later_Peter

Parked

'99 OBW 192k... just the alternator & regular service...

yeah, a pain. you need to pull the gauges out. remove speedometer from circuit board. solder front & back of the ground. There's a great write up & video on doing this. (the one about wedging a screw isn't secure/sure, don't bother)... this will work. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/112272-99-speedo-fix/?hl=%2B1999+%2Bspeedometer

the "alleged" big cause of head gasket failure is air being left in the line some place... so, I'd be rather careful about that... but didn't they change your coolant when they put in the water pump?

I own a 1999 OBW (30th anniversary edition). Bought it with 55k on it. it now has 193k... no issues with head gasket. no issues with automatic transmission. only real issue was the alternator... a rebuilt one from Subaru Dealer ($80) & about a 1/2 hour of my labor.... I really love this vehicle. solid. safe. secure. I recommend Michelins but that's my choice.

seen a few on Craig's List.

"burp it"

I just pulled the wheel off my '99 OBW. one of the bolts securing the caliper was loose. Tightened that puppy up & noise went away.

no advice? does cycling the solenoids affect the computer?

start with plugs & wires... a tight PIA job but results may be just right... (assuming you're throwing no codes) clean or replace PCV & clean the throttle body (get some Seafoam Deep Creep)

Last night I plugged those little green connectors, under the dash, together... heard lots of clicks as solenoids activated & deactivated... I've been throwing a CEL so I went back to the "recycling yard" for a egr solenoid... (plus a nice MAF). I had nearly a full tank of gas when I started (I asked to "fill it" & had only 21 miles on the trip meter when I left this morning)... on the way to the yard, I watched my gas guage drop... like 50% of normal mileage... so, my question is: Does cycling the solenoids reset the computer? Leaving it to re discover the way the engine runs. OR did I just not get a full tank of gas? (so gas mileage only *appears* to be off) ALSO: no more CEL 60+ miles after resetting... so I don't think I'm going to be changing anything... "if it ain't broke..." any wisdom from the realm?

so apparently, here's the upshot: cleaned throttle body cleaned idle control valve cleaned egr valve through a P0400 code again so replaced (junk yard) egr valve & then noticed: SPARK PLUG WIRE WAS LOOSE!!! problem resolved... (feeling pretty stupid now)

threw a P0400 code last week. took EGR valve out. cleaned it the best I could. (Seafoam DeepCreep & Carb/Choke cleaner) used an old toothbrush until I could see all metal... put it back & no codes for the past week... (it was pretty well carboned up)

I had this problem (a while back) with a Datsun PickUp Truck... spark plug wires.

I had water seepage wreck bulbs, too...

oh you probably know about the license plate thing... redunancy is the same as repetition...

well, well & well... I guess the idle may be correct!!! (I'll get the "ol' tachometer" out & verify)... A/C on & the idle goes up & the "stutter" smooths out once again, Mr. Fairtax, I thank you & I am impressed! (btw, the Washington DC license plate says "taxation without representation" & thought of you... my friend just returned from there)

hey thanks once again: idle is around 600/650 while in drive with a foot on the brake stumble is an occasional sagging in the power (idle hardly has a chance to drop) maybe once or twice during a red light. Sporadic, can't attach it to a cylinder fire on a regular basis... hope this helps you help me... (I do appreciate it)

thanks Fairtax... When the engine is cold, the idle speed is much higher & there's no "stutter"... I will try to clean the IACV tomorrow (daylight)... I didn't think about the O2 sensor... maybe I'll replace that thing & see. I did replace one of the replacement spark plug wires with an old one... idle seemed to change *slightly*... more of an OCD type of annoyance, the car runs well & idles in neutral/park... it's just this one "stumble" issue. later, Peter

you know, since it started right after I changed the plugs & wires, the wires may just be the issue... it's just such a PIA to change them out... but that'll be next, I think... thanks for the clue, Mr. Texan, sir!

ok used the Seafoam spray "Deep Creep" on throttle body & "stumble" lessened. I decided to re-treat it so I actually removed the T.B. & cleaned it front & back with the spray & a toothbrush (hope my current wife doesn't notice)... ran really poorly... drove around again & seemed to be back to slight stumble. Been reading some stuff, since the idle is around 5/6k... figuring if I could raise the idle, maybe... Well, you can't. maybe the Idle Air Control Valve... seems like an easy replacement (except in the wallet area). Would a wrecking yard IACV be worth while? I could remove it, clean it, & replace it... but am I trading a stomach ache for a headache? OR live with the inconsistent idle? 191k 2.5L '99 OBW

Trans fluid? hmmm. it's due so I'll give that a try... why not?

knock sensor replaced about 3 years ago (threw a CEL) 192k on engine Timing belt (et al) replaced around 140k I just Seafoam DeepCreeped the throttle body... may have made a bit of difference. Still only stutters with foot on the brake while in drive... stop lights & such...

Thanks! no C.E.L. I will try the throttle body cleaner. (I have run Seafoam throught the brake booster vacuum hose & put some in the gas tank... no difference)

no clues?