mcbrat
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Posts posted by mcbrat
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and updating specs...
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- Vehicle Current Build Specs
- 1982 Subaru Brat GL
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- Engine/Ignition
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Subaru EA81 Engine
-hydro lifter block halves
-Solid lifters
-EA71 pistons
-Delta Torque Cam
Recurved/Rebuilt Distributor
Weber 32/36 carb with 155 mains
MSD 6A Ignition
Accel SuperCoil
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- Driveline
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Subaru '89 GL D/R 5 Speed
Suzuki '84 Samurai divorced t-case with stock gears
Toyota '86 4 runner rear axle, 58" WMS, 4.10 gears
Toyota '85 pickup front axle, 55" WMS + 2" wheel spacers to make it 59", 4.10 gears
Toyota '85 front and rear driveshafts to custom length.
Subaru '82 Driveshaft shortened and made with Suzuki joint/flange
Low Range Off-Road
-Toyota Driveline Adapter for Sami t-case (front output)
Trail Tough Rear Driveline Disconnect for Sammy t-case with Toyota driveshaft flange
Powertrax Lockright in rear
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
-Full Float Conversion with
-Moser Chrome-moly Axle shafts
-Drive flanges
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- Suspension/Steering
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Jeep TJ Coils (stock), front and rear
Jeep TJ Bump Stops
Jeep TJ upper coil buckets (rear)
Toyota FJ80 Tie Rod Ends
Custom Design and Fabrication for SAS done by Chris @ Midwest Customs.
-4 link rear, 3 link front suspensions
-lower links are all the same length
-Steering linkage. machined toyota and Subaru pieces, welded together.
-cross-over steering
All Pro Offroad
-Pitman Arm
-.25 wall tie rod
-2" wheel spacers
Low Range Off-Road
-Toyota 23MM Tie Rod End Bungs
Doetsch Tech 8403 Shocks 32" extended, 18.5" compressed. (all 4 corners)
Ballistic Fabrication Coil retainers for TJ
Rubicon Express Large joints for TJ
Tera-Flex 2" TJ coil spacers in rear
Currie Forged Johnny Joints, 1" shank RH thread w/jams & tube adapters
Poly Performance Stuff
-4 axle brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with a 10 degree offset
-4 adjustable link mount brackets
-4 tube link brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with 10* offset
-3 upper control arm brackets flat mount
-1 upper control arm axle bracket 8"
-8 bushing kits
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- Power Steering Set-up
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Subaru EA81 PS Pump and lines
Subaru PS lines modified to mate up to Toyota lines
Toyota '86 IFS steering box and lines
Aftermarket Power Steering Cooler
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- Brakes Configuration
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Subaru '98 Legacy 1-1/16" bore MC
Subaru '88 (EA82) Hill Holder
Subaru '82 Brat brake hard lines - rebent/re-used
Subaru '82 Brat front soft lines (2)
Subaru '82 Brat T-fitting
Toyota '85 Truck Rear soft brake line
Toyota '85 Truck T-fitting
Toyota Tercel rear brake lines (2)
Toyota '83 FJ40 LandCruser Rotors (front)
Toyota '90 4-Runner V6 Calipers (front)
Toyota '79-mid '81 Supra rear calipers (rear)
Toyota '85 front rotors, turned down (rear)
Toyota '97 4-Runner e-brake set-up
Custom Hardlines
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- Custom Design and Fabrication
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Custom Design and Fabrication for SAS done by Chris @ Midwest Customs.
-t-case cradle and mounts
-subframe.
-Custom rollbar integrated with subframe
-Custom Driveshaft tunnel
-shock mounts (using Ford Explorer, and Dodge Charger mounts)
-rear bumper made from C-chanel beam off a John Deere Combine corn head
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- Other Stuff
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36x12,50x17 Interco SuperSwamper SX tires
Cragar Soft 8 wheels. 17x9 with 4" backspacing.
105" wheelbase (stock is 97")
52:1 crawl ratio
Suzuki '84 Samurai speedo cable
Warn Superwinch S4500 (S5000) (yes, I know, it's too small)
Master-Pull 9k Synthetic line
Sears DieHard Platinum AGM Marine combo battery
RCI 17 Gallon fuel cell with aftermarket fuel gauge in Pillar Pod
WabFab Off-Road Slider adapter for Hi-Lift Jack
Toyota '85 pickup tow hook
Cobra CB
Custom Exhaust
Subaru '72 "Fasten Seat Belts" lights (2, red)
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I finally upgraded to an EJ 1-1/16" MC. had to bend my lines carefully by hand to clear the strut tower....
