm. One of the other reasons the electric choke is not the best is that it does require adjustment for temp extremes - like it may need to be set differently for extremely cold climates, or extremely hot climates. Theretically, a coolant choke should be better, but in practice it doesn't seem to work that way. Another thing - some soobs - mostly the feedback carb ones, run the choke from the fuel pump control unit circuit. This has the advantage that the choke will not get power unless the engine is running, and a tach signal is present. This improves the behavior of the electric choke quite a bit - still does nothing to improve the adjustment for extreme climates problem - only full Fuel Injection can really solve that easily. Yay for choke theory! GD

The 12v is for the heating element behind the spring - it's like a toaster coil. It heats up the bi-metal spring slowly, and pulls the choke off after the engine has had a chance to warm up. Not a perfect system since there is no real correlation between the engine temp and the choke temp - if the engine is warm then the choke hsouing will get warm just from proximity, but if the engine is cold, and the ignition has been on for a short time the choke could pull off without the engine ever being started. In practice it works alright tho, and is definately less complex than the coolant heated choke sytems, and requires less driver input than a manual choke. GD

Yeah - didn't know it would hold up to coolant pressure. GD

All the same, yep. GD