mcbrat
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Posts posted by mcbrat
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Fuel pump permanent wiring in
Temp gauge wiring in
choke wiring in
battery hold downs in
hood shut with ac comp in spare area readt to have the r12 removed.
It definitely is gonna need exhaust!
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yep. larger one is main feeder line, smaller one below is return, and the one that wraps around the tank is the vent.
not sure on the valve...
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maybe I'll bust apart an ea81 cluster and duct tape the oil pressure and tach to your dash
then it will be a GL 
I'm going to add a kill switch to your dash for the grounding of the fuel pump relay (used to happen through the ECU, but since thats gone now....)
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oh, and the alternator Denis put in previously is putting out 14.1v so it's good.
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depending on what year tank you ended up with the fittings can be different. if there's a larger fitting or the lowest one, that's the main line.
the other ones would be the return line and the vent line... which goes around the side and up to the canister in the body...
got a decent pic of the fittings?
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It's Alive!
http://www.facebook.com/v/434747213205345
still to complete...
choke wiring
Temp gauge wiring
evacuate AC system and remove
I was gonna wire in the tach, but it's a DL
so no tach... might need to get an oil pressure switch for the dummy light too, as the pump has the sender for a GL Oil Pressure Gauge....DONE speedo cable hooked up
DONE clutch cable installed
DONE radiator & hoses
DONE electric rad fan
DONE power steering pump installed
DONE exhaust bolted on
DONE brake booster vac line hooked up
DONE power steering lines adapted and connected
DONE torque pressure plate bolts
DONE heater hoses installed
DONE starter installed
DONE new coil mounted
DONE ballast resistor installed
DONE alternator and belt installed
DONE battery hooked up
DONE weber installed
DONE fuel pump swapped
DONE vac connections
DONE PCV hookup
DONE new plug wires
DONE disty/coil/fan wiring
DONE PS belt
DONE trans gear oil
DONE engine oil
DONE coolant
DONE PS fluid
TEMP fuel pump wiring
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still plenty more work ahead
DONE speedo cable hooked up
DONE clutch cable installed
DONE radiator & hoses
DONE electric rad fan
DONE power steering pump installed
DONE exhaust bolted on
DONE brake booster vac line hooked up
DONE power steering lines adapted and connected
DONE torque pressure plate bolts
DONE heater hoses installed
DONE starter installed
DONE new coil mounted
DONE ballast resistor installed
DONE alternator and belt installed
DONE battery hooked up
DONE weber installed
DONE fuel pump swapped
DONE vac connections
DONE PCV hookup
DONE new plug wires
disty/coil/choke/fan/fuel pump wiring
PS belt
trans gear oil
engine oil
coolant
PS fluid
evacuate AC system and remove
and probably more stuff I'm forgetting....
really close now!
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jackmans are pretty much flat side to side... and thicker steel...
here's a comparison of the ea81/ea82 wagon wheels.
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the starter moved for the first time in a while... just a half second though to make sure the IGN switch was working
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sounds about right to me...
1. don't compare mileage with a lighter car...
2. don't compare mileage with OR/WA folks
I thought someone said their fuel was infused with O2 for better burning/emissions, but I don't know whats true with that... however every time I've driven out to WA for vacations, I always got better mileage out there as compared to back home in Iowa... -
You found time to do this with the monsoon. yeah. after I scrambled to get the Forester and Baja in the garage (after hearing quarter sized hail in DSM) , I had some time to study the FSM and find the alt as I had taken that off some time ago...
the storm didn't seem too bad here at least but I don't hear lots of weather... this house is actually insulated and helps deaden the sounds. the old house had nearly zilch for insulation...
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I've got 2 of the 14" Jackmans. Paired up with 2 14" pug steels.
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still plenty more work ahead
DONE speedo cable hooked up
DONE clutch cable installed
DONE radiator & hoses
DONE electric rad fan
DONE power steering pump installed
DONE exhaust bolted on
DONE brake booster vac line hooked up
DONE power steering lines adapted and connected
DONE torque pressure plate bolts
DONE heater hoses installed
DONE starter installed
DONE new coil mounted
DONE ballast resistor installed
DONE alternator and belt installed
DONE battery hooked up
weber installed
PS belt
fuel pump
vac connections
disty/coil/choke/fan/fuel pump wiring
trans gear oil
engine oil
coolant
PS fluid
evacuate AC system and remove
and probably more stuff I'm forgetting....
found the check connector for the fuel pump and ready to get the coil and disty hooked up...
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it's getting harder to get 14" tires with offroad bit unless you go with swampers. I'd go with 15's...
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I'm really getting excited now, I want to redrill my hubs, get those 16" Steelies. I also want a Brat fuel door (Which is flat like a body panel) I want to hear this baby fire up again! Only heard it once a few months ago. It will be a notable day for sure!
I think I will get my rockers welded up first and then worry about the Fuel tank and Delivery lines.
