GeneralDisorder

Well - if you take the towers off (shouldn't have to unless you are doing a HG job) then you'll find there is no gasket there - only a small groove (about 1/16" wide) that you are supposed to fill with either anerobic sealant, or a lot of us just use RTV. RTV has come a long way in 20 years and has served me well for the cam tower seal as well. Anerobic is nice too if you already have some. There was someone a while back the used o-ring cord on that slot - apparenly worked well. I'm not sure where you would get such a thing tho. GD

That would be sweet - especially in a STD. Always have liked the STD hatch. Interesting tho - the STD hatch came with the EA71.... so perhaps he has a replacement engine already. GD

Cam covers can be made to not leak with a little RTV - at least that has been my experience with the EA82. Just make sure you remove the gasket from the cover, and clean it real well - use some alcohol to make sure there is no residual oil on the gasket and mating surfaces. Use some Ultra Grey on it. Less is more here - a 1/8" bead is plenty. If you do it right it will never leak again (till you have to remove it). I would NOT do the cam covers till you know for sure it's not a HG or you will ruin your carefully applied RTV. And for the intake - definately worth doing both the intake manifold gaskets and the SPFI base gasket at the same time. Good thing here is that if you have to do a HG later the intake manifold gaskets will still be reusable. The dealer ones will anyway - aftermarket carboard ones suck. GD

Sounds like you have a slow leak in your coolant system somewhere. Could definately be a HG on the way out, but intake manifold gaskets, and throttle body base gaskets also will leak coolant (and cooling system pressure) into the intake where it will be burnt. A new set of manifold gaskets are about $6 from the dealer (only get them from the dealer - others are extremely inferior). And the SPFI base gasket shouldn't be much - could always make one from a sheet of gasket material if it is. I would replace both of those before going all out with a HG job. Might be an easy fix GD

Wrong. Quote - directly from 83 FSM. Page 5-14, Section 4, Subsection 2: "2) Operational principle The exhaust gas pulsation is transmitted to the air suction valve (a kind of check valve having reed valves) through the air suction pipe. When the negative pressure of a pulsation is transferred to the ASV, the reeds of air suction valve are opened and simultaneously fresh air from the air cleaner is sucked by itself into the exhaust passage. When on the other hand, the positive presssure reaches the ASV, the reeds are closed to prevent the adverse flow of exhaust gas." I know you aren't much for this fancy emmissions stuff Ken - maybe you are mistaking it for some other system..... although other than the EGR I can't think of what. . Yes - I'm an a$$ sometimes. It's who I am, and I'm ok with that. . But I do offer help, and with it some advice - people need to READ. It's all about the books and the search functions guys. An I stand by what I said about the EA81. It CAN make decent power - The aviation community has shown 140 HP (dyno'd) with heavily modified heads, cam, forged pistons, MPFI, and dual plug ignition.... but at a cost of around $10,000 per engine it would be absolute insanity to put one in a car. I would say that 100 HP is definately possible with the stock heads, but you are going to move it up the RPM range quite a bit to get it. The JDM dual carb engines were 108 HP, but with different heads, cam and compression ratio. We can get the cam and compression, but not the heads. 100 may be possible. It's what I'm shooting for anyway. Torque is NOT HP, they are totally different measurements - just look at a small diesel to see that. A Weber, exhaust, and disty recurve will give you great torque, but probably only 1 or 2 HP - maybe not even that. The "seat of the pants" that you guys feel is the progressive linkage of the Weber - it jerks open instead of openeing slowly with vacuum. Giving a more "sporty" feel to your pedal. HP is the same. I can go just as fast with a Hitachi properly tuned up. Had my wagon to 110 with one when it was 2WD. Still did 110 after the Weber. Top end is the same. GD

150? HAHAHAHA GD

Fill it with coolant and run it to operating temp in your driveway - check for leaks (check other fluids too of course, and lights and stuff). If you don't find any leaks or other weirdness, take it for a test drive. GD

Airbag? No GL-10 that I've ever seen came with airbags. As for wheels - Any EA82 will fit. EJ cars are different (or is is just that the MOMO adaptor is different?), as are Justy's and EA81's (same)... I think Grant makes a hub adaptor (they do for EA81 anyway), and they sell some nice inexpensive wheels. MOMO has discontinued their adaptor. GD

Could be a year thing - the one I pulled off the coupe door that is now on my Brat was like that.... maybe depends on the year and style of the trim strip.... either that or it was painted or something and I didn't notice. Body shop could have put them on I suppose GD

They have little screws under the rubber - the track screws on. Little phillips heads IIRC. They leave holes :-\ GD

Gosh! you are totally right! I should have also said: USE THE SEARCH!!! GD

You might have some difficulty with the fuel maps in the ECU being pretty far off. The EA81 is close to the EA82 in design and displacement, but the older EA71 is getting to be far enough different that it may need a custom mega-squirt ECU to run it properly. Even an EA81 could benifit from this I think (I plan to try it), as the engine doesn't breathe quite as well as the EA82, and has lower compression besides. As for the manifold fitment - I would make adaptors for each head to move the intake ports out far enough to bolt the stock EA82 manifold on. The manifold would be tough to weld as coolant runs through it, and the coolant port would need to be sealed up... not sure how you would do that except with a pretty fancy weld where you notch out one side to weld the interior, and then weld the hole up that you welded the coolant runner through.... messy to say the least, and you would need someone with some fantasic TIG skills. Should be able to make some two peice adaptors from some AL plate pretty easily if you have a drill press ($39.99 from HF!) GD

