SnatchedHatch

I was going for a better exhaust note! I did notice the can is taller, I don't know if it will fit, although given I have the Outback sport, it will until the body squats. Modifying the flange is not a problem, I have to get the OEM muffler cut off as is.

Found a stock wrx exhaust for extremely cheap with low miles, Would I have back pressure issues using the muffler portion? How would it affect sound? Picture: http://postimg.org/image/vbt3bcgzn/

I'm still trying to understand the effect of torque bind as well, would like to hear about this

If the difference was pennies in cost, it can't hurt right? It would be irresponsibly uneconomical to drive back and return them, not to mention the added pollution to the environment

Will do

The Hatch received a new clutch, machined flywheel, new front DS CV shaft and hub (THANKYOUSOMUUUCH Gloyale Rear drive train is a w.i.p. so currently running it without the rear shafts. Everything else back in after the drive shaft was straightened + refurbished with new u-joints, diff worked over. The engine was not removed to replace the clutch, the trans was pulled. It was rocked back and forth a bit, so the following symptoms.. bad engine mounts? It starts a bit more rough, and immediately with vibrations felt through the car, never before present. They reappear when engaging the clutch and moving the car forward from a stop and at very low speeds. Engine not is now a subtly lower tone, and while it's not drastically slower, I can tell it runs with a bit less power. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Bonus engine bay pic, glad to see my rear end paint job from New Year's holding up extremely well, but sorry no pics of that yet. http://postimg.org/image/9f8csxn17/

#1 was rectified by moving speaker balance slightly to the rear, and more significantly by turning off the ghetto-bass boost feature on the aftrmrkt radio. Now I can totally live with it Tackling #2 tomorrow, let's hope the she.ll come off as easy as they come.

UPDATE on car performance: engine note was a little rough from the start of today, and the shifts had gone from *nothing to report* to slightly jerky overnight. Noon, CEL turned on. Code P0302 popped up, Cyl#2 misfire. Plan on swapping plugs tomorrow, the plug wires look almost new (probably original). Funny thing is.. was driving home an hour ago, and suddenly I noticed the slightly jerky shifting went away.. CEL went away. Plugs and oil tomorrow

I was thinking of RockAuto, due to necessity I would have had to stick with a local source and as you pointed out overpaying significantly. Plugs: I heard otherwise from somebody today, and I was hoping to find likewise advice from all the great open-minded members . When it comes to straying from O.E. spec, it's not a good idea such as if your car's stock choice is something as advanced as Iridium. ..buuut the OE plugs are basic copper tops. Was told waste-spark can use up copper tops quite rapidly, depending on the system, and upgrading to Platinum tips can resist such force. My Subie seems to have 2 ignition coils for 4 plugs, so I think the upgrade would have merit here, anyone have experience with the EJ22's plug use? Well.. I was also worried that upgrading from something as basic as copper can have adverse negative effects, as switching from OE iridium can cause misfiring. I bought the NGK G power Plat, since they were about 15 cents more per plugs than the NGK copper tips.

So.. Autozone quoted me at $270 and ~$330 for a full kit: pulley's, pump, tensioner, belt Plugs are cheap, I was going to go with NGK's OE spec plugs, those are just copper tips. Any benefit or sense in upgrading the plugs?

I did not mean to imply I was skimping on the timing belt, and come on give a Subie guy more credit.. we all know the dangers of a bad timing belt. I should have said the previous owner was not informed and as such could not confirm for me, poor choice of wording on my part. Thank you for the link, I did plan on doing a tune-up regardless. The pulley's and pump hopefully in this week. Was recommended Loctite 518, any experience with it Ad~Sub?

Off to Walmart to grab some Sony's, coolant, got oil, aaaand got a winter set in the works off of Craigslist. I'm on the fence on this whole Polar artic winter from hell, irony is harsh mistress. Shox can wait, I'll take a stab at the windows, have all of the above in stock

Belacane assimilated EDIT: I got that SOB/OBS, best decision I've made this year

It makes it.. Stronger..much like its brothers. One.. of.. us.. ONE...

So.. I'm back in with you guys, funny how that worked out. Wasn't looking for a Subaru, but I couldn't pass this one up If RallyAlex is reading this, sorry bud! As much as I hate to, had to pass on the White Lightning wagon :/ I almost regret that decision, but hey I was about to buy a Toyota SR5 truck, didn't expect to jump back two decades, I have to be weened back on the Subitol I have to point out, this is my 100th post, coming with my second Subie, THAT'S how it's done Thank you all for all the help thus far, Best garddarn forum on the globe! I'll be working through a few minor issues, and scowering the forum for information as usual. I'll go ahead and drop the topics, in case anyone would like to chime in 1/7 Blown driver's door speaker 2/7 one rear window is slow going back up (auto windows), wind noise on the highway (frameless doors yay, gotta love'em gotta hate'em) I've heard of lubing up the window rollers. Would cleaning and conditioning the seals for the doors and windows help? 3/7 Rear diff had oil splotch, how do I go about checking the oil level? 4/7 Plan on replacing the rear spring/strut assemblies. ...Monroe aftermarket, or pick and pull? The former is decently cheap. 5/7 Horn is going out, luckily I still have my low-tone I was going to use to upgrade mee Mazda3. 6/7 One rust spot near the rear wheel well, NEED to take care of that asap. 7/7 Full tune-up, timing belt might be original. Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles.. like *du-duuuuh vroom* like if it lacked the energy to turn over. I imagine a fresh set of plugs, and the timing belt and oil change should take care of this. Coolant flush ASAP, brake bleed seems in order as well. ~A little TLC and some SeaFoam never hurts, That seems to be all folks!

