nipper

You need a front u joint. All the joints should act the same. Yes this is exactly how it feels and it just gets worse and more severe with time nipper

Rule of thumb for gas mileage is three tanks of gas. the biggest cause for inconsisitancy in gas milage is your not filling the tank the same every time all the time. You need to use the same pump all the time and stop at the first click. Do not top off. Things like tire pressure, snow on the road, a drginging brake caliper that happens only when the car is cold. A tank of very short trips as opposed to longer trips. The other thing that is beyond your control is the weather. Barometric pressure, rain wind and air temp all have an affect. The temp of the fuel when it goes in the tank has an effect to. Cold fuel you will get more fule per gallon as opposed to warm fuel, which expands. Have i given you a headache yet? The best way to acheive optimal gas milegae for your individual vehical is to buy a vacum gauge. Try to keep the needle as high as possible and you will get the best milage you can in your car. nipper

way cool. Since you seem to know more about the "nuts and bolts" then i do, what does the motor do, does it pump the pressure, or activate the the modulation some how. Yes i would love to take one of these things apart nipper

Its far safer to talk religon and politics here then oil and oil filters my vote is for wixx or subaru/purolater brand. ive always used purolator on everything i ever owned. nipper

bad subyluvr2212 no biscuit

The abs i think will run with the key off under the thoery that if you stall and have to roll to the side of the raod, you still have brakes, and aneed for abs, though i am not 100% sure on that, im sure somone will correct me. There is a fuse for the ABS, that i thnk is only for the abs. You can pull that fuse. The ABS puter i think turns the pump on by completing the ground. This setup rarely blows a fuse when blown when there is a short, thats the down side to it. The way the abs unit itself works that once the abs is told to activate, the first solenoid activates to cut off the pressure from the master cylinder (meaning the driver cant apply more pressure to the brakes, but can relase the brakes and the fluid will be released) The Motor then turns on at the same time http://www.dashdriving.com/tutorials/abs.htm The motor is there to help modulate pressure in the braking sysytem. From what i read, the motor is either grounded out, or there is a problem with the abs brain. The ABS light is telling you there is a failure. SInce this is an odd ball failure, i would say get it loked at as i cant tell you how this fault is interacting with the rest of the system. Normally i would say it wouldnt have any effect on braking. But if this unit is chewing itself up or something, i wouldnt want the responsablity or guilt of being wrong. Have it checked. nipper PS another good ABS explination, bnut not relevant to your problem... no such thing as too much information http://www.geocities.com/nosro/abs_faq/

Thats what he said "I have no rear wheel drive, my understanding is that the duty c solenoid energizes and disengages the rear drive when the fuse is put in" When the fuse is in, it energizes the solenoid, the AWD is disnegaged. He has a dead solenoid, He has a dying tranny, whic makes the entire point moot. Its no longer recomended by subaru that the car gets towed with a sling, but gets flat beded. The fuse is for driving on a spare. Of late if you have torque bind, you put the fuse in to keep the tranny from self destructing untill you either get the tranny flushed or the clutch pack repaired. From what ive seen on the boards you can drive for a long time with this fuse in. The fear of over heating the solenoid is moot, as the solenoid is lives in a very harsh and hot place, far hotter then it can get just by being energized on its own. So you ruffled a feather. nipper

thank You thats them

take your time and look around, you have some time yet, you may be pleasantly surprised. i cant speak for pre 95 trannies, but they seem to last a long time. At the very least try to find one with the mileage of yours or less. Also look for entire cars that have no resale value. Grandmas are out there with low mileage cars still BTW what happens if you try to start off in D2 or manually shift the car? nipper

Who are the few on line parts suppliers everyone refers too? i lost that info. Thanks nipper

If you get a CCR engine, 90% of your post is moot. General rule of thumb is if it is anything that is buried when the engine is in it, change it while it is out. Otherwise if you go the HG Route Spark Plugs timing belt tensioner cam seals main seals front and rear the plasic seprator thingie (can someone explain to me what that is im clueless) water pump Reseal the oil pump "O" rings on the PS hose at the rack (much easier to do with no engine in the car) These may not leak, but its nice to change them just in case Fan Belts Replace all coolant hose Factory Themostat Inspect the CV joints and ball joints tie rod ends bushings and wheel bearings I would take a good look at the radiator and make sure its not clogged and in good shape Insepct the universal joint in the steering column for wear and binding Thats all i can think of nipper

All sorts of spinny things under there. If you dont know when the belt was changed, abd you like the car, think about chinging it. Are you sure its not a heat sheild? when exactly does it make this noise, at what engine rpms and or speed nipper

