SnatchedHatch

I called my dealer, Naru and the rest of you are awesome!!! Of all three bypass hoses, both the very thin ones were available. Ordered the one I need and the other to prevent a future leak, for $11.57 each. The thermostat part is not available at any of the US warehouses, the rep even checked with Japan, a go to for customers from time to time apparently. No dice, all stocks dry. I'll check online for one. Again, thanks so much!

That's really helpful! Are these u iversal part numbers? I'm assuming dealer parts are nonexistent. And quarter inch tube would be 6.35mm so it could work. I'm ready to order, was about to take user advice of removing the hose completely. Thanks

I was thinking the same as I noticed where it fed, can anyone else verify this? Vouch for this? I don't like the sounds of reducing cooling to engine components. Capped or replaced hmm

How do I go about ordering these kind of hoses without using the make and model system? Can you rec a site?

I do realize extra hose will allow some leeway, but the first bend, on the left aide comes from a nozzle pointing downwards at a steep angle pointing right at a plate, the bend is max an inch in radius and basically touches that plate.

Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam

At this time, I'm just not able to buy those goodies: the cherry bomb mid sounds nice. Is it acting like an expansion ore resonance chamber? What I'm doing next week is clearing out the rear cat and slapping it back on as a shell. My muffler was like $40 (on the bill) from a shop, I immediately noticed the rumble/power drop when it got on. BUT I no longer felt drunk from the fumes I guess I'll wait til Spring and replace the muffler with something off eBay. haha I'll go halfway between Opus's and turbosubarubrat's route and use an empty rear cat and a cherry bomb at the end. Thanks for the thread resurrection! Til later

Man, I really wish cash wasn't so tight! I'd love to slap on a sport exhaust and hear that burble! Talked to a bud of mine, I'll be going with the easy route, disconnect the cat, BANGARANG for a bit, check for particle in the muffler and bolt it back up. If I still have issues, I'll swap the o2 sensor up front that probably fried. Thanks for all the help guys/gals, and I'll have a look at the t-belt and do an oil and coolant change when I get her on the lift. Anyone know if the EA81 has non-interference valves? Purely out of wonder, no crazy ideas there

Haha wow talk about Subaru pooch love, it doesn't look perfect but it does the job. Now you can put a smile on your dog's face, speaking of which, damn you fit the stereotype! Kudos! I have a q, what does the VDC stand for on your Outback?

What, avoiding sharp turns and especially powering through them? I imagine avoiding any stresses in turns such as hitting bumps and holes and taking it easy on tracks. Any useful tips? My front bearing is going, but this (cough 3rd) aftermarket CV shaft is actually holding up. I'll try anything, although I wish there was a set I could order that was "bulletproof". I don't like be restricted in my Subarooing shenanigans

I found this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/53847-catalytic-converter/?hl=%2Breplacing+%2Bcutting+%2Bcatalytic+%2Bconverter&do=findComment&comment=434387 while searching on info on DIY replacing the rear cat on an EA engine with a straight pipe and some flexible-joints (clamped). Someone on the thread had the same idea, but everyone brought up the fact that these cars lose low-end torque when both cats are removed. Some said one cat is a must, and even with a muffler of some sort. //How do the cats affect the power on such an old, electronical archaic ride? The serious question at hand, my rear cat failed. I need/want to do something about it due to a drop in mileage and power. From what I've read, I stand to lose or gain power based on how I proceed, what would you say would give more power, if any: -Option A: cut out the rear cat and replace with straight pipe, retaining front cat and stock-type muffler -Option B: replace rear cat with aftermarket high-flow cat, keep stock front cat and muffler ~~Option Y: replace the rear cat with a glasspack and remove stock muffler? ~~Option Z: replace rear cat with high-flow cat and remove stock muffler I'm just probing all options, I'm on a budget and don't really mind noise! In this case of power, I'd like all possibly low-end torque as I cringe at revving up my car to get through traffic. I have had thoughts of my car running lean on account of the cat failing, and the loss of power at times (almost like the clutch is slipping at higher revs, but the clutch seems great low-end). I also need to pass emissions, and supposedly one cat is enough. I believe it as these were my last test results with stock cats and muffler functioning well.

