nipper

silly i meant here in the US. Volvos Mercedes BMW and other cars have headlight washers. ALso you can try to google it nipper

Is this an automatic or manual. I have gotten my 98 (180K) Legacy up to about 118. Gauges are inacurate at their minimum and maximum postions, so its possible. Arent these engines great OOps just saw its a manual. Did you try it in 4th gear? In %th Gear (and sometimes 4th) cars actually loose top end because they are fighting a large wind load. Downshifting usually helps and gives you a few more MPH in top end. Its the equivilant of down shifting to go up a hill. nipper

NEVER NEVER NEVER use sealnt on a headgasket. This has been covered on previous posts. The decks of the Cylinder and Cylinder head haave to be completley clean. The Cyl Head surface has to be Flat (which requires a machine shop check as most people dont have the micrometers to check this) with no runout. The Headgasket deforms a bit to make the seal. You have combustion pressures of 15-18,000 psi and coolant pressure of ~14psi. Any dirt and the two of them will find a path to leak. You also have engine oil under pressure. There is also a specific sequance to tightening the Cyl Heads bolt that you need to follow as the manual states. nipper

well the last generation of the Justy (in europe) was a swift i do beleive nipper

the plastic would be turn to ash at a few 1000 degrees and combustion pressures of 15-18000 PSI. Plastic is softer then metal so it cant even wedge the piston. i'm going to go with hydraulic lock too nipper

Jooints dont fail due to torque bind, the clutch pack will fail first. Sounds like the guy just wanted to drive the car unbtil it was undrivable. i have had cv joints self destruct before. Check to make sure all the tires have the same wear and inflation, and are the same size. IF you flushes the tranny completly (all 9? or more quarts not sure) it should go away rather quickly. If not he may have driven that into the ground too. nipper

i use it once a day now, to get the newspaper and get the hell out of the house (cabin feever). Everymorning a big blue cloud, after that it seems fine. nipper

Thanks, since it was two surgeries(first one failed) almost back to back (28 days), may take the better part of the year to heal. Then i need to find a new job . I know on V and inline engine you have plenty of room to remove the valve springs and rocker arms. The 2.5L is tight in there and i am envisioning them pulling the heads to do this, which means HG's and that 1500.00 price, which is 1/2 the cost of an engine nipper

Do you feel torque bind? nipper

ewwwwwwwwwwwwww i hate to be the bearer of bad news but thats a HG, nipper

i have the same problem and actually have the parts list. Send me an email at nipper@optonline.net and ill scan them and email them to you nipper

Actually ive been doing it for years. The trick is to have the windows of the car open. Lysol sets off my asthma, so if i can deal with it, anyone can nipper

i figure the cost of somone else doing it is at the 50% cost of a rebuild installed. am i wrong? nipper

where did you get them? nipper

May want to check first to see if it has a resistance reading at all. All automatics have been doing this since the early 90's just some are more noticible then others. i dont know under what circumstances fault codes trip the tranny light on the dash. As annoying as it is, have you tried disconnecting the battery overnight and letting both computers reset? its a long shot, but may be worth a try. nipper

AC you just unbolt the compressor and put it to the side on the fender. The PS is the same way i do belevie. hhehe funny how we think these things are trucks . SOunds like you need a d/r sooby , not that im one to put ideas in anyones head

if the land of nuclear powered fuzzy dice that will clean your car and leave a fresh pine scent doesnt have them, i dont know what else to suggest i think it may require an entirely differnt bumper skin. Why not go to scrap yards and look for other cars that came equiped with them? nipper

There isnt a hell of a lot of slack in the engine wiring harness and all the attached hoses. What you want to do is 90% of an engine removal. You might as well go all the way and remove the drivetrain, as it may be easier in the long run. If something was to slip you may do alot of damage. Also depending on the mileage of the car you may want to do the timing belt and etc while its out. Everything is so much more easier with the engine out, including spark plugs. There may have been somone here who has a done clutch by dropping the tranny, that may be a more desiarable route if you dont want to remove the engine. nipper

Maybe I'll have better luck with mechanics then back surgons:) After the car sitting for several months, it seems the valve stem seals have given up the fight. The car puts out a big blue cloud when first started in the morning. The rest of the day it seems fine. The engine has 182k on it (runs like a trooper), and I hate oil burning. The car will most likely be due for a heavy maint in the summer (seals water pump timing belt). I know from past exp that the timing belt and etc is 600 $ or so. I have no idea how much it is to replace the valve guide seals. i love the car, and the car is solid and well maintained. I am thinking of replacing the engine with a rebuilt 2.5 L from CCR (sorry guys but a rebuild gets around the HG issues). Now i live in Oceanside, Long Island, NY. I am hesitant from using a general engine rebuilder. Questions: 1-Has anyone had a sooby engine rebuilt by anyone besides Subaru or CCR (national chain prefered) 2-Can anyone recomend a shop in my area that has worked with CCR (if i go that route) 3-Do you think im nuts? (might be the pain meds) thanks nipper

thats because we dont like you heheheeh nipper

JC Whitney may have something. i dont think its as simple as getting a set of washers and drilling some holes. nipper

The tranny fluid temp is detetmined in the or around the valve body last i checked. It does not warm up as quickly as the engine does, but also does nto cool down as fast either. So far the two failure modes ive seen here on the list and others lists are internal seals or the front pump going bad. Seems to start around 1999 MY. i hope rebuild kits have better seals. nipper

Easy spray a can of lysol into the air intake under the hood. CYcle the hvac through all the positions and temps while spraying. There is more expensive stuff in auto parts stores, but lysol has fixing the problem for 20 years now nipper

Many of us here have flushed trannies with over 100,000 miles to cure torque bind with no issues. i did mine at 180,000 miles. The varnish theory used to be valid, but i know at least in soobies its not. If the damage is done its done. You are correct though that the delay between 0ark and anything is an indicator of the internal seals going bad. nipper

Cold rubber bushings. you can either live with it, replace the bushings, or pray them with silicone lubricant. nipper