mcbrat
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Posts posted by mcbrat
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How long are the 4 longest intake bolts in MM? I want to say JesZek used 80mm long bolts in his EA82 intake, but does this also apply to the EA81?
Also, what is the MM length of the 2 shortest intake bolts?
I am looking at ebay, and need to know before I order.
can't you measure the ones you took out?
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first two times the front crank seal was replaced under warranty...
'09 Forester XT
not exactly thrilled...
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Ok so my old key broke in my ignition on my 79 brat... About half the key. I have spares already so I can still lock my doors and the ignition still turns over with the other half key in it so I can still drive it. Soooo any ideas of how to get it broken half key out without taking it to a locksmith first or just bite the bullet and take it to a lockssmith????? Any suggestions would be apreciated...
you should just sell me your Brat cheap, then you no longer have the key problem...
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no, looks like that will be later this summer. got a deck to build, and save up money for new struts all around to do at the same time as the lift...
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I would think that since you made the hybrid axles with Legacy cups, then your next weekend point will be your axle stubs...
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ya i was doing some searching to lift y 79 brat and i found quite alotof info but the only thing i couldnt find is the specs for the 4" lift like the blocks and degrees if anyone could help me out id be super stoked
I have a 4" lift kit for sale... just needs bolts and steering extension.
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Mine was made by FW Mini-Cars
I was able to pick up new brake, clutch, wheels, and sprocket, plus a seat at Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/ but any go-kart type place could have stuff...
you need a low back seat. I have a higher back one and I can't get the body on... I had to make custom brackets for the seats...
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and get a pre-formed waterpump top to heater hose. that kink in yours will not work.
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I'll keep the EA82 EGR on it, I guess there really is no point on ditching it.
So here is what I have so far, I am in the mindset of doing a Weber swap. So I removed the Hitachi and most of the unneeded stuff from the intake, and then I installed the into onto the Block, and torqued the bolts to 13ft.lbs like is stated in the Haynes. I have one bolt that gets snug, but I can no torque it, just turns. I wonder if this will become an issue? I still have the other 5 bolts torqued to spec (Pray for no leaks!)
hmmm. probably will leak and re-corrode the bolts....
pull intake back off and you'll have 2 choices:
1. helicoil that hole
2. tap to just slightly larger and run a slightly bigger drill bit through the matching hole in intake...
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have been post some photos of the engine in Guido now... has been stripped down to bare minimum needed to run weber...
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I'd wait for the weber. then you ditch all the TVVs, the black hardlines, etc... clean and simple. did the AC work on it?
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and if you are putting the weber on, you only need 3-5 vac lines.
brake booster to manifold
disty vac advance to carb
heater control vac line(s) to manifold
EGR valve if using it
Ben's EA81 in SPFI body just has 3...
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a standard ea81 EGR valve will fit on there... do you still have the EGR valve off your original manifold?
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That line off the EGR goes to the Anti-Afterburn Valve, (AAV), mounted on the DS strut tower.
The short section of rubber hose, (nearest to EGR), has been a source of vac leak on a couple of mine. PITA to change out on the vehicle.
Tom, you got rid of all that stuff, so you need to use your original EGR valve then... or use a block plate...
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what's up with the EGR valve with the coolant pipe? that's not anything I've ever seen before....
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if running a weber, you don't need either of those (black or yellowish) vac valves...
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what do the rails look like on the inside? all the different Gen2 shells' I've had, all used J hooks to grab the loops on the inside of the bed. there is usually a hole through the inside edge of the rail that sits on the bed trim. and for added strength, either flat steel/aluminum bar bent to shape of bed that lays on top of the rail and has the same bolt holes to go through...
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Mick, that is the lower rad support, yeah? Looks slightly different than mine, probably because it is a 2WD?
well, I think its the part on the front of the core support. the main core support with headlight cutouts, and this piecs are assembled together it looks like from the parts book. and yes, it's different because it's the 2wd part... probably similar, but I'm guessing the same general shape... depending on how bad yours is, this one could probably be cut and welded in to clean stuff up nicely... especially if you have to cut and fab up the lower core support....
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I've had similar issues and had to clean and relube the caliper slides...
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woohoo! what parts did they leave out?!?
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Cool! Yeah I'm just gonna get the kit. At least it comes with everything I need for the EA81.
The only thing I'm not sure about is the exposed air cleaner setup. How does this effect extreme cold starts? Theres no heat riser, and the filter is wide open, more exposed to water spray and such. I read that you can't really use the EA81 air intake mod unless you have a lifted rig with a dropped motor.
Just want to make sure my car will start when its -20* and blowing snow
the stock air box is roughly the height of the short filter... it might work, depending on how you fab up the intake. I put a weber on mtngrizzly way back in 2000, and It was my daily driver many winters without issues... though with your 3 vehicles, your ski wagon will have the coldest cabin temps
unless you are putting in a new heater core... and even then, it's still no heat wave unless you're doing a good distance...
My 1985 Brat
in Members Rides
Posted
http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/cbrat/cbrat.html
that's just the pics. I think I have the whole article, where the owner explained what was done...