SnatchedHatch
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Everything posted by SnatchedHatch
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My first Impreza, after more than 40 subarus
SnatchedHatch replied to MilesFox's topic in Members Rides
THEY CAN DO THAT?? ..or are you unbolting the drive shaft? Just wondering! Thanks -
Hmm, I'll pass that message over to the buyer of my hatch (mechanic's special, not fooling anyone with a car that can't drive)
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Didn't expect the cv shafts to be snapped, they weren't. Just the clutch plate given all the helpful descriptions. Thanks
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What did I do to my hatch? Well I had my muffler shop touch up their work and remove a bottom heat guard on a cat to put an end to an incessant rattle. Oh.. and I sold her! More below, but I'll see you all again soon enough. If you ever need one of these on a trailer, 3 guys can do it Got a parts bike out of it too, and sold that the next day! All in all a great week, albeit sorry to see my Subie go
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Is it common for an extremely worn clutch to make no contact whatsoever?
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Ok, I'll check what I am able to.
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I figured it was completely used up, but wouldn't there be contact still? Would the flywheel not be gouged as it cannot reach that far?
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The idea of a stripped hub of some sort was floated, I'll definitely take a look at the shafts. Thanks
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So my clutch gave out on Monday, it was started to slip a lot and finally it gave nothing. My car was pushed into a local lot. The thing is, if I start it up and engage the clutch, it's as if it's NOT there. There is no sound or feeling, yet the pedal has the same tension as normal. What could be the problem? If the clutch plate had been worn down completely, (not out of the question as I mistook clutch slippage as a weak old engine for quite sometime now) would it still be there to have some contact. I don't think the clutch plate is stuck back, no abnormal jerks or feeling. And it could not have burst, it just progressed into massive slippage, then nothing. Please help! Thank you in advance for any advice or comments, -Sam
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I called my dealer, Naru and the rest of you are awesome!!! Of all three bypass hoses, both the very thin ones were available. Ordered the one I need and the other to prevent a future leak, for $11.57 each. The thermostat part is not available at any of the US warehouses, the rep even checked with Japan, a go to for customers from time to time apparently. No dice, all stocks dry. I'll check online for one. Again, thanks so much!
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That's really helpful! Are these u iversal part numbers? I'm assuming dealer parts are nonexistent. And quarter inch tube would be 6.35mm so it could work. I'm ready to order, was about to take user advice of removing the hose completely. Thanks
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I was thinking the same as I noticed where it fed, can anyone else verify this? Vouch for this? I don't like the sounds of reducing cooling to engine components. Capped or replaced hmm
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How do I go about ordering these kind of hoses without using the make and model system? Can you rec a site?
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I do realize extra hose will allow some leeway, but the first bend, on the left aide comes from a nozzle pointing downwards at a steep angle pointing right at a plate, the bend is max an inch in radius and basically touches that plate.
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Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
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Catalytic converter
SnatchedHatch replied to Newsoobowner's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
At this time, I'm just not able to buy those goodies: the cherry bomb mid sounds nice. Is it acting like an expansion ore resonance chamber? What I'm doing next week is clearing out the rear cat and slapping it back on as a shell. My muffler was like $40 (on the bill) from a shop, I immediately noticed the rumble/power drop when it got on. BUT I no longer felt drunk from the fumes I guess I'll wait til Spring and replace the muffler with something off eBay. haha I'll go halfway between Opus's and turbosubarubrat's route and use an empty rear cat and a cherry bomb at the end. Thanks for the thread resurrection! Til later -
Man, I really wish cash wasn't so tight! I'd love to slap on a sport exhaust and hear that burble! Talked to a bud of mine, I'll be going with the easy route, disconnect the cat, BANGARANG for a bit, check for particle in the muffler and bolt it back up. If I still have issues, I'll swap the o2 sensor up front that probably fried. Thanks for all the help guys/gals, and I'll have a look at the t-belt and do an oil and coolant change when I get her on the lift. Anyone know if the EA81 has non-interference valves? Purely out of wonder, no crazy ideas there
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Haha wow talk about Subaru pooch love, it doesn't look perfect but it does the job. Now you can put a smile on your dog's face, speaking of which, damn you fit the stereotype! Kudos! I have a q, what does the VDC stand for on your Outback?