Hi! Welcome to the last Subaru place you'll ever have to look! I think I will take you up on your offer to ask, what's the best way to do with a small spot of deep rust? Just got a 98' Impreza, it has a tangerine sized spot of rust on the back othe rear wheel well. I imagine if I grind it, and prime and coat it, it will leave a gaping hole :S I'll post a picture once I have a chance, Thanks in advance Denny

--SOLD--

I did read, while hunting for a diff leak thread, that it could be oil splashing out. They rec'd checking the Diff oil level as well, not at all familiar with doing this! haha is there an hourglass port, or a plug, or a.. ehmm no dip stick I take it?

Very observant as to noticing the lack of DS pictures, I noticed you haven't visited his ad He's got about 20 pictures posted, the DS did have one tangerine sized spot of rust on the rear edge of the RR wheel well. If I jump on this, I'm considering grinding it away and sealing it properly? Better a hole than a fender I think

Yes this does have the EJ22, I have read quite a bit on the "Subaru Headgasket" subject, and agree that the 2.2 was better off, especially 1998.5 and later. However, I read (although I could see my two sources being biased) that the newer engines didn't so much mix oil and coolant, as develop external leaks of oil/coolant. I was thinking about the timing belt this morning, but regardless, how big of priority are the pulleys and pump? Other than that, thanks for the reassurance everyone. It doesn't run like it has high miles, I just get panicky with a low budget and the idea of having to pop open the engine.

I think I'm going to go through with $2,200, if I don't nab a different car before, I can still make use of my post by asking, when do you think I need to worry about the issues described: possible head and diff leak ever so slight front bearing sideways movement slight leak on shocks

This is it, kbb "good" value is $2400. http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4679584947.html The DS head seemed a bit dirtier than the PS, couldn't see a leak but I assume it was from a coolant leak. Underneath is pretty clean. saw a bit of liquid in small spots. Oil looked good, not new, and not black. The rear diff had a splotch of oil covering part/half of it (looking at it from the rear). (Leak? Overflow from vent?) CV shafts looked fine in the back, the front looked fine but I may have seen a sheen on the boots. Could have just been the light, the rubber looked as good as in the rear. Brakes could use a flush, and maybe new rear pads as the rear rotors were not completely clear. Car brakes softer than I'd prefer. Rear shocks are a tad soft, front are good. One of the rear extended more than the other, and both showed a small leak. Seller had a full size jack in the trunk, put it to good use All bearings good, one of the front had a few millimeters of travel, minute amount but noticed. Shifts well for an auto of that age Subie, pretty much without hiccup. Rides well, given its a wagon, and give the softer rear shocks, it is slightly boaty on sharp maneuvers. I floated $2,200, he was receptive. All-season tires all around at 70-75% thread. I'm not entirely sure what I'm getting into, 154k is high mileage territory. Is this a good price, should I go $2100? I imagine if I keep the battery clean at all times, and flush the coolant on an accelerated schedule, along with 3-4k oil changes, I can prevent the HG from getting worse. Not to mention, I have some coolant-additive Head-gasket sealant at home, I hear it works well for preventative measures. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks! CL description: "for sale my automatic 4cylinder OBS 1998 subaru impreza outback sport color is black everything works interior everything, cold a/c heater works, power window all four works, rear wiper works, AWD works really good in the snow, brakes changed about a year ago, car starts and run everyday no any issues, snow/allseason good tires bought all four about a year ago, aftermarket stereo installed, no leaks and it doesn't burn oil, got my oil changed in time with maintenance and stuff, smoked front and rear turn signals smoke tail lights, got 6k HID kit on the car, got/clean title on hand. call or text for more information"

I agree Gloyale, that "new coat" .... not to mention the great advertising scheme... $4,000 is steep, hence I came here to see if any amount of sweat can make an EA turbo dependable. No mention of a replaced headgasket or a rebuild PO (<<lol) If I was in the position for a serious side project, I'd haggle with this guy. but as a daily, ehem MilesFox, who are you kidding?! It better be built like a tank, and this ones clearly not haha I'm sure he'll sell it to someone uttering the usual WOW turbo boxer that's so cheap broo, it's like a vintage STI mann On the flip, if anyone in the Indiana/Illinois/Michigan area has an N/A EA or EJ subie with a stick they would part with, I'm willing to meet. I'll hit the marketplace

Would've been surprised if he wasn't a member, ty I'll try and dig it up.

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/4672311575.html It's in my range and price range, is the price fair and more importantly is it worth it: I've heard the EA series engines aren't accommodating when it comes to "boosting". If it all, what should I look out for? I've got the basics covered, but never had a turbo setup Thanks