Sweet82

This works best in 4wd Low! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54&pictureid=1632

I need to bend my shift knob a bit... I wanted to just bend it but I noticed a plastic piece in between the chrome top section and the wider lower section. If I bend this, is the plastic part going to snap, and make my shifter sloppy or is that plastic piece just to keep the shift boot in place? Better to ask before messing with it:rolleyes:

I've been running ATV tires for about 5 years now. I haven't had a problem yet. They do limit your speed! If I'm going on a longer trip I use a set of Pugs with truck tires.

Hot off the press... Read it and weep car manufactures. http://news.prnewswire.com/DisplayReleaseContent.aspx?ACCT=104&STORY=/www/story/07-01-2009/0005053853&EDATE= Subaru Leads the way:banana:

You can pull the axle in 2 minutes or less! Once it's been out the first time... I used a nail to keep my axle in/out for a year.

So...how did it all go? I was out of town---with my off-road Subie:lol: Tell us the details???

I'd like to bring "Summer" my SubaruHummer to shake everybody up, but it looks like this is a street legal crowd. I'm not sure they'd understand...

"Fit" is a relative term. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54&pictureid=1091 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54&pictureid=1090 These off-road tires seemed to me to fit just fine?

I hauled #100 pounds of Coal up into the mountains on my roof rack. Worked fine! That thing is anchored in pretty good.

So, doing the math, A stock Subie 22.65" = 3.06 MPH A Subie with 27" = 3.651 MPH 4Runner = 1.119 MPH Apparently a 0.6 change in a ratio makes a big difference! This is the only real ratio that makes sense as it accounts for tires not just gears.

So this begs the question, What is the Creep Ratio of a stock Subie? Apparently a small change in the numbers makes a big difference in the ability to power the wheels. I notice a BIG difference with 27" tires and the stock tires. Are the stock tires 22" ? I don't have any stock tires left to measure...

This is the real issue, a Crawl Ratio does not tell the full tale! Tires are a factor that no one really figures in. I think there should be a "Creep Ratio" ( a ratio that factors crawl and tires together). This would give a more meaningful representation of the ability of a drive train setup. A stock Subaru with stock tires has a reasonable Creep Ratio. When you go over sized with the tires, your crawl ratio does not change. Your Creep Ratio just went in the toilet! Now...just how do you calculate a Creep Ratio to give a meaningful number...

I though it was a Volks Wagon! Ask him how much it weighs next time you see him. His HP to Weight ratio has got to be excellent.

I can put about 650w shining forward...my poor alt! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54&pictureid=356

It can't weigh much... Seems to me a subie would have been a better choice, same basic weight and 4wd?

I think it looks cool! The question I have is... Do you have enough clearance in the wheel wells or are you using a bump stop? Do you have the power to climb with those tires or are they eating up your gear ratio?

But Subaru Makes an SUV... I love my Forrester (mini SUV). People don't want to buy cars from failing companys, I think this news will inspire even more people to buy Subies!!!

I'm in "Summer" (my Subaru Hummer) a little less than $1,600. It broke out like this, $400 steel $600 aluminum $500 rims & tires I already had the car for 22 years before I changed bodys so I didn't have to buy a starting platform. I have smaller tires (atv) than Buggyroo, but I weigh a bit more, (4 seater) but my performance is probably similar to the videos. It's somewhere between a sand rail and a crawler. Trails are its' best application. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54

Your just using the drive train so it's possible with any Subaru. I'd use one with the dual range tranny.

Great Pics, great video. Subies don't climb that well with huge tires. You get them out of their gear range and they quit doing what your used to. It looks like sand eats power, if that was dirt you'd be up it in a flash. I need to go put "Summer" through some sand testing. It appears to me that Subaru buggies are not really sand rails and not really rock crawlers, they are somewhere in between. So why did you sell it and what's next?

I have a 2000# on the buggy with a snatch block. Never had to use it for real. Playing around it pulls me up hills just fine. They have 3000# ones at Harbor Freight for not much money. Add a block to that and you should be ok. I have steered away from the wireless remote ones because I think when you actually needed it the battery would be dead... A good quality come-a-long and some straps should be all you really need and don't weigh as much? My .02

My point was the original gas tank will fit snugly over the diff because of it's contoured shape. This will allow you to drop it quite a bit (way lower than the plans). I also dropped my front/hood by 6" to allow better visibility. There was no reason to have the front that high.

I set my buggy up so the suspension and the shocks bottom out at the same point. I though about limiting straps but they're just not needed. My goal was to keep the CV angle close to the original angle. The problem is when you don't know the finish (rear) weight, its hard to calculate the angle of the CV in advance. I used Bug Pack (dune buggy) coil over adjustable shocks so I could tune the height and ride. I've used them with and without the coils and have not noticed much difference.

You could use the original gas tank in the original position. This would still give you clearance and you would get a ton of storage in the back end. Trust me, storage is important in a tube frame buggy. I put the tank in the original position and added a back seat in that area. You should still have around 2 feet of clearance between the chassis and the ground.

I removed the, Engine, Tranny, Suspension, Struts, Wheels & tires as one unit. I cut from the strut towers down to the frame and removed the front of the car. Then I used an engine hoist to pull the whole thing out the front as a unit. I lowered the tube frame onto the engine assembly. Took about 20 minutes to install. Good Luck!