Fish-N-Fool

Not around here you can get a runner that might need some work for that price. Id say $250 max

By welding in the hatch and welding the doors up it will make up any structural problems it would have, I may also add a rollover bar at some point. I also plan to weld sheet metal on the top of each bed side to cover the cut marks from the roof pillars but it will add water proofing and extra strength.

What are you going to use for the rear window and framing? You could use the back of a small pickup cab and just weld it in. Since I'm tall and need the seat all the way back and then some I will put the stock rear hatch on for more room inside.

Well sounds to me like you have a dead short in the system somewhere, start at where the wired and such got hot and replace as necessary. By the Way i used to live in lake Stevens some 25 years ago out on the Granite Falls Hwy across from 113th That was my race car shop up on the little hill and I had a Trailer house there to live in. Build about a 100 race cars out of the shop, mostly Mustangs, them were the good ole days.

Here is a bunch of photos of it on this site http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_45175-Subaru-Brat-1982.html

So here is a photo shop type drawing of what I plan to build. I will start with a good running 1.8 L. EFI motor in a Loyale 4 door SW body and add to it with a 5 speed tranny with the Hi low transfer case. I plan to do a homemade 3" lift. 3" on the springs and 2" on the engine, tranny, and rearend mounts and the custom truck conversion I will do myself.. I will weld the rear hatch directly to the cut off roof and weld in a triangle plate to fill the hole. I will also weld the rear doors shut and fill in all in to look like it came from the factory that way. I think I may add an old pickup bed floor to it so It looks nice and clean inside the bed, as well as make it water proof. Then from the wrecking yard I will cut a second hatch down to make a functional tailgate. I plan to do a complete bedliner paint job on this so I can beat the brush with worring about scratching it. I will be doing a 6 lug wheel conversion as well, with 235/70/R15 tires on chrome spoke 15 X 7 wheels. I will be cutting out the wheel wells and flaring them to make enough clearance for the oversize tires. I want to do a rear disk conversion also if I can find a GL10 donor car This will be more of a off road work truck then fancy. To cut wood with, look for huckelberrys and just play 4X4. I plan to use this to tow a small bass boat so I can fish remote lakes that are to far away to fish otherwise and the Hi-low tranny is a must top pull the boat in andout of the water. Anybody else out there ever done this? So What you guy think, COOOOL or no cool?

I bet this didnt end well.

This is a photo drawing of the Subee I'm going to build soon as I find a good car to build I'm looking for a fuel injected motor with the 5 speed hi-low tranny. I plan to do a homemade 3" lift. 3" on the springs and 2" on the engine, tranny, and rearend mounts and a custom truck conversion myself. I will be doing a 6 lug wheel conversion with 235/70/R15 tires. I will be cutting out the wheel wells and flaring them to make enough clearance for the oversize tires. I plan to do a complete bedliner paint job. This will be more of a off road work truck then fancy to cut wood with and play. I plan to use this to tow a small bass boat so I can fish remote lakes and the Hi-low tranny is a must top pull the boat in and out of the water. With this i can fish lakes that are to far away to be able to drive my gas gussler Ford F250 and my Big bass boat there and i can fish them a lot more often.

I still have not been able to figure this out. I don't know what to do, but throw more parts at it and I'm running out of money here even for wrecking yard parts. Has anyone ever had this problem?

yes you can feel it in the wheel as well

No just regular ole cheapies

Hey Dan I would have a hard time believing that this new axle (wrecking yard axle) would do that exact same thing as the old one did. I replaced all that stuff to try to fix this problem. I'm not putting in new parts till i figure out what the problem is.

Hey mikey we are almost neighbors, I'm just east of P.R. 12 miles in Vay. maybe you could come by and help me with my problem? lol

If this is a auto tranny I would check the nuteral safety switch or if it is a 5 speed the clutch safety switch before you did anything else. Both are designed to not let the car start when in gear and they go bad quite often. it is an EZ test to jump arond them with a wire if the car starts, replace the switch. The Clutch switch is up under the dash on the pedal assembly and I believe the auto is on the floor shifter.

Come on guys any good ideas as to whats going on here? I know the differance between a motor miss and the whole car shaking from something out of balance. I jacked up the car and ran it in gear and it will not make the viberation unless it is under a load. It is drivetrain related as it increases with tire speed, not engine speed. It shakes the car very hard to where it is undriveable. It does it in 2 or 4 wheel drive as well. I just dont get it, I thought sure it was an axle problem.

I have a weird problem on my 93 loyale with a 5 speed, it has a knocking sound and bad viiberation in the steering wheel and whole car for that matter that comes and goes. It never does it when it's cold only after about 10 miles of driving. It starts small and gets worse the farther you drive. It hammers under acceleration, but is smooth when coasting and it's much worse turning to the left. The sound is coming from the drivers front near as I can tell. I have replace the drivers side axle and wheel bearings and did the pass wheel bearing about a year ago as well as the axle. I can't see or feel anything wrong with the front end any where, tie rods are tight and I don't feel any bad ball joints. It sounds and feels like a axle that is out of balance to me, but they both seem fine by looking. They seam a little loose on the tranny splines though, Any thoughts? I'm a pretty good mechanic and this has me stumped. Any chance it's the tranny?

I looked at a GL-10 tonite thats for sale, I can get it for $400 bucks. It has a running motor, but a auto trans that doesn't work. He put a tranny in that was the wrong one (it had the 4 speed auto in it) and couldn't get it to work as the tranny he put in had no wiring hookup to the computer so he couldn't plug it in. I want to convert it over to a 5 speed and I need to know if a regular gl tranny will fit the axles and drivelines. I know I will need the flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, cable, and foot pedals. I'm guessing the gear ratio is differant also so would need to do a gear swap in the rearend as well. Am I missing anything????? What about the ECU can I use the one it has? or would I need one out of a 5 speed If so would it have to be out os a GL-10 turbo with a 5 speed or would any work?

I know this will work to put a EJ motor into a EA body but not sure it it would work the other way around or what else is involved this axles and drivelines, tranny mounts, and such.

I want to put a older Hi-Low 5 speed tranny out of a GL into a 95 or newer Legacy or Outback subee with the 2.2 motor. What adapter plate would I need and what else is involved to do so?

I need to replace the input shaft seal on a 1996 Outback legacy with the 2.2 engine with a 5 speed tranny. Production date is 2/96 I found this post here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87305-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/ but it doesn't really say that’s models and years this covers. Is this the correct info for my trans? I'm also unclear on some of the procedures as some of the pictures you can't really see what they are talking about. I've never really done any transmission work before, but I a good understanding of how they work and a good mechanical background. Is this something I should even attempt?