SnatchedHatch

HEY NOW! Ok, I admit I can definitely relate to how much better a 5 speed would be. Sometimes, it's just LAGGGG in a certain gear. :/ Also, ditto for the Nasturally aspirated engine, as I see it: I would not be driving my old Subie on my budget for very long if it had a turbo ;-)

Thanks! I'll go count those splines!

I bought my car with this problem: The CEL appears after 15-20minutes of driving/warming up. Sooner if rough/hard driving, or 4WD is engaged (more stress on the engine). Also if left to warm up for more than 5 minutes it appears. Yesterday: ~Popped hood, found a whisp of smoke, the front catalytic converter heated up enough to start to melt the outer edge of the inner CV boot on the passenger side. //From what I've read, an overheated cat can be cause by a failure in the O2 sensor, surprise surprise it looked as if it was the source of the smoke. I just want to get some advice on if I should start by replacing the O2 sensor. I'm thinking it caused the CEL all this time? BUT does an old car like this depend on the CEL for regulation of gas flow, or is that silly to think for a carb? I'm not familiar sorry! Could it be a combo of the O2 and a not properly tuned Carb? I would admit it has been on the weak side, but I just have blamed old tech. Please, any advice would be appreciated. My plan is to replace the cat, and at the same time or after confirm if the cat is still usable. If it's a dud, then time to straight pipe this girl

Yes, I've also heard it could be worn engine mounts. Not sure if it was in this thread ^^^ but that actually could be a possibility for me. I'm guessing a bent frame could also mess with the balance of the two shafts, I have one repainted front fender and the bumper slightly sags on that side.. Hmm

Hey Odie! ~~I replied to your other thread-post about the CV shaft, thanks for the offer! I just wanted to chime in here with my two cents. The first aftermarket AutoZone special order CV shaft I put on my car had a light clicking sound almost immediately. Within a week or two, it was a full on chatter. At 5 weeks it made a disturbing KNOCKING sound on the highway. Got rid of that garbage, got my refund as per the AZ warranty, and ordered a rebuild/aftermarket reproduction (can't remember) shaft off RockAuto. So far it's good, also light clicking/chatter but it's not too serious. -Try RockAuto. They also have lifetime warranties on their parts (most if not all the CV shafts), and I found them to be cheaper. They do sell OEM rebuilds. -Or listen to what these guys are saying, they haven't let me down! The CV longevity link I75eya posted looks promising, and I'll have to take a look at it. -Sam

I have a spare OEM Subaru EA82 front CV axle/shaft and wanted to know what it will fit? A few members are in need of such a shaft and have asked me about it. THANKS in advance! -Sam

I'm in the same boat, I'm not ready for any engine/wire harness swap. I have a solid trans, and a low mileage EA81 with zero issues. Would love to find out more about this, makes sense as I was aware they used the EA81 in small aircraft. I'll probably just weberize it though..

I'll consider it! My CV axle hasn't bothered me at the moment, and if you just plan on putting it aside I would take you up on your offer. I have had nothing but headaches with these Autozone Special Order axles where I'm at, too long or too short compressed length. Only one worked from them but it started knocking pretty good after a month or so. I bought the same part, no core charge so cheaper, from Rock Auto. Compressed length 25-3/4" as I recall. If you need a decision soon, It looks like I might need to replace my passenger side front CV shaft. It has been surprisingly chattering longer than the new part has been installed. The Cat directly below it overheated for some reason and melted the rubber of the inner boot on the little strip outside of the zip-tie clamp. Only reason I noticed was the smell! ...and the smoke xO If this has been an ongoing issue like I thought, the heating could have messed with the grease and the chattering is a omen of future replacement. What length part do you have? EA81 just to confirm right? When do you wish to sell it? If it's the appropriate shaft, I will jump on this as soon as I have the cash.

Does the EA82 CV axle vary for automatic and manual transmissions? Trying to find out if my axle is from a manual car/if it will fit one.

Tell that to my cringingly stretched CV shaft. You all have said that all EA81 compatible shafts will work when I made a thread awhile back on this topic. Fact is my auto zone had 4 different lengths of reman or aftermarket for my car. Most were so long they wouldn't bolt up. And one was too short but I believe that was for an automatic. The one I settled on now is stretched more than the original one my car came with. Don't know what else to say, other than I'll post an update when I find a suitable one.

It's the CV shaft on the top of the last picture (without the tape). -23 Spline, Subaru OEM from a pick and pull. If anyone is interested, I'll accept paypal for shipping! Maybe throw a fiver my way on top I'll take measurements and update within a day or so.

I personally prefer the organic matter model, apintonut. You know, I noticed that out of the 3 slotted holes on my hatch, one had a metal plug with a slightly concave black rubber cap. It slightly moves in when you press it, but that's probably just the rubber. -I wonder what it was for myself, I'm going to investigate. Anyone know where this leads? Through the side of the car or through the firewall? Any panels to remove to see it, or veiwable in the engine bay? I only ask so I have heads up when I go take a look. Thanks!