MR NIPPER!!! EEEEKKKKKK it sounds like your tranny is dying. Band can be adjusted, but at this point it sounds likes its too late. Its still hard to tell what its doing in second, but considering sooby trannies tend to work or the dont with nothing inbetween, its time to start looking. The speed sensors may be ohms but also will need an analog volt meter to check as one is hall effect, i dont know about the one in the spedo head. Since it sounds like youll be looking for a used tranny soon, if a shop is going to installit, let them trouble shoot everything too. Who knows all the issues may go away with the next tranny

so YOUR the one that does less then 70 in NJ, we were wondering who that one singular person was making it harder for the rest of us (heheheh) all gas in NY has ethanol downstate, nit sure about upstate nipper

only place ive seen carpet is JC Whitney Autoparts catalog. You may want to look there. nipper

Here in NY we have had it for ages. It's amazing what the ECU can adjust for. i saw no differnce on any of my cars with FI. Carberator cars had some loss of mpg. nipper

Woo slow down. There is nothing wrong with the ABS. ABS is designed to have no affect on braking if it fails. The only thing ive seen abs units do besides fail (abs light is on) is the unit gets external leaks. There are many things that can be wrong with your brakes. The pads or rotors can be glazed. you can have a blown grease seal drippin grease on a brake. You can have frozen or leaking calipers. You can have collapsed brake lines. The 99 is heavier then the 96. It may have a longer stopping distance due to this. Tires make a differnce too. You can upgrade brake hardware if you dont like the way it stops. What do you mean by "less sensative" Take the car someplace that will closely examine your brake system. nipper

see below nipper

Well it happens sooner or later, bigger engine, without changing the car all that much, you look at the maintanece items. When you bury spark plugs, you extend thier service interval to 100K, this way one of twothings happen. The plugs get changed once every 8 years, or the original owner sells the car before that service interval comes up. yes thats alot of money, but look how often it has to be done. nipper

But yet your willing to spend 3000.00 dollars for a new engine that wont fix the problem SO then give us a fighting chance to help you out here, otherwise im going to stop and move on. What did you replace What are the symptons When does it occur What engine is in the car How many miles What transmission is in the car Did you have any codes pulled, if not get them pulled and tell us what they are. nipper

The switches pop out easily, or you can partially unbolt the console and make sure they are connected to the wiring harness. The lights are probably burned out. Do a search on Climate Conrol lights and you will see how to replace them. The seats take time to heat up, as they arent instant on. Drive with them on for 30 minutes to give them plenty of time to heat up. Ods are if you have the switches, you have heated seats. On the passenger seat (looking from the drivers seat) there will be a cable on the left side of the seat that goes to the seatback (at least my 97 has that). It is possible that the heaters are blown or you never gave them a chance to come on. Try the "high" setting first. nipper

You have never stated what your issues are, what are they? Have you had codes pulled from the engine? Have you reset the ECU? Have you done a compression test? You say in a later post you replaced sensors.... which ones and ewhat made you think it was those? You dont want to throw money at the car. Well untill you do any of these, thats what you are doing, and its not necassarliy the cars fault. So lets start at square one, with a new thread if need be... nipper

do NOT replace the engine, i bet there is nothing wrong with it. If a subaru is one tooth out of time it wont run. Your timing is fine. The fact that car starts then dies tells me you have another issue, that in all likelyhood would be inherited by the new engine. Since your willing to spend the 3000.00 dollars for an engine, why not spend 300 at a shop you trust and let them fix the car. nipper

ive rebuilt at least 20 engines over the years (AMC Ford Chrysler Yamaha Kawaski VW GM Corvair and countless small engines), only had to replace one piston and connecting rod, and all the engines lived full lives. All the pistons were sent to the machine shop and inspected. The one i had to replace had a huge hole in it where the valve droped. I had that piston and rod balanced to match all the others. As long as the machine shop says they are good, they can be reused. Again it al goes back to a proper machine shop you can trust. Out my way (where am i in the stix or mars) we go by OE recomendations or SAE recomendations when OE is not available. Maybe German pistons are more sensative to wear, i dont know havent had the pleasure (or the break the bank displeasure) of rebuilding a mercedes. I'ld have to see the specs, i just speak from my expierience thats all. nipper Automotive Engineering Technician SAE member since 1984 (ouch)

pistons are rarely replaced when an engine is rebuilt,and if they are replaced, you replace only one. a Piston may get re-nurled, but thats about it. Again it comes down to a good machine shop. Pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, block, heads, are serviced or reused if not too badly damaged. nipper