Frankly, you will get zilch for HP. You will get a definate change in the torque curve, which most people claim is "more HP" but really isn't. Without changing the cam, there is nothing you can do to the EA81 for more HP - it will still make 74 HP at 4200 RPM. It will breathe a lot better at low RPM due to the progressive linkage of the Weber, and recurving the disty will help to bring the torque down lower. Great for off road. On road performance will benifit too - low end help you break the tires loose on pavement just as much as it gives you traction off road. You still won't break ~100 Mph with the car tho - peak HP will be virtually unchanged. For that - you need a cam, or forced induction. The emmissions system of an EA81 non-feedback hitachi equipped engine is entirely passive - in other words it uses no engine driven pumps or systems. Therefore it uses NO power at all. The emmissions is composed of three systems - EGR, Catalyst, and Evaporative. The EGR introduces intert gas into the combustion to reduce oxides of nitrogen by reducing combustion temps. It's really a catch 22 with this system - if it's operating properly, a cooler combustion chamber will have a more dense air charge, so will have MORE power. But at the same time the inert gas takes up some of the space normally occupied by fuel/air mixture, and so reduces power by just about as much. It does in some engines (not specifically EA81's) prevent problems associated with burnt valves - especially in engines counting on it's operation. The Catalyst system is composed of the converter in your exhaust, and subaru's own version of a "smog pump" that is a reed valve called the "air suction valve". The system is generally refered to as the AIS system (air injection system). The ASV provides fresh unburnt oxygen to the cat in order for it to work. This system is totally passive as it uses the exhaust pulse to open a reed valve and allow fresh oxygen to be pulled into the exhaust stream from scavenging action. The evap system is just a charcoal cannister used to trap wayward fuel vapor from the carb float bowl and fuel tank. There are a few thermo vac valves and purge solenoids to allow the engine to burn this vapor later once the engine is started and reaches operating temp. That's IT - there is nothing else. So please stop asking about removing this junk - it does not sap your HP already! Removed it if you like (I do), but UNDERSTAND what it does, and why, before you mess with it. And asking this question again will just piss me off - so please quit it! GD

EA81's and EA82 are different beasts - keep this in mind. The FP relay is nowhere near the seats on an EA82.... GD

Might be off a small nissan motor - they used a lot of Hitachi's as well. GD

Yeah - there usually is, but being they are V belts on your's, the torque of the bolt will hold it in place just fine. I've made them from the shank of a properly sized drill bit, but on my latest EA82 I just took the belts off a few weeks ago for the first time to find it's been lost prior to being owned by me. Just forget about it and the world will return to being right. GD

On a soob, 95% of the time that will ruin the boot. Plus there is the matter of the castle nut and having to replace the cotter pin... those are a consumable about 50% of the time they are taken off. GD

Great! That means it should be a slam dunk once the fuel pump is operating. I'll be interested to hear how you like the swap - I'm in the process of the same swap myself. Just finished up pinning the gear on the disty, and cutting off the second mounting tab. I'm going to do an EA81 specific write up of the process soon. GD

I agree - they are very nice, and put heli-coil to shame. My low cost solution is to tap the heads over to the next std size. The next size up (7/16" IIRC) taps in without drilling, and being that you have gone up a size in stud (or bolt - I generally use a bolt as they are easier to find), the clamping force and reliability go up by a good factor. It's worked well for me anyway - both on and off road. GD

Yes - you can drop the quarters in the pipe on either end. The valves will not operate if they are not exposed to the exhaust pulse. Are your reed valves vacuum operated? Some are, and most aren't. Have a look and block the vacuum line to the top of the reed valve if you have one. Did you check out the carb? Look down into the barrels and operate the throttle shafts to make sure they move smoothly. Might still be that dern silincer plastic.... GD

The gears are not your problem - does that passenger bank light up at higher RPM? Could be a vacuum leak on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Spray around with carb cleaner to find vac leaks, do a compression test to verify compression, and check for spark and plug condition. GD

What makes your think that? GD

Tire inflation, tire wear, and tire size. Check them all or just have 4 new tires installed - your trouble will magically dissapear . GD

Well - the US EA71 manifolds use the same carb pattern as the EA81... same weber adaptor for both engines. The JDM manifold very well may be different. I have one of those odd-ball carbs in the garage too - came from an EA71, but doesn't look like anything I've ever seen on a soob from the US. Maybe it's from a JDM too. I think your best bet is to aquire an EA71 manifold (or if this is a later EA71 JDM import, the EA81 manifold may fit). The EA71 had about three maybe four models produced over the years, and the later models are hard to come by so there is a lot of fuzy confusion about manifolds and interchagability with various years of the EA71 block. Just a thought - it's not a carter/weber single barrel is it? Those came on some EA81's.... maybe in japan they got them on the EA71 too?? If so, there is no weber adaptor plate for those.... GD

The oil pump drive sprocket is the same size as the crank sprocket, so it does turn at full engine speed, not half speed as the EA81 pump does. It's interesting to note that the EA81 pump does not last any longer because of this (both engines need new pumps about every 100k). The wear on the pump components has more correlation to the quality of the oil and hours of operation than it does to number of rotations or mileage. The engine heat bakes the o-rings, and the oil particulates eat the pump surfaces. GD