I had this problem too! I cringe at the thought that I lost my OEM driver's cv as a core to my local shop. By the time I realized my mistake, they couldn't do anything about it. Which is kind of absurd, like they really can't contact their aftermarket part supplier/remanufacturer and hunt it down? They told me they couldn't. The issue with my hatch is it requires a shorter shaft. ALL the shafts at Autozone were too long, or short. Only one fit, but it's about 3/4 of an inch too short and is stretched. First one lasted maybe 5 weeks. It went from a chatter, to (while on the highway) and knocking/thumping as OP described. THAT scared me, but it ran for a while longer. Got my money and compensation back from Autozone, and order one from Rockauto. It was the same length CV shaft ~3/4inch too short. It was cheaper though, so I slapped it in and it hasn't caused me an issue so far. I'm at least 3 weeks in and the last one would have chattered by now. I'm going to try a different CV from RockAuto if this halfshaft breaks down again. >>>Like the other members said, you can ride on the Lifetime Warranties or find an original and "refurbish" it yourself. I have also heard from the forum that EMPI is the better brand. RockAuto.com sells them. One last thing, I have a spare front OEM Subaru CV Shaft, it's not for my hatch but I obviously held onto it. It has two metal rings on the shaft, which indicates which powertrain it is for. I believe EA82?

I know what you can use it for, intimidation Next time you're on a run with someone new to your ride, tell them to buckle up and HANG ON! *Flip* ... *click* *Flip* *click**flip**click* Uhh, the supercharger might need adjustment..

Whether or not it's plausible, I hope that cat is due fro replacement. I'll chop it out and take off the muffler, for now heeheee Emissions testing is 11 months away so I give no f$#ks For the record, the muffler made a noticeable loss of power, and you guys seem to be split on the loss of one cat. I'll post updates as they come

Thanks everyone for the awesome input! I've dealt with a pesky heat shield on my Nissan before, drove me to the point of it. Down the line I regretted it, I guess I nicked the pipe in a spot and that snowballed But sweet relief it was. I'll check it out as soon as I can, which because of nuisance I'll speed up, cold and wet or not. Last time I had it up on the lift, a buddy of mine told me I probably gave it a solid knock while taking it off the trail and broke some particle loose. I cannot deny this claim lol, Ferris Bueller's day off Ferrari scene comes to mind

Hey, I had this SAME problem in my 87' hatch when I bought it a few months ago. Windows open or closed, I couldn't drive it more than 20 minutes without feeling messed up . Things I have done since then that have helped: 1.) Bought a muffler right off the bat, then I wasn't sick everytime I drove it but I still smelled "gas" 2.) Replaced the filter to the carb, helped a bit. 3.) My rear wing windows had damaged latches so they wouldn't seal. This was due to my hatch also being rear ended and the body work was bent out of shape harhar. So philoftheblanks, I know what you mean. I tried using black roof caulking, but that was a bad baad idea. Silicone would have worked, but I was fed up and just applied gorilla tape. Trimmed with razor . Boom, no exhaust coming through the back windows. 4.) Replaced the gas tank cap, WOW bad seal. Did all this in the listed order and today I don't smell anything. ...except when I tank up lol (for the ~half hour or so after) Hoped this helped

Digging this thread up! So down the line I ordered a CV shaft from RockAuto for an 84' GL. Came in, was the same as the only compatible part from autozone, slightly too short. Since the last one was KNOCKING , and since the part was $30 cheaper (full refund from autozone ) I installed it. In the time since then, I had the mind blowing realization that my car was not who she said she was! Remember, I've been new to this. When I bought the car, my insurance form said something about Standard. LOL I thought that was the policy. Add to the fact that I jsut didn't see any Standards on the forum at the time, I mistook mine as a GL. I'll be ordering another CV from Rock in a few weeks. I can already here one of the two up front lightly chattering about my wallet when I make a turn. Since I bought the car, the other side had a new/rebuilt/aftermarket one in and it went from shiny to rustic If this goes goes unnoticed, I'll post a new thread. In fact, I'll do that anyway

Show off your Subaru Shift knobs! The more obscure, the better I'm wondering what Subaru had available. ..and also, I could not find any on eBay that were too my liking haha I'll start! Black rubber 4-speed/R knob: I'm sorry! At the moment it's the best pic I have of it. Just squint!

Niice, so this confirms what the circle in place of that switch is in my car. It's cool that Subaru built-in places for aftermarket switches. I have the same square block plastic piece with what looks like a circle ready to be punched out (3 or four tabs).

YIKES I didn't realize, sorry man. Atleast with our Soobs we can just drag it back into to the garage and make em rise again lol A friend of mine a few years ago did the same, fell asleep on a cold morning on the way to Uni. Rear ended somebody in his TT It must have cost half the cars value to repair. ...going off topic a bit, that combined with the usual Audi headaches (electrical repairs and something else), he came so close to "totaling" his car in repairs. It added up to like $13k I'll stick with my Beataru haha!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/115415396@N06/12125449965/ EDIT: This was in FWD on 13" stock size tires. I can't imagine how long 4WD would take

15-16 seconds, I'd say 14 in better weather. Y'all and your fancy tachometers. I'm left to guess, but based on your advice I over revved. I can not wait for my weber. Even with all stock parts, I pulled about 15-16 sec. That's an EA81, carb, two cats and muffler, 99k. It is below freezing though. I didn't even try for a proper launch, I know I could do 14 seconds. Just did one run, I'll post the video as soon as I can.

You've got me curious. According to the linked "0-60 acceleration timed", it should do it in about 13-14seconds. Yeahh we'll see about that.

Ahh nice shots, so that's why your front passenger fender is buckled in!