I know this post is ancient, but I found it as I am considering doing the same thing debated here: my rear cat ( I have an EA81 MT with the factory 2 cats) has failed and I've noticed a dip in my mileage. I'm on a budget, and plan on cutting out my rear cat and using some flexible joint clamps to secure some piping in place. I have an aftermarket muffler, in what I imagine is the stock style. Small diameter pipe coming out of it, and it significantly reduced noise (and I noticed a slight drop in power at the time). I have a CEL come on once the car warms up and not the most consistent power (this maybe due to an improper carb tune, something I'm also working up to). At the peak of the rear cat failure, the front cat overheated and got the edge of the CV inner joint boot melting, and either the rubber dripped below or the the O2 sensor was smoking as well. Sooo.. my plan was to cut out the rear cat, and see if my mileage (and I guess power) comes back to "normal". This thread talks a lot about losing some significant torque from losing one or both cats? How do you think my car would run with the stock front cat and stockish muffler? Would I have more torque/power if I replaced the rear car with a "magna-flow" cat, or less? (I would consider investing in the MFcat if so).

Yes, but it is the front axles that are weak, no? I never heard of the rears causing so much trouble, at least before they start causing loads of trouble xD That said, it's better not to test your luck, I'm not from Washington where the scavengable Soobies are bountiful. It almost seems like the EA Subarus come there to spend their last days on the pastures til the ocean beckons for their precious metals and they at last collapse in large groups. Then we come in, like some sort of hoarding hermit crabs bent on creating Frankensteins from the remains.

By the way, the cat doesn;t overheat as horribly as before. After a week from the smokey incident, it only gets bad after long drives, albeit the power and mileage issues. This leads me to believe the cat substrate crumbled significantly, and I've heard of the chance of it getting caught up in the muffler. What say you suprjohn? Is there any way to tell? I realize one way is to disconnect the muffler and see how she runs, but I wouldn't be able to peer inside as at most I'll be cutting up at the rear cat. Don't want to make more cuts than needed.

I'll double check the timing belts but I believe they have been replaced, there was a lot of maintenance done by the previous owner. I have only had the car for half a year now, and only a few months ago measured the mileage, it was decent. Now these problems have arouse, or gotten worse, in the last month or so. I haven't check the exact mpg, but I didn't have to tank up about once a week and I certainly got more miles per tank. I'll check with my mechanic buddy and see if he would even consider doing the vac test, based on if he can tell if the muffler is clogged with cat substrate. What equipment is needed for a vac test? He (mech.bud) already said the cat is failing, and ~today I took the car into a shop I frequent and they said the cat is dead, ~and that the piping behind the cat is double walled, prone to rattling. ~They wouldn't do what I wanted as I suspected, but said I can most definitely replace the cat with some pipe and secure it in place (flex-joint clamps) without welding. That is my plan at the moment, but I will get a confirming opinion on the state of the cat. This will work out even cheaper than I imagined. Even the shop owner, who I know from the past, said if I'm on a budget that I can just run the car as is. But if mileage is down and I'm prepared for DIY, to go for it.

LOL! I imagine it would. Hot damn, what is the power ratio on these things? The possibilities for summer...

Wow, I'm sorry I forgot to mention another "symptom" of off-tune besides weak/low power. Everyday, on my first start, I have to pump the gas two or three times for an effective start. Once she is warmed up, it starts normally. But if not, even a second start needs some gas. I have a muffler, so no cats isn't too big of a deal for me. Cops are cool around me, had a 2.5L Sentra with a 3.5" catback exhaust and was never bothered with. My plan is to either replace the O2 sensor, or if the cats are failed I will straight up cut them out for now. I passed emissions in Dec. 13' with FLYING colors, better than my '02 car. I have had a rattly guard *before on a different car*, but as I was working on the CV shaft with my car on a lift, my mechanic buddy knocked about the rear cat and in his opinion it was failing/crumbling. I can imagine he would notice if it was the guard instead. That said, let's say the rear cat is toast, then the front could just be suffocating. It almost sounds like gas is trying to escape from that area on hard acceleration. I will check the plugs, the only thing I sprayed through the carb was a good amount of starter fluid (note, it didn't need it. I have a faulty gas level gauge :/ That was embarassing lol). This was in November/early December. I made sure I bought the starter fluid with lubricant. I'll check the exhaust smell. Besides the rough cold start, it idles well but I have instances of putting down the gas (pedal) and I will get *rev+accelerating* more gas pedal *rev and stagnant acceleration, just more revs and more noise*. My clutch is good, and this is what I mean by weak power. At other times, oh man it powers through just fine and I even manage to overtake someone. The boxer growl reminds me of our 3.6L Outback at full throttle . I have to note, that I don't believe in coincidences and I took my car to the car wash recently. As I left I made a flawless getaway. The water cooled Something down

