SnatchedHatch

Let me know if you need any VINS checked, I still have unlimited access. If you care to "donate" a few dollars, please feel free I'll pm you my PayPal if you'd like to generously donate to a noble cause xD

Donate at your own desire, I'll run the VINs regardless PM Vins as opposed to posting here, or I can provide answers to questions about vehicle history ITT Let me know if you need any VINS checked, I still have unlimited access. If you care to "donate" a few dollars, please feel free! I'll pm you my PayPal if you'd like to generously donate to a noble cause xD

RIGHT FRONT IMPACT WITH A PEDESTRIAN (Case #:76462604) MODERATE DAMAGE REPORTED If the car is out of action...

Accident 01/07/2008 MIAMI, FL Last recorded mileage was back in 2006 at 157,926 miles I hope that helps, and if anyone else needs their vin run, I have my subscription for a week or so more. SUBARU3, I can email you a PDF copy if you need.

I got you!

Soo the 2004 WRX cat back OEM set-up is almost bolt-on! Awesome, a new flange is simply needed to mount it past the resonator, in the forward direction. Hangers might need slight adjustment, but the shape and size is spot on. I have a fellow OBS rider from the Chicago area that commented he'd like to buy my stock muffler as his was basterdised. I agree, his magnaflow sounds raspy and crappy :/ I'll be selling him the muffler and midpipe with resonator piping, all unbolted, stock, and with some light surface rust. It's in perfect shape, I'm just replacing mine as the thread suggests. How much should I charge? Labor and fab/parts for replacement on my end is about $100, everything considered.

Thank you, I will ask around as misaligned windows are definitely a possibility. I did notice the PS front well was wet again, however I'll have to double check if it simply hadn't dried out from last night's wash. I left the mats out on the PS and the rear was definitely dry a few hours ago, I'm going to go check that out. I hope the A.C. isn't another issue to mess with, because I definitely have some baahd leaks.

That's terrible! It sounds like you all should arm yourselves in upper Wash! Mount some trip-rigged flamethrowers undernea... or I'm sorry, I meant to say Low-Jack my route could be cheaper though

*Sigh* I guess I'll break out the 6 stacks I keep for a rainy day, didn't think it would be needed so soon

Amen, I was almost run off the road by a some douchebag in his brand new Escalade, flooring it up a viaduct at the dead start of a downpour. Yeahhh those Michelin's can overcome several forces of physics, I'm sure! The dark matter makes up for the price tag.

Thanks Imdew! I'll keep that in mind.. could have come in handy today. Today I learned the hard way that the stock 6.5" clearance is likely long gone... (saggy shocks -Sam

Pulled my mats, the floor dried out in a few hours (used a shop vac to aid). Then it rained, and I noticed the PS had two largish leaks (DS as well). I think I found my culprit, and after I washed my car today, I confirmed two spots on the window pane that lack sealing. I would imagine it shouldn't be that hard to replace the door seals, just a proper replacement with appropriate adhesive. ...buuut that most likely is easier to say than do. Any remedies at all for this problem? The DS occasional leak is more than a drip on my forearm lol..

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/105367-inside-moisture/?hl=%2Bleaky+%2Bwindows&do=findComment&comment=887517 My trunk (underneath@spare tire) was dry and surprisingly clean a week ago.

I pulled the mats from my (recently purchased) Sub, and the PS was very wet, I definitely did not spill anything. The front mat (rubber) had tiny spots of what looked like precursors to mold, as I haven't lifted them in the week I've owned the car, I'm not surprised. The underside of the mat was visibly wet. My frameless windows sprung a few leaks during a carwash, and only dripped momentarily during a hour ride through pouring rain on Saturday. DS is bone dry, I'm thinking the windows were left cracked by mistake my that the previous owner, buut we had a dry spell for the entire week before I bought the car. Any terrible news I don't want to hear? Car was outside for 4+ hours on Saturday during heavy rain, maybe it jsut slowly leaked. Right now, I pulled the mats and left the windows down (garaged, going to check out a quick remedy to speed the drying.) ... *ding* I guess I could use my shopvac. If it's just the leaky windows, is there anything I can do to improve the seals? I'll go check the forum Thanks Sam