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and a few pics...
a good cleaning inside and out... the inside of the windows was terrible!
e-brake cable routing...
shifters anyone?
new steering wheel...
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finally got out to test drive it today with the new MC... it's awesome. feels like it would stop on a dime now! and parking brake is nice too. finally having the hole in the floor to the tcase/shifter is nice too. takes a little bit of the noise away...
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overall, I'm really happy with the build, but it's less fun to drive in the street
something about an old, beat-up, stock/slightly lifted soob thrashing around the snowy streets just can't be matched....
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woo hoo! e-brake is functional!
and I also made a hold-down for the boot around my t-case shifter...
and swapped adapter brackets side to side on the Cavalier seat as it was a bit too close to the door...
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no lift on yet, but I did finally put these on...
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hey, a little more done...
I forgot that about 2 weeks ago, I took off the damaged winch cable and replaced with 9k lb synthetic
Tonight:
1. took off stock MC and replaced with Legacy MC.
2. cut hole and mounted e-brake handle from a '97 4-runner.
3. made 1 bracket and tapped 3 holes so far for the axle mounting of the e-brake cable. 2 other stock '85 mount points I can use, and I'll have 1 or 2 more to make, and I'll finally have an e-brake again after 3 years...
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Here is a senario, slowing down to turn onto a side street, left it in 3rd with clutch out, RPMs are about 1500rpm entering the turn, come out of the turn feed normal amount of throttle, one little buck and then it smoothed out (Little boggy because of such a big gear) once the load became less on the motor (At about 20mph in 3rd) the bucking started unless you give it more throttle.
I'm gonna leave the adjustments where they are for now.
Jon, maybe your dad can make some sense out of this.
okay... I think now it's just the driver...
at 20 mph you should be in second gear...
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It will not even idle at 2 turns out, won't even fire up. It has to be 3 to 3-1/4 turns out for it to start up, even then it wants to stall unless you keep feathering the throttle.
Having it 4+ turns out is where its happy, idles and starts good, revvs good.
This is why I'm thinking this carb is defective (Like the disty I bought)
I'd pull the idle jet out and spray carb cleaner or air through to make sure the passageways are clear...
also, at idle, there has to be a bit of vac going through to pull the fuel,
when you cup your hand over it it increases the vac pressure and pulls in the fuel
set your idle mixture to 3 turns out.
make sure your throttle cable has slack in it...
turn throttle adjustment screw until it touches the thrttle plate and starts to move it. then turn another half turn so that your throttle is partly open
Then adjust your throttle cable so the slack just goes away.
try starting.
adjust trottle adjust ment further and try to start, before adjusting the mixture screw.
your just off idle performance is going to be set by a combination of those 2 items mostly.
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I meant going for example from 4th to 3rd or 2nd rather than shifting up. What rpm's are you seeing when it is surging?Oh, yeah, the engine response is right there when you downshift and bring the RPMs up, it has pull aswell.
The bucking/surging/sputtering happens at any and all RPM range when you are lightly on the throttle (Not enough throttle to start pulling, just enough throttle to maintain speed)
sounds to me like its getting to much gas in the carb. making it sputter and buck because its drowning the carb. with to much gas which is why your smelling unused gas, my brat started having the same problem as yours and its parked for now waiting for a carb. rebuild (maybe spark plugs are not gaped right?)exactly....
that's how my Brat ran with the Holley 600 on it
always had to keep it revv'ed...need to set your idle mixture screw to 2 turns out, and start from there with re-adjusting...
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As for mixture adjustment, if you have it 3 or 3-1/2 turns out, it acts like its too lean, cover the barrels with your hand, and the idle picks up and smooths out, so you richen it, I've tried it every which way you can, from 4 turns out to 6 turns out and everywhere in between. It still acts like it is starving, yet the exhaust smells like fuel and it burns you eyes.
But it ALWAYS bucks the same, no matter how the mixture adjustment is set.
Cold start up is perfect, one pump to close the choke, crank, fires up, idles up to about 3000rpm until you kick off the step-up. Idles great, idles great when hot. Drives good if you are on the gas or engine braking. Cruising sucks, starts bucking. You have to keep the motor under load for it not to buck.
Also, once and a while when I shut it off, the engine fires back up (With key off) and will runs for 2 or 3 secs and then stalls (Probably just because fuel is igniting from the heat) I don't have any anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb. It doesn't diesel, it just starts back up lol and then stalls.
standard starting point for weber should be about 2 turns out...