I've heard of pulling the front CV's in an emergency and running on 4WD. How would you do that, don't you need a spindle through the hub to prevent bearing failure? EDIT: I'm not planning on it like you guessed.

YESS

//"... Period...... Length between where the boots attach is irrelavent. Think about it....each chassis is the same width, using the same knuckles, and same trans mounting points (AT and MT diffs are the same width) For a given chassis.......all axles are the same INSTALLED length. (off the car you can stretch and compress them...so that comparison is flawed) ... The only thing that varies is axle thickness, the cup/joint size, and the spline count (25 on turbos) "// I'm sorry but "all axles are the same INSTALLED length." is even more confusing and misleading. That's as if you said, if the part will fit the car, then all of the shafts in that category are the same length ?? You said yourself that they all stretch and compress to different lengths, from what I've seen from local and online merchants, the CV shafts are specified by compressed length only. ..if each part has it's own compressed and stretched limits, then each has a different minimum and maximum length. I'm pretty sure that affects fitment and proper function on the vehicle. To date I had 27-3/4", 27-1/4", 25-3/4", and a 25-1/4" compressed length shafts. ~The first two were simply not going to bolt on, they were too long, or the head was too fat at the spindle, not allowing it to sit flush. ~The last one was just too short, fully stretched and not bolting on. EA71? This one was also very fat in thickness (not relevant I guess). ~The 25-3/4" compressed length shaft is just long enough to bolt on, but compared to the original shaft I had, it is stretched at least half an inch more. The original shaft bolted on wheel side, then stretched a bit and was pinned to the engine side hub. This aftermarket part stretched approx. the same amount, then almost 3/4" more before the pin would be able to fasten. The cv shaft started to chatter within a week... (OK so different heads can affect fitment, does each Subie have it's own head size?)

Damnit. It was definitely spewing smoke from the front of the front cat, I would guess that to be dripped rubber though. I'll check it out, thank you!

I'm splitting my last post about the CEL's and O2 sensors to focus on this: -are there tell-tale signs of an improperly tuned carburetor? -wouldn't it technically reak havoc on the catalytic converters over time? ~I'm going to scour the forum for information on the topic, however at the moment my home internet is down. ~I'm limited to my phone, unless I hit some FREE wifi (yeah Dunkin.. haha), but reading the posts and pms is doable. What do y'all think? My front cat is overheating, possibly due to a failed O2 sensor. The rear cat either has a rattling guard, or from what I could tell a crumbling infrastructure. Engine seems weak on power. Any ideas, thought, info, comments would be greaat! -Sam

Thanks, unfortunately I'm waiting for my Wireless router to come in. I've been using public/cafe wifis for the last week or so, and I jsut can't spend that much time browsing while here. I will take a look once my home connection is back up, but to comment on the info: I believe my rear cat is failing too, that or the guard is rattling as many have said on here that is the more probable case. Thing is, I had my car up on a lift and my mechanic buddy gave it some knocks and said it sounds like the mesh is caking and crumbling if that makes sense. Now the front is overheating. I wasn't aware I could tell if it is still good by temperature alone. Is there a certain range of temp that defines hot cat and broken? I can still browse the forum on my phone with ease, I'd appreciate any input on that! I'm also worried that my carb might be out of tune causing a lean or rich mixture, as this can cause problems in the cats (I know first hand from my last car that any unburned gasoline will destroy the cat over time). ..and I would not be surprised if I'm my sub is not reaching peak efficiency. Anyone have experience with carb tuning?

I would go so far as to agree on the difference in thickness, however from what I've experienced with EA81 CV shafts, the length can differ too. In fact, as the automatics sticks out more (EA81 cars) the shafts are thicker and shorter. Let's see if someone can verify this for EA82 cars.