GeneralDisorder

Most likely, or the belt could be loose. Check the alt for AC output - it should be zero. Probably the rectifier is going on it. GD

Feedback carb's - ah yes. Feedback's (carb with ECU, temp sensor, O2 sensor, vacuum modulated enrichment controls, etc, etc) came on all 82 and up 2WD's, and ALL California models. This includes EA81 and EA82's through 87. They came with either the Carter/Weber single barrel (early EA81), and the Hitachi. They actually get very good mileage, and in the case of the EA81 Hitachi version, are decently easy to repair and troubleshoot. The EA82 version is a total mess, and I never did get the one I had to stop throwing codes. It wanted a part replaced that I was unable to locate a good used replacement for, and the dealer wanted my first born for it. I deemed it disposable, and threw on a Weber. GD

NipponDenso. The "other" manufacturer, besides Hitachi, of soob electrical bits. I'll get pics tommorow evening. GD

No rumor Ed - you want pics? Which car shall I take the pictures of? GD

Agro tires - expecially Bias-Ply make a horrific racket. Especially when cold/new. But if you have radials it's probably a wheel bearing. Humming is generally wheel bearings - tires may vibrate, but unless they are the aformentioned type, they should be quiet enough. GD

Wives tale - doesn't change a thing. They fit better with the Weber, but that's all. 84 will already have the large intake valves - so your engine is 74 HP stock. Weber and better exhaust from the y-pipe back will help - probably worth about 2-3 HP. It feels like more by "seat of the pants" but it's not. The progressive linkage, and larger main barrel the Weber gives it a more sporty low-end. Top end is almost unchanged. You can get nearly the same effect (not quite as good, but WAY cheaper) by wraping a bit of coat hanger around part of the linkage in the Hitachi to give it a progressive opening like the Weber. Still - the Weber is easier to work on, more rugged and reliable. Not to mention a lot simpler. If you want 100 HP, you need to port and deck the heads, change the pistons, and most of all - change the cam, and recurve the disty to match. Mileage will be crap, but you can get there. You are looking at about $500 in parts to tear it down and rebuild it to 100 HP specs. That's assuming you do it yourself.... there's a couple special tools needed to split the block as well but for a one off you could make do with a coat hanger and cheap auto-parts store junk. 140 HP is possible, but will cost you about $5k in parts. It's done for the experimental aviation community all the time, but they pay $10k for an engine and are ecstatic about how "cheap" it was. They make custom dual port heads (milled stock heads - TIG welded intake flanges, and flow-benched...), dual plug ignition systems, custom MPFI intake, extra powerful lubrication, etc, etc. GD

Sounds like wheel bearings to me. Maybe the other one is going. Jack it up, and try to move the wheel with the parking brake OFF. GD

It's a nice idea really - but being tall, my knee is about in that location... although still might give it a whirl. I'll carefully remove the original vinyl from the door panel and recover it in cheap blue garbage from the fabric store first tho. Can't be too careful about saving the hard to find parts.... You realize that someone would have paid you pretty good for those? This is why you are getting a perfect ignition lock WITH door locks and original key from ME.... GD

Your timing is off. Do a search in this section of the forum for the proper porcedure. You have to have the cams rotated 180 degrees from each other, and make sure you are using the valve timing marks and not the ignition timing marks on the flywheel (there are two sets of lines). Also with the timing off, you cannot accurately check the compression since the valves are not opening and closing at the correct times. GD

www.rockauto.com $8.56 each - look under 1984 GL. It's listed as a rear engine mount for a manual trans. They have Beck/Arnley ones too for like $31 each. GD

To bad you just ruined two perfect blue door panels. Sorry - it's just that it's the same panel that fits a Brat - Hatch/Brat/Coupe. Hard to find in good shape. GD

Every weber filer I've seen does. Should be a 1/2" hole on the bottom of the filter, and a white or black plastic screw-in fitting. Go to a VW (import) shop and get another filter - they are like $10 with the element, and the covers and clips. Comes with the breather fittings. GD