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In other news, I have now removed the Weber DGEV, and I am going to slowly disassemble and check it out bit by bit. I am thinking this bucking has got to be some defect with the carb, either a casting defect or a gasket blocking a passage, or just a damaged component from sloppy assembly from the factory.
Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
I thought it did the bucking with the original carb too?
when it's running, spray carb cleaner around the throttle linkage on the outside of the carb. if it engine speed changes, you have a leak there... still seems to me that somethings not quite right with how the linkage and cable are adjusted
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I may be onto something here! Will post later with details once I find that it did fix the issue.
ALSO, I need a Thermo switch. Mine stopped working today, where can I buy a new one? Rockauto doesn't list it (Only the Temp sender for the gauge) Parts house wants $40 for the switch, BS!
for the radiator? if so, I have a bunch. I bought a case of them off ebay a while back
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I have a 2003 Baja with a stock trailer wiring harness connector behind the rear passenger side wheel. I have a 2009 Legacy hitch wiring harness that I got really cheap, but the plugs don't match up. I want to modify the Legacy harness to fit the baja stock plug.
does anyone happen to know the manufacturer connector number for the baja side? the legacy plug layout is too different to modify it to fit.
both are 6 pin....
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still seems like a vac issue to me...
I had some similar symptons in MtnGRizz before, and I had a vac cap that had split...
passenger head egr tube tightened up properly?
PCV valve working properly?
have you tried removing the vac tube for HVAC and plugging that on the manifold...?
how strong is your throttle return spring?
the throttle position screw should be set so that with the return spring on, when you turn he position screw in, one you make contact, go another half turn...
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have you changed out the fuel filter under the rear of the car yet?
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Well I'll be damned. Thats all the problem was! I really didn't think it would matter where it was hooked up, but I did notice the port on the carb has less section than the port straight off the intake, so I can see how that can be a major problem.
Problem finally solved! Thank you all! Mick, thank you for the illustrations.
yes, by having 2 vac sources connected, the stronger vac from the intake manifold was pulling fuel in through the vac advance port on the carb, so it would have been creating turbulence affecting the fuel atomization.
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you should let it run a bit too without anything hooked up to the vac advance port on the carb, so that it sucks all the fuel back out of it...
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in the above weber pic, the "Keep Plugged" I'm assuming you have removed the stock threaded plug and hooked to vac port on EGR valve... that should be okay, as long as you fix the other vac connections...
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just to clarify...
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I am running an EA82 EGR.
So all the vac lines I have are:
HVAC (Runs to Intake port)
Vac Advance (Run to Intake Port)Brake Booster
EGR (Runs to port off front carb)
I have one fuel line running to the carb, No Emissions canister and everything else is capped off.
I hope that's a typo. Vac advance port on carb should connect to disty.
Few other things.Is fuel suppose to come out of the "Vac Advance port" on the front of the carb? I removed the cap I had on it since I am not using that port, and I found fuel in the cap!Also, how does Back pressure effect these Carbed motors? Even after I repaired the exhaust I have, it still leaks in a spot or two.
No! but if you have the vac hoses hooked up as you wrote above I could see this happening... and causing your bucking...
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To answer you question, nope. There is no play in the rotor shaft, I've read about how the bushings like to wear out, but so far, mine are still good.
I have not checked the vacuum advance yet, what do I have to do, in order to check it?
As for vac lines, I have the vac advance, Booster and the HVAC. Booster and HVAC run off the intake ports, the Vac advance it running off the port in front on the Weber.
As for Fuel Filters, I changed the one in the engine bay, but the one by the Fuel pump is unknown. Perhaps I will change that as well when I get paid.
DISCOVERY:
The bucking will happen at any RPM, but still only before engine load.
still sounds like a vac issue...
find an empty parking lot, and plug the ports on your manifold for the brake booster and hvac and test what happens...
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not really. been too busy with my money pit house... or working on my '72 K20, though I did pull off the old winch cable that was damaged, and replaced with synthetic...
I just drove it a bit last night and parked it in the garage so I can swap in the Legacy MC.
I guess I did rebuild the carb this summer too.
EA81 Master Cylinder/Booster Upgrade?
in Subaru Retrofitting
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I needed the volume because of the larger area at the calipers. Toy V6 calipers front, and Toy Supra disks in rear...
with the 13/16 MC, I had the soft pedal, and had to pump them to get full engagement brake power. Now, with the 1-1/16 MC, yes, I have a stiff pedal, but the stroke is less...