GeneralDisorder

Yeah - the inner tie rods do get sloppy - especially if the accordian boot rips and you get muddy silt in there from crossing creek beds and such. I've had to replace a few, and come to find that almost every one I checked at the junk yards was also worn. They usually have maybe 1/32" of play or so, although I've seen worse too. This translates to quite a bit of play at the outside of the tire - especially with the big tires a lot of us lifted types run. It's really amazing how small amounts of wear are magnified and quickened by larger tires. Good prices on inner and outer tie rod bits: www.rockauto.com GD

The pinch bolt on the ball joint is harder to mess with since the sway bar keeps the control arm from moving, so you have to exert pressure on the lower control arm to keep it out of your way. Also working near that ball joint boot is asking to rip it open. Beleive me - I've tried every method out there. GD

Since it's temp related it sounds more like a cold running condition of the engine than a clutch issue.... like the engine is bucking under load when cold. I would start with a tune up and vacuum test of the engine when cold. GD

I said "usually" in my post. There are of course other reasons, and when you are talking lifted or lowered vehicles with mods, then all this discussion is out the window. With a stock setup and stock tires the toe adjustment is the only one. As long as your ball joints, tie rods/ends, and bushings (control arm, and strut top) are in good shape, the alignment is a factory setting that cannot be changed. This makes it pretty easy to figure out your alignment - set the toe where it was before, and replace any worn parts - shazam - car is aligned. Bad ball joints are the usual tire wear problem points - when they get sloppy the outer edge of the tire will wear badly on turns as the weight of the vehicle is being pushed against the ball joint and causes the tire to ride up on it's edge. GD

Your problems are PCV valve, hoses, and filter Broken rings will smoke out the tailpipe - a LOT, besides they are uncommon (very), and you would know it.... like it would probably snap a rod. Air comming out of the oil filler is normal - the crankcase is under pressure - hence the one way check valve in the PCV. Your filler cap rubber gasket may be ill-fitting as well - some of them get flat and loose. GD

The easy way: Step 1 disconnect the lower control arm bolt (1 long bolt) on the inner end of the control arm where it attaches to the engine cross member. Step 2 disconnect the sway bar link. Step 3 pull axle off tranny. You will have more than enough room - probably a good 1" extra. GD

First time - set aside 6 to 8 hours for the whole job. Leave the belt covers in the trash can too. GD

SPFI come from an Auto? Neutral safety switch? Just a guess. Did the donor have the auto seatbelts? I wonder if there is something with those being that they connect to the ECU.... When you crank it do you get spark but no fuel or fuel and no spark? Or neither? GD

The cables can frey where they pass through the firewall and eventually snap. Also inside the cable is a plastic jacket around the cable, and it's filled with a dry lubricant. The plastic eventually wears through, and the cable gets very hard to operate. On the other hand, I've had pressure plates wear out and be tough the disengage as well. Best thing is to try the cable as it's cheap and you obviously need one anyway. Then if it's still extremely tight just replace the whole clutch. It's not hard and the engine does not need to be pulled. Just remove the radiator and pull the engine forward enough to get the clutch out. You can drive the car with no cable at all - you just the rev-match to shift, and start the engine in first gear. Warm it up in neutral and then shut it off and restart in first gear. GD

I'm 6'2" and 210 lbs, and I can fit fine in my Gen 2. I did replace the seats with Izuzu Impulse seats, which sit about 2" lower. Gives more legroom and headroom. But I could and did drive it with the stock seats as well. GD

I've never required an alignment on any soob I've owned. If you mark where the threads were on the old parts, you can match it up perfectly. The only adjustment on a soob is the tie rod ends. As long as you have that right, the alignment is set. Tire wear is usually a result of bad ball joints, or bad inflation. As for replacement - remove the boot, and use a hammer and chisel to bend the washer back on the nut - then use a big wrench to unscrew the rod. GD

Sounds electrical to me - like the fuel pump is running in the crank position, but not in the run. GD

Holy crap that's cheap. Nice find. GD

But his symptoms are oil IN the airbox, not "burning" oil..... it's getting sucked up through the valve covers, yes - but there is oil present there for the cam lobes and such in great quantity regardless of the shape the valve stem seals are in - preventing the oil from entering the airbox will solve his problem, and that's the job of the PCV system. GD

Normal - grind on the adaptor if you like, but I've ground a few, and not ground others - doesn't seem to matter. If you are really up for a project - get an EA82 intake, and the adaptor for it. They flow better, and the adaptor fits a little better too. Sorry you bought the kit - I made that same mistake my first time. Such a rip off for what you get. GD

Almost certainly the DOJ on one of the front axles. GD

4WD in a subaru is EXACTLY like 4WD in any other vehicle. In 4WD you will experience torque bind with any truck or SUV unless they have a center differential - this is refered to as AWD, or Full Time 4WD. A lot of trucks you have to backup 100 feet to get them out of 4WD. Clearly you haven't driven ANY vehicle with 4WD, or haven't used it. GD

Yep. $60 well spent. Replace the cam and crank seals while you are in there. Repack or replace the tensioner and idler pulleys for the timing belts, and leave the covers off. Check the belts of course - and the water pump. GD

Vitually nothing you can "mod". Changing the gap will end up damaging your coil - .5 is too much for a stock coil. Aftermarket "high power" coil is possible, but will stress the ignitor in the distributor. Going to a larger spark gap will net you zilch in the way of power. A properly tuned stock ignition system is more than adequate for the stock EA82. You can drill some holes in the bottom of the air-box as the stock intake under the fender is small, and has a lot of sharp bends in it. That will give you better throttle response. K&N filter or a cone filter is a nice addition as well. And you can change the muffler to a "turbo" muffler. The stock one is fairly restrictive. You could change the cams - Delta Cam in Tacoma WA has several grinds for EA82's. That requires quite a bit of work tho. Other than a few simple things, the EA82 has almost zero aftermarket for it. There's plenty that can be done to the turbo models, but largely the N/A versions are a dead end. The SPFI is already 9.5:1 compression. The heads flow terrible so high HP is not really possible. There is plenty that can be done with the low-end torque curve for off-roading and such, but you have to start with new cam grinds. GD

Sure - but a good cleaning and re-install will usually fix that. The EGR is not a consumable - it's designed to be cleaned every 60k, and last the life of the car. GD

Well - what do you mean by "what can I do?" For starters you can.... drive it..... GD

EGR light on older models (carbs mostly) is mileage controlled - you just have to swap some green connectors under the drivers side dash and it will go away for another 60k miles. GD

Replace the PCV valve - some aftermarket onese are known for this. And also REPLACE the PCV foam filter inside the airbox. Cleaning is not enough for this one - get it from the dealer for a couple dollars. GD

Gen 2 Brat tailgate trim?? (and the little plastic clips that hold it on) They made the Brat elsewhere till at least '94, so there has got to be a stack of them somewhere. Plus they are small and light. I guarantee you there would be a LOT of buyers for this one small little item. They garner quite the price on ebay. GD

If you just disconnect the vacuum line, it's the same as blocking it. It will not open so it's basically a big block off plate itself. Plate serves to make it nicer to look at. If you have the one with the pipe going to the anti-afterburn valve on top, just get an EGR that doesn't have the pipe - such as from an EA81/82 feedback carb model, or an EA82 SPFI model. GD