I have a few spares... I didn't think the wagon body had exactly the same curvature though...
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and by installed, I just mean:
In the engine bay, bolted to D/R trans, engine mounts bolted in.
still plenty more work ahead
DONE speedo cable hooked up
DONE clutch cable installed
DONE radiator & hoses
DONE electric rad fan
DONE power steering pump installed
DONE exhaust bolted on
DONE brake booster vac line hooked up
DONE power steering lines adapted and connected
DONE torque pressure plate bolts
DONE heater hoses installed
DONE starter installed
DONE new coil mounted
DONE ballast resistor installed
new plug wires
weber installed
alt/PS belts
fuel pump
vac connections
disty/coil/choke/fan/fuel pump wiring
trans gear oil
engine oil
coolant
PS fluid
evacuate AC system and remove
and probably more stuff I'm forgetting....
and again... a little more completed.
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yes, please define what you'll be doing in the mud. if you want to run mud drags, you need high power and huge tires for clearance... mud racing + big tires + STi engine + Soob axles = frequently blown axles
if you are wanting muddy trail riding then EJ22 should suffice... heck even your stock rig would be fine becasue you'd rather have high speed wheel spin to clean out the tires than low speed spin with better gearing....
I have hear of hot turbos shattering when suddenly immersed in cold water/mud, but it was on a different vehicle. the soob turbos are pretty well protected most of the time...
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if the dash is the same how come the instrument cluster from the 84 phsyically wouldnt fit in the 81 dash? the 84 instrument cluster was 2 inches taller and 3
inches longer than the space available.
then your '81 is a DL or STD with a smaller instrument cluster, but the physical "dash" is still the same length with the same mounting locations...
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and by installed, I just mean:
In the engine bay, bolted to D/R trans, engine mounts bolted in.
still plenty more work ahead
DONE speedo cable hooked up
DONE clutch cable installed
DONE radiator & hoses
DONE electric rad fan
DONE power steering pump installed
DONE exhaust bolted on
DONE brake booster vac line hooked up
power steering lines adapted and installed
torque pressure plate bolts
heater hoses
new plug wires
starter installed
weber installed
alt/PS belts
fuel pump
vac connections
coil
disty/coil/choke/fan/fuel pump wiring
trans gear oil
engine oil
coolant
and probably more stuff I'm forgetting....
a little more completed.
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thought I'd add this here... I found this recording of the slap while researching my noise
mine sounds just like this, but not as loud...http://www.butkus.org/subaru/piston_slap/subaru_piston_slap.htm
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Good info Mick, thank you! I haven't tried to turn the rear adjustment bolt yet, but I did clean up the thread with a wire wheels before I repainted it. It might still turn with a little effort (Same goes for the fronts)
So for giggles, I am looking at 15x6.6" 6-lug Trailer wheels. How hard is it to redrill steel wheels and make the correct lug seat? I take it, that I would drill the correct size hole first to make my Lug stud, and then use a larger bit to create the lug seat? I would then fill the unused holes with weld and grid smooth.
Anyone who has done this before, please chime in
Also, as long as I remove the warning sticker which I see on the wheel. A Tire shop won't be able to tell its not an Automotive wheel, right? Is there any real difference at all anyway?
Was looking at these two sets, Which one does everyone like better? Vote.
25" diameter is about the the largest you can go with a bit of cutting and bashing. any larger and you'll need to lift or really cut and bash a lot more...
195/65R15 = 25
205/60R15 = 24.7
and what style are you looking to put on?
I still have my mis-matched set of 14's for sale...
as far as redrilling, technically you should use a chamfer bit to put the right angle on the seat. just depends on how proper you want to be...
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https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/VehicleDetails.aspx?auctionID=0&itemID=12504903&RowNumber=9#
I think this is only the second one I've seen....
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For future reference, are you supposed to adjust the front and rear tension while the vehicle is on the ground or up in the air?
Which way do I turn the rear adjustment bolt to increase tension, Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise? Also, how can I be certain that I adjust both front struts evenly?
I'm gonna make a wild guess and say your rear adjustment bolt is rusted tight... but since you have the assembly out, you should try and clean up the threads... I believe tightening it (clockwise) raises the ride height.
for the fronts, clean the threads on the adjusters really good too. yes, adjust both bolts evenly, and the same from side to side. use lots of penetrating oil.... use a flashlight, and count the visible threads... to make sure you are even... or measure.
88 spfi trouble
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
well, since there's no muffler on it it hard to tell if it's leaking at the Y pipe junction... but based on the way it flexes, I'd say it's rusted through...
you're gonna need a new stock Y pipe anyway. it's mounted enough to get it home
I'll be home all day Saturday for pickup
I'll be clearing the garage for the city wide garage sale day....
I even tucked up your wiring under the dash and reconnected your CB.
the trans didn't have any knobs on it when I got it (already gone...) so I put on the one I pulled off the SS, and for the D/R selector, I tapped another spare t-case knob I had from something else...