Use the fitting from the (or maybe anoter one from the junk yard - some don't have it) Hitachi on the Weber - that way the return line will hook up. Run the breathers to a T and into the weber filter. Same with the PCV valve. GD

What's the specs? 4WD? Power steering? What's it got that's rare enough to warrent the work to keep it? EA81 wagons are a dime a dozen, but if it's special in some way you might consider keeping it. And if you decide to get rid of it at a junk yard, at least let us board members pick the parts from it first..... like if it has power steering I could use that.... GD

Great - that sounds like your problem. Not often do I see those fail. I always put them on the Weber's that I use as well - well worth the $30 for it not to diesel in the summer. I hate that sound. GD

Get the Fel-Pro sets - www.rockauto.com has them for a good price. Other than Fel-Pro and OEM, a lot of gaskets out there are junk. Still use OEM for oil pan, intake manifold, and oil pump rings. GD

Coolant passage in the block, and top mount starter - buy all your parts for an '80 wagon with the 1.6L - that should get you what you need. Glad the disty has found a home! GD

Look under the manifold - see if the water passage is cast into the block, or there is a seperate pipe that bolts to the block and the water pump.... Or another way - pull the water pump and compare it to an EA81 water pump. If they are the same, it's the later EA71. If they are different then it's the older casting. Is the starter on the top or the side? That will tell you something too. There was like three different EA71's - the early one in the Gen 1 body's, the later one that went into early Gen 2's (like 80, 81), and then the "fat-case" which is a strange animal with the starter on the side like an EA81. That came in the later STD hatchbacks (85-89 for sure, possibly 83/84 or so as well - I'm not totally sure). There were even JDM EA71's that sometimes made it here from late-80's vintage - hydro lifters and other fancy things can sometimes be found in those. If you have weird seafoam green valve covers, and gold stickers written in japanese only.... all bets are off Being that the later EA71's (80 and up) were rare, and even almost unseen after 81, there isn't a lot of info around about what things were like on them. The 82+ ones being the rarest, and only offered on the lowest of the low end models like the STD hatch, which came as a FWD 4 speed, with NO options. GD

Interesting..... so you say you *pulled* the wire and it idles? I ask because that solenoid should be powered in order to open the idle circuit. Pulling it's wire should cut the idle circuit completely, and kill the engine... How fast is your idle set? Maybe the idle circuit is actualy clogged and sputtering fuel instead of spraying it properly.... just a guess. If you adjust the idle screw high enough you will actually open the main throttle and it will "idle" off that instead.... just usually pretty fast. GD

I'm no expert on the SPFI (just learning about it myself), but it sounds like a sensor issue perhaps. I know the O2 sensors get old and slow, and I've had one fail completely on a feedback carb once - original sensor - 150k on it at the time. Maybe check or try another MAF, and the coolant temp sensor is also a good one to check out... the TPS is sometimes an issue, but I would think your problems would be more pronounced. Just a guess. Remember - it may *seem* like timing, but the fuel computer controls that.... GD

Perhaps a vacuum leak - spray some carb cleaner around the manifold and see if the idle increases or smoothes out. Easy test to rule it out. GD

One thing of note - Subaru just lays out the models of each brand of plugs that will work. Classically, the subaru being an import they were shipped to the dealer with no plugs (being on a boat from Japan, they didn't want the cylinders to rust). It was up to the dealer do decide which brand of plugs to use. My 86 sedan for example came off the lot brand new with a set of Champion plugs :-\ GD

Interesting - usually I find that the carb base or the manifold gaskets are to blame for coolant loss. Perhaps it has someting to do with aftermarket vs. OEM head gaskets. GD

Rear diff is the same - Hitachi R160. So you just need to make sure that either you already have a 3.9 ratio rear in that Imp, or get one from the junk yard. Should bolt right up tho. Axles too. Front axles are a different story - not sure on the Imp spline count. May need to put different DOJ's on the front axles. GD

And what were your symtoms then? (also - turbo's are a different animal....) GD