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What, avoiding sharp turns and especially powering through them? I imagine avoiding any stresses in turns such as hitting bumps and holes and taking it easy on tracks. Any useful tips? My front bearing is going, but this (cough 3rd) aftermarket CV shaft is actually holding up. I'll try anything, although I wish there was a set I could order that was "bulletproof". I don't like be restricted in my Subarooing shenanigans
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I found this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/53847-catalytic-converter/?hl=%2Breplacing+%2Bcutting+%2Bcatalytic+%2Bconverter&do=findComment&comment=434387 while searching on info on DIY replacing the rear cat on an EA engine with a straight pipe and some flexible-joints (clamped). Someone on the thread had the same idea, but everyone brought up the fact that these cars lose low-end torque when both cats are removed. Some said one cat is a must, and even with a muffler of some sort. //How do the cats affect the power on such an old, electronical archaic ride? The serious question at hand, my rear cat failed. I need/want to do something about it due to a drop in mileage and power. From what I've read, I stand to lose or gain power based on how I proceed, what would you say would give more power, if any: -Option A: cut out the rear cat and replace with straight pipe, retaining front cat and stock-type muffler -Option B: replace rear cat with aftermarket high-flow cat, keep stock front cat and muffler ~~Option Y: replace the rear cat with a glasspack and remove stock muffler? ~~Option Z: replace rear cat with high-flow cat and remove stock muffler I'm just probing all options, I'm on a budget and don't really mind noise! In this case of power, I'd like all possibly low-end torque as I cringe at revving up my car to get through traffic. I have had thoughts of my car running lean on account of the cat failing, and the loss of power at times (almost like the clutch is slipping at higher revs, but the clutch seems great low-end). I also need to pass emissions, and supposedly one cat is enough. I believe it as these were my last test results with stock cats and muffler functioning well.
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Catalytic converter
SnatchedHatch replied to Newsoobowner's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I know this post is ancient, but I found it as I am considering doing the same thing debated here: my rear cat ( I have an EA81 MT with the factory 2 cats) has failed and I've noticed a dip in my mileage. I'm on a budget, and plan on cutting out my rear cat and using some flexible joint clamps to secure some piping in place. I have an aftermarket muffler, in what I imagine is the stock style. Small diameter pipe coming out of it, and it significantly reduced noise (and I noticed a slight drop in power at the time). I have a CEL come on once the car warms up and not the most consistent power (this maybe due to an improper carb tune, something I'm also working up to). At the peak of the rear cat failure, the front cat overheated and got the edge of the CV inner joint boot melting, and either the rubber dripped below or the the O2 sensor was smoking as well. Sooo.. my plan was to cut out the rear cat, and see if my mileage (and I guess power) comes back to "normal". This thread talks a lot about losing some significant torque from losing one or both cats? How do you think my car would run with the stock front cat and stockish muffler? Would I have more torque/power if I replaced the rear car with a "magna-flow" cat, or less? (I would consider investing in the MFcat if so). -
Yes, but it is the front axles that are weak, no? I never heard of the rears causing so much trouble, at least before they start causing loads of trouble xD That said, it's better not to test your luck, I'm not from Washington where the scavengable Soobies are bountiful. It almost seems like the EA Subarus come there to spend their last days on the pastures til the ocean beckons for their precious metals and they at last collapse in large groups. Then we come in, like some sort of hoarding hermit crabs bent on creating Frankensteins from the remains.
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By the way, the cat doesn;t overheat as horribly as before. After a week from the smokey incident, it only gets bad after long drives, albeit the power and mileage issues. This leads me to believe the cat substrate crumbled significantly, and I've heard of the chance of it getting caught up in the muffler. What say you suprjohn? Is there any way to tell? I realize one way is to disconnect the muffler and see how she runs, but I wouldn't be able to peer inside as at most I'll be cutting up at the rear cat. Don't want to make more cuts than needed.
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I'll double check the timing belts but I believe they have been replaced, there was a lot of maintenance done by the previous owner. I have only had the car for half a year now, and only a few months ago measured the mileage, it was decent. Now these problems have arouse, or gotten worse, in the last month or so. I haven't check the exact mpg, but I didn't have to tank up about once a week and I certainly got more miles per tank. I'll check with my mechanic buddy and see if he would even consider doing the vac test, based on if he can tell if the muffler is clogged with cat substrate. What equipment is needed for a vac test? He (mech.bud) already said the cat is failing, and ~today I took the car into a shop I frequent and they said the cat is dead, ~and that the piping behind the cat is double walled, prone to rattling. ~They wouldn't do what I wanted as I suspected, but said I can most definitely replace the cat with some pipe and secure it in place (flex-joint clamps) without welding. That is my plan at the moment, but I will get a confirming opinion on the state of the cat. This will work out even cheaper than I imagined. Even the shop owner, who I know from the past, said if I'm on a budget that I can just run the car as is. But if mileage is down and I'm prepared for DIY, to go for it.
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