nipper

First of thats GREAT miles on a turbo motor. The heat issue is indictative of a HG problem. If you have an external leak, out a can of sooby coolant treatment in it. If its internal get a exhaust test for the engine coolant, or remove the radiator cap and look for bubbles. nipper

A HUGE sign of a blown HG is no heat. i agreee with the failed thermostat. Also a HG wont normally blow a radiator hose. now its POSSIBLE that a failed thermostat can cause a HG to blow from over heating. nipper

Acording to all the subaru manuals, and the subaru dealerships (many posts include this subject) you re use the bolts. The bolts are steel, the block is aluminum. The block is weaker then the bolts, so they dont stretch. If it was a cast iron block i would say use new ones. If you decide to get them, get them from subaru (very pricey). Too much counterfit crap hardware out there to risk it. Many have reused the bolts with no problems. The only exception i would make would be if the engine was cooked, then i would replace them. nipper

Keep an eye on it, if you didnt use a torque wrench odds are it will come loose again nipper

im thinking plate and whatever spring there is nipper

Well sprayed the piss out of the handle, so got the hatch to latch to open and close properly make the alarm happy. Going to order new parts for the latch to fix this. Thanks all nipper

if its an auto tranny check the fluid. Take the car on a tight U turn and listen for anything odd (torque bind). If you buy it change the auto tranny fluid, if a manual change that oil too. nipper

sigh, NOW you tell us the mileage i have the same car mine does the same thing its piston slap. a rod knock does not go away. Never heard of the tensioner theory, if it was true it would happen when new. nipper

i may be facing this in the summer. i would do it not for the HG issue, but for better gas mileage (car is burning oil). Can you post us on gas mileage improvement nipper

www.tirerack.coms for reveiws. I have the BF Goodridge and like them alot. i would have gotten the goodyear (aquatread replacements) but at the time didnt have the bucks. nipper

These are really tough to find. you need to have a frreind and a day to kill on the open road. Have him try to narrow down the location of the sound. If he cant find the exact noise: Next take off the the trim panel ( as you would to remove the radio). Drive. If its still there remove the radio and drive. If the noise is still there you should now have the room to find it by touching things. Things to rule out Radio brackets. HVAC, duct work, after market electronics. Any metal brackets under the dash. If its a metal bracket it can be a broken sspot weild (gut feeling). Take a pair of pliers with you also and electrical tape. Sometimes just bending the bracket will stop the noise. You canstick the tape between metal surfaces.... lots of luck nipper

Easy, you dont change it. There is no innfo because it is a screen in the tranny and not a filter. It can be replaced, but its not worth the work and tranny pan leaks that will folow. Clunking, check all your drveline parts, mounts, driveshaft, cv joints and exhaust system mounts. Clunking can be a one way clutch inside the tranny going bad. if you havnet changed the fluid in 30k miles change it. Have you tried shifting the car manually. The automatic shifting is controlled by the computer from a varity of inputs. It could be one of these inputs is going bad. Another posability is that the govenor is sticking or failing. nipper

i think you just answered your own question. check ALL bushings and replace any that are worn, and always replace them in pairs. nipper

Its piston slap. Do a search here on piston slap and there is extensive information on it. Also you can google piston slap for more information (though the google version can be scary). Piston slap goes away as the car warms up. Tensioner noise will not. nipper

Its called piston slap. Do a search on it. Take it back to the dealer and listen to another sooby on the lot with the same engine and year and compare. If it sounds the same its normal (since i cant hear it on the net). If it sounds louder make a HUGE stink and they will replace two pistons. nipper

you have a leak. CHeck the PS fluid, that will cause an odd smell, and oil leaking is another good one. The ball you just have to replace it nipper

Its fare easier to sell that one and buy a turbo then do a conversion. Almost nothing out there as far as performance options for a non turbo.Odd i find soobys fairly good in acceleration once you get them moving. nipper

maybe www.cars101.com may help. nipper

depends upon how good you are with electrics. The heaters are in parallel for high and series for low. FIrst check the heaters with a meater to make sure they have good circuits. Hate to do all that work and find out the heaters are no good. nipper

Check the vin numbers. Subaru stoped using cables about 95. Something is weird with your car.... isnt it nice to be special? nipper

do the block and to the starter. Have the battery load tested and make sure its not internally shorted. If it is it can act like a giant short and kill an alternator. Where did you get the alternator from. nipper

Air filter study. This comes up often enough it should be a sticky http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41504&highlight=air+filter nipper

NONO NO your close. tranny fluid should be warm. Drive car on ramps. Drain fluid pan, refill tranny. Drive car around block. Put car back on ramps. repeat till all the fluid is replaced. NEVER use a running car to drain fluid via a coolant line. This is the lazy way to do it, but if you miss calculate or get distracted you just wiped out the front pump. Personally if i ever saw anyone use that method on my car they would meet the tire iron. That can be a 2500.00 mistake, or a 600.00 one with a used tranny. No where would you find any manual for any car condoning this, nipper

Manuals are fixed at 50/50 torque split. Autos range from 10/90 to 50/50 depending on what the puter decides. That is how the car can increase its torque without appling more throttle nipper

Sooby flywheels are already light weight and thin. You machine the flywheel it will most likely warp from heat. Its cheaper to buy a flywheel and replace it then to take the entire thing apart again when it chatters later. nipper