Fish-N-Fool

Never mind I think I got it figured out. I wasnt checking it with a helper to cycle the pump like i needed to, so it does have power when you first turn the key on, but the pump doesn't work so It just needs a new pump

Hey Super brat I see your in N. Idaho as well, where do you live? I'm about 12 miles n. of Spirit lake

I plan to build a Brat wannabee out of my 1993 Loyale wagon. The plan is to cut the roof off the back half and the top off the hatch in the back and weld a second hatch in place to make the rear wall and back window. It will look hopefully like this when done. My Question is, has anyone here done this and what problems may I incur.

It shift fine in all gears but reverse I'm running 80 wt gear oil like it calls for. it does not make a difference if the engine is running or not

This is the weirdest tranny problem I've ever seen . It only fails to shift when it's cold once it warms up it never misses a beat. I don't get it, but it's sadly true. I had to push my guts out this morning to get it out of the carport as I couldn't get it to go into rev. gear, 5 minutes later no prob. lol

Still looking for some help here

When you say they who is that ? If it was a shop it's up to them to fix it. Sounds to me like they forgot to hook something up correctly

It is not the shifter or to heavy of oil . It does not hit the body nor is the clutch out of adjustment. It does shift into the gear as the backup lights come on and the shifter in in the correct spot, the tranny just does not move the lever inside it into the gear when it is cold. The only way I can get it to work is to shift it with the clutch out in and out of reverse till I can feel it grind then it will shift fine the rest of the day. I guess i will have to put in a new tranny if it gets any worse.

OK after driving this with my new/used tranny I have found that it only fails to shift into reverse when it is cold as in sat for a day or so. Once it warms up it never misses a beat. I know it sounds weird, but sadly true.

Many years ago i had a 88 GL wagon that had a plastic snap on /off headlight covers to keep the glass from breaking. Anyone know if these are still available?

It's not like it doesn't mesh at all, the stick shift does bask into the reverse position the tranny does not. Guess i need a tranny expert

I got my tranny swap all done and I have found out I have a weird problem. 90% of the time the tranny works great with no troubles, but once in a while when I go to shift it into reverse the shift lever finds the reverse spot, but the tranny does not go into gear. It is like it misses the gear. I put it back in neutral and back into reverse a few times and it catches and goes in. It feels different when it does really go in as well, as you can feel it moving the gear and when it misses you can tell it's moving nothing. Any thoughts? did I get a bad tranny at the wrecking yard?

Yah but you still have to get this dammmmmmm bolt out

I tried soaking them in PB Blaster the last time for days and got nowhere So I don't think that will ever work on these. They are both Legacy Outbacks hers is a 95 and ours is a 96

I'm sure someone has brought this up in the past. I had to recently replace the left rear wheel bearings on my sister-in-laws car and I had a *itch of a time with it. The lower long bolt that holds the 2 lower trailing arms was seized and I tried everything to remove and could not. I ended up cutting it off with a torch and ruined one of the rubber mounts. Then I found the same problem with almost all of them at the wrecking yard in trying to get a new bolt for the one I had cut. After about 6 tries I did find one that was not stuck and got it fixed, but now my outback it starting to make rear wheel bearing noise and I really don't want to go through the same nightmare I had the last time. Is the any secrets to doing this without pulling the bolt or somebody figured out how to remove it without ruining the parts? It would seem to me that Subaru could have fixed this poor design with just a little anti-seize on the bold and bushings.

I think on these it's far easier to pull the tranny. I just did a clutch on my 95 that broke the fork as well. I put in a new fork and all the other clutch parts just to be safe, took about 4 hours total. The hardest part is setting the tranny down and lifting it back up as they are heavier then you would think they would be. I made a tranny jack out of an old floor jack I use for this by welding a plate with some angle iron on each side so the tranny is cradled and wont fall off. I have used this on autos and manuals both.

Just wanted to update this . I replaced my old S.R. tranny with a D.R. (only because I wanted the low gears for off roading and launching my boat) as well as both front axles and the rear drive line and no more shaking. So not sure which one was the problem, but I think it was the tranny. But it drives great now and I have the Hi/Lo tranny I always wanted in it. Next is the 3" lift and the 6 lug conversion to 15: wheels Then I'm are going to chop it like this

I don't need any for the rear as I didn't do anything with it. I got 4 qt of the tranny oil, 3 reg. 90W and 1 Lucus oil additive for Trannys and rear ends. I plan to put in the 3 reg 90 W. and half the Lucus in my Subee and the other half in my F250 4x4 truck 5 speed.

well since no one replied I went out and got a qt, of Lucus gear oil and 3 qt of 90 w to put in it.

I hope you mean soldered. Brazing is with a bronze welding wire and soldering is with a silver/lead/tin solder. That is used for radiators.

The tranny I bought at the wrecking yard was drained of all the gear lube and I need to know how much I need to fill it and what the recommended gear lube is. Last is there something better that will make it shift better and maybe less friction and I could get a little more HP and gas MPG

That's what fender flares are for

The chance you could end up in a crumpled heap along side the road is also high, when one of your wheels falls off. Sell the wheels and get the right ones or look for some wheel spacer adepter plates that will bold to the subaru lugs and then to the wheels.

I had the opposite problem with my subee. I would adjust the clutch and in a few days it would not disengage and I could not get in any gear without turning the motor off and then speed shifting till i got it home. I did that about 3 times so I pulled the tranny to find the fork was cracked at the pivot and it was poking through the shift fork. I put in a new fork, clutch, P.P. and throwout bearing anyway even though it really didn't need anything but the fork. Because i didn't want to do it again in a few years.

How could you drop the engine X member 3 " and the tranny mount only 2" that would put it in a bind as far as I can see it.