I agree with Gross, as you have new tires (winter tires right? How can you not have a set if you bought a Subie!? ) you should do fine. Don't over gas it at any peak points on the road, crests, downhill, side slopes etc... you probably know this but since we're already breaking this down: I just recalled, the only time my locked-4WD '87 Hatch slid.... was when I got the bright idea that it technically would going round a slight downhill highway bend. Yeah.. a brief (EDIT: terrifying) adrenaline rush later, I decided I'd save that for the parking lots

I was taking a look at kits, and saw that I could get a kit comprising of mostly GMB components for as little as $130 OTD, vs $184 for an identical kit except for a replacement AISIN water pump (instead of the GMB W.P.) It says AISIN is OEM Toyota and Lexus brand, will I really notice the difference? Thanks, anyone... looking to order tonight Update: Went with a GMB kit with AISIN water pump for about $175 free S&H Now I wait... so how about sticking some Forester shocks in, bolt on or fab+fit?

Hmm.. well the way I see it, if I can get Forester shox vs. OEM ones for the same price, and if I only want to work on them once: now's my chance to muck about with awesome upgrades. I was wondering what the difference would be on the KYB 'PERFORMANCE' *echo* shox. I'll be leaving the the suspension alone for sometime, unless my stock ones prove to be inadequate for our winter months. Got to get on ordering that timing kit and taking care of it asap EDIT: brake shoes too, picking up the brake cylinders tomorrow in case I need them, the braking force is practically nilch on the rear

Sounds good, I saw the orange/red "performance" versions for a little more. Only details I saw were they are adjustable (for stiffness I think). Lol would you recommend for the OBS? Close to 90% of my driving is in town/highway. I'll take a look at all of this tomorrow, LONG day driving to Michigan to pick up some tires and enjoy the local feature attractions. Thanks Gary

KYB was recommended a number of times on the forum, while checking it out, I noticed there are ABS and non-ABS versions. I did some searching and couldn't tell if the OBS has ABS standard nor how to check the VIN for it. Haven't noticed ABS-braking while driving.

I was browsing Rockauto for a full timing component kit, as I want my subie to last, but there are over a dozen choices. What do you look out for? Also looking to replace the rear shocks as they are quite soft, Rock doesn't specify Impreza as the OBS wagon (which has at the least taller springs), what are my options in general for that? I'll be throwing the car on a lift soon to see what exactly it needs. Looking to do it all DIY, so I'd like to use some of my savings on quality parts. Thanks, Sam

We're straying off topic of OP's question, but I agree, the basic 80's powertrain was a FWD/locked 4WD high (transfer case) which was AMAZING in winter. The higher end model's had the open diff with a locking diff function as you mentioned. After reading this, I realized how my 98' just can't touch my 87' when it came to ehh Ken Block-esque commutes Closer to topic, if my full-time automatic has slightly jerky shifts (unless you granny it), will that realistically risk kicking out the rear? ...especially on the highway on a bend? Just a little worried, already missing the effectiveness of the manual I had

Thank you, now I understand why one way to test for torque bind is to hit a parking lot and test maneuverability.

Hi, digging this thread up, you seemed to be very knowledgeable on this subject! I recently popped a CEL with code P0453. It signifies the EVAP pressure sensor detected high pressure in the system. I have a 98 EJ2w OBS, any idea what could cause that? I bought a new fuel cap, and then today by chance, found the fuel filler neck while inspecting my rear brakes. I took off a plastic cover to get to it, and found one rubber hose kinked it seems something is a miss as I see two new hose clamps, and the application of a few zip ties in this area. I readjusted the suspected culprit and applied an additional hose clamp to unkink it. Today I'll see how she runs, have to get my emissions done within 2 days. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks! -Sam EDIT: Passed my emissions test the following day (today), no CEL. I'll up date with pictures of the hoses near the fuel filler neck in question.

The system had an I.D. of 2.5", sooo I hopped on it. $80 for a low mileage WRX muffler with the mid-pipe sectioned resonator? Called a muffler shop I hadn't used in years, the owner turns out to be a Subie fanatic, trying to sell me his RS rims with Carbide studded winter tires This ride is quickly headed toward /r/Battlewagon The muffler is similar in size/shape and the brackets are almost identical.. can't wait to see what happens. I do prefer the OE quality build, I'll have to see about having it put in so as to fully utilize that.. having it done properly if possible. Thanks guys, but I got this one haha

Also looking at this, but given the 3 inch inlet and outlet, http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4679517832.html I've heard it will cause loss of low-end power. Others claim that is nonsense and more flow will not affect performance, I hang on the former. What do you think?